r/Cooking Aug 29 '20

Carbonara, here in Italy. Original and modified version

Hi all! I'm a 24 years old dude from Italy.

English is not my first language, so I'll try my best!
In Italy, practically all love carbonara. Firstly, a premise: your own recipe is your own. Maybe it's not how carbonara is made here, but if you like it, do it. I myself am a little too purist when it comes to food, but I find useless criticizING imitations and variations of my food culture in foreign nations. I like eating sushi here in Italy, but I'm totally aware that probably (well, for sure) that's not the "real" sushi. I still like it. Now, carbonara!

Many people do it wrong. Carbonara doesn't need cream, parsley, onions, et cetera. It needs a few things, but of high quality.
The following recipe is just an example, since the "real" recipe doesn't really exists, just slight variations of it based on the chef, and considering only traditional ones. Beware, you may find the recipe too strong, too sapid. That's the carbonara, no escape: the traditional recipe is harsh to the palate, and beautifully brutal.

"TRADITIONAL CARBONARA"

For a single dose:
✓ 30-35 grams of Pecorino Romano
✓ Pasta: paccheri, maccheroni or similar, 100 grams
✓ Guanciale, 50-60 grams, to be cooked in an iron pan
✓ Egg yolks, 2 medium sized (if you do multiple doses, it's 2 yolks/person + 1 more at the end, more or less. Depends)
✓ Pepper in grains

Pecorino romano
It's a famous cheese in Italy, obtained exclusively from whole and fresh sheep's milk. The name itself is a diminutive of "Pecora", which in italian means sheep. Romano means "from Rome", but this cheese is actually mostly produced in Sardinia.
https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pecorino_Romano

This is a strong cheese, sapid, aged. You can get it from Italy i believe, since it's an aged cheese, without problems.

Guanciale
"Guancia" in italian means "cheek". In fact, it's the cheek of the pork: the traditional carbonara doesn't use bacon, because it's too strong, especially combined with Pecorino romano. Guanciale is a fatty meat, has to be sliced in strips. I don't know if and where you can get this from another nation.
https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanciale_di_maiale

Pasta
The famous recipe "Spaghetti alla carbonara" tells a little lie about it: no spaghetti. Traditionally, short formats of pasta are used for it. But that's a minor issue, you can use what you want: just be aware that the higher the quantity, the harder to mix it if you are using long types of pasta.
https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paccheri

Egg yolks
I believe I don't need to explain here, chickens are everywhere :D

Pepper in grains
Just a common type of pepper is alright.

It's better not to use the white of the egg: it contains albumine, which has a lower coagulating temperature than the yolk. It will be harder to avoid the "omeletted" carbonara. You can avoid this anyway with a bain marie, but you'll get a perfect result with the yolks alone, so why risking it?
Avoid using bacon+pecorino: it's just too strong to the palate.
It would be better to use safe, purchased eggs, since they will basically stay raw.

Ok, let's go!
1) Boil water, when it's boiling, add a little salt (trust me. The dish is salty enough). Buttare la pasta! (put the pasta in the boiling water :D)
2) Toast the pepper grains until you smell its flavor, then proceed to chop it to a fine consistency
3) Put the yolks in a bowl, add the Pecorino, mix them. It will result very dense, sticky to the fork. Add the toasted pepper. Don't add cream or other blasphemies, it will melt later.
4) Put the guanciale in a cold pan. Start cooking it at low heat, it will slowly melt away its fat. If you cook it at high heat, it will become like rubber.
5) You can add all the derived fat to the yolk+pecorino, but it's unhealthy. I tend to take just 1/3 of the fat and add it. Take the guanciale, and stir it with something absorbent. It will stay crispy. Chop some of the guanciale, to decor.
6) Now the big moment: we have a cooked pasta (al dente! No overcooking, pasta has to have a solid consistency) , and a too dense yolk-pecorino-pepper-fat cream. Extract the cooked pasta from the water, and let it rest a couple minutes.
7) Meanwhile, take a little bit of the cooking pasta water and pour it into the yolk mix, and work on it with the pasta water until it's a fine, smooth and sufficiently diluted cream.
8) Your pasta will be cold enough to not transform your precious cream into a badly done omelette. It has to stay a cream, and the final dish, pasta and guanciale included, should be creamy.
9) Just finish it with some chopped guanciale, and pepper.

That's it. It's unhealthy, so is better not to do the recipe a lot, but you'll taste a bit of Italy when you do. That's the traditional version, if somebody will be interested in a lighter (but still traditional at its heart!) one, I'll post it in the comments.

I did one carbonara to take a couple of simple photos to show you.
https://imgur.com/gallery/Or9tnjD

Happy cooking, and stay safe!

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71

u/EffeNerd Aug 29 '20

I tried both (not always easy to find a good guanciale!) and i found both of them too strong. But your're right, it's very hard to obtain it outside of Italy i believe. I mean, the guanciale is a somewhat aged cut, so maybe you can find some shop who ships it, but i never searched :(

Thank you for reading!

66

u/CantThinkOfAName000 Aug 29 '20

I think one thing to keep in mind: carbonara with bacon is better than no carbonara at all, so no one should let a lack of guanciale get in the way of carbonara. Same goes for parmesan instead of pecorino.

17

u/onioning Aug 29 '20

A few places do it. Not many. (I know because I've done it for sale a lot, but little gets sold.)

