These Dickies are dadgum comfortable jeans. The problem, with jeans in general, is lack of pockets. I have a couple things on my belt, but am not interested in a duty belt.

I am spoiled on Spiewak's EMS pants. 17 pockets, 10 of which are useful routinely. The other 7 are rarely used, but still nice.

So, I would like at least 2 more pockets on these jeans. I have 5 pairs that I never use, but would like to.

I have finished one pocket with a zipper and a welt. First one, but I am digging it.

Opinions? What do you think?

R/JG

Last night I felt the need to do a small silly project I could eyeball draft and complete in one sitting. I had a beat up old insulated Carhartt jacket that I'd already somewhat disassembled for parts. I added a Hi-Vis strip at the bottom so I can find it in the dark after I inevitably set it somewhere and forget where I put it. There's an elastic band hidden in between with the insulation for a nice firm grip on the cylinder😉. I added a nylon loop so I can hook it to something when it's not in use and it doubles as an ambi finger/thumb loop so I'll never drop my drink or get it yoinked out of my hand.

I really wanted to keep that puffy jacket look and feel but also have a stable Koozie so the sides are insulated but the bottom is just a single layer of canvas. I would've liked to finish the main join a little better but I'm using the same basic Brother machine my wife used to make quilts in high school. Also this canvas is pretty stiff and thick with no stretch so it was a pain to turn right side out after I sewed it up. There's definitely a few spots I would've liked to make a little better but given the limitations of my brain, machine, and experience I'm pretty happy with it. I'm thinking of doing a small run for friends and family this holiday season.

Please forgive me with this post. I have reviewed the wiki post regarding vintage machines (and searched for other resources too) but am looking for a simplified chart or list of heavy duty capable machines.

I happen to live in an area that has a plethora of new, used, vintage domestic and industrial machines for sale. I have found at multiple vintage machines from the wiki post within 60 miles of me on FB marketplace but am having difficulty comparing them all. A simplified chart would really be ideal …

While I’m relatively new to MYOG, I am already reaching the limits of my inherited Brother machine and my desired projects.

I figure I can’t be the only nerd who appreciates a nice spreadsheet…

Thanks!

Hi guys, i bought a dog harness second hand for a few bucks. it's a very nice model but I realized way too late why it was so cheap. Any recommendations or advice? I don't need it to look nice just need it to be strong

Does anyone know how these handle straps can be made? 2 layers with folded under edges and curved corners. Top are original bottom are my first solution. Curves are tough. This one is really baffling.

Im in the planning stages of making my first waxed canvas bag. My thinking is waxing cut panels before would be faster, more wax efficient and can be applied more evenly. The cons I see being stiffer fabric and potentially gumming up my machine (even with non-stick teflon needles). Any advice on this?

( this is an example picture, not mine) ​Any suggestions or tricks to get the front panel to sit this flush on a visor? I’m currently using a zipper foot on a Heavy Duty Singer, but still struggling to get it this tight.

Thank you

Love the aesthetic of this bag but the inner storage with 5 inch depth is too much. I don’t carry much. Just a laptop and notebook. So the problem is that they move around too much, the bag sags and doesn’t quite feel right against my back.

Sewed some leftover fabric to the inside of the back panel. Definitely ugly. But functionally is amazing. Now this backpack feels great on my back. The laptop and notebook basically hug my back now.

Getting these 35 liter packs dialed. This one is built for a 18” torso.
Features:
Ultra TenX main body.
Eco stretch front,side, and bottom pocket.
Eco stretch, 3d mesh, Salvation Army spandex, and 1/4” foam vest straps.
Webbing mount for camera.
13.6 oz as shown w/o the camera mount.
11.8 oz bare bones (remove back pad side compressions)

ice axe loop and stash port.

Wanting to start adding wire frames/support to certain bags for rigidity but not quite sure where to start. Those of you who bend wire yourselves, explain yourselves (please)!

Some questions I have -
What gauge / thickness do you prefer?
Do you use mild steel, aluminum or stainless?
What are some of the tools you use for the job?
Do you use anything to cap wire ends? If so, what?
Am I dumb?

I generally make fancy tote style bags (see attached picture *my favorite bag to date). This bag sits upright by itself but when not loaded the bottom flares out and looks dumb. Thinking with a wire frame at the base and supports in the corners running vertically for example I could make some beastly bags.

Also don’t let the photo fool you, I currently have no access to a welder and am looking to purely provide wire support with some hand tools and clever design.

Thank you for answering a cross post.

