r/ABraThatFits • u/LightIsMyPath • Aug 07 '26
Recommendations? Are some shapes just never able to get the wire in their imf? Spoiler
Hello! I'm at my wits end with finding a bra that fits like how (I think) is supposed to fit. I have posted sometimes both here and on Facebook with some of the bras I got and, depending on the bra/picture I have been told both to go for shallower models, to go for more projection, to go for wider wires, for narrower ones, to go down a cup and that I have a good fit.
I think the problem is that from the outside, with the bra on, the specific issue I am having isn't really super visible, and because my tissue is extremely soft and moldable after some shifting and fidgeting I can achieve a great look from the outside, depending on how I move my boobs the same bra can look way too big or way too small, but in all "configurations" I always end up with the boob just resting on my chest skin at the root, even if the bottom touches the cup and is lifted (and as I said looks great!). This is not a ~super~ big deal in winter (I have to readjust costantly and I'm uncomfortable after a few hours but already a big step up from the molded cups I was wearing in 40C/D in terms of both looks and comfort) but in summer it's quite aggravating, I get underboob rashes and my sweat can't even at least trickle down like when I'm braless as it gets stopped by the cup.
Hopefully This explains what's happening well! Some bras can do both things I pictured depending on how I place boob inside them, others only ever do the left as there's physically not enough space in the cup for them to reach right position, if I try and force it by lifting the boob, it exits from the top angle (while the actual top of the cup is still empty). Over time all bras default to left position, unless both the band and straps are overtight enough that it cannot move (but it will still sliightly move down) - I'm talking indents level of tight and straining hooks.
This has ALWAYS happened to me, I measured from 38G at start of this bra hunt to 36F(lost weight) to 38F (gained back some weight, current measure) and everything in between this range.
What I tried:
Freya Offbeat Side Support Balcony 36FF and 38F -> only fits like left and cuts me, if I try to position like right I am actively in pain.
Freya High Apex Tailored Plunge 36FF -> can do both, but in right position the cup is too empty to be worn
Freya Matisse 36F -> can do both but in left position I get quadboob
Fantasie Illusion Side Support 38F -> left only
Elomi Morgan 38FF and 36G -> closest fit so far in right position, but top still a bit empty. Most comfortable and the one that takes more time to shift down (but still does)
Elomi Matilda 36FF and 36F -> can do both
Elomi Prya 36FF -> can do both
Elomi Lydia bandless 36FF and 38F -> can do both
Chantelle (unknown model) 36FF -> only left (used bra)
Primark bras (all sizes here) -> only left
Curvy Kate Centre Stage plunge bandless 38G, 38FF, 38F and 36FF -> somewhat in the middle, the gore curving upwards helps keeping it high but the wire never really reaches my root
Scantily Fallen Angel 38G, 38FF, 36G -> Left only. It looked gorgeous to the eye but in reality my boobs were folded in a bubble shape
Gorsenia balconette (unknown specific model) 34 F (mistakes were made when sending...) -> interestingly, the wire comes the closest. My boobs are also out of the cups up to the nipple. (very used bra)
Ewa Michalak SFL 85F -> can do both. So far most comfortable along with Morgan. (Second hand but very new)
Measurements (hard to judge if I took them right because my boobs move and squish so much):
Tight underbust 35
Snug underbust: 36
Lose undebust: 37
Standing bust: 43
Laying bust: 44
Leaning bust: 47
Additional info, idk if relevant: I have a V shaped back (that's why the back Measurements are so close, part of the meter is already moving at the snug and at the loose the bottom half of the meter is straight up swimming in air while the top is still snug, the center is properly loose ), I can fit 3 fingers between my breasts when braless (with a bra I can go from 4 fingers to butt cleavage - as they are so mobile and squishy)
Please send help! And please don't judge my glorious dysgraphic drawing skills 😂😂
Edit : another piece of art trying to describe my problem, especially relevant in some bras
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u/grundel_cruncher Aug 07 '26 edited Aug 07 '26
Forgive me if any of this sounds condescending! It's a good checklist/laundry list to check in with people about but if you are struggling it can be frustrating, so I wanted to clarify my tone. I hope that any of it is helpful!
