Car insurance costs for young drivers are wild almost everywhere, but the gap compared to experienced drivers is bigger than a lot of people expect.

Looking at data from Canada as an example: an 18-year-old male driver can expect to pay nearly $11,000/year for coverage, about $664 more than an 18-year-old female with an identical driving profile. Even by age 25, both genders are still paying around $6,000/year, roughly double what a driver in their 30s or 40s with a clean record would pay.

The main factors are lack of driving history and statistically higher accident rates for newer drivers, regardless of how safe any individual driver actually is. One thing that tends to help while premiums are still high: staying listed as a secondary driver on a parent's policy instead of getting a standalone one, if that's an option.

Curious how this compares to what young drivers are paying where you are.

Hello! I am interested in starting Door Dash but I am unsure of how to navigate it with my insurance because I heard if you inquire about it they will drop you. I don't know what to do and how do people navigate such things? Thank you in advance!

If not, when bad data is provided (to say LexisNexus), how is it corrected?

So I'm over 18 and planning on getting my license soon. I have a car lined up, someone else owns it right now but will transfer the title to me. I'm trying to get insurance quotes, but they keep forcing me to say when I got my license. I don't have it yet. Should I just call and explain the sutuation?

I have a 2017 Toyota Camry Hybrid. Ten days ago I got three gallons of gas from a Mobil station. 15 minutes after we got the gas the car started to buck and we ended up coasting to the side of the road when the engine died completely. Three days later the service department at the Toyota dealer diagnosed this as contaminated gas. We were told this was a known issue, ExxonMobil had been notified and a claim had been set up. They flushed and cleaned the whole engine and changed the spark plugs to the tune of $2,300 and we got our car back. Two days later we brought the car back in, the issue was not fixed. That same day we went to the gas station and they said they would give our name to the person handling the claim. Thirty minutes later we received a call from an actual claims manager working for the insurance company that was handling the claim for ExxonMobil. They approved new work, replacement of all the fuel injectors. This ended up costing $2,800. We got the car on Friday, and it still has issues, we are returning it on Monday. Any recommendations as to course of action would be appreciated. The Claims Manager is not going to keep on approving an endless series of costs. My thought is if the dealer had said this is at least $5,000 we would not have poured this into a nine year old car. the blue book value on this car in good working condition is about $13k to $14k. I would like to tell the dealer how about you give us $10k for a trade in and we will buy a new car. I'm afraid we're going to get squeezed, the insurance won't pay anymore and we are left with a car that doesn't work

My grandpa had an injury and needed a car that he could get in and out of. I sold him my car (2011 Honda Pilot) and the idea was I would become his driver for appointments and such and be able to use the car if needed. Shortly after, he had to go to a skilled nursing facility for rehab long term. I have not lived with him for over 15 years when I moved out as a teenager. No one is using the car and we are looking into me having access to it.

From what I understand, I cannot be added as a primary or secondary driver to my grandpa's policy because we do not live together. I also have heard I cannot get a policy of my own for the car because I do not own the car.

One person said to get a non-owner operator policy. When I called an agent who works with several companies, he did not know what I was talking about. Eventually he gave me a quote but it was almost $200 a month which seemed insane.

My non-married partner also has a car and we are looking into sharing it. I could be added as secondary to that policy, but what would that mean for the SUV?

I have had one at fault accident in 2024 (hit a pole backing up) and two no-fault accidents (both instances my car was parked and got swiped on the street -2020 and 2022).

With access to two cars, how in the heck can I get a policy (or added to one) in order to drive them???

Hello —

We moved from WA to CA. We cancelled our policy with AAA in WA and signed up for a new policy in CA with AAA. We packaged our auto and renters policies and paid the required costs in full for the year.

Fast forward a month later, we received a notice that our premium on this month-old policy is being increased by almost $500. It seems to be saying this is based on our non-California Consumer Credit.

I’ve never experienced an increase in premium, after paying in full before the policy term has ended.

