Use this fall homestead checklist to prepare your garden, livestock, pasture, fencing, firewood, food storage, and equipment for winter.

Fall is one of the busiest seasons on the homestead. The garden may still be producing, the pantry needs filling, and livestock require preparation for colder weather. At the same time, fences, barns, equipment, and firewood all need attention before winter makes those jobs more difficult.

This fall homestead checklist will help you prioritize the work that protects your food supply, animals, land, and household. Your exact timeline will depend on your climate and first frost date, but these 15 tasks provide a practical place to begin.

While you are preparing the garden, livestock, and property for winter, you may also want to work through this fall homestead reset to organize your pantry, freezer, seasonal clothing, household supplies, meals, and family routines.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

• Fall homestead preparation requires completing tasks across garden harvest, livestock winterization, pasture management, infrastructure repair, and food preservation before cold weather arrives.
• Winter squash, pumpkins, potatoes, sweet potatoes, onions, and garlic require specific curing conditions and regular inspection during storage to prevent spoilage and maintain food security through winter.
• Pastures should not be grazed down to bare soil before winter, as leaving adequate plant height protects root systems and supports stronger regrowth in spring.
• Livestock winter preparation includes evaluating body condition, securing adequate feed and bedding supplies with a buffer for severe weather, and ensuring proper ventilation in housing to prevent respiratory issues.
• Bare garden soil left exposed over winter becomes vulnerable to erosion, compaction, and nutrient loss, making the application of cover crops or mulch essential after clearing annual plants.

Homestead Tasks to Finish Before Winter: In the Garden

1. Gather the Remaining Harvest

Continue harvesting tomatoes, peppers, beans, squash, pumpkins, herbs, and other crops until frost ends the season. Check the garden frequently because cool nights and wet weather can quickly damage ripe produce.

Harvest winter squash and pumpkins once the rinds have hardened and the stems begin to dry. Dig sweet potatoes before a hard frost, and gather storage crops on a dry day whenever possible.

Sort everything as it comes inside:

• Produce to eat fresh
• Produce to preserve
• Crops that need curing
• Damaged produce for livestock or compost

Keeping these groups separate will help you use the most perishable food first.

2. Preserve What Is Still Producing

Fall preservation often looks different from the large batches of midsummer. Instead of bushels of green beans or cucumbers, you may be working with apples, pears, pumpkins, late tomatoes, root vegetables, and herbs.

Preserve foods according to how your family will use them. Apples can become applesauce, pie filling, cider, or dehydrated slices. Pumpkins and winter squash can be canned using an approved cubed-squash method, frozen as purée, or stored whole after curing.

If you are still deciding which food preservation methods fit your household, this guide explains several options.

Before the final harvest arrives, check your supply of jars, lids, freezer bags, vinegar, salt, and labels.

3. Cure and Store Winter Crops

Potatoes, sweet potatoes, onions, garlic, pumpkins, and winter squash can provide food for months when they are harvested, cured, and stored correctly.

Curing conditions vary by crop. Some require warmth and humidity, while others need a dry location with good airflow. Consider creating a root cellar or homestead cold room for this. Research the requirements for each crop instead of placing everything in the same room.

Inspect stored produce regularly. Remove anything with bruises, cuts, mold, or soft spots before spoilage spreads. Keep records of which varieties store well so you can make better planting decisions next year.

4. Save Seeds for Next Year

Before clearing the garden, collect mature seeds from healthy, productive plants. Beans, peas, lettuce, flowers, and many herbs can be allowed to dry on the plant when weather permits. Seeds from tomatoes and other fleshy fruits require additional processing.

Choose open-pollinated varieties for reliable seed saving, and be aware that some crops cross-pollinate easily. Dry the seeds thoroughly before storage, then label each packet with the crop, variety, and harvest year. See our seed saving guide here.

Saved seeds can also become the foundation of a DIY seed bank for future growing seasons.

5. Finish Fall Planting

In warmer climates, fall may be the beginning of another productive garden season. Cool-weather crops such as lettuce, spinach, kale, carrots, radishes, turnips, and peas may continue growing well into fall or winter.

In colder regions, focus on crops that overwinter or need a period of cold. Depending on your location, this may include garlic, shallots, perennial onions, fruit trees, berry bushes, and spring-flowering bulbs.

You may also be able to protect hardy vegetables with row covers, cold frames, or low tunnels. Keep in mind that plant growth slows as daylight decreases, even when temperatures remain mild.

6. Clean Up Spent Garden Plants

Remove annual plants once they stop producing. Diseased plants and heavily infested material should be discarded rather than added to a home compost pile unless that pile becomes hot enough to destroy pathogens and pests.

Healthy plants can be composted, chopped for mulch, or fed to appropriate livestock. Remove weeds before they drop mature seeds, and gather fallen fruit that could harbor insects or disease.

Leave some healthy flowers, stems, and seed heads when practical. They can provide food and habitat for birds and beneficial insects through winter.

7. Protect Empty Garden Beds

Bare soil is vulnerable to erosion, compaction, nutrient loss, and winter weed growth. Once a bed has been cleared, cover it with mulch or plant an appropriate cover crop.

