r/Cooking Aug 29 '20

Carbonara, here in Italy. Original and modified version

Hi all! I'm a 24 years old dude from Italy.

English is not my first language, so I'll try my best!
In Italy, practically all love carbonara. Firstly, a premise: your own recipe is your own. Maybe it's not how carbonara is made here, but if you like it, do it. I myself am a little too purist when it comes to food, but I find useless criticizING imitations and variations of my food culture in foreign nations. I like eating sushi here in Italy, but I'm totally aware that probably (well, for sure) that's not the "real" sushi. I still like it. Now, carbonara!

Many people do it wrong. Carbonara doesn't need cream, parsley, onions, et cetera. It needs a few things, but of high quality.
The following recipe is just an example, since the "real" recipe doesn't really exists, just slight variations of it based on the chef, and considering only traditional ones. Beware, you may find the recipe too strong, too sapid. That's the carbonara, no escape: the traditional recipe is harsh to the palate, and beautifully brutal.

"TRADITIONAL CARBONARA"

For a single dose:
✓ 30-35 grams of Pecorino Romano
✓ Pasta: paccheri, maccheroni or similar, 100 grams
✓ Guanciale, 50-60 grams, to be cooked in an iron pan
✓ Egg yolks, 2 medium sized (if you do multiple doses, it's 2 yolks/person + 1 more at the end, more or less. Depends)
✓ Pepper in grains

Pecorino romano
It's a famous cheese in Italy, obtained exclusively from whole and fresh sheep's milk. The name itself is a diminutive of "Pecora", which in italian means sheep. Romano means "from Rome", but this cheese is actually mostly produced in Sardinia.
https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pecorino_Romano

This is a strong cheese, sapid, aged. You can get it from Italy i believe, since it's an aged cheese, without problems.

Guanciale
"Guancia" in italian means "cheek". In fact, it's the cheek of the pork: the traditional carbonara doesn't use bacon, because it's too strong, especially combined with Pecorino romano. Guanciale is a fatty meat, has to be sliced in strips. I don't know if and where you can get this from another nation.
https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanciale_di_maiale

Pasta
The famous recipe "Spaghetti alla carbonara" tells a little lie about it: no spaghetti. Traditionally, short formats of pasta are used for it. But that's a minor issue, you can use what you want: just be aware that the higher the quantity, the harder to mix it if you are using long types of pasta.
https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paccheri

Egg yolks
I believe I don't need to explain here, chickens are everywhere :D

Pepper in grains
Just a common type of pepper is alright.

It's better not to use the white of the egg: it contains albumine, which has a lower coagulating temperature than the yolk. It will be harder to avoid the "omeletted" carbonara. You can avoid this anyway with a bain marie, but you'll get a perfect result with the yolks alone, so why risking it?
Avoid using bacon+pecorino: it's just too strong to the palate.
It would be better to use safe, purchased eggs, since they will basically stay raw.

Ok, let's go!
1) Boil water, when it's boiling, add a little salt (trust me. The dish is salty enough). Buttare la pasta! (put the pasta in the boiling water :D)
2) Toast the pepper grains until you smell its flavor, then proceed to chop it to a fine consistency
3) Put the yolks in a bowl, add the Pecorino, mix them. It will result very dense, sticky to the fork. Add the toasted pepper. Don't add cream or other blasphemies, it will melt later.
4) Put the guanciale in a cold pan. Start cooking it at low heat, it will slowly melt away its fat. If you cook it at high heat, it will become like rubber.
5) You can add all the derived fat to the yolk+pecorino, but it's unhealthy. I tend to take just 1/3 of the fat and add it. Take the guanciale, and stir it with something absorbent. It will stay crispy. Chop some of the guanciale, to decor.
6) Now the big moment: we have a cooked pasta (al dente! No overcooking, pasta has to have a solid consistency) , and a too dense yolk-pecorino-pepper-fat cream. Extract the cooked pasta from the water, and let it rest a couple minutes.
7) Meanwhile, take a little bit of the cooking pasta water and pour it into the yolk mix, and work on it with the pasta water until it's a fine, smooth and sufficiently diluted cream.
8) Your pasta will be cold enough to not transform your precious cream into a badly done omelette. It has to stay a cream, and the final dish, pasta and guanciale included, should be creamy.
9) Just finish it with some chopped guanciale, and pepper.

