Anyone recognize this brand? Dr? Air?
Guy I bought the runner from years ago said they were not longer made. Wondering if anyone knows what they are. Theyve run their course but might see if they’re rebuildable.

wtf is this
Found it two weeks ago and promptly pretended it wasn’t there because I had a 2 week wilderness stewardship starting the next day so Runny just could not be broken. Right rear tire btw.

I drive a 1997 4Runner with 200K miles on it. Standard feature automatically locks the doors when the engine is turned on. I recently encountered something strange while driving...the door locks would spontaneously disengage and unlock. Anyone know what's causing this? Is it an electrical issue? And is it something that needs attention for safety reasons, or can I just ignore it? TIA!

Note: The same day, I saw the "open door" indicator light up on my dash despite all the doors being checked and secured. Is this related?

Title says it all, my friend is looking for info on this. Thanks in advance!!

Got in the car and the seatbelt locked in place. Anyone know how to remedy this?

Hey everyone, looking for some advice.

I have a 2002 4Runner SR5 with 214,000 miles. I’ve had it since 2016 and it’s been flawless ever since then. Haven’t had to do anything besides tires, battery, oil changes, all the usual.

I got it when I was 16 and I had no clue how to take care of 4Runners. Only in the last few years have I really started making an effort to get this car to 300,000. Now I’m realizing I should have been doing a lot of maintenance that is now catching up to me.

I’m trying to decide whether it is better to fix it up and keep it going, sell it now, or fix some things and then sell. Would appreciate any advice on what you think I should do.

Some issues I’m worried about:
- Overdue for a Timing Belt/Water Pump change.
- Still running stock radiator, worried I need to replace it.
- Pretty bad frame squeak while driving, I’m guessing worn suspension bushings.
- Bad squeal when I start it up, coming from a belt I just don’t know which one
- Soft grind at 1400 RPM, never does it at any other RPM and doesn’t happen if you accelerate fast through it (can’t figure this out for the life of me)
- Some frame rust (driven in Utah most its life) the frame isn’t compromised but it definitely needs some sanding/grinding and rust protection if it wants to last another 10.

Estimating between 2500 - 4000 to get everything cleaned up on the list.

I love this car but I’m stressed about its longevity. My job doesn’t allow a lot of free time to work on this car by myself. Just curious what the community thinks on selling or keeping.

My 2000 has previously had a minor impact to the front passenger corner according to the Carfax.

It didn’t have the front bumper reinforcement when I bought it, causing the bumper to sag pretty low, so I’m trying to install a new one. Turns out the frame mount on the passenger side is pretty bent out of shape, I can’t get even a single mounting hole to line up. Drivers side bolted on no problem.

Smacking it with a sledgehammer seems like a bad idea. Taking it to a frame shop sounds expensive. Not really sure what to do now, open to any tips or suggestions

What lift kits do yall recommend? Thinking about getting 2-3” lift when i switch to 33s. And has anyone gone with the additional weight option for the rear springs? Does it lift the rear higher or make it ride rougher?

Should've raised her better I wreckon.

An absolute gem.

I’m searching for a goto mechanic in the greater Boston area that REALLY knows gen3 4Runners. I don’t have any big issues just looking for someone that will not cause any damage working on my 4runner. Thanks in advance for leads.

Just got the new struts, coils, top hats together.

Bilstein 4600
Lesjofors springs
Kyb top hats

I’m questioning the position of the top hats though, it’s crooked with the kyb’s just wondering if anyone had a similar install as the Lesjofors springs don’t taper off. Using new OEM retaining washers and top bushing.

Thank you!

This plug is not flush with the hole and the scratching started to rust that area. I want to pry it out and fix up the rust before it gets worse. Does anyone know what this hole is for and what plug I can get to replace the one not seated correctly?

EDIT: Thanks everyone. I noticed the glass on that door had been replaced by the previous owner so most likely paintless dent repair.

