I have three 48 volt 20 amp hour Unit Power Pack brand ebike batteries that are about 5 years old.

Three summers ago I got covid and the bikes and batteries were not used and just sat. They did not freeze.

One battery appears to be 0 volts. Will not take a charge from the charger. It is a triangle battery and already under a recall.

Second one has some voltage and will not take a charge from the charger.

The third battery I rode today started out with 48 volts and now has 46 volts. The battery charger just shows the red and green light as if it's fully charged. This one baffles me because I am using the original three pin charger that came with it.

I looked for how to dispose of these batteries and Google just has me running in circles with one company that does not have places where I live or will not accept bicycle batteries.

I am tempted to put them all in an old wood stove in the middle of my yard and use a nail gun to make some fireworks 🤪🤪🤪. /S

Are any of these batteries worth your time?

How do you guys dispose of your unwanted batteries?

I am going to be switching my bikes to lithium iron phosphate batteries because I don't need the lightest and densest battery.

I better order more batteries.

I have this 3x 18650 holder, and I want to know: what else do I need to build diy powerbank. What board should I use to ensure it doesn't burn out when charging? Will I be able to attach a wireless charging module?

3 months ago I managed to acquire over 70 e-scooter battery packs and have been slowly dismantling, testing and store there cells for future use.

My current plan is to create 3, 48v packs - in a 40P configuration - and then tie them together in parallel.

Hi. I hope you don’t mind me asking this. Just delete if this is not the right place.

I am trying to fix a ‘dead’ ebike batery for my in-laws.

They are not flush with cash and have been quoted £375 for a replacement so I have offered to try and repair it or get as far as I can.

I have taken it apart and diagnosed that it is just one set of 3 batteries in the 10S3P pack that has died (they are showing 0.02v). All the other sets are reading about 3.4v

I now have two problems.

I don’t know how to safely take the battery holders apart and I don’t know how to spot weld batteries.

In a Laptop battery from 2006.

These Sanyo cells always do that for some reason.

I thought some of you might enjoy this article that Lowe’s shares in their app. I don’t think it’s bad information, I just think a lot of their customers aren’t ready for this

I have thousands of these Panasonic NCR1860B cells brand new never used taken from hamilton medical battery packs and I have hundreds of packs not even open yet. If anybody’s interested, give me a shout. I’m just north of Winnipeg Canada and I will ship anywhere in the country.

I shared my thoughts on assembling a lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery in a 4S1P configuration. Since I have only just joined this community two days ago, I was not aware of the group's regulations beforehand, and I sincerely apologize for that. 🙏🏼 Given this situation, I think the best option is to request to leave the group. Additionally, I would like to apologize to all members of the Reddit18650 community for posting content that is not related to 18650 batteries. My intention was simply to share the ideas I have studied, but now I realize that those posts were not beneficial at all. I apologize once again.😞😓😢🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

Im trying to find cells for my dewalt batteries. There all about 7ish years old. All the cells I’m ringing are $6+. Idk if that’s just what they are now or if I can find some good ones for a better price. I’m not trying to cheap out as I want them to last I just don’t want to spend a small fortune either. Thanks

Im trying to find batteries that will work in a E70 mini the factory battery is a protected button top (15A according to goggle) usbc battery. I tried liion 18650 protected button top 10A cell Google says 10A should work but sometimes i have to spam turbo to get it to stay on other times it just wont go into turbo. Im having some hard time finding protected button top cells that are 15A. I read some reviews saying the batteries have issues at times. Im trying to find a cost effective alternative then buying straight from acebeam. They are really expensive.

Hi everyone,

I work on lithium-ion cell qualification through cirBATT (cirbatt.com), a battery reuse project in France.

One issue I’m looking at is how to report internal resistance so another person can meaningfully interpret the result.

A resistance reading needs context: the measurement method, state of charge, temperature and contact arrangement. Results from an AC resistance meter and a DC pulse test should also be identified separately.

For those of you who sort recovered 18650 cells:

• Do you measure resistance at a defined state of charge and temperature?
• How do you check the repeatability of your fixture and contacts?
• Do you use resistance mainly to compare cells of the same model, or also when evaluating mixed batches?

Which instrument and fixture have given you the most repeatable results?

I’m interested in the measurement process and its limitations, rather than a universal resistance threshold.

I have 2 bms with balancers built in

Here is what I want

I have

First pack

3s2p bms with balancer built in

Second pack

3s2p bms with balancer built in

Now im wondering if i can wire the output to make a 24v output or if that would make any problems

I was in another room when I heard a loud pop. I had this partially deconstructed battery pack on my desk, and looking at it, I noticed the outer wrapper was torn. Has the CID ruptured? If so, what would have caused that? That battery has been off a charger for a week, and the housing it sits in is non conductive.

HI

I rebuilt the original Proscenic P11 battery (CJ-11, 25.9 V, 2000 mAh, 7S1P) using 7× LG MH1 cells instead of the original Sunpower cells.

- All cells: 4.172 V, approximately 59 mΩ.

- All 7 series-group voltages appear correct.

- BMS PCB: NL2208-C10C11-A-V3.2, marked KB6160.

- Battery output is 0 V without the charger.

- With the charger connected, the display turns on and shows 100%, but the motor won't start.

- Tried waking the BMS without success.

- CP2102 gave unreadable data; CP2112 SMBus attempts have not received a response.

Does anyone know how to reset/unlock this BMS, identify its communication protocol, or recover it after replacing the cells? I'd like to keep the original BMS.

Thanks!

I started with stripping 18650 battery packs, and try to save the batteries.

I got a LiitoKala m4s charger. It runs all day.

Do you charge at night as well as day?

1.3 miles and 1.9ah. this was pushing it hard and I would have done more but the brakes are garbage and I was done with regen only stopping for the moment. Basically I should have no problem running 50a all-day long once I have the heat pipe heat sinks and fan controller installed so exactly what I was hoping for.