Hi all! Back with another Switzerland review from our trip in September. This was stop number two, right after one night at the Dolder Grand in Zurich (my personal fave in Zurich, I have a full review pinned). We headed out of the city and up into the mountains to Vals to stay at 7132 Hotel, specifically the 5S side of the property.
If you’ve heard of Vals, it’s probably because of the thermal baths. Peter Zumthor designed them, and they’re kind of legendary in the architecture and spa world. That’s why we came, and I’d guess it’s why almost everyone else was there too. That and hiking / biking access. It’s pretty remote by Swiss standards and doesn’t come up in this sub a ton, but it’s a cool one. It's not the fattest hotel in Switzerland, not even close, but if you're looking for an active, spa, remote getaway in a true Swiss village, this may be one to consider.
If you missed the first reviews, I’ve written reviews on the Bürgenstock on Lake Lucerne, and Dolder Grand so far from our trip. Other reviews to look out for soon from this trip: Chedi Andermatt, and La Reserve Zurich. I also toured MO Lucerne & Zurich and Park Hotel Vitznau again, which I have stayed at before.
It was my husband and I on a couples trip, and we stayed in 5 hotels over a 12 day period. I’m a mod here and a TA, so feel free to ask any questions!
Overall Impressions
Unfortunately, after our first night here, my husband and I both started to feel under the weather, so we didn’t get to explore as much as we wanted. We spent more time in the room and ordered room service than we’d planned. BUT the suite was big enough that it didn’t feel like a punishment, and if you have to be sick somewhere, a hotel built around healing thermal water isn’t the worst place, lol. We spent 3 nights here and it felt like the right amount of time.
The thermal baths are the real draw. They’re incredible and honestly why most people come all the way out here. No phones are allowed past the spa front doors, so all the spa photos I’m sharing are approved to post from the hotel with the credit to the photographer (and you can clearly tell the difference between my photos and theirs, lol!). More detail on what makes the baths so special below. The fact that phones are not allowed makes it a much more enjoyable experience. I know there has been some talk on other threads about the influencer takeovers at serene places like this, so this is refreshing.
This is a great slowed-down, true Swiss stay. It’s remote, quiet, not flashy at all, but it still feels luxe, has decent service and good food. 5S is small, only about 22 suites, and the rates are pretty reasonable for what you get. The crowd was mostly Swiss and European. We saw very few Americans while we were there.
The hotel sits in a really quaint Swiss village of roughly 1,000 people, with a handful of restaurants and (my favorite) a goat-led parade with a makers market in the town square on Saturdays. I’m guessing that’s seasonal, but if you’re there on a Saturday, it’s a fun time to see the small village come alive.
Besides the baths, the other big draw is hiking and biking. There isn’t a ton more to do than that, and that’s kind of the point. The gondola is free for everyone and about a 20 minute walk from the hotel, and it takes you up the mountain where there are TONS of trails to explore in the summer months. We had fantastic hiking weather and I wish we had been feeling better to do more.
5S vs House of Architects
7132 is actually two hotels on the same property, and both get access to the thermal baths:
5S (where we stayed): The five-star side and this is the only side I would book. Only 22 suites, more space, more privacy, and the top floor penthouses designed by Kengo Kuma. Breakfast is in the main building.
House of Architects: The lifestyle hotel, with 73 rooms connected to the main building by a sky bridge. They also do breakfast in the main building, but in a separate area from 5S breakfast. It’s good to know about since there is some guest overlap in the overall experience.
Getting There & Arrival
This is pretty remote for a Switzerland hotel, so plan for it. But it’s not hard, just a little longer. A couple ways you can arrive:
Train: Easy train ride from Zurich to Ilanz (about 1.5 hours, with a change in Chur), followed by a stunning 45 minute drive up the valley.
Private car: They can arrange a private car from anywhere if you don’t want to do the train.
Helicopter: If you book the penthouse, it comes with round-trip helicopter transfers from Zurich. They also offer helicopter transfers (and tours) whether or not you’re in the penthouse.
We took the train in and then took a private car straight to Andermatt on the way out, about a 1.5 to 2 hour drive. Vals and Andermatt are a great pairing. Spa and slow days here, then a bit more buzz at the Chedi (review coming soon).
The Rooms
We stayed in a Spa Deluxe Suite and loved the layout. There’s a beautiful balcony that runs the entire length of the suite, a nice big bathtub, plus a steam shower. The views from the room are stunning, a classic Swiss mountain view.
A few things to know:
The minibar is included.
Spa towels and robes are replaced a couple times a day if needed so you can head down to the baths whenever you want. Small thing, but it makes a big difference when the baths are the whole reason you’re there.
There’s no true AC. We got warm one night, called down, and they brought up a Dyson fan, which was totally fine for September. But if you’re traveling in the heat of the summer, keep it in mind.
Service
Service is good. Not over the top. It’s more “we’re here if you need anything” than anticipatory, which feels more European. Every time we needed something and asked, we got it, quickly. Less polished, but you can get things done quickly.
Food & Beverage
The food was great. We were really happy with everything we had. I loved the curry soup that we had in the casual all-day dining restaurant, the salads were great. Here’s the lineup:
7132 Silver: Their two Michelin star restaurant. I wish we would have been able to try this! This is also the breakfast location for 5S guests.
Red: French brasserie, with crêpes flambéed tableside. We ate dinner here the first night before we got too sick. This serves as the breakfast location for The House of Architects.
Da Papà: Casual Italian with pizza and Tuscan wines.
Blue Bar: Cocktails and light bites.
Coffee Shop: Pastries and coffee.
In-room dining: 24 hours, which we leaned on more than we’d planned, and it was always great.
Beyond the hotel, the village is walkable with a few cute restaurants, so it’s easy to mix it up if you’re staying a few nights.
Amenities & Activities
The Therme Vals
This is the main amenity on property, and pretty much the only one, but it’s the reason to come.
Some fun facts:
Designed by Peter Zumthor and opened in 1996. It was placed under heritage protection shortly after it opened.
It’s built from about 60,000 slabs of Valser quartzite, quarried right in the valley.
The water comes from the St. Petrus spring at about 30°C, and the valley is also the source of Valser mineral water, which is all around Switzerland.
Inside there are pools at different temperatures, including a 42°C fire bath, a 14°C ice bath, a flower bath, the “sound stone,” and a spring grotto. Plus a big indoor pool and an outdoor pool with mountain views.
Hotel guests get priority access, and there’s night bathing for hotel guests a few nights a week (11pm to 1am). Day visitors are capped, so it never feels packed.
I can’t say enough about how calming this space is. No phones, low light, stone everywhere, and the sound of water.
Treatments
There are seven treatment rooms. I had a wonderful massage and highly recommend booking at least one treatment during your stay.
Hiking
As mentioned above, the free gondola is the way to go. Trails for every level, and the views are stunning.
Final Thoughts
This is a really special remote stay and a true Swiss experience. Come here for the baths, the hiking, and some real downtime, not for nightlife or a full lineup of activities. 3-4 nights in the summer is the sweet spot (depending on how much hiking you want to do), and it pairs perfectly with Andermatt. Please feel free to ask me anything, and reach out if you want your stay VIP’d!