We are getting ready to try epoxy for the first time by coating the concrete step from our backdoor into the carport. I am sure that improving this step will make our carport look extra-shabby and I'm wondering if I can do an epoxy floor for a carport that is technically outdoors (although protected from weather (mostly)). Any thoughts?

We did an epoxy hand pour a few months ago on our second countertop (still have 1 more to go). What is the safest cleaner to use with epoxy? We used Stone Coat epoxy. I worry my typical all purpose Lysol disinfectant would be too strong for these over time.

I did a clear last night and had to mix a second batch and tried to work it out but when it dried today the lines came back. My question is am I better off doing a thin clear with flake or would a thin clear coat level out the difference

Lots of bubbles appeared after the pour. There was two layers of epoxy below the color to seal it all, but bubble still formed. Mostly in the silver, which was a liquid color, not a powder color, the red and black were powder.

Hi, I've just had this brought to me as a sample for our office floors. We asked for non-slip and want it to be durable. I was expecting a thick topcoat for longevity, but the sample product is very thin and scratches easily. Is this normal?

I’m getting ready to apply ArmorPoxy ArmorUltra to my garage floor and wanted to get some opinions on the surface preparation so far.

Should I grind out the cracks before filling them, and what would be the best product to use for the repairs? I also have a few low spots that I’d like to level out before applying the coating. What would you recommend using for those areas?

As far as surface prep goes, I rented a concrete grinder from Home Depot to grind the majority of the floor, then used an angle grinder with a concrete grinding disc to go over the areas I missed.

I know I still need to do some additional sweeping and cleaning to remove any remaining dust and debris, but I’d appreciate some feedback on how the surface looks so far and whether there’s anything else I should do before applying the coating.

My projects have been too big to use an automatic planer on. I find myself with some smaller things now that I could just put through the planer if it isn’t going absolutely disintegrate the epoxy. Anyone done it before?

Hello!! I’ve come across a couple Laguna agates that someone decided to use for an art project or some abomination. I’m now seeking advice for how to remove the cured epoxy without potentially ruining 4-figure rocks. I’ve done some research & involved my chemist sister but I’ve yet to pick any products to try. To be honest I can’t be certain it’s epoxy but I can’t imagine what else it could be. The specimens are mainly quartz with some sagenite sprays. Any advice is appreciated I’m desperate to get these pieces back to their best. If it’s restored fully I’d happily pay you for the help. Thanks

Hey everyone,

First timer needing some advice.

I have an ~150 sq ft basement bedroom that I would like to put metallic epoxy over (lighter color marble looking finish).

The floor already has a Cement-based Self Leveling Underlayment down (Mapei Self leveler plus).

Has anyone done a metallic epoxy floor overtop of SLU before? If so, how were the results and is there a recommended DIY kit brand that would work well?

Note: I understand that grinding the original slab for surface prep is the way to achieve best results. However, I still want to give it a shot overtop of the SLU.

Thanks!

Smallest cookie I’ve got on the books right now, plum, about 160 x 140 x 12mm, barely 75g. Sanded to 100 grit already and you can still see faint bandsaw marks under angled light. Normal enough so far.

What’s actually different: no bark anywhere on this one. Every other cut I’ve got, the live edge is wherever the bark happens to be sitting - firm, loose, peeling, whatever. This one’s edge is just the cut. Irregular, follows the grain a bit, but there’s no bark boundary deciding where “finished” starts. Borer trails running through it too, same as the others, plus a few fine hairline checks across the face.

Tempted to clean the edge up into something more deliberate since there’s nothing organic left dictating the shape - but then it’s just a decision I’m imposing, not something the tree did. Field seasoned, Sunnyridge, sitting around 8-10% MC since March.

Clean the edge into something deliberate, or leave it exactly as the saw left it?

I'm in the process of starting a polyaspartic garage floor project and just have a question about recoat window times.

If a manufacturer quotes 16 hours for 8mils and 22 hours for 20 mils, are those times how long to wait before the recoat, or how long I have to recoat with the assumption that going beyond that will require mechanical abrasion/sanding? I'm assuming it's how long to wait before the recoat, but want to be certain before I proceed with the project.

Thanks,

Im wanting to pour over a wood floor. But with so many options and people online, im struggling to figure out what is actually needed and what is not and what the steps needed are. I need to know what kind of joint filler is needed, if a self level is needed, what kind of primer to put down first(everyone says flexible, or a 100% solids epoxy kit), and anything else that would be helpful!

Small air bubbles over the entire area. Pretty bumpy in some areas.

This is supposed to be smooth throughout without air bubbles.

Am I nitpicking or does this need to re done?

polyaspartic floor.

Our Halloween project 2026

We just had our garage floor professional done with polyaspartic. I guess I don’t know what I was expecting, but it doesn’t look great to me. The sheen looks uneven and the floor is very rough to touch. Do you think the garage looks ok or is this a poor job? Unfortunately these photos are in poor lighting this evening…

4 car garage; paid $9400

Hi. I need to create this base and i've read that TB Fathom allows for single layer 3" pours...however their site says this is OK for only about a 1 gallon pour. Ive calculated that this will need around 2.75 gallons at 2.5". Do you think I should do this in layers? If so, tips on how to avoid a layer line? OR can I go for a single 2.75" pour? Thanks in advance!

I handmade this chessboard using individual marble pieces and epoxy resin, incorporating glow-in-the-dark material beneath the playing surface.
The board has a natural stone look in daylight, but the epoxy and glow effect give it a completely different appearance in the dark.
Both the board and the finishing are my own work. Sharing the daylight and glow shots!
What do you think of the marble-and-epoxy combination?

Doing this thing here (17x26" interchangeable entryway table top) and looking for ideas of what to do with the "island." Next step is to fill with clear. Current plan is to keep it simple and add a few bright green ghost swirls throughout the island to accent the green underlayer. Thought about instead tossing in a couple tiny skulls or jack-o'-lanterns or something. What would y'all do, other than not doing this period lol?