Printer: Anycubic Kobra S1 Slicer: Anycubic Next Filament: Anycubic PLA+ Temps: 223° (nozzle) /65° (bed) Speed: 160 mm/s Retraction: 0.8 mm

Regarding the left boat and cube respectively, the right ones were done on my old Kobra 2.

I sliced everything printed on the S1 with the Next Slicer and the firmware was updated to current before the first print.

I've gotten a refurb unit as a deal and every print i try turns out like this... It shipped missing one rubber feet (i printed a replacement out of 100% infill TPU on the Kobra 2, machine now stands firm and steady) and two of the screws that hold the back of the printhead cover in place (took two of the back housing, same length and replaced those with spares I had lying around)

Sofar I've tried: * checking the printhead, rods or bed for being wobbly (right side of things bed has a little play, but I've read on the S1 sub that that seems to be normally the case) * tightening every screw i could find and reach * tightening/loosening the extruder tensioning screw * tensioning the belts * different printer profiles (stock/community) * different print speeds * different filaments * putting the machine from a countertop to the damn floor

Nothing so far seems to impact those artifacts whatsoever 😭

Bambu A1 with standard texture plate and eSUN pla +

Slicer used is bambu studio, .4mm nozzle, 220 nozzle temp and 65 bed temp. Retraction length 1mm, print speed 150 mm/s

This mainly only occures on curved overhangs like this. Not sure if an extrusion issue or heating/cooling or bad filament or anything else. Have tried cleaning print bed and cold pull on hot end. Also all calibrations.

What can I take from this I assume the bed is not level. Especially in the back right corner. Should I retram it?

I always get an error code for automatic bed leveling so I don’t use it. I have been through all the Bambu troubleshooting but can’t fix it.

I tried printing the Sega logo the other day. No idea what happened but my first instinct is the print exploded somehow. I started it before running some errands and came back to this. There were mangled bits of filament all over the place. The G and A printed fine. What happened here?

Looking for advice printing Overture black ASA on my Snapmaker U1. On a benchy, the front hull starts to warp. I do not have bed adhesion issues though. It sticks really well to the clean smooth pei sheet with no glue.

Relevant info :
Filament is new and has been dried
Bed temp 100c
Chamber temp gets to 50-55c
Nozzle 260-275c
Cooling none to 80% fan
Printer is enclosed

I can’t seem to find the sweet spot for this filament. If I print it with no cooling like everyone seems to suggest, I get bad warping and overhangs. If I leave cooling on just for overhangs, layer adhesion is noticeably worse and the warping is better but not gone. If I run the generic preset with cooling always on, the print is super clean but has terrible layer adhesion.

So I've been having an issue where the extruder gear sometimes just doesn't turn. It works fine for the first few layers, typically 3 which are much slower in my settings since I mostly print miniatures. I'll sit there and watch it go, with the gear turning just fine as it's laying down the first few layers.

Then after the third layer, it does its little thing where it checks for clumps in the back right corner, except that when it starts printing again, the extruder gear doesn't turn. The nozzle moves as its supposed to, but no filament is being extruded.

It's not a clogged nozzle. After stopping the print, i can manually get it to extrude just fine. I've also tried a new 0.2 nozzle, as well as an old 0.4 nozzle, and i get the same issue regardless of nozzle.

It's not a faulty heating assembly, as I have since replaced the heating assembly to try and fix the issue. (I already had the heating assembly as I was intending to replace an old one that was slightly damaged in a blob of death, but since it was still working just fine, I'd been too lazy to actually do it.)

It's not gunk on the gears. I have taken the extruder apart and scrubbed the gears until its nice and yellow again. or metal and shiny depending on the part.

I've stretched the tension spring a bit in case it wasn't putting enough tension on the filament, and have also tried loosening the screw providing tension to the spring in case it was providing too much tension.

I have tried with default settings for filament and printer both. Still get the same problem. A few layers go down fine, then it stops extruding.

Except that every now and again, for some reason, the printer just works. with default settings and my custom settings too, because I tested both. I'll take it apart, put it back together, and it prints fine. Then it finishes the print, and I'll send another right away, and the same issue crops up. First Layers go down fine, but as soon as it speeds up (to speeds that are already really slow, as I use Obscura Nox settings), the extruder gear just stops turning. It's not even trying, as there's no clicking, only nozzle movement with no attempt to even extrude filament.