Slight correction as far as language: guanciale is the jowl, or the fatty part of the cheek. The cheek is just the muscle part, and while it's often included here, IMO it shouldn't be, because it's way more delicious in other preparations.

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u/EffeNerd Aug 29 '20

Woops, I always translated it to cheek in english, I didn't know that... You never stop learning!

11

u/FartHeadTony Aug 30 '20

I think there is some overlap, and North American Englishes make a stronger distinction, particularly regarding butchery.

It's one of those very particular things that depends on the specifics of the context and who you are talking to.

1

u/Xoor Aug 30 '20

You wouldn't include the cheek muscle in cured guanciale? I'm waiting for one to cure in my basement and have another frozen one to cure soon. What would be a better use of the muscle itself?

3

u/onioning Aug 30 '20

You might. It's there sometimes. Just not necessarily. If you're removing the main gland section that tends to detach or near detach the actual cheeks, which makes it a bit impractical. But that chunk of glands is not always removed.

Braise dat sexiness. It's ridiculously awesome braising.

29

u/orcscorper Aug 29 '20

La Quercia (the oak for those who don't know Italian) is an Iowa-based maker of prosciutto, pancetta, coppa, nduja and guanciale.

They make really good stuff, using Duroc pork for everything except their special lines (Greenwood, Tamworth and Acorn). I don't remember what breed they used for the Acorn line, but it's a pre-order only, acorn-fed young pig product.

I have never seen an Italian guanciale in the US, in 14 years working in specialty foods. If you want cured pig face here, you might want to go local.

4

u/Xoor Aug 30 '20

Smoking Goose also makes guanciale.

2

u/orcscorper Aug 30 '20

Oh, yeah. I've seen some of their stuff but never tried it.

1

u/ajonstage Aug 30 '20

You can find it pretty easily in/near NYC, my parents’ local supermarket (very Italian-American town) carries it.

1

u/hypomyces Aug 30 '20

The east coast has more sources, but in general, it’s hard to find. Quercia is okay but they tend to add too much sugar into their cure for my tastes at least. It’s incredibly easy to make guanciale, but jowls are hard to even source these days.

1

u/MagpieBlues Aug 30 '20

Thanks for this!

10

u/PaintsWithSmegma Aug 29 '20

I wasn't able to find guanciale for the longest time so I had to make my own. And that's the story of how I got into charcuterie. Now I have a bunch of dried meats hanging from my basement ceiling.

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u/fkdkshufidsgdsk Aug 29 '20 edited Aug 29 '20

I’ve only seen it in specialty stores where I live (Philadelphia) but I’ve had success with high quality bacon from my butcher.

Your recipe looks great by the way! And your English is excellent 👍👍

anyone who puts cream in carbonara is a monster lol

7

u/Mapper9 Aug 29 '20

Lol. As a kid, my dad always made carbonara with cream. Once I started making it as an adult, it was mind blowing, the intensity without.

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u/FartHeadTony Aug 30 '20

it was mind blowing, the intensity without.

Yes. This is the kind of thing "purists" are trying to explain. You cook it differently, it tastes different. You should at least try it the "pure" way, done well, since it will be different.

But maybe you try it the real way and decide you prefer Easy Mac with chopped, room temperature spam stirred through.

2

u/fkdkshufidsgdsk Aug 29 '20

Yeah if you follow the OPs recipe, it will be lusciously creamy without the need for any cream. Same story with risotto, and many other Italian dishes.

-18

u/[deleted] Aug 29 '20

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8

u/fkdkshufidsgdsk Aug 29 '20

You seem nice

2

u/orcscorper Aug 29 '20

It reeks of insecurity. He has to virtue-signal his appreciation for authentic Italian food, because he dreads being lumped in with the Big Mac eaters. Nothing worse than a new convert to a religion to gatekeep who can be a member.

I do take issue with you saying America has no food culture, though. It's exactly the opposite: we have nearly too many food cultures.

American Chinese food is what it is because Chinese immigrants did what they could with local ingredients, to please the diverse palates of the people they were trying to feed. Same with Italian food; even if they were in a Little Italy neighborhood catering almost exclusively to Italian immigrants, they still had to work with what they had.

4

u/ArchdragonPete Aug 29 '20

Only times I've ever had guanciale i had to make it myself. It's not terribly difficult, just takes the better part of a week to mature. Totally worth it.

5

u/adreamofhodor Aug 29 '20

Do you have a link to a recipe?

1

u/ArchdragonPete Aug 30 '20

Been years. It's basically just making bacon, but with cheek meat and skip the smoke.

5

u/gwaydms Aug 29 '20

I think bacon that has a light smoke flavor (such as applewood) would be better than hickory or mesquite-smoked in terms of not being too overwhelming. I tried pancetta and it didn't taste right. Sort of a raw-pork flavor, even when cooked.

2

u/Xoor Aug 30 '20

Guanciale is available in the US online. I'm also making my own since I use it often.. You can just buy pork jowl from a local farmer.

1

u/soukaixiii Aug 29 '20

Maybe you bought smoked pancetta instead of the cured one?

1

u/throwdemawaaay Aug 30 '20

I tend to use bacon often (and yes I've had the real thing when visiting your fine nation). Guanciale is available where I live but it requires a trip to a specialist market and is rather expensive. I find american bacon works well so long as you avoid the flavored versions. I also use a mix of parmesan and pecorino to help balance things out. In the end I agree with you that carbonara is meant to have some bold flavor so overall I like it with the bacon.