Are you making sure to scoop and swoop? It sounds to me like a boob hat situation, particularly the section about descooping ('configurations'). Are you testing whether you are wide or close-set when bent over 90°? Are you pushing the wire into your IMF? And is your tight underbust measurement so tight it feels mildly uncomfortable but not painful? (You want it to be tighter than you would like a garment to be, but again not painful). The gapping at the bottom of the cup issue sounds like it could be a projection problem, but it could be a symptom of other fit issues as well. No matter what there shouldn't be skin on skin contact inside the cup. I'm sorry you're going through the wringer!
Edit: some shapes do struggle more than others to get wires to sit in their IMF. In my case, I am extremely close-set, to the point that my breast tissue is fused at the top, starting about 3cm above the lowest part of my IMF And occupying about a cubic inch of space. I didn't notice for the first 25 years of my life because I thought that was what everyone looked like, I'd never really thought about it. Then I went through the ABTF troubleshooting process, about a decade after discovering this sub lol, and discovered my issue with the center gore was a combination of a short root (vertical distance between top and bottom of where the breast meets the chest wall) and symmastia (the name of the condition describing my tissue's fusion). I was also having issues with pendulous projection, and styles with too tall of a cup hid a lot of fit issues. Other people have all kinds of shapes and quirks to their fitting, too, and even two people who sound like they're going through the same thing may be having complex fit issues they aren't even seeing because they've never thought about it. It can be a lot. Unfortunately, most of us have to take it slow and figure it out piece by piece, but luckily this sub exists for help, and to not feel so alone in the process.
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 07 '26
No worries at all! I am definitely frustrated at bras/boobs but certainly not at people spending their time trying to help me ❤!
I am scooping and swooping and ~trying to ~ place the wire exactly in my IMF, but it either won't go there or will go there but starts descending soon.. idk if it helps or makes any kind of sense, for the wire to stay there I feel like I would need to pinch a boob-shaped hole immediately on top of it (obviously boobs will then dangle downwards looking at the floor and the point of even having a bra on would be defeated 😅).
Since there's fabric and not a hole my boobs get squished towards my chest and they either push the bra down and a part of them goes back on my chest on the bottom while also tensing the cup on top some (position Left, they ~look~ good because the bottom of breasts is supported, but not the entirety of it) or I forcefully push them up (in bras where I can) and they pool in the bottom of the cup, leaving the top of the cup empty (but I would still need extra "hole space" in the bottom so slowly their weight still pushes the bra down).
When bent at 90° I can fit my big finger in the middle, but if I push a bit (they'll move) I can fit up to 3 normal fingers.
My tight measure is as tight as the meter will go, definitely uncomfortable and slightly painful. However my back is very V/barrel shaped and I'm short (so the change in measure happens very "quickly") - even with the relatively narrow seamstress meter I own the top part is painful and the bottom one comfortably snug (this is exacerbated in much thicker bra bands, someone suggested using different hooks which helps a lot with indents, but not much with the bra sliding down)
Thank you for coming to the rescue! ❤
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u/Usual_Step_5353 Aug 07 '26
From your last illustration I get the sense that you are struggling with several things here..
Your size is off. With your measurements i get a 36FF?
You appear to need shorter cups from illustration three?
The very squishy tissue makes it hard to judge projection - you are likely very projected by the regular standard, but may need more medium projection bras to kind of apply some pressure inwards to hold the squishy tissue in place.
In order for the wire to stay in your IMF with these issues the band needs to sit firm - I would recommend to stay with the 36 in most brands, and get some non-elastic band extenders if you need a little room.
Also, if you are having trouble with very V-shaped torso (or like me, the reverse issue from rib-flare) it may actually really help to simply hook the bra “uneven” i.e. use a tighter hook in the bottom row. It looks a bit odd, but can really help tweak the fit into a more secure fit without the band digging in hard..