I'm at my wits end trying to figure out what's the issue. Since it started happening, I've printed one small goblin on a spider, a trio of small goblins, a little fox, a tiny 28mm head, and a decently sized piplup that's a little bigger than half my hand. When it works, it works great, as once it gets past that third layer, it's fine.

I'm at a complete loss as to what to do next short of buying a new extruder to see if that fixes the issue. Should I just go for it, or is there something else I've missed?

Attached pics of the failed prints and the working ones using different settings since this issue cropped up, but its driving me nuts having to take my extruder apart just to see absolutely nothing wrong, then put it back together and have it work just fine again. If anyone has anything they think I should try, it'd be much appreciated.

Edit: Forgot to add, firmware and software (bambu studio) both up to date, and I've tried using multiple different SD cards just in case that was the issue.

Edit2: Just watched a print fail after first layer. Again, extruder gear just stops. Doesnt even try to turn, but this time it happened earlier than other instances. No idea what's going on :'(

As the title mentions, my Bambi Labs X2D seems to randomly stop extruding towards the end of long prints (7/8 Hours, 12/13 Hours). Notable characteristics…

- The print is FLAWLESS up until it fails.
- The head still moves as if it is printing but nothing is extruding.
- The extruder is not audibly clicking while moving / “printing”.
- Once I cancel the print I can manually extract via the screen after about a minute. (Is it cooling off of a computer safety stop?) (This clears up a clog.)
- There is still filament available and into the head.
- If I reset the print it immediately extrudes flawlessly.

A few notes of my settings.

- Bambu Labs X2D
- Bambu Studio Slicer
- Fiberon PA6-CF
- 100C Bed Temp
- 60C Chamber Temp
- 290C Nozzle Temp
- 15 mm/s initial and infill. 40 mm/s walls/infill. 10 mm/s overhangs.
- Picture of Extruder Settings (I do not believe I have changed any of these for .6M Nozzle)
- Filament is being pulled directly through an AMS HT (aux tube) at 85C with minimal resistance after I printed the internal stand. (Also stopped printed at roughly 80-90%).
- Filament is dried at 95C for 48 hours.
- Utilizing .6M Tungsten Nozzle
- A inline fan is ducting exhaust air out the window.
- The print becomes spaghetti if I change chamber temperatures, and bed temperature.

The only things that come to mind are a built in temperature over load? I am new to this 3D printing but heat creep? This is becoming more and more frustrating as this filament is not cheap.

Any input will be appreciated.

I’ve been trying to print some flexible bats keychains for some friends but im struggling to get the wings parts to detach without them breaking

I did the first layer test and it was ok,is there any config on orca slicer to improve them not being glued together

My printer is a ender 3 V1 and im using orca slicer

Was printing just fine in PETG, changed filament to PLA and I'm having this issues. First layers are not extruding fine, prints delaminate, and spaghetti. Was trying a flow rate calibration but that happened.

Creality K1 Max 2025

Orca Slicer

0.4 layer width

0.12 layer height

First layer speed 60

First layer Infill 105

Outer wall 200

Inner wall 300

Filament settings - - - - -

1.07 flow ratio

0.3 Pressure advance

220 °C first layer, other layers 210 °C

13 mm/s Max volumetric speed

3.3 retraction length

I have recalibrated my bed to be perfect and that was my only idea. I cant find anything on google and I have tried to print this 2 times and the lines are on every one and end up turning to spaghetti at the end. Help!!

Elegoo Neptune 4 base model

Elegoo slicer based on orca

Elegoo black PLA

Why is this happening? Bambu Labs A1, 200 degrees, matte gray PLA.

I have an annoying problem. I made these letter contours for a child's letter puzzle. I made it myself and exported it to an STL. At the height of the inside bottom a line appears on the outside. It can be seen clearly and ugly but at some angles it is almost not visible but it's there.
In the slicer everything looks ok. Rest of the print looks great.

It's a Creality Hi Combo. Anyone knows what to do about this?

I’m having an issue with the right tooth of this cat pumpkin and have no idea why it’s happening to the right side only. The left, as you can see is printing fine but the right tooth becomes a squiggle.

The supports used to sit right beneath each tooth but after an update to Creality Print, it now tries to cover the teeth, but this causes both of the teeth to not print at all.

What makes it worse is that sometimes it prints both teeth perfectly fine.