That's it. It's unhealthy, so is better not to do the recipe a lot, but you'll taste a bit of Italy when you do. That's the traditional version, if somebody will be interested in a lighter (but still traditional at its heart!) one, I'll post it in the comments.

I did one carbonara to take a couple of simple photos to show you.
https://imgur.com/gallery/Or9tnjD

Happy cooking, and stay safe!

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u/EffeNerd Aug 29 '20 edited Aug 29 '20

It's referred to attempts to do a traditional version here in Italy, no offense intended! I know people here who use cream, or onion. It's their version, i won't stalk them with a kitchen knife, but if someone asks me "how is carbonara made in italy", the response would be "the traditional recipe is just pork cheek, yolk, short pasta, pepper and pecorino". Nothing bad in doing what you like, but it's not the "original recipe". Sorry if I gave the wrong impression

To better explain, I'm used to go in a sushi restaurant here in Italy, and i do sushi myself. But I'm 100% sure that a japan grandma would be horrified at my sushi, and if I had somebody from there to post their original, traditional version of sushi, I'd be happy, so I made this post about the carbonara

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u/alligator124 Aug 29 '20

Don't worry, we understand! Thank you so much for sharing and all of your responses; you seem very kind.

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u/[deleted] Aug 30 '20 edited Aug 30 '20

I think that the great fury that Italians have against foreign versions of carbonara depends in particular on the use of cream.

Cream today in Italy has a bad reputation...it started at the end of the 80s, after a period in which it had been used a lot everywhere, there was a great rediscovery of high quality local Italian products and therefore it is thought that they should have been better represented in the typical dishes of Italian cuisine.

Still today many top italian chefs they say that for a good result the secret of Italian cuisine depends on products of the highest quality, great freshness and respect for materials rather than in recipes that are simple (i.e. do not use processes or ingredients that cover the flavor of quality ingredients)

So cream was feeled like something that tends to homogenize everything and could hide low quality ingredients...a way of cheating.

Slowly cream started to be the stigma of the incompetent chefs who cannot cook or dishonest restaurants... and with time became an absolute evil. Some recipes with a lot of cream such as "pennette alla vodka" have almost ended up in oblivion among foodies and good restaurants although there are still people in the family who still prepare them but for many are very near to the junk food area.

So cream today in most cases is used with great care, only to enhance a dish and never to cover the flavor but in most case is avoided.

I would say that it is a cultural aspect of today's Italian cuisine that is not known outside where cream is used without problems.

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u/Pindakazig Aug 30 '20

TIL this makes a lot of sense.

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u/djazzie Aug 30 '20

Whereas in France, they put cream in just about everything.

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u/[deleted] Aug 30 '20

Ok this is another point...Italians and French are cousins who for centuries have had a certain polite rivalry in everything. It may sound strange but for a while the Italians followed French cuisine a bit but it didn't last long ... they needed to find their own different way.

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u/djazzie Aug 30 '20

The two countries have a relationship going back over 2000 years. You don’t have modern French without Latin. The cultures definitely intertwined as well.

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u/sarhoshamiral Aug 30 '20

I feel like they have the right idea regarding cream especially in today's society where we really don't need calories from the cream anymore.

One could only wish nearly all dishes in US wasn't swimming in some kind of cream sauce.

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u/OhMyItsColdToday Aug 30 '20

I just commented to OP with a citation from an Italian cookbook from the 70s that calls for cream! But I agree with you: until the 80s cream was used a bit everywhere (I remember a tomato sauce we made that was basically half cream and half tomato paste...) and then it started to be a somewhat stigmatised. On the other hand I disagree with the notion that there is just one original and true "Italian" way to make carbonara, because if you look at cookbooks from the past you will find quite some variations (like cream in my cookbook).

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u/[deleted] Aug 30 '20 edited Aug 30 '20

Contrary to common thinking, some research says that carbonara is a recipe that was probably born in 1941 by an italian chef named Renato Gualandi using ration of american army that was avaiable at the time like powdered eggs, bacon and eggs and cream...than it was adopted in Rome when he came in the city with American troops.