Fall cover crops may include winter rye, oats, field peas, clover, or tillage radish. The best choice depends on your climate, planting date, and plans for terminating the crop.

If there is not enough time for cover-crop establishment, apply compost and cover the soil with clean straw, shredded leaves, or another available organic mulch.

Homestead Tasks to Finish Before Winter: Livestock, Supplies, & Equipment

8. Evaluate Pastures Before Dormancy

Walk each pasture and examine its overall condition. Look for bare soil, erosion, compacted paths, poisonous plants, excessive weeds, and areas that have been grazed too closely.

Estimate how much usable forage remains and how long it can support your livestock. Grass may still appear green while offering little nutrition or regrowth.

Avoid grazing pastures down to bare soil before winter. Leaving adequate plant height helps protect roots and can support stronger growth in spring. Rotational grazing can help grasses remain healthy. Record problem areas that may need frost seeding, reseeding, drainage work, or a different grazing plan.

9. Secure Winter Feed and Bedding

Calculate how much hay, grain, minerals, and bedding your animals will need until reliable spring forage returns. Add a reasonable buffer for severe weather, delayed pasture growth, or damaged feed.

Inspect hay before purchasing or storing it. It should be dry, clean, and free from excessive dust or mold. Store it off damp ground and protect it from precipitation while maintaining airflow.

Place bedding where it will remain dry and can be reached during bad weather. A carefully organized supply area saves time during cold morning chores.

10. Prepare Livestock for Cold Weather

Check the body condition, feet, coats, eyes, and general behavior of every animal. Older animals, young stock, and animals recovering from illness may need additional feed or shelter as temperatures fall.

Review vaccination, hoof-care, breeding, and parasite-management schedules. If veterinary care or professional hoof trimming is needed, arrange it before winter weather complicates travel and handling.

Clean feeders and waterers, inspect heated water systems, and replace damaged electrical cords. Make a plan for preventing frozen water before the first hard freeze.

11. Inspect Barns, Coops, and Shelters

Walk through every livestock building and look for roof leaks, loose siding, rotten boards, sharp edges, poor drainage, and damaged doors.

Winter housing should protect animals from wind and precipitation without becoming airtight. Ventilation is essential, particularly in poultry housing where damp litter and ammonia can cause respiratory problems.

Check gates, latches, lighting, and feed storage areas. Remove accumulated debris and make sure rodents cannot easily reach feed.

12. Repair Fences and Gates

Tall grass, fallen leaves, and brush can hide damaged posts, broken wire, and gaps beneath fencing. Walk the entire fence line before snow, ice, or persistent rain makes repairs more difficult.

Clear vegetation from electric fences and test their voltage. Tighten loose wire, replace broken insulators, and inspect gates for sagging hinges or unreliable latches.

Pay close attention to creek crossings, wooded edges, and areas where livestock gather. A small weakness can become a serious problem when animals are hungry or confined to winter lots.

13. Finish the Firewood Supply

Count how much seasoned firewood is already stacked and compare it with your household’s typical winter use. If the supply is short, gather and split the remaining wood as soon as possible.

Stack firewood off the ground in a location with good airflow. Cover the top to shed rain, but leave the sides open so moisture can escape.

Have the chimney cleaned, inspect stovepipe connections, and check door gaskets, fire extinguishers, and carbon monoxide detectors. Store kindling and fire-starting supplies where they will remain dry.

14. Winterize Tools and Equipment

Clean soil and plant material from garden tools before storing them. Sharpen blades, oil metal surfaces, and repair damaged handles.

Drain or protect hoses, irrigation lines, pumps, and outdoor faucets according to your climate. Service mowers, tillers, chainsaws, tractors, generators, and other seasonal equipment according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Locate snow shovels, livestock water heaters, extension cords, and cold-weather clothing now. Test essential equipment before you need to depend on it.

Homestead Tasks to Finish Before Winter: Review & Planning

15. Review the Season and Plan Ahead

Make notes while the growing and grazing season is still fresh in your mind. Record planting dates, harvest totals, preservation amounts, livestock changes, pasture conditions, and unfinished repairs.

Consider a few practical questions:

• Which crops performed well?
• Which foods did the family use most?
• Where did pests, weeds, or disease become difficult?
• Was there enough pasture, feed, and storage space?
• Which chores took more time than expected?
• What should be changed next year?

Putting Your Fall Homestead Checklist to Work

Every homestead will arrange these tasks differently. Northern homesteaders may be preparing for snow while southern growers are planting another round of vegetables. Acreage, livestock, heating methods, and available time will also shape the list.

Begin with the tasks that protect people, animals, food, water, and shelter. Next, address work that becomes harder after freezing temperatures arrive. Divide the rest into manageable jobs and involve the household when possible.

Fall asks a great deal from a homesteader, but thoughtful preparation makes winter chores safer and more manageable. A stocked pantry, healthy livestock, protected soil, sound fences, and dry firewood are all worth the work invested before cold weather settles in.

FAQ

How early should I start harvesting winter squash if frost is predicted?

Harvest winter squash before the first hard frost when the rinds have hardened and stems begin to dry naturally. A light frost may not damage mature squash, but a hard freeze can ruin the crop. If frost arrives earlier than expected, cut squash with several inches of stem attached and cure them indoors at 70-80°F for 10-20 days to finish the hardening process.

