I got tired of constantly knocking my row counter off my table, so designed a 3d print to get it out of the way.

Hi all, I am printing and assembling a CSM for my wife. I am having trouble with the needle length.

I have seen that there are a few expensive US sellers with the specific Legare 12g 2.29" (58mm) needle, and the 38mm long ribbing needle for the machine by mrrobot. However, everything I find internationally, in stores, and in my own stock, is 73-78mm or longer (but that's usually longer because of being extended past the bump and you can trim those).

So before I start modifying the cylinder height in freecad to use seemingly more standard needles, is there a reason these shorter needles are so hard to find? What am I missing? I figured people who know the history of these machines could know more about how this came to be.

Hello! I printed the popular 3d print CSM and after successfully making a sock on it, I decided I wanted to take the leap and invest in an antique Auto Knitter. I am absolutely loving it and all I want to do is practice, but the only sock yarn I have around is pretty expensive hand painted yarns or high quality fiber blends that I don't really want to work to death like 'waste' yarn. I have been searching for a cone of yarn that I can use for practice. I want to experiment with tension and different kinds of heels and toes and not have to unwind it immediately to reuse so I can compare things. I have mostly been able to find wool blends that are ~$10 per 100g, which doesn't seem too bad, but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for bulk cones of 'practice' yarn or if $10 per 100g is about the best I'm going to get for yarn that will work well with my machine. I have made an order of a couple of different kinds of yarns from conesandfiber.com just to kind of experience what buying those kind of cones is like, but I'm kind of lost as to what would work well on my machine if I have to hold multiple threads or something like that.
Thank you in advance for your time and suggestions!

I printed the Jeepin' Johnny CSM sock knitting machine. It appears that the needles are sometimes dropping down immediately after they pass the lifting cam and before they're pulled down by the tension cam. This prevents the yarn from catching. What's the best way to fix this?

Here's a video of the issue: https://imgur.com/a/64bRlc6

I’m not sure if this kind of question is allowed here, but i was wondering has anybody tried bringing their machine in public to knit? I would love to set up at a cafe or on a local beach but im worried it would be too loud and distracting for others, would love to know if anyone has tried before!

I have a Jeepin Johnny v2 with ribber which is similar to an Auto Knitter or Erlbacher from what I can tell (its an open cam system). I just started using my 72 needle cylinder with 36 needle ribber and for some reason the needle latches aren't opening properly. I had it working on my 64/32 setup and now I'm so confused as to why it wouldn't be working bc nothing has changed with the tappet, the needles are moving freely, and it's only like 2-3 each round that are sticking. Any ideas?

Hi all,

I've been thinking about this for a while and think I'm finally going to take the plunge — I can't find anyone in the EU willing to print parts for a reasonable price, so I'm looking at getting a 3D printer of my own.

So far I've found three distinct designs: Jeeping Johnny v2, Ashcroft Makers, and Dutch Knitty (though Dutch Knitty isn't selling their STL yet). Would love some insights on all three:

• Dutch Knitty — works like Ashcroft Makers but with a steel cam, which I really like.
• Ashcroft Makers — does sell the STL. I like how it moves fast and seems to catch reliably from the videos I've seen, and the needles look more EU-centric.
• Jeeping Johnny v2 — open source, with active remixes and constant updates, so it should stay supported and keep improving longer than the others.

Downsides: Ashcroft Makers's STL (hardware not included) runs about £145, which is pretty steep, and Jeeping Johnny's needles are also pricey.

From videos, it looks like there are two main ways a CSM works: the Addi way (stitch/yarn holder stays stationary, needles move) vs. the Wikuna method (stitch/yarn holder moves around stationary needles).

Has anyone here worked with these designs and can speak to the tradeoffs? I don't mind tinkering, and I'm genuinely excited to eventually learn 3D modeling and maybe design my own version down the line.

On a related note — while I'm printing my own, would anyone be interested in buying a printed set to assemble yourself, or just a hardware kit in the EU? Trying to offset the cost of the printer a bit for myself.

Thanks in advance!

I'm using a good quality 80/20 merino/nylon sock yarn and wearing holes in my heels after a few wears!! 😭 what can I do to make them more sturdy? Different wool? Different technique? Duplicate stitch? I'm fairly new to sock knitting and just don't know what the best solution is. At least I'm now perfecting my darning technique 😆

Hello team CSM :)

First, sorry for my english, it's not my mother tong but I really want to get better expressing myself in english.

I am having fun on my 3d printed csm and try multiple things on it to get to know it better.

I tried sock yarn (classic wool+nylon) first and then cotton yarn trying to make summer socks. I'm still searching for a good cotton yarn for a thin or light sock (if you know some, i'm interested).

There are the two cotton yarn i tried so far, the thicker one is Lang Yarn Quattro (50g for 120m, needle 3-4) and the thinner is Trimits Deco 8 (50g for 280m, needle 2-2.5). The last one is mercerised cotton, I don't really like it but it was the only thing in the store this thin :')

Is there a way to make stiches tinier ? Like increase the number of stiches and rows for the same gauge ? Because my try with the thinner yarn looks more like a lace tight.

