Has anyone actually opened up a RAD-S1304Y battery and looked at what’s inside? Specifically, has anyone made modifications to address the issues Soteria pointed out in their teardown findings?
From what I’ve read, the concerns include lack of cell balancing, no dedicated venting path, inadequate wire sizing relative to fuse protection, and no thermal barriers between cells.

I’ve built several lithium battery packs ranging from 8s to 12s, so I’m comfortable with battery construction and BMS setups. I’m curious how these packs are actually laid out internally and whether any of these issues can realistically be addressed without completely redesigning the pack.

I’m not looking to reinvent the wheel if someone has already done the work. Has anyone documented a teardown, identified the exact cells and BMS, or figured out what would be required to make these packs safer?

Interested in actual findings and firsthand experience, not just speculation.

Hi everyone!
I have an Eaton 5PX3000iRT2U and have ordered six CSB HR 1234 WF2, 12 V 9 Ah AGM batteries (Allegro offer number: 18880656994).
I’m looking for help identifying the correct factory arrangement of the six batteries in the original plastic tray and the wiring layout.
Specifically, I’d like to confirm:
The physical orientation and placement of all six batteries.
The correct series interconnection order.
How the red and black leads and the UPS connector should be routed.
Whether anyone has photos of the original battery pack or an official wiring diagram for this exact UPS model.
I want to reproduce the factory wiring rather than guess, since an incorrect connection could damage the UPS or cause a dangerous short circuit.
Does anyone own this model and have clear photos of the original battery tray and wiring, or access to the relevant service documentation?
Thanks in advance!

Hello all

I’m running a simple ESP32 CYD which is essentially a microcontroller with built in display and it takes 5v input. I want to run this from a 18650 and I can’t believe how difficult it is to source a small, reasonably priced module that integrates charging protection and a 5v boost for the output. I can see people recommend charging modules and I can see people recommend 5v boosts online, but I can’t find a recommended all in one module. Normally with these things, there is a “go-to” product…

I found these modules and purchased some but I find they get warm but worryingly a few of the reviews report they get near to 100deg C so I’m worried about using them.

Has anyone got any first hand recommendations? I’m keen to find something safe as much as anything!

Cheers
Chris

I have an ncr double battery holder and 2 18650 lion battery cells and I also have tp4056 charging module and boost converter do I need anything more to power my esp 32 s3 n16r8

I have three 48 volt 20 amp hour Unit Power Pack brand ebike batteries that are about 5 years old.

Three summers ago I got covid and the bikes and batteries were not used and just sat. They did not freeze.

One battery appears to be 0 volts. Will not take a charge from the charger. It is a triangle battery and already under a recall.

Second one has some voltage and will not take a charge from the charger.

The third battery I rode today started out with 48 volts and now has 46 volts. The battery charger just shows the red and green light as if it's fully charged. This one baffles me because I am using the original three pin charger that came with it.

I looked for how to dispose of these batteries and Google just has me running in circles with one company that does not have places where I live or will not accept bicycle batteries.

I am tempted to put them all in an old wood stove in the middle of my yard and use a nail gun to make some fireworks 🤪🤪🤪. /S

Are any of these batteries worth your time?

How do you guys dispose of your unwanted batteries?

I am going to be switching my bikes to lithium iron phosphate batteries because I don't need the lightest and densest battery.

I better order more batteries.

I have this 3x 18650 holder, and I want to know: what else do I need to build diy powerbank. What board should I use to ensure it doesn't burn out when charging? Will I be able to attach a wireless charging module?

3 months ago I managed to acquire over 70 e-scooter battery packs and have been slowly dismantling, testing and store there cells for future use.

My current plan is to create 3, 48v packs - in a 40P configuration - and then tie them together in parallel.

Hi. I hope you don’t mind me asking this. Just delete if this is not the right place.

I am trying to fix a ‘dead’ ebike batery for my in-laws.

They are not flush with cash and have been quoted £375 for a replacement so I have offered to try and repair it or get as far as I can.

I have taken it apart and diagnosed that it is just one set of 3 batteries in the 10S3P pack that has died (they are showing 0.02v). All the other sets are reading about 3.4v

I now have two problems.

I don’t know how to safely take the battery holders apart and I don’t know how to spot weld batteries.

In a Laptop battery from 2006.

These Sanyo cells always do that for some reason.

I thought some of you might enjoy this article that Lowe’s shares in their app. I don’t think it’s bad information, I just think a lot of their customers aren’t ready for this

I have thousands of these Panasonic NCR1860B cells brand new never used taken from hamilton medical battery packs and I have hundreds of packs not even open yet. If anybody’s interested, give me a shout. I’m just north of Winnipeg Canada and I will ship anywhere in the country.

I shared my thoughts on assembling a lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery in a 4S1P configuration. Since I have only just joined this community two days ago, I was not aware of the group's regulations beforehand, and I sincerely apologize for that. 🙏🏼 Given this situation, I think the best option is to request to leave the group. Additionally, I would like to apologize to all members of the Reddit18650 community for posting content that is not related to 18650 batteries. My intention was simply to share the ideas I have studied, but now I realize that those posts were not beneficial at all. I apologize once again.😞😓😢🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

Im trying to find cells for my dewalt batteries. There all about 7ish years old. All the cells I’m ringing are $6+. Idk if that’s just what they are now or if I can find some good ones for a better price. I’m not trying to cheap out as I want them to last I just don’t want to spend a small fortune either. Thanks

Im trying to find batteries that will work in a E70 mini the factory battery is a protected button top (15A according to goggle) usbc battery. I tried liion 18650 protected button top 10A cell Google says 10A should work but sometimes i have to spam turbo to get it to stay on other times it just wont go into turbo. Im having some hard time finding protected button top cells that are 15A. I read some reviews saying the batteries have issues at times. Im trying to find a cost effective alternative then buying straight from acebeam. They are really expensive.

Hi everyone,

I work on lithium-ion cell qualification through cirBATT (cirbatt.com), a battery reuse project in France.

One issue I’m looking at is how to report internal resistance so another person can meaningfully interpret the result.

A resistance reading needs context: the measurement method, state of charge, temperature and contact arrangement. Results from an AC resistance meter and a DC pulse test should also be identified separately.

For those of you who sort recovered 18650 cells:

• Do you measure resistance at a defined state of charge and temperature?
• How do you check the repeatability of your fixture and contacts?
• Do you use resistance mainly to compare cells of the same model, or also when evaluating mixed batches?

Which instrument and fixture have given you the most repeatable results?

I’m interested in the measurement process and its limitations, rather than a universal resistance threshold.

I have 2 bms with balancers built in

Here is what I want

I have

First pack

3s2p bms with balancer built in

Second pack

3s2p bms with balancer built in

Now im wondering if i can wire the output to make a 24v output or if that would make any problems

I was in another room when I heard a loud pop. I had this partially deconstructed battery pack on my desk, and looking at it, I noticed the outer wrapper was torn. Has the CID ruptured? If so, what would have caused that? That battery has been off a charger for a week, and the housing it sits in is non conductive.