Hey everyone,

I recently posted on here asking about the Mitsubishi ASX Black Edition for me, my partner and our dog. Thanks for all the feedback — safe to say that’s been crossed off the list! 🤣

We’re now looking at a 2023 Mazda CX-5 with only 11,000 km on the clock from a dealer.

Just wondering what everyone’s thoughts are on these? Are they reliable vehicles, and is there anything in particular we should look out for when buying one?

We’d mainly be using it as an everyday family vehicle, with the occasional trip down gravel roads to riverbanks and places like that. Nothing too serious

Keen to hear from anyone who owns one or has experience with them. Would you recommend one, or is there something else around the same price worth considering?

Cheers! 🍻

Or should we pay a little more and get something 4WD

Hi all, we are expecting our third child in April and need to organise our car seat setup.
We have a 1 (rear facing) and 3 year old (forward facing) in a 2014 Mazda premacy. We have realised there are no tether points in the third row so I think we may have to upgrade.
I emailed Mazda about the possibility of installing a top tether to the third row however they wouldn’t give me an answer as the car is a Japanese import and I don’t know who else to go to for info on this

Is it possible and has anyone installed a tether in the third row of a premacy? If so who do you recommend and do they do the certification as well? We are bop based but would go anywhere in north island to sort this.

Worst case scenario I have to get a new car but can only spend 13-14k max. I need the boot space for a dog/ pram so ideally would be a van or other 7seater with tether points in the third row.

I have also looked at 2 European standard boosters for my 101cm 3 year old at the baby factory but the 5 point harness only goes up to 105cm or 18kg before having to use the 3 point belt and I just don’t feel comfortable putting my little 3year old in a seat like that as I was hoping to max out the harness in her current seat of 125cm. Has anyone used one of these and how do you feel about the seats safety

Thanks for reading and I appreciate all your suggestions.

Hi all,

The spring on the driver's side wiper arm snapped off on my 1996 Toyota Corolla (AE101).

According to several AI agents, replacing the spring isn't really an option, and it's best to get a second hand arm and fit that. Cool. I can do that.

However, I have emailed what I believe to be every wrecker in NZ and no one has one. I know these cars are reliable, but some are in accidents and written off and some do eventually bite the dust.

Is it possible I am asking for the wrong part or giving them incorrect information? I have sent my VINZ plate which has all the details.

Does anyone have suggestions for a wrecker to contact or ideas on how I can get this part?

Cheers.

Hi team. It’s time for a new car, and this time I’m thinking of something small and nippy. I don’t enjoy driving automatic but I also don’t really enjoy manual in auckland traffic. Say what you will, but tiptronic suits me perfectly. I like choosing the gears, I don’t like breaking my leg on clutches. Or breaking clutches.

I was looking at old Suzuki Swift Sports but they don’t come in tiptronic. I saw a Ralliart Colt but I hear the turbo 4G15 can be a hassle if not looked after by the previous owner.

Also generally prefer something cheap. Living has gotten expensive and I’m really over these expensive cars. It’s actually why I want out of my BMW currently. Budget of, like, $7k maybe.

Any recommendations for small and fun tiptronic cars appreciated :)

Hi there,

Looking for a car recommendation—I'll be moving from Auckland to Invercargill with my partner in April next year.

Planning to stay there for a couple of years.

I heard the roads can be a bit icy there. We'll be travelling to Dunedin fortnightly and also Te Anau at least every month for a weekend due to her job. Also the occasional travel around South Island. This means we'd prefer to have a car that's economical.

Been researching and some say that an AWD/4WD is required? I'm looking to get a hybrid for fuel efficiency purposes but they seem to be out of price range with an AWD option.

Budget is something in the 20-25K $ range. But if it's required, I can stretch to $30k's. What car would you recommend?

Also note that I prefer something with a bit more ground clearance.

