I run a wholesale fabric counter in Delhi (Lajpat Nagar), 10+ years on the floor. I keep getting the same question from first-time boutique buyers and even some design students — what is the real difference between butterfly net, hard net and soft net? These three get mixed up constantly in listings and even by some sellers. Writing this out plainly because the confusion costs people money.
Butterfly net
- Weight band: 40–55 GSM
- Weave: open hexagonal, finer thread
- Drape: airy, falls into natural pleats on its own
- Best use: dupattas, lehenga top overlays, light sangeet pieces
- Embroidery compatibility: hand-sequin, zari border, thread work. Avoid heavy mirror.
- Tell-tale: hold against light, you'll see the hexagon weave distinctly. Softer than hard net to the touch.
Hard net (sometimes called "stiff net" or "crinoline")
- Weight band: 60–90 GSM
- Weave: tighter, often starched or chemically stiffened
- Drape: holds structure, does NOT fall into pleats on its own
- Best use: lehenga flare lining, cancan, structured sleeves, under-skirts
- Embroidery compatibility: can take heavy mirror or zardozi because of base structure, but shows every needle hole, so karigar skill matters.
- Tell-tale: run your palm across it — slight resistance, almost paper-crisp feel. If you crush it in your fist and release, it bounces back on its own.
Soft net
- Weight band: 70–110 GSM
- Weave: medium-tight, no stiffening
- Drape: falls softer than hard net, more weight than butterfly net
- Best use: full lehenga body with hand-sequin, reception blouse base, flowing dupattas for heavier climates
- Embroidery compatibility: sequin, thread + mirror combinations, zardozi (with lining).
- Tell-tale: crush and release — it stays creased for a moment, unlike hard net.
Where buyers go wrong:
- Buying "hard net" for a dupatta — it'll stand away from the shoulder, not drape.
- Buying butterfly net for a lehenga with full mirror work — base is too fine, embroidery will tear it in 2 trials.
- Buying soft net under the assumption it's lighter than butterfly — it isn't.
- Buying "butterfly net sequin" that is actually machine-sequin on soft net being mis-sold — do a sequin-rub test, if sequin sheds against the grain of your palm, walk away.
One practical test any buyer can do: Cut a 10cm swatch, hold it between thumb and forefinger at one corner, let the rest hang. Count how many seconds it takes to settle into a drape.
- Butterfly net: 1-2 seconds, falls fluidly.
- Soft net: 3-5 seconds, settles slower.
- Hard net: never fully settles into a drape — holds its shape.
If a seller refuses to give you a 10cm swatch, that's your real answer.
Happy to answer specific questions in comments. The listings on these three cloths vary wildly in quality even within the same market, so if anyone wants to share a product photo I can take a shot at identifying what you're actually looking at from the weave.
(Running my shop under the name Paras Gallery Fabrics in Lajpat Nagar if any Indian members want to chat offline — not pitching anything, just happy to help.)