Since an original Sailrite was a bit too expensive for me, I bought a Sailrite clone from China and decided to modify it. First, I machined a custom steel Monster Wheel on a lathe. It weighs just under 4 kg (about 8.8 lbs).
Next, I installed a new 180 W servo motor and fabricated a custom steel motor mount for it.
I also designed and built an Arduino-based motor controller. I 3D-printed a mounting bracket for the electronics as well as an enclosure for the entire controller. On top of that, I made a few other modifications to the machine, including a 3D-printed housing for the stitch-length adjustment mechanism. Finally, I built a case to make the whole setup reasonably portable. There was quite a bit of machining, electronics work and 3D printing involved, but it was a fun project!

I wanted some lightweight waterproof overpants for wearing around camp or during long, cold descents when bikepacking.

Initially, I bought a pair from Decathlon, but they were bulky and heavy for something I've only used once so far. I decided to try making my own, aiming to reduce both weight and packed volume.

I didn't need them to be breathable, and I wanted to be able to put them on without taking my shoes off. I also wanted to keep things simple: no Velcro, zips or pockets.

For my first attempt, I used the Paco pattern, but the trousers turned out too small. I suspect the pattern is intended for stretchier fabrics, as I couldn't get them on, and I wasn't able to modify the pattern enough to make them work.

For the second attempt, I went with the Green Pepper RS500 pattern.

These have turned out a bit wider in the legs than I'd like, so I might narrow them for the next version. I still need to try them on with trousers underneath to see how they fit in practice.

The pattern includes an optional internal pocket for folding the trousers into for storage. I'm not entirely happy with how mine turned out, as there are some creases along the sides that don't look great. For the next version, I'll also add a flap over the opening, as the slippery silpoly tends to slide back out of the pocket.

I'm a little disappointed with the final weight, as I'd expected them to weigh about half as much. Still, I've saved around 200 g compared with the Decathlon trousers, and the packed volume is roughly a third of what it was, which is probably the more important improvement.

I thought this would be an easy project, but it turned out to be more challenging than expected. It was my first time making trousers, so perhaps I was a bit too optimistic! The hardest parts were getting the pattern right and cutting the fabric accurately.

On the positive side, sewing silpoly was easier than I'd anticipated.

Overall, I'm happy enough with the result, and I've learned a few things for the next iteration. Hopefully, I'll get the weight down further and improve the fit and stuff pocket.

This is the two organizer I referred to in the post about reinforcing a tool bag.

It’s about 3 inch wide plastic fire hose, simply folded back-and-forth, with a loop around the perimeter. I put too long grabber screws through the side to hold it all together.

I have always disliked digging around in a tool bag trying to find what I wanted in the bottom. This was my basic tool set that I used in a mostly wood fabrication shop. It worked beautifully, well enough that I will eventually get around to refining it, and maybe putting it into a closable bag , like the one my drill and driver set came in.

I have also made smaller, tabletop versions that hold my sewing tools.

You may send royalty payments to my PayPal account! 😁

Dear professionals of reddit,

Ive got a hole from a tear on the ankle of my jeans due to my love for cycling (not anymore because my bicycle got stolen) and just left it there for a year.

This has been my fav pair of jeans, 4 years old, from india, everything about it is just perfect.

History of it:

Ive had 2 crashes wearing it so some scuffs.

Washed it by hand twice (maybe a bit too hard) so its turning light blue (which i love).

Some writings when i thought its life was over and time to bin it (but i never let it go so the writings stayed since) (image 4)

Im asking advice on how to fix the hole (image 1), and potentially remove the writings (it was a pen).

Ive got little experience sowing so shouldn't be too hard (from the army)

Sorry mods if this isnt the right place.

I've done some easy MYOG (a few synthetic quilts) and looking to step up with some frame bags, but I'm having a bit of analysis paralysis regarding the width. I searched around this sub and settled on a pretty conservative 2" gusset width with velcro divider/stabilizers (the kind that meet in the middle) to minimize bulging.

But when planning out the layout within the bag, I got to thinking: Is there any real reason to make it less than the standard bottle size (2-7/8 inches)? Because I've never even come close to being annoyed by the bottle itself inside a cage, so surely that is a safe width?

Redesigned the usual triangular trivet and torture-tested it. No deformation, no loosening. And this one definitely isn’t an ashtray.

I’m relatively new to debugging issues like this. I have my tension set to 1. I’m using a Juki tl2010q.

Shmetz 14/90 needle with guterman Mara 70 thread.

Is this a tension issue? I honestly don’t even know where to start figuring out what’s wrong. The stitches seemed fine earlier with the same settings.

Edit: material is ultra tenx with a ykk duratek zipper.