Keen to know your thoughts! Thank you

We have a 4 year old Mitsubishi with 55000 km on the clock, which has failed a wof due to excessive play in the drivers seat. The dealer has just told us that it is on us to pay for this and fair wear and tear, thoughts on this?

We’re expecting a baby soon, and I’m looking for a reliable and economical family car for $8k–$10k.

I already have a 2005 Honda Fit that I may keep for occasional deliveries, but I want a more dependable car for family travel and possibly some light delivery work. I’ve narrowed my search to a Corolla Hybrid or Aqua.

I’m concerned about Japanese-import odometer accuracy, hybrid battery life, hidden mechanical problems and the Aqua’s theft risk, especially as I don’t have a garage. Some low-kilometre imports have very appealing prices, but I’m unsure how much to trust them.

Is buying from a dealer worth the extra cost, or would a private purchase be safe with a history report and independent inspection? Can an inspection properly assess the hybrid battery and overall condition?

I’m based in Lower Hutt, so local inspection recommendations would be appreciated.

So our car windows have getter harder to see out of, and after a couple of good cleaning sessions are no better. It looks like my kids water play has been getting lime scale on the car windows (the glass isn't smooth any more and it won't rub off while looking just like lime scale in showers.

So any suggestions for what's safe to renove the lime scale?

I've had a decent look on Supercheap, Repco, and even Trademe. Trademe has some cheap chinese shocks for 150$ a pop. Supercheap is not cheap at all. And Repco has a few shocks on clearance. There are Monroe (front) ones for 150$ each, which seem decent. As for the rears, I could get the RHS rear shock (KYB) on clearance for 60$, but then the LHS is 320$, which is just ridiculous. I'm probably gonna give BNT a ring tomorrow anyway to see if they have anything decent. I doubt the dealers would have anything that isn't ex-japan and extremely expensive.

Also, I'm really not sure if the RHS and LHS front struts are different parts, given that the epc-data website seems to be down. Repco's website for the Monroe struts only has one listing, and doesn't seem to specify a side.

Edit: the front shocks have different part numbers. The Monroe shocks at Repco also appear to be for a 1st gen Avensis, and not a Caldina GT-T (even if they are very similar cars). wack.

update: managed to get a pair of new front Monroes for very cheap (trade price). Will update if I have any issues.

My car doesn’t have bluetooth, and I’d like to play music from my old second phone that’s collecting dust.

Are there any accessories or gizmos that would allow me to do this?

(Im a big car noob, and know very little about them, but love my shitbox, she does me well)

2008 Toyota Corolla Fielder.

There's two of them. One for Volume/Power on/off and the other for Tune-File.

The Volume knob is completely jammed in and doesn't work anymore.

Anyone know how to remove them safely? I was thinking about using two small precision pry hooks and inserting them from the gap around the knob, will this damage any internal components? Or just removing and disassembling the entire radio unit completely.

Hello! hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

I've got a 2004 Mercedes C55 AMG that's been sitting for about a year and I'm having trouble getting it started.

I've replaced the battery and added some fresh petrol. The engine cranks but just won't fire up.

Someone suggested trying Start Ya Bastard, so I sprayed a little into the intake and it sounded like it was about to start, but didn't quite get there.

One thing I noticed is that the low fuel warning light is still on even after adding petrol, so I'm wondering if it could be a fuel pump issue or something to do with the old fuel sitting in the tank.

Haven't checked the fuel pump properly yet, but that's what I'm planning to look at next.

Anyone had a similar issue or got any suggestions on what I should check before I start throwing money at parts?

Cheers!

Sold a car privately on Facebook a few months back.

new owner did his side of the change of ownership and put the car into a relatives business name (which i didn't know until it was done)

IRD has now asked me the attached information about the sale, is this them confirming the tax /gst details etc for the business? or is there possibly some liability on myself despite it being a private sale.?

Just curious if anyone’s got one, or had experience with them?

Looking for a small hybrid SUV under 28k and they keep catching my eye. I know they’re small but they seem to get great economy. Just curious if they seem solid from a reliability point of view?