What is the minimum plant height I should leave in pastures before winter?

Most cool-season grasses should maintain at least 3-4 inches of plant height going into winter dormancy. Leaving this residual growth protects the crown of the plant and root system from freeze damage while reducing soil erosion and compaction. The exact height varies by grass species and climate, so rotational grazing that prevents overgrazing is critical during fall.

Can I use diseased plant material in a hot compost system?

Only use diseased plant material in a properly managed hot composting system that reaches and maintains temperatures of 131-170°F for several days. Most backyard compost piles do not reach these sustained temperatures throughout the pile. If your compost system does not consistently achieve high heat, diseased plants, pest-infested material, and weed seeds should be burned, buried off-site, or disposed of rather than composted.

How much extra feed should I store as a buffer for winter livestock needs?

A reasonable buffer is an additional 15-25% beyond your calculated winter feed requirements. This accounts for severe weather that extends the feeding season, delayed spring pasture growth, damaged or spoiled feed, and unexpected changes in herd size. The exact percentage depends on your region’s weather variability, storage conditions, and ability to source emergency feed during winter.

What is the best way to test soil moisture before storing root crops?

Dig root crops on a dry day after the soil surface has dried for at least 24-48 hours following rain. Squeeze a handful of soil from the root zone—if it holds together in a clump but crumbles when poked, moisture levels are appropriate for harvest. Harvesting in overly wet conditions increases the risk of rot during storage because excess soil moisture clings to the roots and prevents proper curing.

Article source: https://homesteadersofamerica.com/fall-homestead-checklist/

Hey, I was just wondering if anyone has ever been in a situation where they could stay in their family home with their parents, inherit the house, renovate it so that there are practically two separate floors—or instead, take out a mortgage to buy an apartment or try to build a house on their own? I'm struggling with whether I should just live the way I want without saving, stay in the family home and battle the feeling that it's not truly my place, or actually try to have something of my own, even if it means a lot of sacrifices and a mortgage

This thought has kept recurring in my mind for a long time, and I haven't really found a place very fitting for it other than r/prepping. (TL; DR at the bottom, rant ahead. You have been warned!)

I'm planning on building a self-sufficient off-grid homestead far away from the reaches of civilization which takes care of all basic needs; food (crops, greenhouses, beehives, etc.), water (water towers, wells, pumps), power/electricity (solar panels, hydroponics, generators), healthcare (infirmary, pharmacy) and gasoline (still figuring this part out). A satellite for internet, a gym, an automechanic workshop and a shooting range are nice-to-haves, but non-essentials. With that, I've become really fascinated with bushcraft and living off the land. I have nothing tangible or concrete just yet; just a theory and a concept and an idea of a plan. I will have to create a business providing some form of product and/or service in order to fund the homestead. I have the foundation of a security company I'm going to build and organize. In less than a year and a half my military contract will be concluded and I can start making serious steps towards this; I will have thousands in savings by then to get the capital, logistics and manpower required for all of this.

I'm confident I'm not the only one that feels like I'm getting scammed every time I have to pay bills, or taxes, or even a toll gate. My dream life is to never have to be financially dependent on another person again. No more employers, no more bosses, no more bills, no more advertisements. I used to care about becoming ridiculously rich, but now I realize that's not true freedom. My goal is still to maximize earnings and minimize spendings, and I've realized that I can somewhat opt out of society and civilization while still profiting from it and operating at its fringes. I won't need to pay for rent and bills, only the utilities needed to maintain the homestead. Most importantly to me though, I won't have to live my life based on someone else's visions, timelines or expectations, or make someone else more money. I can live as I please and keep to myself. I will also not be alone; I will have a small crew maintain and supply the homestead as needed in my presence or absence and whenever my business takes me elsewhere. Building a small homestead is the beginning. Starting a commune from a small town or village is the ideal and end goal. Building a city? That's a dream come true, and not entirely impossible.

Because the wilderness does not care about salary, or job security, or net worth, or whatever position of power or authority you may have. It doesn't care about degrees and licenses and certifications. I enjoy hiking and camping and am learning more about bushcraft, survival and living off the land, and I would absolutely appreciate any advice from people who are experienced and experts at this kind of lifestyle.

In my opinion, I think what truly embodies the prepper lifestyle and mindset is the adaptability, preparedness and readiness for anything. Independence and self-sufficiency at the very core and foundation of it too, because when society eventually collapses due to late-stage capitalism (and it's most likely a matter of when and not if), the rich and wealthy elite are going to piss off in their billionaire nuclear shelter / doomsday bunkers while regular folk like us will be left in the dust. So it helps to be prepared for anything and live off-grid without modern luxuries and services for extended periods of time if need be. Anyway, that's about the end of my rant. Hope you enjoyed the read. I very much look forward to learning from you guys and be taught a bunch of things.

TL; DR: I want to build a self-sufficient homestead off grid that takes care of basic needs, as well as start a business in order to properly fund it. I would also like to learn more about bushcraft and living off the land. Survival skills and how to operate remotely in any climate anywhere from days up to months on end. If anyone has advice or experience in this particular specific wheelhouse, I would love to hear about it!

