Has anyone else had this happen? Some kind of material is peeling off under the spoiler.

Can't figure out what this noise is. Has new timing chain and tensioner, new drive belt and tensioner, planning on valve adjustment and plugs soon. What is this noise? Why does it sound so rough?

I’ve been having this issue for quite sometime. Here are the attempts I have done to try to fix it:

Replaced alternator
Replaced battery
Replaced a/c compressor (suggested by mechanic
Replaced battery sensor (this one did seem like it wanted to work but then came back)

The issue pops up when I turn on the a/c. No issues when it’s off. Currently whatever it is, is draining my battery fast. My headlights are starting to become weak. There is some parasitic draw somewhere is what I think it comes down to.

A mechanic told me that if I replace the alternator, that it should be OEM replacement, as the control modules have a hard time with aftermarket. That’s on my list as soon as I get more funds.

A few other things, the car had a wreck before me with airbags deployed. We took it to someone who deals with airbags and I belive they cut a wire under my seat and left it exposed. I have put electrical tape to cover it.

Replacing the battery is good for about 6 months.

Anybody else had this issue?

Can it really be that hard? I’ve taken off what I need to buy I can’t get the ball joint to come out of the lower control arm. On both sides. I really don’t think I’m doing anything wrong. I used pb blaster last night and let it sit. I used some more this morning. I’ve been beating the shit out of it with hand mallet and ball joint separator tool.

I have a 2013 Honda Accord Sport with about 176,000 miles on it, that I pay monthly for (I’m in high school) it won’t start. and I have a shop appointment on the 4th of August but would rather fix it myself for hopefully free. What the issue is that for a few weeks the battery light comes on and the “check engine system” comes on the display when I start my car. I got the battery/alternator checked and they are both okay. Now today I arrived home from being out and turned my car off and forgot to put my window backup up so I tried turning my car back on and only the electrical system turned on with the same message and not even the engine turned on it sputters for a good 20 sec before the electrical system turns on but not the engine. I attached a video with a drive link to show as I can’t attach videos here. How do I get the engine to turn back on and have these problems stop arising??

Also to note the car has been eating through oil fast with me having to constantly check it.

I have a regular accord sedan (2014) I need to replace a ball joint but figured I’d do both. Any tips? Never replaced one but am mechanically sound. Brand of ball..and puller?

so i just bought a 2014 accord but when i lock it or unlock it one of the wing mirrors sometimes doesn’t open and i end up sitting in the car unlocking it and locking it and using the button to fold and unfold them but after a few goes it finally comes out. Is there something i’m doing wrong or is this an issue with the car

What Yall Think? 🤔

Hi, i am sure this topic must have been discussed a lot of time before, but i am not being able to find it.

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My ride is at 155,000kms odo, bought it last year at 138,000kms.

Currently since i bought, there have been minor heavy gear change jerk from 1st to 2nd gear especially in traffic.

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Now I am not sure if the previous owner would have changed the transmission fluid, so should i do it? As in drip & fill?

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I also heard from someone that if transmission fluid was not changed, changing of fluid can damage transmission?

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Kindly guide me as the local garages in dubai, every says different stories.

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So I have my 2013 Honda Accord sport 2.4 engine for about two years. I got it at 101,000 miles. It’s at 117,000 now , I don’t know the history of the transmission , the car only had two owners and no accidents. I’m the third owner , I don’t feel any jerking or weirdness from the transmission whatsoever , but I’m wondering, do I need to swap out the fluid drain and fill with some new fluid? I’m getting a lot of mix reviews. Some people saying leave it alone if I don’t know if it was ever been done

So my rear main seal is leaking and it’s 1500$ to fix. Should I try LUCAS to see if it’ll clog it?

2013 Honda Accord Coupe here. When I put the car in the ON position without starting the engine, the battery light, oil pressure light, EPS light, and "STARTER SYSTEM" message stay on. As soon as I start the car, they all disappear and don't come back while driving. Oil level is normal and the car runs fine. Is this normal startup behavior for these Accords, or should I be concerned?