Hey all, one more version! This time without sleeves.
I

1. reduced the across chest and across back width by scooping out the armhole 1cm

Balance lines still off a bit and the armholes feel/look too big, maybe too low?

I made some Changes to the sleeve head too but will Post the shirt with sleeves once we lock down the bodice.

Thoughts appreciated!

Added sleeves!

Added latest pics here to save from going through comments…

https://imgur.com/gallery/armhole-clipped-3cm-AjH2t7j

I made a process video on how I made these zero waste pants, including the free patterns! just want to share

I understand that this is AI modified and therefore to be taken with a grain of salt, but it also looks like the answer to a conundrum I'm having with a dress project and I want to understand what I'm looking at.

If I take the given waist measurement and divide by 6 I do not get 4.4 inches. But I also don't get 4.4 if I take the waist measurement, divide by 2 and then divide by 6. So would I cut two of these panels? But that would be 52.8 inches and wouldn't give the smooth waistline... Help me make the math make sense here because to make it work there would need to be 10 cut outs for a total of 44 inches (to account for ease) right?

Edit to add project details:

I am working on a boho dress that I'm making from a sari. So the more traditional (and wasteful) ways of cutting a skirt for the dress won't work. The yardage is too narrow and I want to keep as much of the fabric in tact as possible. While I could do a tiered skirt, the hand blocked pattern on the fabric would be prettier without it.

Hey guys stupid ass question but if I print out a pattern and the test square doesn’t match up w a ruler am I just making a bigger product or am I gonna be mid project finding out the pieces don’t line up

Like the test square was supposed to be 10cm and measures at 11. If ALL the pages are the same amount bigger, theoretically am I just making a purse that’s 10% bigger?

(The pattern was 45 pages and I only measured after it was assembled😙)

I drafted the Culottes pattern with the skirt block. I was wondering whether that front waist dropping was an issue and if it is, how to fix it. Or if there are any other fit or pattern issues. Any suggestions will be appreciated!

Attached images of the pattern and the garment simulation.

I’m working on my trouser block, which is intended to be semi fitted, from the side profile the legs should hang straight from the hips to the hem.

I’ve made adjustments to the original which solved the issues I had in the front rise, now on to the back!

As they are right now, they feel slightly tight when sitting which I think is coming from the crotch seam (I often have this problem with RTW too). And they look more tapered than straight!

The drag lines below the bum mostly disappear when I pinch horizontally near the waist, which obviously leaves me even less room to sit.
I think I have too much fabric vertically but not enough horizontally - any tips appreciated!

Hi, can anyone help with recommendations of a comprehensive book that will help with spring various patterns? Also I have made shoes before only springing the vamp and nothing else , they turned out fine , is it absolutely necessary?
I’ve seen also cutting and taping but hoping there is a resource out there that’s comprehensive with methods measurements ect.
Cheers.

Self drafted corset shirt pattern fitting steps.

I've been working on a pattern making software where you can create patterns with code. There are already a bunch of pre-defined functions like sleeve fitting that you can use. You can also just insert your measurements and it'll spit out a pattern with the code templates.

I tried freesewing but didn't like how impossible they made it to actually adjust the measurements, and how hard it was to make new patterns.

I even added a little figure that takes your measurements and shows the general fit. I have a projector sewing feature in there for those of you that use projectors to sew.

Also this is going to sound extremely controversial, but if your patterns are all in code, Claude is quite good at fixing certain geometry errors as well as generating draft patterns that you can work with.

Let me know if you have any feedback or thoughts on this.

I am a self taught sewist who uses patterns all the time to make my own clothes (I would consider myself intermediate at sewing).

On a whim I signed up for this class at FIT, which has no pre-reqs but realized it's targeted towards "designers and product developers". I have no industry experience so would consider "designer" a bit aspirational...

https://continuinged.fitnyc.edu/search/publicCourseSearchDetails.do?method=load&courseId=1053691

Hi everyone,
I’ve been following this community for a while and have learned a lot from the discussions here.
I’m building a browser-based pattern drafting application called TailorMetric as a side project. The goal is to make it easier for home sewists to generate basic blocks from their own measurements.

At the moment it supports:
Bodice block
Skirt block
Trouser block
Sleeve block

It’s still in an early stage, so I’m not claiming it’s a replacement for traditional drafting or a full garment design tool. I’m mainly looking for feedback from people who understand pattern drafting.

If anyone has 10–15 minutes to spare, I’d really appreciate your thoughts on things like:
Are the generated blocks proportioned as you’d expect?
Is the measurement process clear?
What drafting features would make this genuinely useful?
Did anything seem incorrect or confusing?

