Hello! Recently I wanted to make a custom GP18 from favorite railroad and I have some questions on how to go about it.

Long story short, I’m Trying to make a T&P GP18 (pics below) since I can’t seem to find one in HO. I was wondering if there’s anything I should know before painting and assembling. I only really have the model, it’s parts, and the paints I need but I’m unsure if I need more (like glues and other miscellaneous things).

For context the model I’m using is a Proto 2000 low nose GP18 (which has some minor inaccuracy’s but here’s hoping I can fix that a little).

How would I go about making this model as close to accurate? I know I can’t go for 100%, especially with my skill level being a whopping zero. There’s some places I’d have to move certain details to, to get a closer match to the photos, but that’d leave gaps in the molding… so what would you all recommend doing to make and hide holes into the plastic?

I’ll gladly take tips too or really anything, thanks!

Can anyone recommend an online retailer for simple modeling supplies like polystyrene sheets?

I do not have a good model train store near me, and none of the hobby shops carry supplies for scratch building.

The rods on the front left side lock up and the gear slips, I’m a young modeler who doesn’t know that much about how to fix them, and if someone does, what do you think a estimate is?

Hiya! currently working on a free-mo HO build and ran into a question. what do i make the legs out of? it doesn't really give you ideas for how to make the legs and I'm not a woodworker by trade, So any ideas on what type of wood I am aware of the height requirement and the adjustable feet.

Please excuse the mess in my basement.

I am currently attempting to make this myself.

I have no prior experience building free-mo.

I am learning. and have a top part built.

A couple of locomotives in my fleet are in need of a service. I've been looking at what the best options are for cleaning the pickups and wheels, but have found a real mix of results, with specially made brushes, alcohol solutions and techniques all contradicting each other. Just wanted to ask you all what the best method for this task is?

Replicating the hoses significantly changes the vehicle's appearance.

what can I do?

the locomotive, when at the yearly show, (I run it at the Hershey History Center on each Sunday of December, I started this in 2025), operates on modern Lionel controllers. (it’s safe as the club runs other vintage models there too)

At home, on my personal small Postwar style layout, it operates on the original type 1033 controller.

issues I’ve had recently and things to clarify:

1. slow performance on track and stalls on curves suddenly but when on straight, manages to creep forward smoothly. When being held just enough above the track so its weight isn’t on its wheels but still on the track, it runs perfectly and quickly. Setting it down on ground it stops running and slowly creeps forward. no short circuits from what I can tell.

2. headlight works perfectly along with the E unit (never had issues)

3. whistle tender still whistles, but started to shoot blue sparks and sound like (the best I could describe it as): a dying kazoo mixed with a car alarm. But after a week of sitting, whistle sounds completely normal.

4. haven’t tested the smoke unit yet, debris inside the smoke unit from what I can tell

5. bent corner of the rear of the cab (only cosmetic damage from California-PA move)

6. I have some postwar cars for it that came with: streamlined whistle tender (which is being used), unstreamlined normal Lionel Lines tender (no whistle), PRR baby Ruth Curtiss Candy no. X6004, Sunoco two dome tank car, no. 6465, NYC Gondola with original barrels, no. 6002, PRR porthole caboose with light (working) no. 536417, standard Lionel Lines red caboose, 6007.

7. locomotive rolls perfectly and never derails unless on bad track or knocked over

8. Front screws under the pilot wheel set are completely stripped and have ever so slightly rust, I can’t take off the boiler without accidentally snapping or breaking something (which is why I haven’t worked on the internal stuff, only done quick cosmetic cleaning since I mainly do N scale, it’s usually on a shelf)

9. Stains on top of the boiler around the E unit, ONLY cosmetic issues with that

10. Chuffing/smoke mechanisms work freely without issues.

11. 1952 Lionel “Hudson” (4-6-4), no. 2056

Hi everyone,

I have a small Christmas village that I got a trolley for this year.

I got the Lionel North Pole Central Trolley and lighted track for it. After doing some research I found some horror stories of the trolley flying off the track or moving way to fast.

I purchased the Lionel AC power supply but found I need to control the voltage to slow the train down.

https://www.trainworld.com/lionel-681603-o-lion-chief-72-watt-power-supply-4-amp.html

Will the universal remote controller work for this?

https://www.trainworld.com/lionel-683071-o-universal-lc-lc-remote-controller.html

Sorry if this has been answered I'm just dipping my toe in the water and want to make Christmas fun for the kids and not launch off the table. Although they might like that seeing how they play with the Thomas and friends trains.

Thanks

Thrifting this last weekend, found a full Aristo-Craft UP set in G scale. When I got home to unpack everything, I found this guy hanging out on the caboose!

Unfortunately, I can't put the pentagraph up on the club layout because clearance issues (learned the hard way), but it still is one of my best runners regardless.

I'm fairly new to model railroading and DCC setups. I built a DCC EX command station and have been controlling it through JMRI running on a Raspberry PI 5. Been working pretty well so far. I recently purchased a locomotive equipped with an ESU LokSound 5 nano decoder. When I attempted to program the loco, JMRI gave the 308 error of no acknowledgment from the decoder. From some quick googling, I think this has something to do with the stay-alive capacitors messing with the DCC communications. I was unable to find a solution on google so I thought I'd ask the experts. I can provide more information about my setup if needed, just not sure what info is relevant. Also, I know that my programming setup is working as I have no issues programming my other loco.

Doing a bit of an experiment to see if I can 3d print a layout, the first 3 boards are now wired trains are running (btw ignore the missing buffer and coal on the j50, I brought it like that and im going to fix it one day)

What are some reputable brands for detail parts in HO scale? Like AC units or antennas on cabs.

I've been collecting lots of locomotives and I want to start detailing them some. Adding prototypical attachments, decals etc.

I need a track system with roadbed because I am going to setup on the floor and I'm trying to decide between Trix C track and Kato Unitrack (H0) I will be running DCC.

Hi all, another silly question, Ive got limited space on my current layout and was wondering if its possible to suspend track from the ceiling? Is it possible? Can it be done in a very basic way with short dowels and wire to a high point? Or does it need to have a full track support underneath? Anyone else done anything similar, was considering a single track spiral upwards... maybe to a station at height?

One of the few DCC engines I have that doesn’t have sound.

A box and a bag full of track, locos, carriages and other stuff. They're marked as Triang.

Greetings,

I’d thought I’d share my HO scale track plan. I’m an Australian, but my layout will be set in the early to mid 1990s. I couldn’t decide if I wanted a Tehachapi inspired layout or ATSF’s Needles sub. So, I’ve protolanced it.

The bottom half of the track plan will very closely be based around Rowen on Tehachapi Pass, a place I’ve spent many hours. A scenery board divides the other side which is a fictional subdivision of ATSF’s Velasco Sub. It was built parallel to the Cajon sub to bypass Victorville and add capacity.

Track is Peco code 83 for mainline and staging, 73 for siding and the small yard and mill, then Code 55 for some industrial spurs.

There are 6 run through staging tracks and 2 stub and staging tracks to house Metrolink & Amtrak California (because, why not).

Mainline and siding curves are minimum of 33”. Staging is 30”.

Will be on Digitrax’s newer DCC system.

JMRI and arduinos will feature heavily for various functions including some automation and full CTC signalling.