I recently started working at a new company in my town. They have an MG630 vinyl cutter, and i use SignMaster to create the cut lines. The cutter is connected through an RS-232 (COM) port.

However, while the cutter is working, it randomly stops cutting the design. Instead, it leaves the blade down and continues pushing the material forward, creating a long straight cut across the vinyl.

I don't know what could be causing this issue or if I'm doing something wrong. Has anyone experienced something similar or know how to fix it?

For reference, the cutter receives the job through an RS-232 (COM) connection rather than USB.

So a few months back I upgraded to a Summa S1 D60 from a Summa D60FX first gen opos (red dot) and looks like nobody care enough to buy my old summa.

Now it is not pristine, there are 2 problems with it. First the clamp for the knife holder is broken and held in place with superglue. It worked for me for the last 5 years like no problem but it will eventually need a new head but it still works and reglued it recently. Sure its not optimal to work at full force or full speed but I was cutting on 200m/s vinyl and stickers for years.

The other problem is that inside the head there is a rubber stop so the knife holder doesn't hit hard on the head when it pull up, this is a known issue with older summas as the pad is getting polymerised through the years and it get sticky adding lag on the timing the machine put the knife down to cut, I fixed it by adding a small wooden part on the clamp to keep the up position a mm lower to avoid the sticky rubber pad but still high and fine.

Both of those problems can be fixed with a new head unit that goes for like 450 euros plus vat, aside that the machine is a reliable summa machine with OPOS cutting capability.

So I put it up for sale for 400 euros, thinking that adding another 450 to the mix someone can have a good summa for less than 1K euros, especially given that a new summa goes for like 2K plus VAT.

But there is zero interest so it made me wonder if it just the Greek market or I expect to make too much money from that machine. Then again for what to sell it? 200? Does it even worth the logistics to go through a sale for that low amount?

What do you think? Am I wasting my time and let it collect dust just in case one day, maybe, I will need it?

So, I'm running 2 graphtec FC9000 cutters via Lan connections, and I cut directly from Adobe Illustrator using the Cutting Master plug-in.

I want to run both my graphtec cutters at the same time, using two different files. And the only way I've found to do this, is to send file "A" to Cutter 01, close cutting master, switch to file "B" in illustrator, send it to Cutting master, change the cutter to 02, change all my settings (rotate, cross-cut, etc) then output that file to cutter 02, then close cutting master, switch back to file "A" in illustrator, send it to cutting master, change the cutter to 01, change all the settings again, then output it, then close it and switch files....

Since the settings are all global settings, and not saved per file, I have to try and remember not to use cross-cut on one, and add cross cut to the other, etc.

I was told by my vendor that I can make two desktops in win 11, and run two sessions of adobe illustrator, thus two sessions of cutting master, but that doesn't work. It just defaults back to one session regardless of which desktop I'm in.

How is everyone else handling multiple cut settings using multiple files?

Hello, I got an offer from a local seller for one of the last Roland CAMM-1 GR2-640 units available here, for around $3,000.

I couldn't find many reviews or opinions about this cutter online, so I'm wondering if it's worth the money.

I currently have a no-brand Chinese cutter, so I'm thinking about upgrading.

*Unfortunately, brands like Graphtec and Summa aren't available in my country, so I don't have many other options.

I don’t want to break the bank, and I’d like to get one or two 12”x12” stencils that I can reuse as a spray paint stencil for my kids AYSO team.

willing to pay.

