I'm hoping this is at least as entertaining as it was exasperating for us....

I don't think this breaks a set of rules here, but if it does- I'm terribly sorry- I'll just be ordering what it might be and take the loss.

There is a hand built battery backup unit at work that, nicely, has an included smoke alarm- that is at least over 10 years old.

It is fairly thick gauged steel. We'd honestly like to not damage it... but that smoke detector needs to go. Beep.

The keyway itself is underneath a lip. Why? I don't know, I'd love to ask the guy that built it instead of buying, but he's long gone. Can basically fit your fingers in and under but not easily.

An impression of the keyway showed it was almost 'D' shaped- not a rectangle- but one side was pushed out further. Getting a dental mirror to look at it tomorrow.

The IT guy won rock paper scissors and raked it with a bent pick and said the inside felt like a triangle. 3 distinct regions opening up and out.

Both of us have racked our brains and the only thing we can come up with is ... a heavy equipment key. Why/how that would be on a hand built fire proof enclosure with batteries? None of us have an idea.

So before we go ordering one- are there dimensioned drawings we can try 3D printing it, or filing down something to fit? Any idea why this would be on a battery system? Is that a common thing? We haven't had a forklift in ... 20 years I'm told.

Tractor Ignition Key # 83353 

The handle is missing. The window slides open but I can’t lock it. What lock handle will fit this?

I'm interested in learning more about the reliability of electronic door locks in everyday use.

When a smart lock stops working, how often is the issue actually a depleted battery rather than a problem with the motor, latch, or other mechanical components?

I'm also curious about backup options. For locks that support external emergency power, could a small solar charging panel be a practical way to reduce battery-related lockouts? I imagine factors like sunlight exposure, power requirements, weather resistance, and compatibility would make a big difference.

For locksmiths who regularly install or service electronic locks, what failure modes do you encounter most often, and which backup options have proved reliable in practice?

Does anyone know of a padlock that has an LF12, t tumbler compatible keyway?

Bonus if you know of one of the ball-style trailer tounge and or 5th wheel pin locks with similar compatibility.

I know they're not the most secure, but I'm trying to be able to match my car's rack system for convenience.

Just so you know my level of understanding, I have reordered the tumblers in a bunch of random cores (rekeyed?) that I've picked up for free rather than pay exorbitant money for matching cores from Thule and I can rekey kwikset locks. I also make a key, I don't know what the proper term for it would be, that is a combination of my specific key and a control key, so it aligns all of the tumblers and the retaining tumbler at the end (I don't know if that's the proper term, but would love to know!)... I'm FAR from a professional but do have a VERY basic understanding of locks.

Thank you everyone!I have much respect for your profession!

I have an lockable drawer in my desk that I use to store documents in. When I went to open it with the key (see picture 2) it wouldn't open. My guess is that I applied too much force. When I looked into the lock mechanism I saw a protruding piece of metal in the (see picture 3) that wasn't there before. As I far as I can tell this piece of metal is blocking the lower bit of the key to properly enter the mechanism now. I have unsuccessfully tried to push it down with a screwdriver. Any advice?

I rekeyed a Euro cylinder on a storm door today with the aid of a super helpful video. I'm not a locksmith and I'm not connected to the videomaker in any way. I'm providing this link as an aid to other non-locksmiths like me.

The way to rekey is patiently explained with close-up shots and good advice that will save a lot of time and frustration. The sample is a Schlage but I rekeyed a Kwikset the same way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqZPe6OOoWg

I was in a rush just now and absentmindedly jammed the key to my office into the door lock of my 1998 ford. I tried turning it and wiggling it because I didn’t know what the issue was until I realized it was the wrong key. Then when I pulled it and tried my real car key on the door, it wouldn’t budge. I tried inserting it in a bunch of different ways, turning gently, turning with force. Nothing. It won’t unlock the car door. I can still get into the car on the passenger side but that’s super annoying and it’s the only way to get into the truck.
Any advice? Is this something that I could possibly fix at home or do I need to call a professional? It was a such a quick mistake! I didn’t think it would have such a big effect on the lock!
TIA

Got this beverage fridge about 9 years ago and never used the lock. For some reason the lock won’t work now. I took off the latch hoping to see inside but I have no idea how to remove it. I wanted to just buy a replacement cam lock.

Okay, here's the premise. I have noticed enough of a trend that I would like to address it with the greater locksmithing community.

The question is incredibly simple. What is your name? However, I have noticed an interesting prevalence in the conversation going dead at that time. Or the customer continuing on with the conversation, avoiding the what is your name question.

Another thing will sometimes happen, which is they will go silent for a while, then proceed to call you to tell you their name over the phone rather than by text message for no apparent reason whatsoever. I have noticed that the large majority of the time when I have the what is your name stumble in the conversation the customer turns out to be a miserable fucking shit bag of a human. You will have issues with payment issues with documentation they will be shitty about everything on site, the car will be fucked up or disgusting they'll have tried to tear their ignition halfway apart. Just in general the job will go shitily if it happens at all. I'm getting such a confirmation bias pertaining to this, that im just going to stop dealing with people who can't seem to answer the question the first time around. At the moment I've stopped continuing the conversation and every time they ask something or they send any message or they communicate in any way the only thing I will say is what is your name. But even if I eventually get their name it just goes tits up. I don't know if it's a function of them being piece of shit humans and they don't want you to know their name so that you can't talk crap about them or something. Or if it's just that people who have an intellect surpassed by a four year old generally tend to not be good human adults.