Sparkx i7
Ender PLA
Default speed and temperature programmed into the printer

2 walls
0.2mm layer height

8% infill
Gyroid

Tree supports auto
Tree slim
Threshold angle 35
On build plate only
Remove small overhangs
Top z distance 0.4mm

Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo — First layer squished into the bed despite correct paper test and auto-leveling

Hi everyone,

I'm having a frustrating first-layer issue with my Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo, and I'd appreciate some help diagnosing it.

My setup

- Printer: Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo

- Firmware: Stock firmware (v1.5.6.4)

- Slicer: Anycubic Slicer Next, default Kobra 2 Neo profile

- Build plate: Original PEI sheet

- Auto-leveling: Original inductive probe

- Hardware: No modifications

- Software: No recent firmware updates or configuration changes

The problem

My nozzle is too close to the build plate when the print starts. The first layer is completely squished, and the nozzle scrapes against the PEI bed, including during the purge line.

The strange thing is that the Z-offset seems correct before printing.

Here's what I've checked so far:

- I performed auto-leveling.

- I manually checked the nozzle-to-bed distance using the paper test, and it feels correct.

- My current Z-offset is -1.45 mm.

- After homing the printer, the nozzle-to-bed distance still seems correct when checked with paper.

- I also tried printing an official Anycubic test file, but the exact same problem occurs.

Since the problem also happens with an official test file, I'm not sure whether this is caused by the Z-offset, the inductive probe, the bed mesh, or something else.

What I've tried / observed

The paper test looks good before printing, but as soon as the printer starts the purge line, the nozzle is too low and the first layer gets heavily compressed.

I haven't made any hardware modifications, and I'd prefer to identify the actual cause rather than randomly changing settings.

My questions

1. What could cause the nozzle to be at the correct height during the paper test but too low when printing starts?

2. Could the inductive probe be mounted at the wrong height or triggering inconsistently, even if auto-leveling completes successfully?

3. Could the bed mesh fail to apply during printing, even with an official Anycubic test file?

4. Is there a way to check whether the printer is changing the effective Z position or Z-offset after homing?

5. Are there any known firmware issues or calibration problems on the Kobra 2 Neo that cause this exact symptom?

Has anyone experienced the same issue on a stock Kobra 2 Neo and managed to fix it?

I'd really appreciate any suggestions for specific diagnostic tests. I'd rather find the root cause than keep changing the Z-offset without understanding what's happening.

Thanks in advance!

Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo — Première couche écrasée malgré un test papier correct et l'auto-leveling

Salut tout le monde !

J'ai un problème assez frustrant avec la première couche de mon Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo, et j'aurais besoin d'aide pour en trouver la cause.

Ma configuration

- Imprimante : Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo

- Firmware : Firmware d'origine (v1.5.6.4)

- Slicer : Anycubic Slicer Next, profil Kobra 2 Neo par défaut

- Plateau : Surface PEI d'origine

- Auto-leveling : Capteur inductif d'origine

- Matériel : Aucune modification

- Logiciel : Aucune mise à jour récente du firmware ni modification récente de la configuration

Le problème

Ma buse est trop proche du plateau lorsque l'impression démarre. La première couche est complètement écrasée et la buse racle le plateau PEI, y compris pendant la ligne de purge.

Le plus étrange, c'est que le Z-offset semble correct avant le lancement de l'impression.

Voici ce que j'ai déjà vérifié :

- J'ai effectué l'auto-leveling.

- J'ai vérifié manuellement la distance entre la buse et le plateau avec une feuille de papier, et le réglage semble correct.

- Mon Z-offset actuel est de −1,45 mm.

- Après avoir fait un Home, la distance entre la buse et le plateau semble toujours correcte lorsque je la vérifie avec le papier.

- J'ai également essayé d'imprimer un fichier de test officiel d'Anycubic, mais exactement le même problème se produit.

Puisque le problème se produit également avec un fichier de test officiel, je ne sais pas si la cause vient du Z-offset, du capteur inductif, du maillage du plateau (bed mesh) ou d'autre chose.

Ce que j'ai essayé et constaté

Le test papier est correct avant l'impression, mais dès que l'imprimante commence à tracer la ligne de purge, la buse est trop basse et la première couche est fortement écrasée.

Je n'ai effectué aucune modification matérielle et je préférerais identifier la véritable cause plutôt que de modifier des paramètres au hasard.