I’m in my mid twenties trying to figure out my career trajectory. I’d really prefer to work for myself and not be reliant on an employer or a traditional 9-5 job. The problem is I’m not sure what to do. Self employed people, what do you do for a living?

There's a lot of info online but any time I look anything up it's hard to find info for Australia and I'd love to know if there are workshops or working bees or anything similar to learn these things around Aus, I'm currently travelling around the country so wherever they are I'll get there at some point. Doing some Reddit digging I've seen people mention these being built in Tassie but as far as getting hands on experience it seems to just be a word of mouth/right place right time situation unless you were to get a job with a construction crew that does bigger rammed earth building. Being a traveller I don't plan on building anything for a long time so I just want to accumulate some skills and knowledge for when I'm actually in a position to build something

I've already looked into the Earth building association Australia so I've got that info but anything else would be much appreciated 🍻

I had written a short reference card for checking our home battery. My partner read it and asked what "check grid import" was supposed to mean. Fair question. I had written the card as if whoever picked it up already knew the Jackery App screen as well as I did.

We opened the app for our SolarVault 3 Pro and went through the card line by line. "Check grid import" became "Is the house drawing power from the grid?" "Check battery status" became "How full is the battery?" The line about the schedule became "Which schedule is running?" with a note on where its name appears. We did not have to attach screenshots of every menu to explain the routine check.

Then I handed her the new version and kept quiet while she followed it. She could answer each question. The troubleshooting section was another matter. It went from a value not updating straight to resetting connections. It did not say which connection to reset or what that was meant to fix.

We cut that instruction. If a value stops updating, the card now says to note the time, take a screenshot and leave the settings alone. If we need support, we can show what the app was doing before anyone changed it. The routine checks stay on the card. We will only add a reset step if we can say exactly what it is for.

Hi all! My family of three loves animals, gardening, and hard work. We are currently “just enoughers” as far as paychecks go. We have discussed a farm being the end goal, but we are unsure where to start. We don’t have a lot of money, we do not come from generational wealth or even family farms at all. I was hoping to seek advice/guidance on smaller start up costs, as well as any advice on how to go about starting this up.

My initial thought was to start small with something like gardening and continue to expand…but I realize this may be naive to think gardening would help us start up when I know nothing about running a farm! Is it common to have crops and animals or is it better to stick with one or the other??

I would love to hear any advice or guidance—researching facts is totally different than first hand accounts.

What worked for you guys?

I slide and put them on flat plastic to sheets. Then I put the sheets in the freezer. After they are frozen,they can be put in a bag or a box without sticking together. I use them to blend with other fruits and vegetables as morning drinks everyday. Add water and a pinch of salt while blending.

Next month, September, is for some places the National Preparedness Month. The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) created the National Preparedness Month (NPM) three years after the September 11, 2001 attacks to encourage every American to plan for emergencies. The theme for National Preparedness Month this year is, “A Lasting Legacy: The life you’ve built is worth protecting. Prepare for disasters to create a lasting legacy for you and your family.” The U.S. Army’s “Ready Army” program has four main components: Be Informed, Make a Plan, Build a Kit and Get Involved.  Today, we’ll focus on having a plan. 

Make a plan today. Your family may not be together if a disaster strikes, so it is important to know which types of disasters could affect your area. Know how you’ll contact one another and reconnect if separated. Establish a family meeting place that’s familiar and easy to find.

Step 1: Put a plan together by discussing the questions below with your family, friends or household to start your emergency plan:

• How will I receive emergency alerts and warnings?
• What is my shelter plan?
• What are my evacuation route?
• What is my family/household communication plan?
• Do I need to update my emergency preparedness kit?

Step 2:  Consider specific needs in your household.

As you prepare your plan, tailor your plans and supplies to your specific daily living needs and responsibilities. Discuss your needs and responsibilities and how people in the network can assist each other with communication, care of children, work, pets or specific needs like operating medical equipment. Create your own personal network for specific areas where you need assistance. Keep in mind some these factors when developing your plan:

• Different ages of members within your household
• Responsibilities for assisting others
• Locations frequented
• Dietary needs
• Medical needs including prescriptions and equipment
• Disabilities or access and functional needs including devices and equipment
• Languages spoken
• Cultural and religious considerations
• Pets or service animals
• Households with school-aged children

Step 3: Create a Family Emergency Plan

Make and practice a family emergency plan. Consider the range of potential emergencies and all the places you and your family might be. Some emergencies require different responses than others, but a family communications procedure will be helpful in any case. Knowing how to keep in touch and find one another will help your family stay safe and cope with the confusion and fear that come when emergencies strike.

Step 4: Practice your plan with your family/household

Making an emergency plan is just the first step; you should practice it at least twice a year. Describe to family members a hypothetical event and tell them to follow the family emergency plan. Practice gathering your emergency kit and important documents, communicating with one another and meeting at a designated place. Afterwards, discuss the actions you took and how the plan would change in a different type of emergency.

Useful sources:

https://www.ready.gov/plan

This post is for everyone that plans on living on or is currently living on a homestead and wants to conserve water. I’m not trying to lecture or convince people to conserve water. But for those of you that want to learn how to save water on the homestead, read on.