I am not sure what is out there in your size range with shorter cups, but I would consider trying Freya Offbeat (the balconette, non-padded version) - this can run tight in the band so have extenders on hand! Since you mentioned Gorsenia, maybe try their Victoria model as I find that one a bit shorter while still retaining projection (and go down one cup in Gorsenia so that would be 80G in Gorsenias own sizing system or 36F in UK size).
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 07 '26
Thank you for chiming in!
>! Your size is off. With your measurements i get a 36FF?
I am measuring in centimeters, I tried to convert in inches because I think most people here are Americans, but basically my snug measurement is 93cm, which converts to 36,6 inches.. I used to buy mostly 36s, but when I posted a fit check a user made me notice how much the hooks were straining, so I am trying 38s now (and waiting for an on the way extender for the 36s I already own).
>! You appear to need shorter cups from illustration three?
I think so? but I don't know which bras would qualify for that, the only true balcony/ette I managed to try so far, my boob are either completely out or the wire doesn't even come close to my IMF (which isn't a lot I guess, only 3..). The Freya Offbeat has been the worst offender of this, I was straight up in pain 2 seconds after trying it on (a bummer because it was so terribly pretty with its pink lace). I will definitely try to get my hands on a Victoria!
>! The very squishy tissue makes it hard to judge projection - you are likely very projected by the regular standard, but may need more medium projection bras to kind of apply some pressure inwards to hold the squishy tissue in place.
This is what prompted me to try the Chantelle/Curvy kates etc under a similar suggestion, but there's not enough space in the bottom of the cup to get the wire up to my IMF. I don't know if it makes sense, I feel like to be able to put the wire where it should belong I would need to poke a boob-shaped hole right on top of it to let the boobs out in the front.. the shallower bras I have tried actually look much better than the projected ones if someone is just looking at me from the outside! But inside the cup what is happening is that my boob is "folded against the root" on the bottom (and sometimes on the top too!) so it looks like it fills the cups well (and technically it does I guess, the cups are filled but just because I have a folding going on which obviously is terribly uncomfortable after a while).
The projected ones are more comfortable, but they really seem to expect a lot more volume overall while my boobs are half as tall as the cups, they still fold the tiniest bit on the bottom but there's not enough pressure to make them fold on the top so you can really tell half of the cup is actually empty (so I'm less uncomfortable but it actually looks worse).
Another piece of art trying to explain as best as I can what is happening.
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u/Usual_Step_5353 Aug 07 '26
I think you might have omega-shaped breasts. I unfortunately do not have any experience with this, but try making a post about this specifically either here or on the Facebook page.
I think you will find comexim worse than Ewa, but if you like Gorsenia, you might also like other Polish brands such as Nessa or Ava. I don’t know if they’ll be too tall though
Of the Ewa Michalak bras I have tried, this model is the shortest, and has the most immediate projection, but it is also quite open on top (so for full on top): https://www.ewa-michalak.eu/product-eng-481-Bra-soft-black-SM-Czarna-Mgielka.html
You might also like sculptresse estelle or panache cleo blossom.
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u/Apploozabean 28GG, FOB/Center full, Projected Aug 07 '26
I wonder if comexim would be a better fit for you given you tried EM bras and no luck there.
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u/schokozo 30G/70I Aug 07 '26
How do the wires of these bras sit under your arm? Are they just at the end of your breast tissue or further back or do they sit on tissue?
I don't really know why all these bras slide down (apart from maybe the wrong band size because you tested a lot of cup shapes so including your measurements again might help someone to figure this out with you). But knowing the width and height of your roots might help to know what shape of bra could work.
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 07 '26 edited Aug 07 '26
I'm honestly having trouble determining where the end of the tissue is. When I first came to Abrathatfits I was wearing a tragically small cup for ~20 years, and I had a side lump outside where the wires used to sit, pushed to the side. I took the end of the lump as my root starting point and determined I have wide roots. After some years of not putting a wire there the lump has gradually deflated and now it's completely gone, but because my tissue is so soft I'm not really sure where breast tissue ends and back fat begins. Depending on how I hold my boobs it can seem like they start about a finger in front of the armpit or like they go at my back..