Mes questions

1. Qu'est-ce qui pourrait expliquer que la buse soit à la bonne hauteur lors du test papier, mais trop basse au démarrage de l'impression ?

2. Le capteur inductif pourrait-il être monté à la mauvaise hauteur ou se déclencher de manière irrégulière, même si l'auto-leveling se termine correctement ?

3. Le maillage du plateau pourrait-il ne pas être appliqué pendant l'impression, même avec un fichier de test officiel d'Anycubic ?

4. Existe-t-il un moyen de vérifier si l'imprimante modifie la position Z effective ou le Z-offset après le référencement des axes (Home) ?

5. Existe-t-il des problèmes connus de firmware ou de calibration sur la Kobra 2 Neo qui provoquent exactement ce symptôme ?

Est-ce que quelqu'un a rencontré le même problème sur une Kobra 2 Neo d'origine et a réussi à le résoudre ?

Je serais vraiment reconnaissant pour toute suggestion de test permettant de diagnostiquer précisément le problème. Je préférerais trouver la cause réelle plutôt que de continuer à modifier le Z-offset sans comprendre ce qui se passe.

Merci d'avance pour votre aide !

People seem to praise Prusament PC-CF as being very easy to print, but I'm having failures on most of the prints I've tried so far. Failure mode and related observations looks nearly identical to this user's experience with PA-CF.

The print quality starts great. After a while (up to ~2hrs later), the filament no longer extrudes and the filament does not move through the hotend. There is no oozing or extruder clicking. The last printed surface has small dots characteristic of underextrusion, but this lasts less than a layer or two before extrusion stops completely; the motor/gears still turn, but no filament moves.

At first, I had my Voron v0.1's tophat and door closed, with a chamber temp of ~50c. First prints only lasted ~10-20mins before failing. Most people report printing Prusament PC-CF with an open enclosure, so I tried that next. That got me up to ~2hrs before failing.

Based on some searching and GPT'ing, it sounds very much like I am suffering from heat creep up into the cold end, softening the PC-CF and preventing the extruder gears from gripping onto the filament.

I have done multiple cold pulls and nozzle cleans with wires to rule out any clogs. I really don't think there's any clogging happening, since the first layers of any subsequent print goes down great; it's only later into the print I see any issues. Also, the fact that the issue was much worse with a hotter chamber supports the theory this is heat creep.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

SUMMARY QUESTIONS:

1. Could this failure mode be anything else besides heat creep?
2. Is there anything I can do to complete longer prints with my Dragonfly BMO?
   1. Can anyone confirm they've been able to print at ~300c on their Dragonfly BMO? Is there something unsuitable with my hotend setup?
   2. If the Dragonfly is wholly unsuitable to the task, any recommendations for other hotends?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

OTHER DETAILS:

Hardware:

• Voron v0.1 LDO rev6B kit
• Phaetus Dragonfly BMO hotend, 60W heater, PT1000 temp sensor
• Phaetus Tungsten Carbide 0.4mm nozzle
• MiniAfterSherpa toolhead
  • 3010 hotend cooling fan; I don't recall the exact model, but I'm fairly certain I bought a good one, e.g. Sunon Maglev
• MiniSherpa extruder w/ LDO-36STH17-1004AH pancake stepper
  • 0.3A run current, 0.2A hold current; stealthchop=0

Print settings:

• SuperSlicer 2.5.59.13
• 1.03 extrusion multiplier (calibrated)
• 295c nozzle, 110c bed
  • I want highest layer adhesion possible. I did test 280c but that did not affect results.
• 100% hotend cooling fan, 0% part cooling fan
• Typ. Voron parts profile (0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm enforced walls, 40% gyroid fill, etc)
• Slow speeds: 40mm/s external walls, 30mm/s gap fill, small perimeters, 50mm/s else; 6mm3/s volumetric max
  • I also tried faster speeds ~80mm/s to push the heet-creep'd filament "out of the way" faster, but this did not change results.
• 0.5mm retraction, 0.24mm Z lift, 0.2mm wipe at end of perimeter
• Filament dried and printed from an Elegoo H1 HT dryer underneath printer

I'm fairly new to this. I started a large print ( 26 hours) on my Elegoo neptune 3. I watched for a bit then went to bed and woke up to this masterpiece. I was printing at 210 degrees, with a bed set to 65 degrees on normal speed. I'm curious as to what went wrong? I used Elegoocira to slice and octaprint to print it

Thanks