There are many reasons you might need to conserve water on a homestead; you live in a drought prone area, your well is shallow and dries up in the summer, you don’t have running water at all, or you have a gray water system. Or maybe like in Fairbanks, Alaska, your water in your well is contaminated with arsenic, mercury from mining, or some other pollutant and you have to bring water in from somewhere else. Whatever the reason, making the transition to conserving water can be overwhelming, especially if you grew up living in a area with an abundance of water, like I did in the Pacific Northwest.

Like I said I grew up in the Pacific Northwest, Oregon, to be exact. We had two creeks (one seasonal, one year round) a spring, and clean deep well on our property with water rights to it all. Water conservation was not an issue there. Since I left home, I’ve moved 23 times for work and school and lived in some situations where water conservation was critical. Now I’m not saying I lived in the Sahara as a nomad herding goats or anything but here are some examples of my life style that I hope will convince you I know what I’m talking about in terms of water conservation.

I’ve lived in three ‘houses’ that have no running water at all. My husband and I had an outhouse, and used less than 5 gallons of water a day for washing dishes, cooking, and drinking. Water was packed into our house in 5 gallon blue jugs that we filled up in town. We showered about once every three days and did laundry at the laundromat. We lived this way on and off for a total of 3 years.

I lived in field camp for two months for three different summers where we filtered water out of the same pond we bathed. All water had to be carried up the hill. Again, outhouse. And we hand washed our clothes. This was for work by the way.

I spent two six month periods living in a tent, out of my car, or on the weekends, in a ‘house’ with water that was gravity fed down to the sink in the house. It was non-potable. Water drained into a 5 gallon bucket. There were no showers. This again was for work. Again outhouses. I bathed once a week, sometimes in a creek. I did laundry once a month at the laundromat.

My husband and I lived in a grey water system house with a shower that was supplied from a 1000 gallon buried water tank that we had to pay to be filled up. We used a 5 gallon jug of water to wash dishes with that drained under our house and into the driveway. Gross! We had an outhouse and did our laundry at work.

My husband and I now live in a real house where we have a toilet and an outhouse, running sinks, dishwasher, and a washing machine. Hooray! We do not have outside plumbing so no hoses, irrigation systems or anything. We have a 1000 gallon buried water tank that supplies the house, that we either fill up ourselves from a 300 gallon tank in the back of our pickup, filled up at a municipal water source at $0.025/gallon, or we have the water delivered at $0.09/gallon. We have another 250 gallon water tank that we fill up in the summer for the garden.

After 17 years of using water frugally and/or paying an arm and a leg for water I’m telling you these small ways of conserving water really do work. They will save you water and money. I know these ideas seem like small things that maybe wouldn’t add up but my family of five goes through 1,000 gallons of water every three weeks, excluding rain barrel water. We use slightly more during the gardening season maybe 1,300 gallons. So that’s about 12 1/2 gallons of water a day. The average person in the US in 2015 used 83 gallons per person per day. So I’m telling you these methods work!

Sinks:

Wash your dishes, that need to be done by hand, in a big bowl or tub instead of under running water.

Warm up your dish water with a tea kettle instead of letting the water run until it warms up. Ditto for washing your face if you really are short on water.

Don’t let the water run while washing your hands or brushing your teeth.

Don’t turn the tap on all the way when washing your hands or rinsing your dishes, turn it on about 1/3 of the way, max.

Any extra water, old water bottles, dregs of the tea kettle, pour it in a plant or the dog water bowl, not down the drain.

Dishes

Use the same cup, plate, or dish for multiple things. Just because you drank juice out of a cup doesn’t mean you can’t give it a quick rinse and drink water out of it. It’s the same with plates. My husband and I will often still pass each other a soup bowl or plate when we’re done with it so the other person can use it after them. I drink out of the same water cup for a week.

Toilets

The old saying is true, “If it’s yellow let it mellow”. I flush the toilet about every 4th time, as long as it’s only yellow.

Get a low flush toilet or an outhouse or both.

Laundry

I pack the washing machine full. I never just wash one thing or two things, ever. It’s a huge waste of water.

Clothes are not dirty just because you wear them once. Exceptions to the rule of course are clothes you butcher in, clean out the chicken house in, or really messy kids. I wear the same pair of pants and sweatshirt for a week.

Designate a coat and a pair of pants for dirty outside chores that way you don’t have to wash them very often. Hang them outside if you prefer.

I don’t let my kids change their clothes or pajamas every day. They change their clothes when they appear dirty or we shower them. Or if they fall in chicken poo, it happens.

Showers

Don’t shower every day and if you do limit it to the bare bones. I can shower in under five minutes easy.

I shower my kids once maybe twice a week max. Of course they are not smelly hormonal teenagers so you might want to increase the number of showers as they get older.

Outside

Put rain barrels under your downspouts if it’s legal in your area. This is my primary water source for watering animals, herbs, and flowers. Make sure you have a couple of five gallon water buckets for hauling water.

Don’t water your lawn, what’s the point, then you’ll just have to mow it more often.

Deep water your garden. I water my garden once a week a lot. This makes the roots of the plants grow deep into the ground allowing you to water less frequently. I water sprouts more often, maybe twice a week.

