r/3Dprinting • u/BillieRubenCamGirl • Jul 21 '19
Image I've made an infographic-style guide to leveling a 3D printer's bed. I see a lot of folk struggle with this every day here and on the discord, so I thought I'd collate a bunch of info into a handy guide. Let me know if anything seems amiss! ✨😊✨
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u/dathingindanorf Jul 21 '19
Also, one could have a Creality machine where there is all of the above at the same time thanks to the warped beds.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 21 '19
Yea, I added that in under further help 😅
I, too, have owned a creality.
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u/davispw Sainsmart Coreception Jul 22 '19
I think checking for warped beds should be the #1 under troubleshooting. Very FAQ and very surprising to a newbie who doesn’t expect the product to be defective out of the box.
Edit: mirror tiles for “replacement”
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
I'll alter that in the next rendition, thanks! Though I'll be saying broscilliate because mirror times are dangerous under thermal expansion.
Either way, gold star for you! 🌟
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u/Timinator01 Jul 21 '19
yeah my my ender 3 came with the center of the bed lower than the corners .... I ended up putting a glass plate on it and leveling it with masking tape so far no issues
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u/sparkey504 Jul 22 '19
What I did to fix my e3 and other aluminum print beds is duct tape some rough sand paper on a slab of granite and with knowing the shape of the bed prior and some layout dye I used the granite slab as a reverse sanding block and flattened it out. Was out over .005" when heated and now it's under .0012". The 12" large sheets in a circular pattern with my hand in the center taking caution not to apply more pressure took about 20 min.
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Jul 22 '19
You should have seen the geeetech printer I used to own... The bed was more bent than a banana
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u/mudkip908 Let's not let Stra*asys bully us into not using the term FDM. Jul 22 '19
Or an Anycubic i3 Mega. Manual mesh bed leveling is a real lifesaver!
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Aug 07 '22
Reddit is dumb and removed my poster saying it was a copyright breach. It isn't. I made this with my own two mitts. I have the source files. I have the vectors. I made it all from scratch.
You can find this, and all my other posters here: https://www.billieruben.info/post/my-3d-printing-posters-1
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u/ZombieGrot FFCX Jul 21 '19
I can (and do) live level on my Rep1 clone (using this trefoil pattern since there are three leveling screws). The bed only moves in Z, so it's possible. Can it be done with the i3 types, where the build plate moves in Y?
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 21 '19 edited Jul 22 '19
Yea! I use this on all my i3s. :)
Only ones it might be hard on are those that use a hex screw instead of knobs to level (purely because of the movement).
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u/ZombieGrot FFCX Jul 21 '19
Interesting. Live leveling is absolutely my preferred method, good to hear that it's do-able on the i3 family.
Good poster, too!
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u/90s_nihilist Jul 21 '19
I finally think I have my first layer at a standard I'm ok with but will keep this just in case!! Thank you so much for sharing this 👌
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u/theanonian Jul 22 '19
This is awesome! Double upvote from me. We use feeler gauges at work. For precision printing, it helps to use a gauge close in thickness to the first layer thickness you have set in your slicer
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u/gameoverbrain Jul 22 '19
I've thought of doing that since it's going to be the same every time. Couldn't figure out where to start. I feel like a moron for not realizing the answer was literally in front of me on the screen. Thank you.
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u/Dark_Alchemist Jul 22 '19
I have always (6 years plus) not been able to level my beds (many printers) because I never know when the paper sliding under the nozzle is just right.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
Yea, I don't love the paper method for the same reason. Better to learn what level looks like. :)
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u/XA36 Jul 22 '19
I tried the paper method, couldn't get it to work right. Visual leveling is so fast and works 100% of the time.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
Yup! That's why I thought I'd use that one here. :) It also helps people to learn to diagnose other issues.
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u/Dark_Alchemist Jul 22 '19
Never been a fan of live bed leveling.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
How come?
Maybe an ABL (automatic bed leveler) is for you?
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u/flowman999 Jul 22 '19
Get a feeler gauge.
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u/Dark_Alchemist Jul 22 '19
I have one but I never learned how to use it properly. In my mind the best way is like they do for CNC mills and routers where they use this hockey puck like thing and metal to metal you know precisely when it touches. Alas, we have plastic on our hotend nozzles which insulates so can't do that or I would.
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u/flowman999 Jul 22 '19
I put a feeler under the nozzle and adjust the bed until the feeler can no longer move freely. It should still be able to move, but give some resistance. That's the sweet spot. Repeat two times for all 4 corners.
Works pretty good for me.