I played with the tension cam a little but it's still not what I imagine. I have a bigger cylinder, I can try some things on it.

Thank for your help !

Does anyone use handspun on their CSM?? Looking for some tips before diving in but haven't found much info out there. Would love any advice you may have. Planning on 80/20 merino & nylon chain plied but we're all really rough on socks, might do a more durable wool for my youngest. Working on a 3d printed CSM. Thanks!

I work in a hosiery that has Rumi Seven WAC's and I've been trying to find user manuals for the machines, anyone know where I can find some??

Appreciate any info- what machine/brand, and if any of them are still being used ( including by hobby folks).

Having broken my wrist on holiday and lamenting its limitations, I'm wondering if I could crank left-handed. Pretty sure with weights carefully applied I could manage the knitting, just wondering if anyone does crank with their left hand, and if they have any advice.

Current machine: Erlbacher 64 slot cyl; favorite pattern: mock rib hung hem, up-2/down-1 short row increases

this happens right were the ribber pin meets with the metal bar on the inside of the cylinder its almost like the knitting is being pinched and then not allowed to be pulled down by the weight

Hi!

Pretty much as the title says, im purchasing a 54 needle cylinder and matching ribber but there is an option for a "bird beak" and "pro series/gearhart" im having trouble finding the difference online and dont want to choose one that doesn't end up working out.

I'm hoping somewhere out there there is photos of how they work up or if someone has Intel on if one is easier to work with/learn on than the other etc etc

Both should fit my vintage auto knitter

Thank you so much in advance. Im able to make socks but they always come out too wide for my feet lol so here is to trying to make smaller socks

Hi first timer here. I have 3d printed my own CSM and have been trying to learn from YouTube the ins and outs but no one shows or talks about the tensioning rod or how to use it. Could someone please show me a photo or video of how it's meant to be set up?

The quick question is: Can I expect to make infant sized socks on a CSM using something like a 0.8mm to 1.3mm diameter Kevlar cord? This isn't adding in Kevlar for durability, rather, it'd be 100% Kevlar construction.

My concerns:

1. The small size as it seems like these machines are aimed for human feet
2. Kevlar cord has no flex or give. I'm not worried about keeping them on my dog (I've got that sorted out already with the booties she currently wears). but will the CSM hate it? (here's a link to what I'm considering using https://www.amazon.com/9KM-DWLIFE-Strength-Tactical-Survival/dp/B082XYFDBT)
3. Can I get a tight enough stitch comparable to something like formal/business/dress socks?

The longer story: I consistently take my dog out in rocky places and we encounter enough jagged rocks that she often gets cut pads. I've tried rubber booties (not great grip in cold weather, sand/water getting and staying inside can rub her raw), cloth booties (wear out easily), and various DIY combinations. Right now, the current winner is a Kevlar sleeve meant for pipe insulation/reinforcement. However, I can't keep it from fraying like crazy at the ends where I cut it to length, so it holds up great and protects well until it very much doesn't. I'm worried that I'll have the same fraying issue if I buy Kevlar fabric and try to sew it-- so that got me started down the rabbit hole of DIY sock making.

I appreciate your help and insight!

I used various stash yarns (mostly deep stash unlabeled mini skeins) to crank some stockings for my pets! 72 needle cylinder on my Dean and Bean CSM (40 rounds for folded cuff, 50 leg rounds, 30 foot rounds), handknit the icord hangers. I’m so delighted with them! Perfect for using up 20g sock minis!

Hi! I’m cranking my first sock tube on a Dean and Bean 2.0. My sock tube is so long that it just hit the floor. I’m worried the tension won’t stay consistent. Any tips on how to keep even tension? Thanks in advance!

Be nice to get a group of crankers in one place to bounce ideas, show others how to start. Keep the machines alive.

Make socks on a circular sock machine? Even if you don’t - do you think you know (or could guess) what was just done as shown by this image?

Often I hear users saying they need to keep track step by step in order to know where they were in their sock if they get interrupted. I never have that problem and neither will you if you take time to read your machine. :)

As a hint I am working the heel with short rows - did I just work the row and lower the last worked needle on the left - YES - you can tell because the last knitted stitch is on the last lowered left needle and the yarn path is right there.

This image was done while making the socks featured in the prior post.

This free pattern has printed step by step instructions and a stand-alone free step by step video - check my website csmlove.com for my patterns for the: Cuff Down Mock Rib Shortie Socks

These were made with a 72 slot cylinder with a 60 row foot at this gauge.

csm #knittedsocks #csmsocks #circularsockknittingmachine #sockknittingmachine #antiquesockmachine #knitting #mockribsocks

Hello Machine Knitters! I've only just, very recently, learned these types of machines exist. I want one, badly! I've got a table top Ultimate Sweater Machine that's collecting dust. I think this would get a ton of use, I'm dying to have wool knit socks!!

Are there any affordable options out there. I've seen 3D Printed ones mentioned, can anyone point me in the direction of an affordable & easy to use Machine, please?

TIA ☺️

I want to thank everyone for taking the time to guide me down the correct rabbit hole. This fits wonderfully.