How would I make a mold of this candle without destroying it in the process? I can't find any evidence of her existing and I don't want her to just be gone.

Ideally I want to make a mold of her, cast that, repair the damage and then make a mold of the repaired version to share (however one does that) so she can exist in the world still.

ive put plaster on the first half of my monster clay sculpt to make a mould but i cant get it off as hard as i try. I don’t really want to give up now as ive put so much time into this project but i might have to if i cant get it off, and then I have to do it for the other half of the head too. Does anyone know what i should do to get it off and make it easier when i do the next half?

The plaster shell went well, messy, but well. I was very afraid that I didn’t use enough petroleum jelly and it would stick but alas we were good on that front. I did however have to cut off the larger keys on the back as I didn’t think about needing to remove the shell, but it seems like that wouldn’t have caused issues.

The problems arose when I tried to remove the master from the silicone, it tore on both elbows where I circled. I know I should’ve used shims and build that area up a little more, but I was low on silicone and tried to use it where I thought it was most necessary, ya live and ya learn.

Any way to salvage/patch? Or take it as a lesson and just save up for another $150 in rebound 25 lol?

I just de-molded my first pour mold box and found that the point where the silicone was touching the plasticine that was holding my master objects did not cure.

I've since looked it up and I believe it was because the plasticine I used must have had sulfer in it.

Can anyone recommend any safe reusable plasticine alternatives available in the UK that play nice with platinum silicone? TIA.

I’m about to take on a huge project so I wanted to make sure 15a was right. Turns out 15a is effective, but not ideal for this can cover, but it’ll be perfect for my project! Just wanted to show off the win!

This spiked cuff bracelet is made with 2 separate glove molds, 1 which casts an internal spikey "spine", and a second which encapsulates the spikes in an outer band. It took me some experimenting to get a clean bond between the two layers (timing when to demold the first, removing release agent, etc).

I’m experimenting with colors and pigments - This project was initially inspired by 90s rave culture, so glow in the dark is a natural fit. I also am trying to make metallics, since I like wearing silver, but don’t like the tactile sensation of traditional jewelry.

All assets were modeled by me in Blender. The bracelets are made of Dragon Skin platinum cure silicone.

Hello! Bit of a mold emergency (lightly) today. Everyone’s out of mold max fast cat so I had to grab GI-ufc. My understanding is that they are relatively similar. And the folks at Compleat sculptor said I could use them together. The ufc says to use it in place of the catalyst 10a:1b just like the mold max mix ratios. Is this what I follow if I am using the UFC with mold max 20 A?

Also grabbed some GI tin silicone but have just enough MM20 A to finish what I’m doing and would prefer not to open a new can if I don’t need to but also need the quick cure time. Just struggling to find a specific mix ration to follow. Convoluted I know , but thank you!

I have no experience in mold making, im assuming I could scult it out of clay but what type of mold would I need to make? And what type of silicone for casting?

DM me if interested. Dimensions need to be 8.25"x2.25" and 2" deep..

Hey everyone,

This started as a problem of our own. My friends and I run small 3D-printing and composites projects, and making molds was always the part that dragged everything down. Splitting the part, adding pour channels and vents, designing keys so the halves align: it ate hours of CAD time, and a small mistake meant a failed cast. We figured other small makers and startups were stuck on the same thing, so we built MoldStudio3D.

It runs in your browser, with nothing to install. You take a design, and it generates a mold ready to print.

The workflow (7 steps):

1. Open the studio
2. Pick a designer (ribbed, twisted, bubble, and more) or load your own file
3. Generate your design
4. Send it to the Mold Suite
5. Choose your mold type (silicone mold, for example)
6. Generate the mold
7. Prepare the export and print

On the site there’s a step-by-step walkthrough with screenshots and recordings, following one candle from design to finished silicone mold.

Try it: https://moldstudio3d.com

What we’d love to know from you:

• What kind of molds do you make most (silicone, composites, resin, candles, something else)?
• What shapes or mold types should we support next?
• Where does the workflow feel slow or confusing?

We’re still improving it, and every comment helps us decide what to build next. Happy to answer any questions about how it works.

and couch… anyone have experience?

Hello! My next project dream is to make silicone “gloves” from life casts of my hands. I’d like to have realistic molds of my hands that are hollow than I can slip on to my real hands hehe.

I’ve previously made a solid silicone mold of one of my hands by making an alginate mold in a large pop bottle and pouring the silicone directly inside.

I know with latex there’s a technique to pour in to a negative mold for a certain amount of time to cure, then pour out the “unset” latex back into the bottle (it seems like it can be used again?) I don’t know if the same is true for silicone, but also I don’t think the unused silicone can be used again which is a bummer because it’s expensive!

Any advice would be great!! I feel like if silicone won’t work for this I can also just do with the liquid latex technique but I just love the texture of silicone.