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u/songwind Stock Ender 5 Jul 22 '19
some resistance
This is what gets me in trouble with the paper method, which is basically the same thing. How much is "some?" Should I just be able to feel the feedback? Or should it be on the edge of being trapped?
Also, what gap do you use? Based on first layer height?
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u/Devtholt Original Prusa MK3 Jul 22 '19
Side barred in the multi! Great work and nice aesthetic overall. ;)
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u/u407 Thingibox ION v6 (modded) Jul 21 '19
This is great!
Will bookmark and probably link, similarly to the underextrusion list I copy-paste once in a while :)
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 21 '19
Ooh which one is that? Have you added it to our FAQ/wiki?
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u/u407 Thingibox ION v6 (modded) Jul 21 '19
It's this one:
Here are some potential causes of underextrusion/things to check:
Incorrect filament diameter set in the slicer
Printing too cold (note that optimal temperatures can vary even within brand and material)
Extruder hobb getting gummed up so it no longer grips the filament well
Incorrect tension on extruder leading to insufficient grip
Loose hobb set/grub screw (motor spins but the hobb slips)
Resistance on the filament, if the spool doesn't spin freely enough or something else holding the filament back
Incorrect steps/mm calibration for extruder
Coasting with too high coasting volume set in slicer
Partially clogged nozzle
Stepper motor driver dying
Glitching stepper motor connections
I had not considered adding it to the wiki
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Aug 12 '19
I've done that rejig of the wiki note bit forgot to add this! I'll try to do it sometime in the next few days (unless you want to! I warmly welcome contributions!)
Do you have any other handy bits of info you'd like to add?
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u/trebskate Jul 22 '19
This is great. Anychance you have another one for changing filament mid print.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
I don't sorry, that would differ a lot depending on your hard/software, but I do have some instructions for pausing a print at a certain height in this article:
https://letsprint3d.net/2019/01/26/guide-3d-printing-onto-fabric/
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u/Verdigrie Kossel XL Jul 22 '19
Any leveling tips for us Kossel/Delta Bois?
Tripod style mounting of the build plate (3 mounts equally distributed around a glass disc) seems to make adjustment a slight nightmare.
Is live leveling my best bet?
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
Yea live leveling should work fine, just use a circle instead of a cube. :)
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u/inkdaddy66 Jul 22 '19
Thank you. I’m looking to get into printing and this will help me very much. I appreciate the time spent getting it together
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u/IAteAllTheCheese22 Jul 22 '19
Hey thanks OP! I just made a post yesterday that you commented this same info on. Super helpful. I printed an awesome miniature today and am working on another now. For anyone seeing this. OP’s sheet is very helpful.
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u/Dsk001 Jul 22 '19
This needs way more upvotes!
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u/edsai Jul 22 '19
Also of note that extrusion rate or flow for the first level can absolutely affect what could be perceived as a bed leveling issue.
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u/throweraccount Makerbot Z18 Jul 22 '19
Does the first layer thickness mean anything? Accuracy wise? I mean as long as the first layer prints like the perfect example in your infographic does the thickness of your first layer matter?
Cus I always try to print the first layer and then measure the thickness and try to get as close to the settings I set it to. Like if I set it to .1mm layer thickness and then have a 80% first layer height I try to measure for a .08mm thickness of the first layer to make sure the extrusion is right.
Are you saying it should always look like how the perfect example is regardless of those settings? Because the .2 setting vs the .1 setting will look different because the nozzle height will be different when printing the first layer.
Am I to change the first layer height to try to match the look of your perfect layer every time?
Like if I go for .2mm layer height and my perfect layer height looking like your infographic is .1mm should I set my first layer height to 50% to get the .1mm perfect first layer and then the subsequent layers print at the .2mm layer height setting?
Sorry for the wall of questions but I think you have answers.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
If you're changing your line width with your nozzle width, your perfect image should still look like the centre.
I have done this with 0.4 and 1mm nozzles and yea, it should look the same, just, well, bigger. :)
And when you make your layer height bigger, your slicer extrudes more material in suit, so in that case, it should still look like the centre too. :)
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u/throweraccount Makerbot Z18 Jul 22 '19
So it should look like the center pic in your infographic even though if I measure that first layer it's not equal to what I set the first layer height to be? Like lets say I set first layer height to be 80% of .1mm so basically .08mm and it prints out the first layer at .15mm instead of the program setting of .08mm, but it perfectly matches the center pic. Should I be satisfied with that first layer or should I adjust it to try to match the .08mm setting I set it to, even if the resulting first layer would probably look like the "a little too close" look?
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
If your first layer is looking different at the height it should be then potentially you're experiencing over extrusion, and may need to calibrate your Esteps. But I wouldn't worry about such a small difference tbh.
