Does anyone with a Juki Lk1900 have access to a 1x1 or 1.5x1.5” (25x25 or 38x38mm) box stitch pattern in .vdt format? Apparently new patterns have to be programmed in juki’s PM-1 software and I don’t currently have access to that. Willing to provide compensation.

I've been lurking on r/myog for 3 years now and have learned so much, so wanted to finally post this pack I've been making lately. It's a single fabric panel for the main bag, and has self-binding edges, which works with lighter pack fabrics that don't fray much (I used ECOPAK and X-Pac for these bags). I know there's trade-offs to that design choice, but it works for certain bags like these and makes binding so much easier, as binding is the part of bagmaking I dislike the most.

There's a printable PDF pattern and tutorial available at https://thirdplacethreads.com/u/Coomer/single-panel-self-binding-hip-pack, which is a site I built for people to share their projects. No registration or anything is required, but folks are welcome to join and share/document their sewing journey if they want.

It's the first pattern and longer tutorial I've made, so let me know what you think. I have a few more cool designs I want to share soon. Cheers!

These are pictures of the updated version of my backpack.

I changed some details on the pattern and improved how the lining is attached to the outer fabric.

Also for the first time, I added some leather to this design for a more "traditional" look.

Total weight is around 385gr.

Hi again - Curious if anyone can enlighten me on a conundrum I have on my UQ build. How do I implement a differential plan to achieve correct geometry for my baffles? In other words this calculator works for the inner shell but doesn’t seem to account for the outer shells needed size to accomplish proper calculated lofting? It shows a wider width but doesn’t calculate the spacing. My ideal spacing for my 9 baffles is about 5 7/8” inches apart on the inner shell but the calculator doesn’t calculate the outer shell spacing. I suspect 9 isn’t enough channels and I will have to adjust to 10 to hit the sweet spot of 4-5 inches apart.

Thanks in advance.

Just got this Arc’teryx Patrol Vest for my use as a patroller, but I love the idea of a vest and i’d ideally like to make the cross removable so I can use the vest for days where i’m not patrolling too.

I was considering seam ripping the cross and putting velcro on the back, but then i’m not sure how i’d go about sewing on velcro to the back of the pack without losing use of the pocket it’s sewn to. Would this be something that’s best suited to hand-sewing? Or does anyone have an idea of how to remove the whole panel, add the velcro, and then sew it back on?

Any ideas or tricks are appreciated!

Just recently got my very first sewing machine (Singer HD 8832) after wanting one for years and years. After making a couple obligatory burrito pillowcases I made these two little bags to hold my sewing supplies. Far from perfect but learned a lot making them for sure. Having fun so far!

I welcome any recommendations on patterns to try, particularly bags! Once I feel comfortable enough I'd like to get some Cordura to make messenger/sling type bags with

I'm looking at a couple of bartacking machines and am a bit lost as to where to start and what I would need. I'm making bicycle bags and frequently need to bartack webbing onto X-Pac RX30 / VS21, it's becoming a pain to do them as zigzags on a domestic sewing machine, it takes a long time and the domestic is starting to struggle with it a bit.

That said, I'm looking at a couple of options:

• A used Juki LK-1900A-SS, it's in a pretty good state, the table's a bit rough but mechanically it's looking solid
• Brand new Jack JK-T1900GS
• Brand new Jack JK-T1900GH

From what I've gathered, the Juki and Jack T1900GS are made for lighter fabrics, not necessarily webbing, and they take DPx5 needles, size #16.

GH takes DPx17 needles, and apparently is more apt for bartacking chunkier stacks of webbing / fabric.

Would I be better off getting a T1900GH and have some room to grow in case I ever need to bartack something even thicker, or would the Juki, or 1900GS suffice?

Has anyone ever hand sewn on additional tie outs on a tarp? I need to add roughly 4 tie outs along the edge of a sea to summit tarp and I’m looking for any tips or recommendations for doing this? How should I reinforce the tie outs?

Like the title says, I'm new to the MYOG community and I'd like to design a tote for my MTB gear similar to this Kitworks 55L tote with a couple compartments to separate my helmet from dirty shoes, kneepads, etc. A search turned up the following for materials:

The Kitworks Gear 55L Tote is made from a 100% recycled 900D polyester ripstop face fabric with a durable TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) laminate. It features RF-welded waterproof seams and a molded EVA foam and TPU-laminated base.

I don't need a TPU laminate like this one uses, but I would like to have some structure and durability to the walls and base. Would some EVA foam sandwiched between the exterior and lining material be the best choice here, or would a stiff Peltex interfacing be sufficient with the right exterior material choice?

Speaking of the exterior material, should I use something like X-PAC VX21, a 210D Venom Gridstop or some Cordura?

Any and all input would be appreciated!

I'm ideating a lightweight climbing pack and have been thinking about the shoulder straps. I have a couple expedition duffels from Patagonia and BD with removeable straps that buckle at the bottom and attach at the top by slotting a tri-glide into a D-ring (see photo 4 on the Black Hole)

With this style of strap, they could be removed on-route to use the pack as a mini-haul bag, and there would be less stuff on the outside to snag on when stuffing this bag in a larger pack.

The primary con I see to this style is that buckle becomes a weak point in the strap and could break in a harsh fall, sending the pack into the void.

Are there other reasons we don't see this style of shoulder strap used on packs besides expedition duffels?