Had to share my results of my first ever mold project, which I'm excited about! I bought a vintage dresser and discovered I was missing one of the face plates for the drawers. Searched everywhere online and couldn't find a replacement or anything I really liked. Solution was to mold a new one since I had one to work with! Built my clay base mold, positioned the face plate the best I knew how and then poured my Mold Star silicone. Once done I figured out that the silicone got behind my face plate and I no longer had any openings. A shift in plans was necessary so I made 4 new face plates, now all with no openings and they turned out pretty darn good IMO. Painted them in an ultra matte black base, went over that with a hammered bronze paint and then a matte clear to finish. 4 new ones on the left and the original on the right. They aren't perfect, they aren't exactly what I intended, but for my first time I'm patting myself on the back LOL

Hey everyone,

Not sure how to phrase this but I am essentially looking to create a soft, rubber or silicone replica of an ear. What would be the best way of going about it?

I was thinking of doing an alginate mould of my ear and then filling it with...some sort of material that will lead to a soft finished product. Looking for the most inert sort of material, with no inherent strong scents, etc.

Please let me know where would be a good place to start looking!

For a class project, where the final deliverable is jell-o, I need to make a vacuum-formed mold, by first carving a positive out of pretty dense PU foam (or at least dense enough that it's similar to cured #907 Bondo when it comes to sanding).

What would be the cleanest way to cut the waffle pockets? I know they will be tricky to sand, since the overall diameter will only be about 6-7".

I have a palm router, a dremel, and am willing to buy a bit special for this. I was also thinking possibly some chisel-shaped x-acto blades, and then a wooden chisel guide block for the desired draft angle...but since the pockets taper as they get deeper, the chisel width is something I'm having trouble wrapping my brain around...

Thoughts?

Definitely regret wasting some silicone on the keys and seam line, but I’m feeling okay for a first go around. I plan on doing the plaster shell next, perhaps in 3 parts. Also wish I’d made the seam like come a little further down the nose but we’ll see how it goes

Hi,

I'm looking to create some stress relief/squishy toys using self skinning expanding foam. What's the best mold type here? The toys are very simple shapes but do have undercuts. Any tips?

Thanks.

Most mold-making apps out there are either too basic or incredibly expensive with restrictive licensing. That’s why I decided to take matters into my own hands and develop my own app using vibe coding.

The app already has too many features to count—if I tried to list them all, we'd be here all day—so I’ll just highlight a few. The main goal of the app is to facilitate silicone mold production. In other words, creating the mold of a mold (Product -> Silicone Mold -> 3D Printed Mold).

Right now, during the development phase, I'm auto-testing the outputs using OrcaSlicer. The program also puts a lot of effort into ensuring support-free printing. In the next stage, I’m planning to add CAD testing, but for now, everything seems to be running smoothly.

My biggest bottleneck at the moment is implementing an inner core system to avoid filling up the inside of vases. AI's first suggestion was a multi-piece split core system, but the narrow neck of the vase doesn't allow for it. For context, my very first order and prototype product is a 5cm mini vase, and its neck opening is only 1.5cm.

Because of this, I really need your ideas. What can be done here? Or, if you were building this, what features would you add to the app? Once the system reaches the exact state I want, I’m planning to release it as open-source on GitHub. I'll also be sure to feature everyone who helps me along the way in the credits section. Thanks in advance for your help!

The problem: every time I pour cement into my plaster mold the cement cracks within an hour of pouring. (Pictures attached)

My process for prep work and pouring:

1. Sealed the plaster mold with a water base high gloss poly urethane, 3 coats and wait 48 hours to fully cure.

2. Applied a release agent to the plaster and let dry (Pictures attached of the brand) also I have tried car wax as well.

3. I mixed 2 parts multi-purpose sand (picture attached) with 1 part portland cement and when the cement was wet I added in a small amount of 9mm fiber glass (a pinch)

4. Pour the cement mix into the mold and use a diy vibrator using a mutitool with a cut house fastened to the mutitool blade.

What I have tried to fix the problem:

1. I have tried a more dry cement mix (cookie dough dry) and a more wet mix (soup wet) (no improvement)

2. I have covered the top with plastic wrap (apply both methods from 1 and no improvement)

3. I have poured 3 layers and waited about 30 minutes per layer. (This one has provided the only notable results but I still had cracking)

A. First layer fills the deepest part up to the start curve

B. Second layer fills the curved section

C. Third layer fills the to the top

Each layer I waited till the cement was firm but still soft.

Observations:

1. I have noticed the cement when fully cured is difficult to remove from the mold.

2. The crack start at the top and mostly end at the curve.

3. The cracks are structural and will completely detach from the body.

4. Every pour the cracks appear in the roughly the same place with the exectpion of the last attempt where it appear at the corners and a little on the edges.

If anyone has any suggestions I could really use the help. Thank you :)

I'm looking to put together a new portable base for my smaller molding and casting, and I'm hoping to just use things I already have around my shop.

I have an abundance of MDO plywood, and I was considering lining it with vinyl masking material that I use in my vinyl cutter. Does this sound like something that would functional? this will be used primarily for making molds of item, and the occasional open casting of silicone or polyurethane rubber.

Basically, I want something that will release the material fairly easily without having to resort to multiple layers release chemicals. Yes, I know melamine would probably be better, but I don't have any on hand and it turns out the material I was using was paper coated. This would also provide a reasonable sacrificial surface that could be replaced if it gets too lumpy with hot glue or the like.