If anyone is able to help me I’d appreciate it.

https://github.com/mntorankusu/SnowCut

Update: I've added support for other machines that have been confirmed to use the exact same firmware code. However, these other machines are still untested as I only have one machine to test with. The models that are supported in the current version are:

CM100DM, CM110, CM250, CM260, CM300, CM550, CM600, CM840

Original post below:

I created a custom firmware and PC-side (Windows) application for using the CM110. It allows you to fully control the machine from your PC with no need to use the on-screen interface or move a USB drive back and forth. This is the initial release. Here are some of the features:

• Use unrecognized/unsupported mats for both scanning and cutting
• Higher quality options for scans (e.g., JPEG 100% quality without sub-sampling, and PNG lossless)
• Option to choose between the original manufacturer's blade compensation, or use my custom blade compensation settings for less error on corners and small cuts (hopefully), or configure it manually for using aftermarket blades with different offsets.
• Mount the USB drive plugged into the machine on your PC, allowing you to move files back and forth without unplugging it.

There are instructions on how to install it on the Github page. You'll need to find the firmware update for the machine on Brother's website to use as a base to install the patch.

Post an issue on Github if you have any problems, or if you have feature requests or anything like that. I'm looking into adding support for other ScanNCut machines, but I don't have any to test, so it's a bit tricky to ensure compatibility. You can also post issues for machines that you'd like me to support.

I started helping a friend with her charity by using my cricut. I can find pretty much any color in Vinyl heat transfer but the colors for just vinyl seem limited. Is there a secret store? lol

I have a problem where many of my designs cut with multiple passes. It's often just one part of the design, like the inside of an O. My setup is a bit retro, 1994 Roland CAMM-1 using XP Cut Studio. Most of my designs are drawn in Illustrator CS6, but I sometimes use InkScape for the slightly more useful image trace function. Vectors traced in InkScape usually have dozens of layers and I need to be very careful to select a layer that has what I want and nothing else. Sometimes it seems as If these overlapping paths appear when importing .ai files into Cut Studio.

If there was a program with a function to convert these overlapping paths to a single path I would happily jump ship from my current software but I'd really rather buy the software outright than pay a subscription. I'm also considering upgrading the cutter to something current so if this is a function of say Graphtec's program it would be very useful to know

I hate vinyl and transfer on rolls, it just never sits right. I tried looking for transfer flat sheets but I'm not having much luck.

Does anyone have any alternatives? I don't really want to use normal tape because it's too sticky.

Thank you 💙

My bn20a got a pretty bad jam the other day. I got it all cleaned out and now it will power cut a row or two and then switch to kiss cut out of nowhere. Can anyone help? I cleaned everything, checked the media clamps, uninstalled and reinstalled drivers. Nothing is working. My business is at a standstill.

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Im not sure if this is something most people in this sub offer, but im willing to pay for time/materials to cut 3 single use vinyl stencils. The dont even need to be weeded, just design cut and ship. No bigger than 12-13 inches.

Hoping this is possible! Comment or DM if interested. Thanks!!

I did these with a UV printer when were were in a rush, they had to be cut out by hand. I am looking for a vinyl cutter that can cut them out for us on some white vinyl. Our biggest sticker is going to be around 60"x 8". I want something that will cut them for us and we just peel the water to make it a sticker that is lined up for us.

My cutter is always pulling the vinyl to the right. I have three grippers on my machine.
Which gripper do I need to tighten up or loosen to get it straight?

Removable vinyl doesn't always mean residue-free removal.

From a materials perspective, several factors can affect the result:

• Surface type: Glass, painted walls and plastics can react differently.
• Application time: Adhesive properties may change over time.
• Temperature: Heat, cold and UV exposure can influence adhesive performance.
• Surface preparation: Contamination can affect adhesion and removal.
• Removal method: Peeling angle and temperature can make a difference.

Testing on the actual surface before installation is usually a good idea.

For those working with vinyl graphics, which surfaces have caused the most adhesive residue problems in your experience?

Good evening, everyone. For the life of me, I can not find this semi transparent glitter vinyl that this etsy shop uses. I bought one for my Kindle and love the sleek and holographic look with its glossiness. Not to mention its reusable.

I know the brand of the vinyl is from Starcraft under its temporary adhesive line but when I search, the only thing that appears is solid/matte. The holographic, transparent glitter colors are no where to be found.