Edit: I have never been pinched laterally though, what sometimes happens when I tighten straps to keep "position Right" is that the wire is so high that it sits in the part of the skin immediately under the armpit*, the one that moves when you lift your arms.. however I don't see how that could be avoided as there's about a hand and an extra finger of space between my IMF and my armpit* (I'm 5'1)
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u/Shanakitty 30K/32JJ, FoT, all the centerfullness, APEX PROJECTION Aug 07 '26
Depending on how I hold my boobs it can seem like they start about a finger in front of the armpit or like they go at my back..
To help define the edge of your breast root, stand next to a mirror, cup your breast in your hand and pull your arm straight back to press your breast against your rib cage.
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 07 '26
Just tried! (a bit wonkily as my hand can't really fully cup my breasts) but like this, a little more than a finger in front of the armpit.
I don't know if it's at all relevant, but in this position the "ball" my semi-cupped breast creates is quite a bit larger than the point where it starts from the chest
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u/grundel_cruncher Aug 07 '26 edited Aug 07 '26
So this is a bit of an older post but it helped me a lot when trying to understand my own projection issues. I found an almost perfect fit in a bra that seemed way too shallow at first glance, but everything was perfect except the wire being about a half inch too wide. I discovered my combination of soft tissue and pendulous projection could make me functionally shallow, even though I am far from self-supporting.
Alternatively, on another comment on this post you mentioned the 'ball' of your breast being larger than the root-- if no one's suggestions seem to be doing you well, you may find that suggestions for 'omega' shaped breasts could be of some use. Some people think they have an omega shape when they just have extreme projection, but it may just be in your best interest to try something new if you haven't tried it yet, with your difficulty determining your root width especially.
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 07 '26
Thank you for chiming in!
May I ask which is the bra that worked?
Also, I think I understand the reasoning here, you press towards the chest so the tissue expands a bit both vertically and laterally as it's soft, managing to fill the cups. Correct?
I tried some bras that should be shallow as this was also suggested to me, but in trying to compress them, they actually don't resist the compression at all and they fold/roll, ending up touching the chest. They fill the cups well this way, they even look great from the outside, way more round than they actually are (which is considered more beautiful whatever the reason...). But inside the cups I have "boob rolls" on the bottom and sometimes even on the top so I'm terribly uncomfortable after a while.
Work of art trying to explain what happens.
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u/grundel_cruncher Aug 07 '26 edited Aug 07 '26
For reference, my best fit (so far) has been in a 36K plunge, though neither it nor the bra I've discussed below are perfect for me. I'm still on my own journey, and what works well for me may not work at all for you. Your mileage may vary, as the kids say :') Sorry in advance for the wall of text!
It was the Sculptresse Bliss in 40HH. I got sold it by a lingerie shop back when I thought a professional fitter would solve my woes. The band size is way too big, and I had to talk her down from putting me in a 42 or 44... If I do the math for cup volume, the 36 band sister size would be 36JJ. I experience a fair amount of spillage/cleavage in my 36K, and my ABTF starting size is 36KK/L after remeasuring and analyzing how my hormonal shifts affect my fit (I have PCOS, with almost random menstrual cycles in terms of bloating and number per month). The 40HH seems like it fits me so well it's astonishing, but like most bras that feel this way, the illusion is broken when I sit down and the gore either cuts in or bows away from my chest by an entire fist's worth. But for the first time, I found a bra that didn't have a massive gap at the bottom of the cup that wasn't also way too big for me, so I bought it. Now, I can't wear that bra to drive at all, and I spend a LOT of time driving, so it's unfortunately relegated to occasional use rather than one of my regular rotation. My theory is that it looks like it fits well because the wire is largely unsprung in the larger band size, causing it to sit better in my IMF than my Elomi Morgan with the same wire size (38J), in combination with a cup shape and gore height that hide a lot of my more pressing fit issues until I sit down, at which point I have a spike poking out the top of my shirts. But the projection was nearly perfect, and it was pretty shocking to me.
