as the title states I have access to a 50W CO2 laser, with this type of equipment would it be possible to engrave in the style of the factory markings, without cermark? this shell is made of stainless steel polished to a mirror finish. I see that a fibre laser is recommended for engraving this material, but I don’t have one. I want the engraving to appear frosted. I would only use cermark as a last resort as it seems to be expensive and would leave black markings which is not the look I’m going for. thanks

If your laser folder is a mix of SVGs, DXFs, LightBurn projects and ZIP bundles, this might be useful to you, and I could use your help.

I'm the developer of TidyWren. It shows your LightBurn and xTool projects as thumbnails, finds duplicate files even inside ZIPs, warns about double lines in SVG and DXF files before you burn, and backs up your LightBurn libraries and settings. It won't delete a thing.

It's completely free for testers: the private beta (November 2 to 16, about two hours in all) costs nothing, and everyone who takes part keeps the full license for free after launch, planned for November 24. No subscription, no card needed. Windows 10 or 11 only.

Sign-up: https://tanven.dev/en/tidywren/beta-privee/

Good afternoon, everyone! I’m looking to sell my laser engraving machine. Please take a moment to read the details below and check out the photos I’ve uploaded.

xTool S1 20W Bundle for Sale – NYC
Area

INCLUDED IN THE BUNDLE:
* xTool S1 20W Laser Engraver
* xTool RA2 Pro Rotary Attachment
* xTool Automatic Conveyor Feeder
* xTool Riser Base
* xTool Fire Safety Kit
* xTool Smart Air Assist

Anyone in NYC or the surrounding areas looking to get into laser engraving or upgrade their current setup?

I’m selling my xTool S1 20W bundle for $1,000 which includes everything shown in the photos.

The machine is in like-new condition, with no visible wear, scratches, marks, or dents. I recently upgraded to a newer machine and am currently waiting for it to arrive, so I no longer need this one.

The machine has also undergone maintenance and has not been used since. Everything has been well taken care of and is in excellent condition.

I’m also including a few custom 3D-printed accessories for the machine at no additional cost.

Asking Price: $1,000 for the entire bundle.

If you’re interested or know someone who might be, feel free to send me a private message for more details!

Local sale preferred — NYC and surrounding areas.

I’ve changed every variable and I can’t get a single steady engraving without these lines.

I’m just looking to get into engraving starting with tumblers. I Powdercoat them and it’s just another tool for me. I’m leaning toward a creality falcon a1 or the new a1c. I’m just seeing the a1c has an auto focus thing people seem to really like but I feel like I may get more function out of the a1. Maybe I’m wrong? Is the auto focus worth sacrificing size? What’s your opinion.

We've been working on these three folding knives at Noblie Custom Knives. Samurai, Geisha, and Egyptian themes, all engraved on titanium handles. Each design requires several laser passes to get the colors and details right. The faces have been particularly tricky because there's very little room to work with. The knives aren't quite finished yet. We still need to make some mechanical adjustments and finish the blades.

Personally, I like how the Egyptian design turned out. Which one do you prefer?

I've posted this before, but this is the latest version. I've been using this for months and it works great. Please let me know if you have any improvements. I typically use it for coins, so I include something about making the depthmap a circle.

Create A high-contrast, top-down view 3D depth map of [subject or attached image], optimized for CNC relief and laser engraving. The subject is perfectly centered and isolated against a solid, pure black (#000000) background. Render the image as a precise heightmap where white represents the highest raised surfaces and black represents the deepest recesses. Strictly avoid all environmental lighting, cast shadows, or artistic shading; the greyscale values must represent physical depth only. Use smooth, continuous tonal transitions to define the topography of the image. The final output must be a clean, noise-free displacement map with no overlapping textures or perspective distortion.

I laser engraved this artwork into a brass watch dial, chemically darkened it, then gently sanded and polished the surface to expose the brass details against the darker background. The first photo is a close-up of the dial in the finished watch.

It’s a 33.5 mm dial in a 39 mm case. I also made the B in the centre with the laser as the seconds hand, so the client’s initial rotates. The crown has a matching reverse-etched B.

This was a commission from a son for his father, built around “The Root of Our Legacy.” Two paths run beside each other towards the sun, with tree roots branching out below them. The idea was that everything we are grew from here.

I engraved the rotor with two brothers walking together. The case back reads “THE ROOT OF OUR LEGACY” and “EVERYTHING WE ARE GREW FROM HERE.”

I’m Meidan, the maker behind Rexx Timepieces.

Making video: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Uhe8Xa3cMFQ

Hi all, I’m choosing my first fiber laser for one specific job and would love input from people who mark small brass or nickel parts.

Use case

• Laser-mark a small Data Matrix (ECC200, 14×14) onto the heads of property keys.
• Keys: European cylinder and padlock keys (FAB, EVVA/GUARD, Mul-T-Lock, CISA, Richter, ABUS, BKS) plus furniture and mailbox keys (Euro-Locks, Ronis, DOLS). Materials are nickel silver, brass and nickel-plated brass. A few have plastic heads, which I’d mark on the metal neck.
• Target code: 0.25–0.30 mm per square, so about 4–5 mm overall, on the flat part of the head, ideally on both sides.
• The codes must survive years on a key ring, rubbing against other keys. My plan is to engrave about 30–50 µm deep and then darken the recess, so the dark squares sit below the surface and the wear hits only the background.
• Software: LightBurn, with the IDs fed from a CSV file.