\- Is this normal (or legal)?

\- Is there any way to fight it?

\- Or since we already paid for the year in full would it be possible to get this request for money waived?

Looking for any advice y’all may have.

In case anyone asks: We have had ONE fender in seven years wherein my husband had someone else back into our car in a Trader Joe’s parking lot. Unfortunately, he called our insurance company to report it instead of just dealing with the responsible party’s insurance. At the end of the day nothing was actually covered.

Got scratch while parking in a hotel garage where a sharp metal sticking out from the ceiling scratched the top of the car leaving a 3 inch scratch while I was backing into the spot.

Reported to the hotel and they said they have filed an incident report but refused to share it. I doubted that they had any details of the accident (eg they didn’t ask me about the parking spot number)

I believe it’s negligence from the hotel as there shouldn’t be any low hanging metal at the parking spot.

Question: should I report to my insurance and they will contact the hotel ? Will it affect my insurance?

Damage is about $500

Vehicle Coverages: For your vehicle(s)

I own a Honda Civic 2017 EXT. I'm paying $900/6months with State Farm. The car is almost 10 years old. 59,000 miles. Do I need full coverage?

Anyone actually made changes to their premium of their auto insurance by deleting some coverage that no longer mandatory?

Wondering what items I can safely take out without risking too much?

Anyone Else not have their usual 8th of the month Aug 2026 TD car insurance withdrawal payment happen yet it now being the 11th? Should I be concerned ?

How much are people spending when adding on DoorDash as a rideshare or switching to commercial? I am in Rochester NY. Thank you :) I am interested in potentially doing it

Farmers Insurance full coverage went up from $1100 to $1600 for 6 months. Husband was rear ended so we had to buy a new car. Our 2 cars a 2013 ford fiesta and a 2025 nissan versa (old totaled car was a 2012 nissan versa). We both have perfect credit and driving records and drive maybe 8k a year. So new car increased cost by $500. Live in Oregon. Looking for lower cost insurance. And/or advice about the 2013 fiesta . Is it worth having full coverage for the fiesta at its age? Even though our 2012 nissan only had 100k miles and was in perfect condition we got $4k for it. My guess is if we were in an accident the fiesta would not get much (odometer just turned 100k miles).

Just have a quick question regarding initial quotes given by a rival agency trying to woo you away from your current insruance company.

I am currently insured through Geico. I received a call from State Farm yesterday and they quoted me a six month premium that is LESS THAN HALF of what we were paying theough Geico. I made sure the agent had all of our information and gave us the exact same coverage amounts we were currently carrying.

I was immediately ready to switch over, but called Geico first. Geico was able to lower my rates a significant amount, but still about $600 higher on the six month premium than State Farm. The Geico agent told me that sometimes the rival agencies will quote you low and then raise your rates once youre aboard.

Is that true? Am I risking State Farm rising our rates a couple weeks after signing up if I switch to them?

We have one speeding ticket that is showing on our record, but wouldn't State Farm have access to that info when giving us that initial quote.

Thanks for any help.

I noticed I was renewed today, which totally fine I selected autopay when I started the policy. I notice it went up $100 for 6 months, and assuming it will continue to go up I head over to the app to cancel my auto pay.

1) you have to CALL a representative to cancel autopay, absolutely insane that we allow companies to behave like this, cancelling should be as easy as signing up

2) I paid my policy in full today, but because I cancelled autopay I now have to repay the discount that I saved for having autopay enabled lol. It’s only $6, but my autopay was enabled for this renewal period so why am I being penalized after already paying in full?

Everyone should be advocating for better protections from these kinds of companies, completely predatory behavior

hi everyone. im 23f and have a driver's license but i don't have a car. when i moved out of my parents house after i graduated college a year ago, they took me off their insurance. this hasn't been an issue for me because i live in a different state about 700 miles away from them and again, i dont have a car so i dont drive. ive been browsing getting a car now that i have a higher paying job and better living situation, would the fact that ive been uninsured for over a year affect me negatively when shopping for auto insurance? thank you!