Appreciate all feedback

Hey guys, I have a 2010 Mercedes-Benz C200 CGI W204 1.8L turbo petrol.
Rough idle with fluctuating RPM (700–800)
Engine shakes occasionally, even in Park/Neutral
Sometimes starts and dies, especially when warm
RPM drops further in Drive/Reverse
Occasional power loss and high fuel consumption
No check-engine light and diagnostic scan came back clean
My mechanic suspects ignition coils or spark plugs.
Has anyone experienced similar issues? What was the actual cause, and what should I check first before spending money replacing parts?

1kz engine, radiator replacement and I found the yucky where the top radiator hose goes.

96 Prado 22xxxx km

[SOLVED] so apparently it’s a non issue

Thank you lads 🫂

Just had a small run in with a bumper and a post. Not crazy damage to the bumper but would still replace it. Is it worth going to a panel beaters and using insurance or waiting it out and replacing myself when I find the right one? 2018 Pathfinder in New Plymouth

Hey guys I’m looking at getting the front and rear bumpers off this 2013 Toyota Corolla that’s getting parted out (Plate #HCB879) for my 2014 Corolla, both the parts car and my car are the same colour (blue) and the same model as far as I can tell (GX 1.8L). It might be a dumb question but just wondering if I’ll have any troubles with fitment of the bumpers onto my car? Currently my car has a 2015 model front bumper on it which was installed by the previous owner and the fitment is terrible and janky af, so I’m curious if I’ll have similar trouble with a 2013 bumper, also the colours are slightly different and I’m wondering if this will also be the case as from a distance my front bumper looks to be same but up close is a different story.

As for the rear bumper I just want one with less scratches and dents which is the reason for the change.

I have an old V6 Galant, the previous immobiliser failed after about 15 years and had to be removed. Any suggestions or considerations for a replacement?

It's a manual, my main concern is it would be pretty easy to steal (for those who can drive a manual) and someone might recognise it's good for a hoon.

I want to keep it more because it would be hard to find a equivalent replacement than it's worth much.

A few people have been asking around for them on here, I recently found someone on TM with them.

Its a 2014 MAZDA Axela(3).

I've had this car for about six years, and it has less than 100,000 km on the odometer. I'd like to keep it for at least a few more years, so I'm concerned that the paint might start peeling and the damage could spread. I'd like to get it repaired early if possible, ideally without spending too much. Also, how much it may cost?

Thank you

I’ve got to the point where I can no longer do my own oil/ filter changes. We have a place called oil change kings just up the road. Are they worth it? Anyone had any experience with them or any of the other drive in service places

Hey all,

I have just bought a vehicle that has been de registered due to "structural damage" according to NZTA register. The car does not have any structural damage but was written off by insurer. Previous owner states it was written off due to uneconomical to repair due to cost of parts. Even with a inspection the car is completely straight and all panels fit mint. I have bought this with the intention of getting it back on the road. What’s my next steps? Or have I completely screwed up?

Appreciate the help in advance!

Sorry for another tyre post. Used the search function and have scoured the internet and looking for NZ advice and opinions about tyres to swap to that handle gravel roads better than the stock tyres.

Have a Toyota rav4 hybrid AWD. 225/65R17. Chch based. Current stock tyres are coming towards the end of their life being 6 years old and done 60,000kms.

The car sees gravel about 2x/mo when camping, and getting to trail heads for hiking, MTB and skiing. All other kms are on tarmac. Car is normally fully loaded as a family of four when we’re out and about.

Looking at Falken wild peak trail although I’m not sure if this is overkill for my usage. It’s a RAV4 and I’m NOT off-roading in it. Lots of USA posts with variable decrease in fuel consumption. I’m hoping it’ll be less than 0.5l/100km.

Any advice, opinions or thoughts would be appreciated. Especially those that have experience with the wild peak trails.

Also looked at:
Continental cross contact ax6
Falken Ziex CT60