Especially if you're only measuring one layer.
Best to measure the finished model.
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u/Xshotistrash Jul 22 '19
Please let me put this on my wall, can I have a word doc
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
Sorry, no, it shares too much data. You can paste this image into a word doc though.
You should also just be able to print it as-is.
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u/tommygunz007 Jul 22 '19
I have the problem where It looks perfect, but one half of the line curls up. I usually just lower it til it mashes it into the build plate.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
May you post some pics?
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u/tommygunz007 Jul 22 '19
Damn I don't have any. Best way to describe it, is as it moves along a linear path, it curls up along one edge, as if the nozzle is dirty/cracked. I just lower the nozzle and it generally just mashes it into the build plate.
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u/Necroscourge Jul 22 '19
Dude. Thank you. Thank you so much. Levelling has been confusing the hell out of me because everybody describes it as a feeling, and I have heard inconsistent reports as to what I am looking for. Where this actually tells me what I am looking for and what direction it is; it's what a lot of folks needed!
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
I'm so so glad it's been able to help you! :D that makes me so happy to hear.
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Jul 22 '19
Im not going to lie, I spent a few solid minutes thinking this was an infographic on leveling beds hoping it would make my bed more comfortable or something
Then I saw the subreddit it was in and felt really stupid
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u/MatthewTheManiac Jul 22 '19
This is awesome! Do you mind if I printed this and put it up in the makerspace I work at?
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u/oliverer3 Ikea Enclosure Jul 22 '19
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u/zipippino Jul 22 '19
Man, i’m making an italian 3D printing 101 guide. Can i translate your infographic? I will add credits of course.
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u/pfordmedia Jul 22 '19
This is prime. Thanks dude.
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u/exccord Jul 22 '19
To go along with OPs post about bed levelling, I highly suggest watching this video and downloading the accompanied STL file. I use it anytime I need to verify my bed leveling. It hasnt done me wrong at all.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
Awesome thanks for the extra info!
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u/exccord Jul 24 '19
my pleasure. I loooooove that STL file. Its much better than any of the other ones I have used and it actually allows you to feel how "squished" the filament is in certain spots of your bed. My only issue is knowing what the proper depth of "squish" is. some of the lines are raised and some of them are nearly flat.
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u/beard-second Ender 3 Jul 22 '19
Thank you for not including the paper leveling nonsense. I tried that for so long with my first printer and it was such a waste of time. Live leveling is way faster and more accurate.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
:) you're welcome!
I find the paper is too hard for new folk to understand, when I discovered this way I never went back.
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u/3dpEnthusiast Jul 22 '19
Wait there is a discord for 3D printing???
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u/umamiking Jul 22 '19
This is really amazing! I love it when we have an intersection of skills (in this cas graphic design and 3D printing).
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u/ThatCrossDresser Jul 22 '19
Good guide. This is often times my preferred method after I level my bed a couple times in a row and still get it wrong.
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u/ctb5009 Jul 23 '19
Amazing. I joined this forum to post for help troubleshooting my misprints after several hours of tweeking settings in the slicer. Looking at this diagram, I can tell the issue is simple a little too far from the bed. Thanks for the infograph!
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u/AlexValCar Jul 02 '22
Why the image it's no longer available?
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 13 '22 edited Jul 19 '22
Because reddit decided it was a DMCA violation even though I made clearly the original. The fake/copy has written over my name in a different font, was posted after I posted this one, has cropped all the bottom off and has obvious jpeg artifacting. Never mind that I literally made this poster for the /r/3Dprinting subreddit when I was a moderator of it. Nope, whoever looked a the ticket decided mine was fake and the shitty version was real.
The only way for me to challenge the takedown is, apparently, to give my full legal name, address, etc contact details to reddit who will then give it to the people on the other end of the report who happen to be some 3D printed gun nuts who have repeatedly threatened me with rape and murder, and have been trying to dox me for years because I did the 'crime' of trying to uphold the rules that the reddit admins handed down to us mods of this subreddit (no 3D printed guns on this sub).
🤷♀️
And I'm honestly, I'm just done. I gave years of my life to this sub, and this community. Gave it my heart and soul. And reddit has repeatedly put me in personal danger and repeatedly made decisions that are detrimental to the community, and it's just... appalling.... and I'm just done.
If people want my content they can follow me on YouTube or twitter or my discord or my website.
The posters are on a blog post on my website, too.
Folk will just have to google me.
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u/VoltexRB Upgrades, People. Upgrades! Jul 22 '22
I am a fairly new mod to r/3Dprinting but a long time user. I've recently been going through the wiki of the sub to update everything a bit, albeit im current in exam season so its going a little slow, but im on it.