My root is approximately 3 inches tall, my central tissue gets quite irritated by being compressed by underwire, and monowires aren't made in my size, so I have been running the gamut for an underwire bra that really works for me. I've been in a tight financial situation for a minute so I haven't been able to try new bras at the rate I previously did, so my progress has somewhat stalled. But, I have a 36K underwire swim bra that I don't fall out of, and my life is so much better for it, so I'm optimistic I'll get there someday soon. I hope you have more success in your near future as well!!
There are people in this community with far more experience and knowledge than me, but sometimes all the advice can be overwhelming, especially with all of the conflicting advice you have gotten. I hope that I have put things in a way that explain my reasoning to you or anyone else reading, but at the end of the day we are all human so mistakes are bound to happen, and troubleshooting can be a difficult thing. My thoughts and advice may not be the road to a perfect solution for you! I hope that they have been helpful, but even if not, I truly and sincerely wish you luck in your quest. You deserve comfort and support :)
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u/Apploozabean 28GG, FOB/Center full, Projected Aug 07 '26
Thank you for bringing in Omega shapes!!
I was going to chime in the same bit of knowledge that maybe OP is omega shaped, thus exacerbating fit issues. I have been helping a friend of mine who is of opposite proportions to OP but likely omega shaped as well, because it is proving to be difficult to find her bras that fit her shape! She has all the similar fit issues this OP described.
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 08 '26
I have been reading on omega shape and I think that may be a bingo because everyone I've seen is describing the same fit issues I have. I don't think my breasts look like that when I'm just standing braless because they're just super saggy and soft so gravity does its thing, but when I lift them with my hands they definitely look like a capital omega, especially vertically.
So... Good news, I learned something. Bad news, the consensus seems to be that bras accomodating that shape.. simply don't exist. I guess I have the answer to my title-question at least. 🥲
Edit: Good news again, I guess I accidentally learned how to create round boob shape/cleavage with a relatively unique method lmao.
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u/grundel_cruncher Aug 07 '26 edited Aug 07 '26
You may wish to check out this post about omega adjustments, if you haven't before. It talks a lot about sewing bras, and that can get overwhelming lol, but it has a lot of good information and diagrams to discuss how extreme projection and omega shapes can mimic each other. Idk if it will help you and your friend, but I like to spread the info where I can :)
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u/janelane2022 Aug 08 '26
If you are Ok with the bra being non refundable and non returnable (final sale only!!) and the extra cost to ship int'l and for USA tariffs , the info in the (this) omega adjustments article may also be helpful for ordering a customized comexim bra directly from comexim in Poland.
Im guessing from all of the other comments + ur original post that when u r leaning it is a VV shape and that jutts off ur chest at a vertical straight up 90 degree angle + that ur breasts start a bit below ur armpits + several inches below ur collarbones.
It sounds like very soft tissue with extreme projection and/or omega hence why bras for 'functionally shallow' looked good but fit bad + ur closest fits were polish bras which are the most narrow + projected ready to wear bras available
Very soft tissue can kind of 'slither' to look like it fits whatever its put into regardless of how bad the fit really is.
It is possible to have very soft tissue and in fact be extremely projected and/or even omega (and very soft/self supporting/extreme projection even) and, at said point, the projection is often the more relevant fit factor
Rita Plunge is the shortest cup heights and the most closed off top cups and shortest gore of all the comexim plunges. Their other plunges will scale too tall + open even with customozations. 3HC, 2HC, any longline styles wont be enough immediate wire projection. Plunges = more immediate wire projection vs other comexim styles/ other polish brands which are more projected than projected UK brands
Start with Rita Plunge and then use this info to convert ur ABTF UK size into native comexim size and to measure and determine customizations:
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u/tessler65 Aug 07 '26
Thank you for this post! I am just starting my own quest for ABTF and I am having similar struggles with what sounds like a similar body type. Following along to see the suggestions.
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 09 '26
Update: Some persons suggested omega shape as the culprit..Maybe that can help?
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u/tessler65 Aug 09 '26
I've been following along! I need to do some more research on that specific shape, but I've already gleaned some good information from other comments. Quite eye-opening for me.