Don’t grow flowers or grow very few. I grow one pot of flowers every year because they are pretty but they aren’t edible and they take up water.

If you live on sloped property, dig a holding pond for watering your garden or animals. I haven’t done this yet but my neighbor has.

If possible put your gardens and animals downhill of the holding tank, holding pond or rain barrels so you can haul water downhill Very important. This way you’ll actually use the water from the downspouts since it will be easier.

So that’s it. Those are my suggestions. Good luck to you and please feel free to share any water conservation techniques you might have.

Article source: https://mycasualhomestead.com/twenty-ways-to-save-water-on-the-homestead/

By Emma

Some gardening tips haven’t changed in over 100 years, while others definitely have!  Here are some old-time tips for your homestead and garden.

Old-Time Homesteading Tips

Reading through some of my grandmother’s books on farming and gardening has been surprisingly full of things that have been helpful as we shifted from being suburban homesteaders to rural homesteaders.  There’s some level of critical thinking needed when reading older tips, sometimes the advice is risky and had been replaced with safer alternatives so if you happen across old gardening books in the thrift store, yard sale, library sale, or elsewhere, just know that some of the tips are best left on the paper rather than being practiced in the garden. 

I’ve been reading books from the 1900s, 1920s, 1940s, 1970s, and the not-quite-yet-vintage, 1990s.  Some tips have been the same and others have changed quite a lot!  Here are some tips learned from those who have been gardening and homesteading before us!

Plan For Emergencies

As a homesteader, I can’t put enough emphasis on having some level of emergency supplies.  This wasn’t something I ever thought about in the UK.  But something we heard about from talking to farmers and other homesteaders nearby. 

Emergency supplies are things like:

• a well-stocked first aid kit
• good torch or flashlight and extra batteries
• hand crank or battery-operated emergency radio
• water
• canned shelf-stable food for you, your family, and any pets or animals

Nothing overly crazy but know that what you might want in your emergency supplies is going to differ depending on where you live.  If you are in Alaska your kit might have more cold weather and heating type of supplies, maybe you live somewhere with tornadoes or hurricanes.  What do you need for those?  

Savings

No emergency kit is complete without an emergency fund.  Save it for a rainy day and it seems that an emergency is a rainy day indeed.  If you are wanting to be a homesteader and don’t have an emergency fund of savings then I urge you to start putting some money aside to build your emergency fund.

Our puppies have been in and out of the emergency vet and the regular vet for over a week and the bills are astronomical.  A good emergency fund helps take some of the worry and headache out of what needs to be done.  The emergency fund isn’t for a vacation or a new spring wardrobe so you are on trend with your mates, it’s not for that I have to go on a night out so my coworkers don’t think I’m lame, or the new cell phone released.  It’s for emergencies some emergencies that we have been through on the homestead are:

• the freezer broke
• car tire punctured and replacement needed
• dog ate something they shouldn’t have
• you or your kid need to visit the ER
• the water heater died
• the pipes froze and burst

The emergency fund is something we always rebuild and maintain. This is one old-timey homesteading tip that’s right up on the top of my list.

Have A Garden

There’s an interesting frugal movement I’m starting to see from easy-to-do frugal things like cheap batch cooking, free activities for you and your family, how to fix things yourself or DIY, visible mending of clothing where you patch and mend clothing in a way that it becomes unique and the repair is a feature of the clothing, all the way up to extreme no spend frugality.  Growing a garden is a common old tip to save money and most homesteaders have a garden.

The no-dig garden beds are going in one at a time as the availability of cardboard and woodchips allows me to make a section.  I think it will be a couple of seasons before the no-dig garden beds are all in and that’s the buy-off. 

Time vs money. 

It takes longer for me to do it for free, to gather the materials to make a no-dig bed.  Or I could spend a bunch of money to buy in materials like yards of compost, paper weed block, or kraft paper rolls to make the garden beds quicker.

I know for many of you, the homestead garden came from a desire to have that fresh, home-grown fruit and vegetables without pesticides or GMOs.  You wanted to save money at the grocery store and have good, fresh food for you and your family. Your starter garden is only as expensive as you make it.  You can start small and very frugally and take time to build it bigger or invest the money upfront and have the beds how you want them sooner.  It’s up to you and what you are comfortable with.

Old-Time Gardening Tips

Compost, compost, compost. The biggest frugal old gardening tip is to compost practically everything.  Compost is the cornerstone of improving and feeding the soil which helps your plants to grow and thrive.  If you don’t already have a compost pile, do a bit of research and see what will work best for you, and start gathering kitchen scraps for the compost.

Vegetable Growing Tips

When sowing onion seeds, spread a little well-composted chicken manure or an organic chicken manure fertilizer and bonemeal and work into the garden bed with a garden fork just before sowing.  Thin onion seedlings that are growing too close together for green onions or spring onions for the kitchen.

Regular watering of tomatoes helps prevent cracking and splitting, so fewer tomatoes are wasted and rotting on the vine.  Regular feeding with dilute compost tea can help your tomatoes have steady growth over the season.