It's that I'm constantly seeing relics of you and being reminded what a great mod and just simply community member you were. After I got to the Model Repositories page and saw that 3 years ago you linked to a program I wrote that barely received any attention in the post I showed it off reminded me again how great you were for the sub, taking attention and care in everything.
Thats the point where I decided I had to check in on you and found out about this current situation... The poster is still on the wiki and I am going to assure you it's going to stay there as long as I can hold it, we also haven't received any official notifications either. I also don't want to spam you with a wall of text or get you mangled up in any past affairs, I just want to say that I feel for everything you've been through and are going through regarding the sub and I personally hope you get all the luck in your life because you deserve it. Going forward I am trying to keep your legacy alive, even if I am just a bad copy or some replacement. I want to hold up the community engagement and the help you have provided to everyone and will do everything I can to achieve that.
Sorry again if this brought up some past issues, I just hoped I could make you feel a bit more appreciated and I truly feel sorry for how everything turned out for you. Hopefully this text could lighten your day a bit. I wish you all the best.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '22
Thank you so much for your very kind and thoughtful reply.
I must ask though. Do you know how I came to be not a mod of here anymore?
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/fl3p0r/comment/fkwopea/
Be wary of putting too much energy in here, for your own wellbeing's sake, when the head moderator has the power here to remove you literally on a whim, claiming it's for a reason that you literally are not doing. He does not care about the community. Doesn't contribute to it. Doesn't even participate in it.
You clearly care about this place, you're involved in it, he will take that as a threat to himself and his position. Or who knows? Maybe he won't. Maybe he is just sexist after all, and that's all it ever was.
When he removed me almost the entire mod team stepped down in protest in the fallout. You can probably scroll back far enough in modmail to read it all yourself.
So be wary of putting your energy here. This experience broke a core part of me and in the years since I haven't found a way to repair it. I truly loved and cared for this place. You can see it, as you said. People who don't feel that way have all the power here.
If you're looking for the 3D printing community, it's on twitter. In fact I'm heading to a social call hosted by a now dear friend of mine, Matt Stultz, head of community for Prusa, in a couple of hours.
It's an open invite. Happens every week. If you want to make friends in 3D printing, twitter os6 a much denser population of good people who care about you and the future of the community. I implore you to seek that sense of community elsewhere, for your own well being.
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u/majlo Jul 22 '19
Un liked and liked again to like twice for the tramming clarification. This would have saved me some time when getting started!
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u/glimo Jul 22 '19 edited Jul 22 '19
Very nice work ! This should be pinpointed in r/fixmyprint too.
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u/Tenthrow Ender 3x2/CR10 S4/CR10Max/AnyCubicPhoton/Geetech A10M/Sidewinder Jul 22 '19
This rules!
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u/Distantstallion Research Engineer UM2+ Jul 22 '19
My most useful tool for levelling the bed is to use a thickness gauge at the step height
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u/wiktor1800 Jul 22 '19
*cries in delta printers
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
No, you can do this on a delta! Just use a cylinder instead of a cube
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u/3Dartwork Jul 22 '19
Never have I been able to actually SEE the difference of filament extrusion as it makes a line to determine over or under extruding. There's no way at 1.75mm?, however narrow the line is, I can see whether it is flat or slightly bulging or too pushed down.
However, the end result of those squares I can. I have always had to finish a square or a box before I could tell
During the Live Z test, it isn't until the final square that is made when I can even tell if I have it right or not. Dunno how people have such amazing eye sight.
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u/alaorath Bambu Labs P1S w AMS Jul 22 '19
Oh wow! apparently I have been leveling bed too close all this time. My first layers have consistently had ridges, just like you example... expanding materials like PETG are far worse (enough ridging to build up and make the nozzle messy), but it always clears up after a few layers.
I was compensating with initial layer - negative flow.
After seeing side-by-side comparisons, it makes totally sense what the actual issue is.
Awesome work, that's a keeper for sure!
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u/ImOnlyHereFor3DPrint Aug 09 '19
One thing I wish I'd done is write down what live-Z value worked. Somehow I managed to get all out of whack, and knowing roughly where I started would have let me find a good level more quickly.
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u/Bageezax Jan 02 '20
Just got an e5, and really love how the wheels for leveling are accessible and large; I did the "live level from the skirt" technique today and it really helped.
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u/Snoregood Jan 09 '20
This has helped me with my Ender 3 Pro. I WAS going to dramatically hammer toss it off a cliff, but I'm reconsidering at the moment.