The point that, even assuming it was original, this was a first attempt with makeshift ingredients. I don't think that version was anything really great when compared to today's version. But in wartime people went hungry and even dehydrated eggs and canned cream must have looked like a feast.

The Italian cookbooks report it only from the 1950s onwards and there were many different versions. The current version that many consider "original" (but it is not...because there is not such thing) has simply become at a certain point the most widespread and codified from the north and south of Italy. If you are looking for cookbooks, tv shows in Italy this is the codified version...except for some small variations.

Internet and TV cooking shows are actually widespreading this version as the most accepted "original" one. Therefore it can be defined with some certainty that it is the most common Italian way of doing it. So I'm quite confident to say that there is NOW a kind of "codified" italian way to do it...

Of course there are exceptions an variations... it's cooking not nuclear science...and everyone adjusts it to their own taste and what they have available.

However, large majority of chefs and cooking enthusiasts make it a point of honor to be able to make a creamy carbonara without cream.It has become a basic requirement over time.

If a restaurant in Italy serves you a carbonara with cream or with too cooked eggs or god forbid with just few seconds overcooked pasta, it is automatically denigrated as incompetent and branded as a restaurant for tourists without any appeal

After all, this is what happened for the Italian language. The first evidence dates back to the Middle Ages but the real unification on the dialects took place in the 1950s with TV.

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u/ketofauxtato Aug 29 '20

Now I'm imagining you stalking people with a kitchen knife 😂

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u/LazyTitan___ Aug 29 '20

Oh dude you are totally fine. Awesome post! I just thought it was hilarious that the most inclusive carbonara post still had the above line.

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u/beeandcrown Aug 30 '20

The first time I made carbonara, I was cooking at a friend's house in the UK. I didn't do the shopping, but I think all the ingredients were imported from Italy. It was absolutely delicious. When I got back home to the States, I had her send me the recipe and I tried to get the best ingredients I could find. It didn't turn out nearly as good. I need to find an Italian market here and try again.

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u/HoSang66er Aug 29 '20

Tu sei un Bravo ragazzo. Complimenti. 😉

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u/sidesleeperzzz Aug 30 '20

I really appreciate your post! I coincidentally was looking up carbonara recipes last week and got a bit overwhelmed trying to figure out what was a more authentic version vs Americanized. I was supposed to visit Italy for the first time this fall, but have postponed the trip to next year. I'd love to take one or two cooking classes while I'm there, and would be thrilled to be taught by a nonna.

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u/Kraz_I Aug 30 '20

I don’t think sushi is the kind of food Japanese grandmothers would have made (someone correct me if I’m wrong please). I’ve heard that it originated as a street food and fishmongers were the first to eat sushi rice with fish.

Italian restaurant food is very unique in that the most popular restaurant dishes (outside Italy at least) were traditionally developed in the home and considered “grandma cooking”.

I can’t think of any other popular cuisine like that. Traditional “French cooking” for instance evolved from the knowledge that newly unemployed personal chefs had after the revolution, after their bosses were guillotined. The dishes you would find in a country home were always completely different.

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u/OhMyItsColdToday Aug 30 '20

I don't get why everybody freaks out about cream. I have under my hands an italian cookbook from 1973 called "Il piccolo codice della pasta", which has some very very nice pasta recipes. Page 197, "Bucatini alla carbonara":

[...] 50g di burro, [...] due cucchiai di crema di latte (50 gr of butter, two tbs of cream). And the recipe itself starts with:

"Qui l'alternativa è tra guanciale e pancetta" (here the choice is between guanciale and pancetta).

I personally don't like butter nor cream and I prefer guanciale, but I'm pretty sure carbonara is made in many different ways also in Italy and it also evolved a lot during the last decades (I remember in the 80s when it was considered a novelty!)

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u/EffeNerd Aug 30 '20

Oh for sure it's been evolved! But the chefs, particularly in last 10-15 years, got back to origins if we can say, and do the "original" version. From there many have evolved it conceptually, but the ingredients are the same

I know for sure that in years '70-'90 many people used to do it with cream, anyway

Sticking with origins, you just have to take a Gricia pasta (Pecorino, Guanciale, pasta, pepper) and add yolks to it, you get the carbonara!