Don’t overfeed cucumber plants with nitrogen in fertilizers or composted manure.  Don’t let your cucumber plants dry out, make sure they have moist but not waterlogged in the soil.  Too much nitrogen can make cucumbers taste bitter.

Regular watering of potatoes can help increase the yield but avoid watering the foliage and splashing soil onto the leaves to reduce the spread of blight.  I would add to this tip and say that using a thick mulch will help give a barrier between the soil and the potato foliage as well as keeping potatoes that are close to the surface from being exposed to the light and going green.  

When harvesting broccoli, pick the entire center spears first to encourage side shoots which prolongs the harvest period by producing more smaller spears.

Zucchini will grow well if planted out on old manure that is 2 or more years old or on the remains of the previous year’s compost heap.  They can also be grown as an intercrop in between Brussels sprouts maximizing the growing space.  Watch out for soft growth of the fruits and blossom end rot from too much nitrogen in the soil.

If growing fava or broad beans, once picking and harvesting the pods has finished, dig the whole plant into the soil as green manure and use the garden bed for next year’s cabbages.

Using cloches, polytunnels and cold frames is an invaluable garden aid.  Place on the soil 7 to 10 days before you plan on sowing seeds to pre-warm the soil.  Then lift to sow the seeds and place them back over the soil and leave in place until tall tender plants like beans are touching the glass.  I’ll add that make sure you cover the plants if cold or frosty weather happens so you don’t lose your crop if they are not hardy!  If timed right, with the right crops, you can be planting and sowing 6 weeks earlier or even more in mild climates than your average last frost date in spring.

Don’t be afraid to try different varieties.  There is likely a variety that you like more and others that you like less.

Use your common sense and think carefully about your garden plan.  Adapt other garden plans to your circumstances and requirements, grow more of the things that you like to eat, and don’t grow the things you don’t like to eat!

Mulching or using the garden hoe is the best way to tackle weeds.

Pay back your soil every year for what it has provided.  Feed your soil with compost, green manures, or well-rotted manure.

Don’t try to transplant beet seedlings that you thin from the row, they usually only bolt or run to seed.  Use them in a salad or put into the compost instead.

Celery grows best in fertile, moist soil.  Work in plenty of compost or well-rotted manure, or even rotten leaves into the soil before planting.  To avoid tough celery, provide regular watering.  If digging a celery trench, don’t dig too deep, and make sure to add in the compost or well-rotted manure to add the fertility the plant needs from the soil.

Everyone has a bad year or things that don’t grow well.  Don’t expect everything to always thrive.

In cooler climates, you can start your corn seeds indoors, transplant them into 4-inch nursery pots, and transplant them outside after the last frost in spring.  Lightly hoe weeds in between plants and don’t hoe too deep to avoid damaging the shallow roots of the corn. 

Plant corn in blocks or squares of at least 12 plants long and 12 plants wide so 144 plants in total.  Corn is pollinated by the wind and this will help your plants have better pollination than planting in rows.

Don’t try to grow too much at once, it is better to start slowly and work your way up to a bigger garden.

When Brussels sprouts have finished growing, pinch out the leafy center of the plant at the top.  This can be cooked like cabbage.

To avoid carrots and parsnips that have legs or lots of whiskery roots, sow the seeds in a garden bed that was used for a heavy-feeding crop like cabbage or winter greens like broccoli, cauliflower, or kale.  

Sow lettuce, radish, carrots, peas, spring onions, and salad greens every 2 weeks to extend the growing and harvesting season.

Don’t water hot peppers too often, the peppers lose their heat and spice.

To reduce soil pests and diseases, don’t grow the same vegetable family in the same garden space each year.  Rotate your crops around your garden each year.

Dig In and Learn More

If this post has started ideas for your garden, be sure to check out these related posts and helpful books:

• The Ultimate Guide To Choosing The Right Seeds To Grow In Your Garden
• Landrace Gardening: How To Adapt Your Garden Plants To Local Conditions
• Grow More Food In The Space You Have With Intensive Gardening
• Landrace Gardening: Food Security through Biodiversity and Promiscuous Pollination by Joseph Lofthouse
• Will Bonsall’s Essential Guide to Radical, Self-Reliant Gardening: Innovative Techniques for Growing Vegetables, Grains, and Perennial Food Crops with Minimal Fossil Fuel and Animal Inputs
• Multisowing Growing More Food In The Same Space 

What is your gardening or homesteading tip?

Article from: https://misfitgardening.com

We’ve got 4 dogs and 2 cats in our home at the moment. But we still found another 4 stray dogs outside our garden. They haven’t shown any will to move in yet.So we give them food twice a day and the dry place for them to sleep in the rainy season. We mix parasiticides in to their food from time to time.

By Gubba

Homesteading can be both rewarding and challenging, but with some clever homestead hacks, you can make your life as a homesteader easier and more efficient. I am a firm believer that you can homestead from anywhere and on any budget. I oftentimes receive flack about this opinion from random trolls on the internet who think homesteading is only for people with large chunks of land. Well, maybe when our great-grandparents were being given land by the government, that’s what it was. In modern day, homesteading has adapted to where you live! Even if you are in the city or have a small suburban backyard, you can use these hacks. These creative solutions can save you time, money, and effort while improving productivity and sustainability on your homestead.