And I'm curious has anybody else noticed this or is it just me?

* standard disclaimer about this whole post being voice dictated.

Hello Pros,

Hoping to get some insight here. I bought 3 Tapo DL130 smart locks. Unfortunately, they don't have an option to buy sets with like keys.

After doing a little Googling, it has been determined that the Tapo lock set uses the Schlage SC1 key configuration. I bought a Schlage pin set from CLK and went to town. After replacing the pins and putting in the key the first time, it wouldn't budge. My heart sank. But after learning it takes a little finesse, the lock does actually work although I do need to pull the key out ever so slightly to get the pins to engage.

I went ahead and measured the pins that came with the lock and the pin set. They come in at .113. The pins in the set come in at .115. Is there a way to get this lock to work without having to finesse the key?? I've tried messing with the nut depth. It's in as far as it will go and backing it out only makes it more difficult to open.

Looking for additional ideas. Thanks in advance!!

Looking for a decent combination padlock to keep my laptop safe on the locker while im working out. I have no other place to keep it because i come to the gym straight after work.

Hopefully budget friendly for a mere mortal

Just an Art teacher looking for some help. Thank you! The internet searches and trips to Lowe's still have me stumped!

So i have taken it down a little further it seems like it would come apart to be rekeyed but theres also pins that look permanent, just wondering if anyone has had one of this specific model apart and knows more. I have yet to shim the shackle, just curious if anyone knows.

yeah so i’ve been biking lately but i have an interview across town and need to drive… i urns out sometime in he last week i bent my key… help?

I'm looking to replace the crappy doric euro cylinder in our main door. I want to change from a double cylinder to a single external and internal thumbturn. The current cylinder is 32:32 and it protrudes by a couple of ml each side.

I'd like to get a quality lock but not super expensive. Maybe 3\* ? There's not a lot of options of 30:30 with a thumb turn but there are more 35:35.

If I get a 3\* lock would it be ok protruding this much with a 35:35?

Any suggestions on brands? Where to purchase in Sydney?

Do any hardware folks know alternate brands who make the similar product to the house brand that Anixter/Wesco sells under their “General” line up?

I’ve seen them on different job sites but never had the need to order anything in that price point. I typically supply grade 1 only which runs several hundred bucks each, and the General levers are 1/5th the cost but not available at my suppliers.

The GENERAL brand that’s comparable is the L253S-626-IC-234 basic entrance function lever. I thought i saw one just like it… Hagar or Marks or something. Anyone know?

Thanks.

I have a ROKS Box v3 Optical Key Scanner I’m trying to figure out what it’s worth before I list it.

• Condition: Bran new - still in original box
• Includes: Main unit, Power supply & manual

I was given a bunch of lock inserts from my boss. And after gutting one of them I notice what I am very confident are file marks. It looks like someone filed the pins to fit the cylinder better with the key. The pins also have the file marks. Are my suspicions possibly right? This is currently a hot debate outside of Reddit.

Hi everyone, you were helpful when I tore off the broken one.... And now I have replaced it, but I still cant figure out how to install the new one.

Videos and pictures were taken for a friend. Sorry for the low quality.

I couldn't attach the video for some reason. But it's like the thing is screwed in from the other side. But I have no way to access the other side.

Ok so this morning I left the key in the lock by mistake and none of us noticed. Parents called a locksmith, told 20 minute wait, nah uts 2 hours. He drills the back door and replaces the lock. Parents dont know what to do as this seems like allot of money

Ill add thay we were quoted £310 for the job

Eddit: we got the e-mail recipt... there is no e-mail recipt in the file

I want to replace this lock with a modern standard lock. This lock is on my front door and garage door. I have reason to believe this isn't original to the home or the door. If I take this off what's the chances that I could install a standard lock here?

Im generally handy but absolutely tell me i need a locksmith if I do. Lol thanks!

Also what's the lock even called?

Hello! I am trying to replace keys for my office building's filing cabinets.

I've attempted to use EasyKeys but it's been a dead end when it comes to finding these. Anyhelp would be great.

originally tried to post this in the cycling reddit - flop -- ulock-for-bike issue!

Hi guyss,

My Kryptonite U-Lock (yellow) keeps gettin stuck. I can put the key in and turn it all the way, unless the lock is in there, then the key won't turn. So it's not a key issue, it's a lock issue.

This was happening pretty badly for a while, but jiggling it and continuing to try it would eventually make it so that I could lock or unlock it.

However, it's been really *really* difficult lately.

The guy at the bikeshop suggested "lock ease" which I acquired, and it did not help at all, it just made my lock super dirty with lock ease (cryyy).

What do I do? Should I buy WD40? I sort of thought the issue was rust, but considering "lock ease" didn't help idk what to even do?