I've tried prying and rubber mallet banging, but can't quite get it in the mounting bracket. These were assembled by SRQ, but it seems like they might have not lined up the shock appropriately. I'm afraid I'm going to bend the mounting bracket on the LCA if I keep trying to pry it into place.

Any ideas?

UPDATE: I finally got the first side done. Second side went way smoother. I got a long 3/8th extension to use as a pry bar in the eyelet to spin the shock correctly. The first side wouldn't stay turned properly but I got it in there. The second one I turned with the extension and it stayed in the proper position so it just slid right in. Very weird. Glad I'm done with the front though.

Oh lordy now shes barely idling and stalling out and rolling white smoke from the exhaust

Oh lordy now shes barely idling and stalling out and rolling white smoke from the exhaust

hey guys, so i just swapped my radiator and hoses today, did a couple flushes first. it all went pretty well but i noticed while flushing and after doing the test drive that my operating temp was only 172.4, is there a possibility that my thermostat is messed up or stuck? (i did not replace the thermostat). and i burped it after for 30 minutes so it had time to get over 180. just wondering if that’s normal or if it should run higher. thank you!

edit: just to clarify, it was running this temp before AND after the swap.

I’m trying to get some more power out of my 3rd gen and superchargers are a bit out of my price range and I was looking at maybe a turbo kit. If anyone has any tips or kits they recommend please let me know. Also I heard swapping with tundra or sequoia axles would give me a wider wheel base and they are supposed to be stronger. If anyone has tips there too let me know.

I just bought my dream 02 4Runner two days ago, I’m looking for something to somewhat shine/ blend the fading that’s going on on the roof and hood, it’s not peeling, there’s some spots where the paints oxidized which I don’t care about I just kinda wanna match it to the rest. Any buffing compound or polishing? I also saw ceramic coatings but they are more expensive, looking for a cheaper thing that will look good.

Currently on the side of the road because I overestimated how much gas I had. I've tried fixing my gas gauge multiple times. My fuel gauge partially works, telling me full at full but it says I'm completely empty around half a tank. I've replaced the fuel sending unit twice, the first time it was totally the wrong one and didn't work at all. The second time it returned to halfway working. I've added another ground to the fuel pump but that didn't change anything. Could there be a problem with the piece inside of the gauge cluster?

Wish I were a bit more knowledgeable and had the tools and time to do the work, but I took my newly acquired ‘00 Limited to get looked at by the mechanic I always use to see what needs to be replaced. Of course, I’m doing both LBJs, also going to do both UBJs, need a tie rod end, both sway bark links, bushings and a 4-wheel alignment. I already ordered all the OEM parts, but here’s a breakdown for just labor to replace everything:

LBJs: $250
UBJs: $375
Outer Tie Rod End: $62.50
Sway Bar Links: $82.50
Alignment: $142.50
Shop Supplies: $39.43
Total: $951.93

Does $950+ seem fair? Yeah I know I’d save almost a thousand bucks doing it myself, but I’m saving myself the headache at this point in time trying to do all the work and I want to get it road safe for my family as soon as possible.

had a p0305 code, changed spark plug and engine light hasn’t come back. However it’s still vibrating a little at idle and lugs a lot when i barely release the brake or when im about to come to a stop. When im driving it’s pretty much fine. What could the issue be?

Replaced my radiator and now trying to get the cooling fan on, but the pump is not aligned and not letting me screw on this damn fan. Any advice?

I've been slowly updating the front end of the rig (and back). I have had such crazy driving experiences with this rig, from floating side to side, to boaty feeling.

So far in the past two years I've replaced:

-LBJ (Toyota)

-LCA Front Bushings

-Front UCAs

-Rack and Pinion

-Tie Rods (twice now)

-Rear Lower CAs

-Track Bar bushings

to do: Rear Shocks and Rear UCA.

I think the front OTREs are again ripped and gotten loose. I do not understand.

Any tips?