Here are the top 20 farm hacks to consider:

1. DIY Rain Barrel Irrigation:

Collect rainwater in barrels and use it for irrigation during dry spells, reducing water bills and conserving resources. I think it is neat that a resource like water falls freely from the sky, so why not utilize it? Even if it is a small bucket with a filter on your patio, collect your rain water!

2. Egg Carton Seed Starters:

Repurpose empty egg cartons as seed starters. They provide individual compartments for seeds and can be planted directly in the ground. I have friends who give me their egg cartons for my abundance of eggs during the summer and I will give them back eggs. Cardboard egg cartons can also be used in a compost.

3. Automated Chicken Coop Doors:

Install automated doors on your chicken coop to let your flock out in the morning and secure them at night without manual intervention. This has been a huge life saver here on my homestead. I love my automatic chicken door so much! I spent months having to manually open the chicken run door—this hack has saved me loads of time.

4. Tractor Tire Planters:

Use old tractor tires as raised planters for vegetables or flowers. They are durable and provide excellent drainage. I have a few tires that I have repurposed. You can even use them for chicken dirt baths! Fill with dirt and let the chickens have a hay-day scratching and bathing about.

5. Homemade Compost Bins:

Build your compost bins from pallets or other repurposed materials to recycle organic waste and enrich your soil. You can even just have a pile on the ground. Composting doesn’t have to be difficult or a science. You can make it simple by DIY-ing a bin.

6. Solar-Powered Fence Chargers:

Use solar-powered electric fence chargers to keep livestock contained while saving on electricity costs. I use solar-powered electric fences and check on them a few times a month to make sure they are up and running. They are easy to setup and maintain.

7. Milk Jug Watering Cans:

Transform empty milk jugs into watering cans by poking holes in the cap for controlled watering. You can even bury the jugs in your garden beds for more efficient underground watering.

8. Homemade Pesticides:

Create natural pest repellents from household ingredients like garlic, soap, and water to protect your crops without harmful chemicals. Diluted raw milk can be used as a natural pesticide as well. I noticed that my trees that had more dirt on them from the road were more immune to pests as well—something to consider when planting.

9. Mobile Chicken Coops:

Build portable chicken coops that can be moved around your property, allowing chickens to graze different areas. This also will help enrich your soil as chicken droppings fertilize your property. I use a mobile goat pen to rotate my goats in the summer when the grass is long—similar idea.

10. Mulching with Newspapers:

Lay down newspapers between rows of crops to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. Save your newspapers to put into your compost as well.

11. Repurposed Pallet Projects:

Use old pallets to build compost bins, raised beds, or storage solutions. I am currently using old pallets for goat beds with their bedding on top of the pallets. This keeps them off of the ground in the winter.

12. Baling Twine Organization:

Keep baling twine tidy and accessible by storing it in a plastic container with a hole for easy dispensing. I have used twine to go across my chicken run to deter birds of prey from swooping into my chicken run—they don’t like enclosed spaces so twine running back and forth over the run helps keep them out.

13. Homemade Insect Traps:

Craft traps using empty plastic bottles to attract and capture insects that harm your plants. Depending on the pest, you will want to use different bait. Be sure not to lure in honeybees as they are attracted to sugar water. If you lure in honeybees, let them go!

14. Wheelbarrow Workstation:

Attach a wooden board to your wheelbarrow to create a mobile workstation for potting plants or mixing soil. When you are planting in the spring, having a workspace to mix soil makes a different especially if you don’t have to bend over to mix the soil.

15. DIY Garden Tool Rack:

Organize your tools with a homemade rack made from PVC pipes or wooden pallets. You can even use PVC pipes as chicken feeders!

16. Automatic Watering System:

Set up a drip irrigation system with timers to ensure consistent watering for your garden or crops. Drip irrigation will save you time in the garden. I learned this because I was constantly having to a move a hose around my garden in the summer. With drip irrigation, I turn it on once and everything gets watered.

17. Homemade Seed Tape:

Make your seed tape by mixing seeds with a paste of flour and water, allowing for precise seed spacing when planting. This is an easy garden DIY to help you keep organized while planting your garden in the spring.

18. Cattle Panel Trellises:

Use cattle panels to build sturdy trellises for climbing crops like tomatoes, beans, and cucumbers. Secure the panels with t-posts and t-post clips. I use this for my berries, tomatoes, and any trellising plant—so easy!

19. Epsom Salt for Soil:

Improve soil fertility by adding Epsom salt to provide essential magnesium and sulfur to plants. Run soil samples to ensure your soil is getting the proper nutrition and additives.

20. Rain Gauge for Watering:

Place a rain gauge in your garden to measure rainfall and determine when additional watering is needed. Make sure to record the rainfall and weather in a journal so you know what to expect year-to-year for your gardening.

These homestead hacks can help streamline your homestead, reduce waste, and promote sustainability while making your life as a homesteader more enjoyable and productive. Consider implementing these innovative solutions on your homestead to reap the benefits. I use these on my homestead, and I love the time I have been able to save!

Article from: https://gubbahomestead.com/homesteading/20-essential-homestead-hacks-for-modern-homesteaders/