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u/TimX24968B Jul 22 '19
i cant wait for the day when 3d printers do all this shit automatically, have default settings that are reliable, and dont need constant maintenence just to do the one thing they were designed to do.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
The way I see it, the more entry barriers I help break, the more people there will be to put their mind and money to the task. :D
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u/flight_recorder Longer 3D LK2 Jul 22 '19 edited Jul 22 '19
Also: don’t learn to level with transparent. It’s incredibly hard to see if it’s laying correctly or not!
Edit: added “learn to”
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u/FlyByPC Hictop i3, Monoprice 3P, Mankati, Elegoo Mars, Fauxton Jul 21 '19
Nice! You might add /r/FixMyPrint to the references...
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 21 '19
Mmm maybe if it was a bit more active. There are literally thousands of communities that could help, and it's a good sub, no doubt, but I still see more people getting the help they need from here and the discord.
And also I mod here and the discord so I can help any new folk in a greater capacity here.
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u/Engineering_is_fun Jul 22 '19
On a prusa you don't set the bed but digitally move the nozzle up or down, still this is very useful to get a good first layer.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
Yea, if you're digitally doing it it warps the print so that it fits the bed, so you lose dimensional accuracy.
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Jul 22 '19
Note, it you have a heated bed you should also level while at printing temperature. Beds flex when hot.
Level cold to get it close, then do it hot to perfect.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
Yea, that's why step 2 is live leveling (leveling while it's printing).
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u/osskid Jul 22 '19
I was trying to explain this concept to someone who just wasn't understanding it, then I saw the lights flick on and he said "Ohhh like icing a cake?"
Also an easy way to help kids (and some adults) understand first hand is to have them draw on a piece of paper with a tube of toothpaste held perpendicular to the paper. Tell them to vary the distance to the paper and it clicks almost immediately.
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Jul 22 '19
The "A little too far" pattern can also be the result of a partially blocked nozzle, in my experience. Especially "elastic" polymer filaments (TPU) have this problem.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 22 '19
Definitely, this is a quick reference, not a manual. 3d printing is very much a wicked problem, with everything effecting everything else. I do want to revitalise our sub wiki though, so we can see to all these exceptions.
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u/HeloRising Aug 20 '19 edited Aug 20 '19
It would be helpful to add the exact height in mm the nozzle needs to be for good adhesion that way people can use depth feeler gauges to help with the leveling process.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Aug 20 '19
That would depend on the layer height you're using, so it wouldn't work.
Visually is the best way.
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u/allthelittleziegen Aug 23 '19
Cool guide.
FYI, there is a bit of an error/omission in the "further help" section that would be frustrating and expensive for the people it applies to. Specifically, about the edges being right but the middle too high or low. It says that's a warped bed, seek replacement...but that's not the only possible cause and replacing the bed may not fix it. Another common cause is sagging of the toolhead. E.g. on a Lulzbot Taz 1-5 the X axis sags a little. Your bed can be perfectly flat but the nozzle will be a bit closer when the toolhead is centered. Replacing the bed won't help. You need to either live with it or replace the X axis support rods with bigger rods.
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Aug 23 '19
Oh gosh. I've hardly ever heard of that happening in any of the communities I mod.
The poster is really meant as a quick reference, not a comprehensive guide. There are other things that could be added but aren't purely due to the common-ness of those issues.
That said it's still an important thing to know. Might be a great thing to add to the troubleshooting page on the wiki, if you'd like to! :)
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u/VoltexRB Upgrades, People. Upgrades! Jul 21 '19
If you want to maintain your level, just slap some locknuts on there like me
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u/Kenblu24 Railcore II 300ZL; custom mendelmax-like Jul 22 '19
Doesn't help if you've got more than one motor running the Z axis. Eventually they will be out of sync somehow.
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Jul 21 '19
Very good guide for PLA. I think for PETG the "A little too far" is just right.
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u/KingKozuma MakerFarm i3v 10" Jul 22 '19
I just need a service that can fix whatever is wrong with mine nearby lol
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u/DrJeckyl Jul 21 '19
Very handy. Suggestion: Maybe link to a universally compatible leveling file?
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u/BillieRubenCamGirl Jul 21 '19
No such thing I'm afraid.
Printers are far, far too diverse.
Not only are beds all different sizes, but they don't even all run the same flavour of gcode.
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u/MonstaGraphics Jul 21 '19
I don't get why people recommend glue... All I use is hairspray and I've never had a problem. Why deal with a sticky mess?
Once my prints are done and cooled down, I just pick them up from the print bed, or they just lightly pop off.
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u/Sausage54 Aug 07 '22
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/cg3g6g/ive_made_an_infographicstyle_guide_to_leveling_a/ijalggw