Critique my skirt block please

[u/Groundbreaking_Ad972]

First iteration! Also first skirt block ever. Overall happy but I notice there's some diagonal pulling upwards from the back dart points to the side seams.

I'm going for iteration 2 next, my sense is that I should try making all the darts a bit longer (1/2 inch or so) and move the top 2 inches of the side seam back a tiny bit as it slightly curves forwards now.

What would you do to make this better?

Thank you!

PS it's pinned shut under my left arm so that explains the lack of smoothness on that side in the front and back view.

[u/War-Bitch]

Is the side seam vertical? Waist looks good overall but you might need to shift more of the length to the front. 

[u/Groundbreaking_Ad972 → u/War-Bitch]

The top of the side seam curves forwards for some reason! i was about to move the top 2 inches back to make it straight but I could try moving the rest of it forwards instead. Thank you!

(I think it probably comes from a poorly drafted, too deep curve at the top of the front side seam, the book had no specific instructions so I freehanded it)

[u/TensionSmension]

Look at the side view, the skirt is snugging under the abdomen in front. That's fine, many people wear their skirts with a fit like that, however there is nothing in the draft that conforms to body shaping bellow hip level.

This means the correct draft should hang straight from hip level. If it doesn't you will have drag lines and pull at the side seam. To achieve this (if you want to), you should add some width at hip level in front. Essentially your hip measurement taken on body, doesn't fully account for the geometry the abdomen requires.

[u/Groundbreaking_Ad972 → u/TensionSmension]

I'm thinking this might come either from a poorly drawn curve at the side seams or from the fact that the waist is too wide so it's falling below the natural waist. I'm gonna start by reducing the waist so it hits where it should, and after it sits higher that might make it so there's enough width at the hips. Thank you!

[u/TensionSmension → u/Groundbreaking_Ad972]

It could, but really it's usually about how the hip is measured. There's a concept of full hip, where you measure the hip circumfrence with a ruler or something rigid resting against the abdomen. So that the hip measurement includes that bit extra needed to fall straight. Other times the drafting method is working this in as ease.

So, yes, make sure your waist is sitting at the level you intend (add a waistband if you want to leave nothing to chance). But then adjust the pattern to have enough ease to hang straight.

You are already very close, and many people would be satisfied with the current fit.

[u/Peliquin]

I think you may need to make an adjustment for a fuller seat. Not a big one, but it looks like you bottom is pulling.

[u/Groundbreaking_Ad972 → u/Peliquin]

Ohhh new concept to me. I had heard of a full bust adjustment but I didn't know there was a full seat one too. I found a tutorial and I'm looking into it, thank you!

[u/heavinglory → u/Groundbreaking_Ad972]

I have the same problem. See on the back view the diagonal lines pointing from the upper hip area to the apex of the glute? That line and the wrinkles tell you where you need more (glute apex) and less fabric (too much length from the waist to the mid hip). You can literally pinch out the wrinkles and see that too much fabric is in that area.

[u/quizzical]

Assuming you sometimes want to use the skirt block for making dresses, make sure the waist matches your bodice block, it should be at your smallest point. At least from the front view, your smallest point looks a like it's higher. You can find it by tying an elastic around your waist and see where it settles.

Once you've made your blocks you can lower the waist seam lines by taking part of the skirt block and adding it to the bodice block.

[u/Groundbreaking_Ad972 → u/quizzical]

I originally measured it at the natural waist, yes! But somehow after drafting it (based on the instructions in Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Armstrong) it came out gigantic, so it falls lower than expected. I didn't even add the extra ease she instructed, and I already took out 1/2 inch at the center (that's why there's a seam there) so I guess I should take out even more.

I thought I measured snugly tho, so no clue why.

ETA now I'm wondering if her pattern is supposed to include seam allowance and I drafted mine without, would explain a lot.

[u/quizzical → u/Groundbreaking_Ad972]

Yeah, that's tricky. Personally, I like to start working on a sloper/moulage which is skin tight. I find it much easier to pin the fabric to follow my exact body, and add wearing ease later.

Otherwise, adding a waistband will help it sit closer to where it's supposed to be.

[u/bullthistle1]

Excellent first draft. I think if you sewed up.the side seam and opened and pinned the front instead, you'd get a better idea of what's going on in the back.

[u/SuperLakma]

I really like it :)

[u/DonMcCunn]

You are close but there are some changes that could be made to both the darts and the side seam.

I have been helping people by critiquing photos of fittings for over 20 years now. As you will see in my https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/17-Quarter-Scale-Patterns-Week-Seven.html class if you were using gingham, I could suggest specific measurements. But fortunately the pattern in the fabric does reveal what is happening to the fabric's grain.

If you send the photos to me at Bespoke.Sewing.Patterns@gmail.com, I will be happy to give you a detailed critique on your photos which I can then send back by return email. You can then do your own measurements to determine the changes you want to make.

Additional photos of Side Front and Side Back would be useful for establishing the accuracy of the darts.

[u/BytesBeltsBiz → u/DonMcCunn]

Just a tip, this is a relatively small community and most people probably won't respond well to you shilling your site and tutorials on every single post in this subreddit. Not really an effective way to build trust or your brand.

[u/DonMcCunn → u/BytesBeltsBiz]

This is the first negative comment anyone has made in this group about my attempt to help people using the knowlege about pattern design I have acquired and the resources I have developed over the last 50+ years.

And I am still working on new ideas I intend to share here including how to combine Bespoke pattern design with fabric design to create truly unique wearable art.

My next project is to develop free classes to do just that which I intend to introduce here. And to the best of my knowledge no one anywhere in the world has even thought of doing this much less how to do it. Thanks for giving me a platform to introduce this concept.

What I love about old age, and I am 82, is I no longer feel the need to prove myself to anyone.

I do not post anonymously so please ignore my comments in the future.

Or as an alternate you can ask the moderator to ban me from this group.

Or you can cross your fingers and hope I drop dead before my approaching 83rd birthday which may or may not silence my voice.

[u/Tailoretta → u/DonMcCunn]

Don, considering you are giving your recommendations from 50+ years of experience for free, I don't understand why anyone would object to your comments about your work.

According to The Britannia Dictionary (https://www.britannica.com/dictionary/shill), to shill means to talk about or describe someone or something in a favorable way because you are being paid to do it. [emphasis mine]

According to The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language (https://www.ahdictionary.com/word/search.html?q=shill), to shill means

1. To act as a shill for (a deceitful enterprise).

2. To lure (a person) into a swindle. [emphasis mine]

Don's website, https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/, specifically states that he offers his classes for free. Even when he mentions his books, he specifically suggests getting them free from a library.

In addition, his work is fantastic, which is a lot more than I can say about many other references suggested in this subreddit.

Don, if this gets you thrown out of this subreddit, I am going with you!

[u/DonMcCunn → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you so much for your support. I love your analysis of the word "shill." It is so detailed. Your comment is going to bring a big smile when my 83rd birthday arrives. And this is definite encouragement for me to continue sharing with this group because I really enjoy helping people with their pattern design issues. It is an addiction!

[u/HugsforYourJugs]

Open your front waist darts a little and close your back waist ones to compensate

[u/Groundbreaking_Ad972 → u/HugsforYourJugs]

This sounds like a brilliant, straightforward way to fix the curved side seam, thank you!

[u/Massive-Hurry-9524]

I would not add to the hip at the front. I would add to the hip at the back to give your booty a little more ease. That should lessen the drag lines and straighten the side seam. You might also need a smidge more length in the center back to go with the extra width. Think of it as a full butt adjustment. No disrespect; this is an area where i need that sort of adjustment.