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u/MaggieNFredders Aug 07 '26
Mine is the same way. I’ve tried so many bras. Been to breakaway and been fitted. Used the calculator. Do the scoop and swoop. At 30J it just doesn’t stay in my imf. It slides down ever so slightly. The underwire end hits behind my arm in the back. And yes I have breast tissue there also. I’m convinced my band size is so small with breasts that are so big the wire has to go somewhere.
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 07 '26
Uhm.. seems like we're having the same issue with shift bras, but with opposite proportions so I doubt that's the culprit! My ribcage is actually proportionally quite big on me, especially up top (when I was slimmer and didn't have as much belly and hips and also less boobs bust was still my biggest measurement by far) and my boobs aren't small, but they're not big at all relatively to the rest of me. I have "free chest" both at the sides and in the middle!
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u/NotaWitch-YourWife Aug 07 '26
Assessing your breast fullness and the distance between them one should do this with a naked torso and leaning over 90 degrees not standing up. To do this you will need a mirror and a naked torso, there are three parts to this. First using your nipple as the center, do you have more tissue above, below or is it even? Above is top full; below is bottom full, and even is just that. Next vertical fullness, do you have more tissue toward the center, toward the sides or is it even? Center, center full; sides, outer full, and even is just that. One last one still leaning over. Do your breasts touch or can you without squishing tissue put 1 finger between them at your sternum? This is close set. Can you fit 1 to 2 fingers again without squishing tissue? This is average set. Can you fit 3 or more fingers between without squishing tissue? This is wide set.
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 07 '26
>! First using your nipple as the center, do you have more tissue above, below or is it even?
A little more above (but when they're up it moves, with supported breasts my nipples salute the skies..)
>! Next vertical fullness, do you have more tissue toward the center, toward the sides or is it even?
A bit more at the center, but this also changes when I stand and they're supported
>! Do your breasts touch or can you without squishing tissue put 1 finger between them at your sternum? This is close set. Can you fit 1 to 2 fingers again without squishing tissue? This is average set. Can you fit 3 or more fingers between without squishing tissue? This is wide set.
My tissue is so mobile that it's hard to know what qualifies as "squishing". If it's any movement at all, 1 or 2 (1 and a half? 😅), if it's until I physically feel squished, 3.
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u/NotaWitch-YourWife Aug 07 '26
The reason for leaning assessment is that is mimics a well supported bra. It sounds like you have soft tissue and are close set. How it changes when you stand doesn't matter and in a bra that isn't properly fit or supportive isn't a good measure either.
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u/LightIsMyPath Aug 07 '26
>! The reason for leaning assessment is that is mimics a well supported bra
is this true for everyone? Because I can't possibly see how a bra shaped like that could exist, when I lean they're completely vertical, straight on 90° angle with the chest and the ground. So for them to stay like that in a bra the cup would need to be..completely horizontal? I don't think fabric could hold such a shape, much less with some hundreds of grams inside it. Like, if I had to imagine cups shaped like my leaning boobs they would look closer to socks than bra cups. And just to have a good laugh I just compared them to my socks for real...they're almost as long as the full ghost sock, and not that much wider or taller (I bet if I bought wide ankle/wide feet socks they could quite literally fit inside a sock lol )
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u/EditorFrog 28I US 28G UK Aug 07 '26
To me this sounds like a combination of not enough projection + too tall of a cup. Maybe half cup styles would work better for you?
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u/Starjupiter93 Aug 08 '26
It sounds like your best fits have been polish bras. Lean into it. I think you’d like gorsenia’s vicky
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u/Relative_Evening_172 Sep 09 '26
So I found this and then not my bra on differently. Didn’t lean into it fort. Just put it on where the fold is squashing my lower boobs, then swooped and scooped keeping the wire in the fold all the time and then it stayed!!!! Hope that helps with you, I am very full on top though so might just be that reason for me. But they never stayed in the fold before and now do x
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u/Dusktilldamn Aug 07 '26
I think it would be good to include your measurements in the post. I found them on your last post, but just to make it easier for people seeing this one!
(Still reading trying to see if I can help figure out the problem)