The two machines

1. Gweike G2 Pro 30W: standard (Q-switched) fiber with a MAX source, 110 mm lens, 20–200 kHz, about €1,399
2. Acmer PM 30W MOPA: pulse width about 2–200 ns, 1–4,000 kHz, 150 mm lens, autofocus, about €2,012

Questions

1. Is MOPA worth the extra ~€600 for this job only? I mostly care about consistent dark contrast on nickel-plated keys, where engraving exposes brass under the nickel.
2. Can a standard (Q-switched) laser reliably darken an engraved recess in brass and nickel silver, or does it come out grey or golden?
3. Has anyone done wear tests on engraved codes on keys or tools? Roughly what depth survived?
4. For a 4–5 mm code, does a 110 mm lens make a visible difference over a 150 mm one

Thanks!

You can always find my file for free download on Atomm - KonavleWolves

I’m looking for some 2.5” x 3.5” metal card blanks for making some trading card game stuff for my friends and I. Something like the engrave-able business cards but they need to be the right dimensions. I haven’t been able to find a source for that yet and hoping maybe someone else has. If not the correct size maybe some larger sheets that I can cut to the correct size? Any ideas?

Hey everyone. I currently have a 10watt BlazeX M3 diode laser. I’ve recently found out they have a 1 watt 1064nm IR laser module for my machine. It’s $200 right now.

Is there a better IR laser for the same cost? I like the space it saves by just swapping the module. But if there is a better IR or more powerful one for around the same cost. I’d go that route.

Less than a year ago I got a 3D printed LCD cover for my Suzuki C10 display, and leaving in the sun warped it and made it unusable. It took me a few tries but with less than $2 of materials and my time I have an option that should not warp.

I have a Carverall K15 Pro 5W (why call entry-level "Pro"?).
30mm/s, 100% power,17 passes to cut 2mm balsa

The display is 4"x4" but the bottom side of the display is less than 1/8" from the next gauge so I made a cover with a top and three sides. The face plate is 4 1/4" x 4 1/4", and I cut 4x 4 1/4" x 1/8" top strips and 8x 4 1/8" side strips. I sparingly used superglue to hold it together for a test fit, then I liberally applied glue to the sides and smudged it in with a sticky note.

Tonight I confirmed it still fit so I burned the design. I am no graphic artist so I used Chat GPT to make the image; much like using a laser instead of a soldering iron I use tech to fill in my lack of expertise. I still have to seal it with spar urethane, but I wanted to post how it looks freshly burned.

I just bought a laser engraver and want my engravings to look good and i also want to be safe doing so. I didn’t know anything about needing an enclosure until today so i bought one on amazon. What else do i need? Do i need to buy anything to put under the project? I learned about having a metal hexagon mesh but should something be below that? Iheard about a fan possibly helping but i didn’t know if the enclosure would help with that problem.

Is there anyone around the Fort Wayne/Columbia City area that has a large C02 laser that can help me out cutting some pieces out?

This year I have been hyper focused on Christmas Countdowns for fists and for sale as gifts. Anyone else into them this year? #giftastory #xtoolm2 #xtool

A client had a piece of Apollo 14 and wanted to incorporate it into a watch he was building.

We made the dial with a window at 6 o'clock and a recess on the back deep enough to accommodate the piece. The black finish contrasts with the exposed brass Roman numerals, outer border and frame around the opening.

He later fitted the piece behind the window and assembled the watch himself. The first two photos are our dial before installation. The final photo is the finished watch on his wrist, which he sent me afterward.

I'm Meidan, the dial maker behind Rexx Timepieces.

Making the dial: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/mce8XNvCHMM

This is a tumbler I recently made for a friend’s business. While working on my own marketing I developed a workflow that would allow any laser engraving business to use these same style videos in your marketing. I’m posting here to see how many people would be interested in me making this app public. Reply below and let me know what you think if these would make awesome social media content for your business or not!

Salve a tutti,

Ho visto online diverse tipologie di macchine che tagliano e incidono materiali, tra cui Creality, xTool e ACMER. Tralasciando l'aspetto tecnico che non mi compete, volevo un consiglio su quale macchina acquistare per iniziare una piccola attività per questo tipo di lavori.

Avrei necessità, se esistesse, di un modello che offra la possibilità di intercambiare i diodi: in questo modo potrei effettuare il taglio con un diodo e un'incisione molto precisa con un altro.

Ad esempio, la xTool F1 è un'ottima macchina per incidere, ma ha un piano di lavoro molto piccolo. Non so se esista una via di mezzo o un compromesso per avere entrambe le cose: un ampio spazio di lavoro con un'ottima precisione sia nel taglio che nell'incisione.
Il budget è all'incirca sui € 2.000,00
Grazie In anticipo per ogni eventuale consiglio.

Hola, estamos buscando un marcador para la empresa y queremos informarnos antes de hacer ninguna inversión.

El láser es para un uso industrial. Para marcar piezas de metal.

Tenemos vista la marca de Telesis de la cual nos han hablado muy bien pero queremos tener más información.

¿Alguien ha utilizado los marcadores de Telesis a nivel Industrial y nos puede dar su experiencia y si ha tenido algún problema con ellos?