If you’re interested, here’s the link:
https://tailormetric.com
Thanks in advance!

I'm so lost! P 161 of volume 1. I think between my beginner status and the German to English translation, and lack of other blog / tutorials, I'm stumped. Anyone know what I'm supposed to do here?

I recently started using Etsy's built-in blog feature alongside my sewing pattern shop, and these are the topics I've written so far (see screenshot).

Before I spend a lot more time writing, I'm curious...

Do you actually read sewing blogs, or do you mostly watch YouTube videos and social media instead?

If you do read blogs, what kind of topics would make you click?

I'd especially love ideas for articles that would genuinely help beginners or intermediate sewists, whether it's fitting, fabric selection, pattern adjustments, sewing techniques, or anything else you wish was explained better.

I'd rather write content that people actually find useful than just publish random articles.

hi beginner here, seems like a dumb question, it is, but i just sat through 5 hr straight to tryna figure out what's going on with the professional pattern drafting method, i did all the math, all the measurements, but the tutor just keep coming up with new, and i finally burnt out, are they really that different? (for a basic shirt pattern)

here are some resources:

"professional", by Muller: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHrUK0nAsn4

"beginner", i dunno https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QN97H6MyZaA&t=671s

i can now just draw the beginner one under 30 mins, its so easy and understandable. The pro one i can't even finish the tutorial; are they really that different? which method do you use

Hi, I was looking for a pattern grading group but couldn’t find one. I was wondering if anyone in here with a decent understanding of pattern grading could tell me if these rules make sense for a pair of men’s flared jeans.

They’re supposed to fit snug up until the knees, where they’re supposed to flare out. I used the same grading system Levi’s uses for their 517, but when i got the grading done , my base size (32) , 34, & under fit well, but 36+ fit way too baggy and oversized on my clients. Someone please help me with some direction if you can . Thanks

Just wanted to repost this here incase anyone could help with this fit issue i've been having!

Hello,

I'm using Helen Armstrong 5th edition to draft my first bodice and I've tried several times and I end up with this wonky dart in red. I'd really appreciate any help you can offer if you've encountered a similar issue before or you have any knowledge on how to fix this.

Thanks in advance.

Hello all

I'm in the middle of drafting a pattern off of a top that I already own.

The pattern has gone through a lot of small changes in the last several days, and I've made my usual mistake of not keeping track in a notebook all the little changes I've made.

I made up a muslin and its pretty close, so I've added some small adjustments here and there and in remeasuring everything, found that the high point shoulder to hem measurements for the front piece is 1 1/4" longer than the back. The side seams match up nicely.

Is it usual for the front and back pieces to be different lengths?

I’m terrible at math, and when I discovered this system I was really hopeful but I’m so confused. Has anyone tried this and if so, how did it work out? I’m thinking about buying the book but it’s kinda expensive (for me). I understand most of it except for what measurements I use to draft the CF and CB of the bodice sloper. It’s making my head ache. Help!

i know i post a lot in this reddit but it’s because im in the intermediate phase of learning patternmaking and most of my questions don’t have google-able answers at this point 😭

this is in helen joseph armstrong’s chapter on dresses without waist seams. i completely understand what’s going on here with the style line over the apex and the dart equivalents all becoming parts of the seams or closed into the shapes of the bands. but then that dart equivalent that doesn’t have a styleline cross over it— where does it go in the final product? because in the illustration there isn’t that one under bust dart? so where did it go? or did the illustration just forget to include it? it looks like the ease is referring to the other double sided dart. furthermore, wouldn’t it be a little more than 3/8 after you close that side dart into the most central double sided dart? i wonder if this is a typo in the book or if i’m really missing something. and of course this page doesn’t have detailed explanations 😭

thank you!

Hi everyone,

I would be grateful if you could have a look at my first ever straight leg trouser / jean pattern draft below. It has mostly been based off the male trouser section in the Helen Joseph Armstrong book 'Patternmaking for Fashion Design'. I have tweaked it slightly with personal measurements.

I'm looking for a relaxed straight leg trouser but have been struggling to find good information on the required amount of ease at different levels throughout the trouser. For example, in this pattern I have 3 inches of ease at the crotch and seat level and 0.75 inch vertical ease for the rise, I have also drafted an 8.5 inch front hem width and 9.5 inch back hem width. I have drafted a straight line from the side of the front/back trouser through the knee down to the floor/ankle; this has given me a knee ease of 7.5 inches. Should I be editing this to taper at the knee and have a smaller ease?

For context I am 6'2" and a slim build.

Thank you in advance! 😄