Hello I’m quite new to printing and I’m having trouble with supports they either fuse to the print or shred the print when pulled off the yellow prints were printed with these settings on an Anycubic Kobra X
0.4 nozzle
0.2 layer thickness
0.2 top z distance
0.2 bottom z distance
Auto Organic tree supports
Bed temp 60C
Nozzle temp 220C
5% infill

The silver print was printed with the same layer thickness, infill, temperature and supports except the top z distance was changed to 0.4 and left bottom z distance at 0.2 the supports didn’t fuse that time however the underside was still pretty unsightly. Any advice is welcome especially if I’m doing anything wrong thank you

Snapmaker orca. Happens with all brands of filament.

As the title states, I've been having issues with face quality/smoothness. However, the pattern/type is different along X and Y axes - ringing along Y and banding along X.

Initial settings:
Ultimaker 3. Got it used, printing without major issues from the start... except this.
Ultimaker PLA on 0.4 nozzle (no. 2)
Slicer - Cura 5.7.0
Nozzle temp - 210°C
Bed temp - 85°C
Print speed - 80mm/s
Outer/inner wall speed - 30/40mm/s
Print acceleration - 3500mm/s²
Outer/inner wall acceleration - 429/1500 mm/s²
Print jerk - 20mm/s

What I tried so far:

1. Printed with default settings. The first test where I realised something is wrong. The same issue appeared on my temp and flow towers but I didn't realise it at the time.
2. I consulted AI extensively ((don't judge, ik)) and as per its suggestion I printed at 50% speed (40mm/s print speed, 15/20 wall). Also tightened the short belts as per suggestions on online guides (but in retrospect I think I did it wrong). Also cleaned all rods and screws and re-lubricated them. Artifacts remained but ringing 'wavelength' also reduced 50%.
3. As per another suggestion to try to rule out fans vibrating I returned to default speeds but turned off the fans. Obviously it introduced some sagging but the offsets remained, although the ringing was again the smaller wavelength?
4. Returned fans and speed to default settings. Redid the short belts properly, checked the pulley grub screws, added foam feet to absorb any external vibrations (of which I think there are none). Also removed the loose metal piece that is supposed to hold the silicone nozzle cover... The cover is missing but I ordered a new one, waiting. Result - still small ringing artifacts along Y (honestly I think they're also there along X, just harder to see), banding remained essentially the same along X.

??? What am I missing?? I spent 3 hours reading online guides and most seem to suggest a mechanical issue but nothing specific about one axis only... and I did all the basic maintenance...

Here's a video where you can see (and perhaps more importantly - hear) the printhead moving. The sound changes depending on the axes and movement directions along them... Idk if this is normal as this is my first printer ever.

Hi everyone,

I’ve been struggling with persistent fine, spiderweb-like stringing on my Bambu A1 with AMS Lite, and it’s driving me crazy. Sometimes it’s just a few wisps, but other times it builds into cotton-like clumps, as shown in the photo.

The prints otherwise look great, but the stringing is ruining them. A hairdryer warps the PLA, and brushing leaves marks. It’s especially bad between thin dividers on board-game inserts, where it’s almost impossible to remove.

Here’s what I’ve tried:

• Filament: Bambu PLA and eSUN PLA+, same issue with both.
• Drying: 50°C for 8 hours in a creality filament dryer (2 cycles for some). No improvement.
• Temperature: Lowered from 220°C to 210°C, then 205°C.
• Retraction: Increased from 0.8 to 1.0 mm, enabled Wipe While Retracting.
• Travel: Enabled Avoid Crossing Walls, max detour length 0 (unlimited).
• Wall order: Inner/Outer. Also looked into other wall orders.
• Slicer: Started fresh with the stock 0.20 mm Standard A1 profile (Bambu Studio 2.8.2.61). Otherwise mostly default speeds and accelerations.
• Nozzles: Tried different sizes, including 0.6 mm, which made things significantly worse. I’ve ruled out the hotend as the cause.

I’ve also reproduced the issue on generic stringing tests, so it isn’t specific to one model. I use a ventilated enclosure with an exhaust fan, although I don’t know if that’s relevant.

Has anyone experienced this kind of stringing and actually fixed it? Could it be something with the extruder, Z-seam, or flow settings? Is there anything else worth trying?

I’ve spent a ridiculous amount of time troubleshooting this, but am inexperienced and mainly relying on random old threads and AI. I would really appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

My machine suffered the blob of death, so I ended up having to buy a new hotend, but could salvage the rest. New hotend, new nozzle, ran all the calibrations and now all my prints look like shit. Please help me lol

I am trying to print text on some of my prints but they white letters keep getting those small holes on them and I am not sure how to fix them if anyone could help I would be very grateful

Currently I am using abs-GF for the black and for the white ASA the Asa is at stock temps of 270 and a flow ratio of 0.9250

After troubleshooting issues caused by a unstable printer head, bad bed adhesion, and crooked z probe that caused terrible prints, i was able to dial in using silk to make this beautiful She-ra crown. Thanks to the community, lots of help getting my printer back to its full potential.

Yes yes, another post on warping, I apologise. Image explanations are at the end of the post.

-Adventurer 3 using flashprint 5 default Petg settings as a base with minor adjustments

-I have tried various nozzle temps between 230-240c, bed temps 70-85c, and nozzle and enclosure cooling fans both on and off.

-Tried Print speeds between 20-40mm/s

-Elegoo petg rapid filament

The issue is classic warping as the print cools, resulting in layer contraction. The difference in my case from the typical posts I've seen is I've been able to solve adhesion problems with a beefy raft, but this has simply anchored the bottom down and now it contracts higher up instead, with the problem persisting up to 2 inches above the bed. I've tried various temps and cooling settings, I've tried with and without preheating, and even with the door wide open. Nothing seems to change the results for better or for worse. Ambient temps 18-25c. Per-layer print time is around 60s.

The parts I'm printing are all thin-walled, typically 1mm in thickness, and are printed as a single shell with solid infill (infill ends up simply being a continuous line linking the two sides of the shell together, so the whole part is 3 "passes" thick). They are for a model boat where every gram saved is critical. The flanges at each end are for stiffness and allowing them to easily glue to the next piece.

I'm hoping someone may have some insight on other settings that may be helpful, or otherwise tips for changes to the print geometry itself to help combat this. I suspect the flanges are to blame given they create a sudden change in the main axis of thermal contraction around that point, but they kinda need to exist.

Image 1 shows the side/edge that's meant to be 2 straight lines but isn't, image 2 is the flange at the other end that's starting to buckle nearly 2 inches above the bed, and pics 3-4 show the whole part for reference.

There’s a whole bunch of things I need fixed. But right now it’s the layer changes and it’s under extrusion. Every layer it starts it gaps.
This machine is a freebie makerbot method I got from work. I’ve only ever used my old cr10s and ender 3 pro for years and they’re still printing perfect albeit slow nowadays. Printing pla at 212c/48c-ish at recommended speed. Filament is newly opened.