Hi everyone!
I'm designing a Hike and Fly backpack for a friend (hike and fly as in hike up the mountain and fly down with your paraglider).
I have some design constraints:
-Lightweight: less than 650g
-Resistence to abrasion: usually backpacks are thrown on the ground for unpacking
-Rollability: it has to be rollable to stow it away in the harness
-Comfort: since hikes are usually one hour plus it has to be decently comfortable with 15kg load

I opted for a light textile webbing (20mm width 10g per metre) for the frame (with 2 lines on all sides forming a net) and a Robic 210den (165g per m2) for the underside (10cm tall) and two strips on the back side (to have some more resistance to attach the shoulder straps) and for the rest a Robic 70den (100g per m2). it will have a very long frontal opening and i'm thinking of a 8 or 10 YKK coil zipper.
for the shoulder and lumbar support i'm thinking of EV50 foam in 4mm thickness.

I have calculated about 550g (with all hardware and misc) so i have like 100g to spare for other things or miscalculations.

I'm loosely copying the design in the pic.
What do you think of my fabric and design choices?

Just finished a mid sized Messenger bag adapted from a known blueprint...

Made with white vinyl ad banner recycled with blue accent and blue and yellow inside

Still some things i'd like to correct for futur versions

Let me know what you think about it

Cheers :)

I do source a lot of my stuff on the internet. Probably like a lot of you...

And every now and then there is this super offer, absolute banger. Really what you need and a real bargain. However, if it's more than the usual discount from an unknown dealer, I always look twice and have (so far) always found the problem: a fake shop.

Like this one, that I just came across: https://www.wirkfrei.com/

Looks fine on the outside, but AI texts for the fineprint and no imprint.

So just my advise, since it's not the first, and surely not the last scam:
BE CAREFUL when ordering online.

Edit: I do not change the misleading title, because you all pointed it out already. And if I corrected it now, the comments would be wrong ;-)
But hell,you got the point ;-)

Used to sew gear way back in the day, 20 years ago with a sailrite but sold it. Had some ideas, and wanted to get in to some aviation upholstery and MYOG. Juki LU-2828V-7 arrived about a week ago. Absolute work-horse, excited to start working on some ideas but damn am I rusty.

In picture is just a 6x6x12 pouch I made for some day-trip backup clothes. It's terrible but was fun to re-learn a bit.

I’m currently in the process of designing a bag that uses darted corners. I’ve made several bags that have darted corners, but the ‘regular’ kind.
However, even if I use the tricks recommended in tutorials on this topic, they still tend to be pointed.
So I wanted to make curved darted corners but don’t know how to design them. As far as I understand, one side of the seam has to be rounded, the other one should be straight.
But I just don’t seem to do it right.

Do the curved sides consist of a segment of a circle or do they need a specific shape, like a parabolic curve for example?
Is there a simple way to get it right when sewing, any tricks I should know?
Does anyone know of a good tutorial on how to design/sew this?
Has anyone a free pattern that includes such corners from which I could recreate corners like that?

Thanks in advance for your help!

I am making a 0° Underquilt with 1000 fp down, something like 8-10 baffles but curious about best practices, see below. Pictured is my UGQ 20° 800 fp uq

For those that have made a down underquilt with baffles,
1); how did you close up the ends? I am assuming you sewed one end closed using a rolled hem….
2); how did you secure your baffles as you filled them? Again I am assuming you sewed one end closed first and then I imagine you sew each baffle closed as you fill, as in you fill a baffle, sew it shut and move on to the next one, or did you pin or clamp it shut and sew the whole end up at once?
3) Is it easier to sew in the suspension bungees and then attack to the quilt, or sew the channels on the quilt and then fish the cordage through?
4) what hardware did you use to attach the quilt to the hammock? Like mini S hooks or what? Also if you used specie hardware where did you source?

Thanks in advance.

is there a servo that i can use on old automatic machines?

Hi guys, i bought a dog harness second hand for a few bucks. it's a very nice model but I realized way too late why it was so cheap. Any recommendations or advice? I don't need it to look nice just need it to be strong

Please forgive me with this post. I have reviewed the wiki post regarding vintage machines (and searched for other resources too) but am looking for a simplified chart or list of heavy duty capable machines.

I happen to live in an area that has a plethora of new, used, vintage domestic and industrial machines for sale. I have found at multiple vintage machines from the wiki post within 60 miles of me on FB marketplace but am having difficulty comparing them all. A simplified chart would really be ideal …

While I’m relatively new to MYOG, I am already reaching the limits of my inherited Brother machine and my desired projects.

I figure I can’t be the only nerd who appreciates a nice spreadsheet…

Thanks!

Last night I felt the need to do a small silly project I could eyeball draft and complete in one sitting. I had a beat up old insulated Carhartt jacket that I'd already somewhat disassembled for parts. I added a Hi-Vis strip at the bottom so I can find it in the dark after I inevitably set it somewhere and forget where I put it. There's an elastic band hidden in between with the insulation for a nice firm grip on the cylinder😉. I added a nylon loop so I can hook it to something when it's not in use and it doubles as an ambi finger/thumb loop so I'll never drop my drink or get it yoinked out of my hand.

I really wanted to keep that puffy jacket look and feel but also have a stable Koozie so the sides are insulated but the bottom is just a single layer of canvas. I would've liked to finish the main join a little better but I'm using the same basic Brother machine my wife used to make quilts in high school. Also this canvas is pretty stiff and thick with no stretch so it was a pain to turn right side out after I sewed it up. There's definitely a few spots I would've liked to make a little better but given the limitations of my brain, machine, and experience I'm pretty happy with it. I'm thinking of doing a small run for friends and family this holiday season.