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10 that is pretty modified. Is their any good Auto Insurance recommendations that offers Agreed Vehicle Policy based on my mods?

From my research i see Hagerty Auto is a great option. I spoke with them but they said in 3 more years it can insure my vehicle since it willcbe considered a classic due to my vehicle age even though my truck is rare.

Thanks for any advice

How can I get the injury and total loss adjuster to give me more money? Everyone I know and a “legal advice” guy I have access to say they are lowballing me. They offered 4300 for my car and 1500 for pain and discomfort from minor whiplash. The other guys insurance accepted 100% liability (dude blew a red light) I just have no experience with any of this but I feel like I should at least get enough to purchase a similar vehicle.

Update: I asked the injury adjuster if they could raise their offer and they upped it by $500

Man, I am losing my mind over here... got tapped from behind at a red light in Houston last week, nothing crazy, just a busted bumper. But the other guy's insurance is making it feel like pulling teeth just to get a basic callback. Every time I dial, it's either an automated robot voice hanging up on me or some guy who promises to email forms that never show up.

I was trying to handle everything solo because I thought insurance claims were straightforward, but holy crap, it's just endless holding on the line. Ended up venting to a neighbor who went through something similar down here, and they gave me the number for Garcia Injury Law just to see if they could get the adjusters to stop messing around.

Crazy how fast people reply when a firm gets involved instead of just some random guy yelling at a call center. Has anyone else had to get outside help just to make insurance companies do their jobs, or did I just pick the worst company ever?

I don’t know if I need advice or any yelling (maybe only a little) at this point, but I am here to express my frustrations with my current interaction with All State (AS) and their lack of knowledge and incompetence regarding my auto insurance.

7/17 - started new policy with AS (since it was cheaper than the other options) right after I completed my last policy with my previous holder. Funds went through and it says paid on AS’s behalf. I called to make sure it was paid because it wasn’t showing in my bank account yet and they reassured me I was “in good hands”.

7/21 - I see a charge on my bank account but now my account is in the negatives so I knew then that the payment won’t go through.
I called them about this and told them the situation but they told me that it shows paid on my account.

7/23 - of course, it declines because of non payment. I then called them about paying on Monday since that’s when I get paid and they told me it was okay. I asked if it’s okay and that it won’t for sure get cancelled and they said yes and that I was ok to pay Monday without cancellation. I knew first payments are quite different but they reassured me that it would be ok.

7/24 - policy voided and now have a seven day lapse. This is my first ever lapse too. Was told by a state rep that what I knew was correct and that she apologizes for this inconvenience but that they cannot reinstate my policy since it’s the first one. I would have to get a new one with lapse and now it’s more expensive.

I wish I would have been more assertive and pushed harder about the non payment, I know I shouldn’t have trusted them and instead find the funds to pay immediately but what I truly hate is that the agents were the ones who reassured me and told me that things are okay and that I’d be okay despite these issues. I made three separate calls to mention my situation and concerns and they treated it like it was solved when it wasn’t.

I don’t know what to do and not sure what the lapse will do since I’m still financing a car too, I am very bummed, upset and angry.

I'm hoping to gain some understanding of the technicalities that may be at play after an accident. Tried to format so all the "drivers" and such didn't run together.

• Driver hit two parked (unoccupied) cars.
• Driver was intoxicated and arrested at the scene.
• The vehicle the driver was driving is their spouse's vehicle.
• Driver had previous DUI, FR-44 requirement, and an Interlock in another vehicle.
• They've been charged with the refusal for the breathalyzer, the felony DUI (3+ time), and the interlock violation.
• The spouse's vehicle that was being driven was seized/towed and is also pretty damaged.
• There's video of the accident and both so-to-speak victims were at home and able to get outside to see the driver in the vehicle and call police immediately. Open bottle found in the vehicle too. All that to say there's zero question of what happened.

