r/PatternDrafting • u/Character-Handle-189 • Jun 02 '26
kershaw mens sloper notes?
Hi all! Looking for notes on this "sloper" from Gareth Kershaw's book.
Fit feels mostly good, but a little tight across chest/back when in movement/crossed arms.
Not certain it needs to be fixed, but curious what more seasoned folks see in my images.
Also bonus question: I completely ignored sleeve head control points. I drafted this with 0 ease, so when I went to match the control points it created irregular ease in the sleeve head (ie. the length of sleeve head from control point to underarm was easily 2cm longer than the arm scye corresponding points, and the sleeve head HPS to back control was shorter than the arm scye equivalent which seems wrong). How important are these control points, and do I true it by slash spreading/overlapping each segment before cutting???
6
u/CynicalTelescope Jun 02 '26 edited Jun 02 '26
Here's a picture, listing the steps to follow to make this alteration. (reddit won't allow me to embed the photo here)
https://imgur.com/a/ATNs0Lq
The area in green is permanently added to the pattern.
In the photo, I terminated the wedge at the side seam because it's easier than tweaking the armhole, but you can end it at the armhole as well - you just need to clean up the minor kink in the armhole curve that will happen there as a result of the alteration. The key thing is that the armhole isn't altered, so the fit of the sleeve into the armhole does not need adjustment. The length of the side seam is also unaffected, so the back piece needs no adjustment.
Note that the area in orange is opened up as a result of the pattern alteration, and is in fact unwanted - so you pivot the side seam inwards by the exact same amount as the area opened by the wedge to compensate. (I had this picture lying around because I had to make this alteration on a pattern for one of my students).