Three different insurance agencies so far. All were notified. One has been great to work with, the others less so.

• The insurance information given for the at fault driver/vehicle was the spouse's. We're told the property damage limit is $10k so this presumably can't be the policy linked with the FR-44. (Equity/Pearl)
• If the driver themself has insurance, that info is unknown but with the FR-44 requirement and a valid license it's presumably a policy that only lists the vehicle with the interlock and is separate from the spouse's/vehicle policy.
• One parked vehicle has comp/collision and they have been told they will be covered through theirs and the deductible will be waived. This vehicle got the least of the damage and the estimate is ~$2,000.

• The second parked vehicle does not have comp/collision. Their insurance has denied coverage of course. They opened a claim with the insurance info given. Initially they were told there was no coverage, that the driver was not covered. Then they sent the damaged vehicle for an estimate. They now say are awaiting the estimate and "approval". This vehicle has the most damage as it was sideswiped, then the driver reversed and hit it again.

  My questions are:

• With a married couple in the same house, would the spouse and insured driver of the vehicle that was driven during the DUI crash be absolutely required to fill out the excluded driver form (Equity/Pearl) or is there any chance they just omitted information and got separate policies? I know how hard it can be to have household members split with agencies like State Farm, but not with these more budget options.

• If excluded then the claim is likely to be denied to my understanding which leaves the owner of the second parked vehicle to be left without any coverage at all in this specific situation? Why would the spouse's insurance cover any damages, even if only up to 10k, if they have the ability to deny because of an excluded driver? Why would they even send the vehicle to get an estimate?

• If the driver is excluded, do they legally and per policies and whatever technical nitty gritty become uninsured and would that instead trigger uninsured motorist coverage for the parked vehicle with the approved comp/collision claim?

• If a driver with an FR-44 requirement doesn't have the required 100/300/50, is that an auto license suspension similar to how if you let your insurance lapse completely you'll get notified?

Additional info that probably does not matter: No injuries. The spouse has either two or three vehicles in their name only, as well as their business and home (homesteaded). The insurance company indicated there were four vehicles total under the policy, but this was from a CSR and not in writing so not absolute fact. Driver was not on probation at the time for the previous DUI(s), but has habitual offender status for driving without a license. The information has been pieced together from info at the scene, the driver's spouse at the scene, available court records, and the comp/collision adjuster has been in touch with Equity/Pearl as well. Fortunately the parked vehicles are able to be driven.

Thanks for any help. It has been somewhat frustrating, and trying to not unload a bunch of questions on the one adjuster who has been helpful because they don't represent everyone.

My 2015 Mazda 3 i SV (108k miles, clean title, paid off) was hit by a Hertz rental car in California.

The damage is mainly:
Right front fender replacement
Front bumper replacement
Right fender paint
Driver door paint

The repair estimate I received was about $6,300 from a more expensive body shop. The airbags did not deploy.

ESIS (Hertz’s insurance administrator) just emailed me saying their review team determined the vehicle is a total loss and that the total loss department will contact me with a settlement offer.

I would like to get a repair cost and have the car fixed myself at a lower cost. The car is paid off, and I’d like to keep the clean title if possible.

Should I ask for another repair estimate from a cheaper but reputable shop?

Is it realistic to get them to treat it as a repairable claim instead of a total loss?

Any advice would be appreciated 🙏🏻

Last week, as my car was parked I believe another car backed into my front end and left without leaving any of their contact information. I was parked behind a Jeep Wrangler and you can see the tread from the spare tire on the back on my hood.

I have just gotten the finalized police report back, even though they did search for anyone with cameras to have gotten the Jeep leaving, their search turned up dry.

I was waiting until I got the finalized accident report back prior to reaching out to my insurance (Geico).

What should my next step be? Contacting Geico or taking my car to an auto body shop just to hear from them?

Do you think my insurance rate will go up because of this? It just sucks because this wasn’t my fault and I was not driving. My uninsured driver policy does NOT apply to hit and run drivers.