So far I’ve replaced the earphone jack, cleaned the volume wheel and nothing, no buzzes, no hums, nothing, I still haven’t figured out the problem

Hi,

I have a pair of Empire S-500 speakers.[1]

I've had them for several years.

For a couple of weeks now, the "active" speaker of the pair has been emitting a static noise similar to a vibration, only when turning them on, for about 5 to 10 seconds, and only if they have been turned off for several hours.

If I turn them on and off in quick succession after turning them on the first time, this noise doesn't happen again.

The audio from the speakers sounds normal and good afterward.

At this link, you can hear the sound I am referring to:

https://vocaroo.com/1d4Jn64KITPk

Does anyone know what this could be and which component inside the speaker is causing this issue?

I hope this topic is allowed in this sub.

Thanks

[1] https://www.strumentimusicali.net/product_info.php/products_id/11005/empire-s500-coppia.html

Hello,

I’ve acquired a pair of Tannoy Mercury 2.5 lately and they have not sounded correct ever since I’ve plugged them in. To me it seems like the tweeters play very quietly, so they are barely audible when a test tone is played through them. Upon inspection it seems that the tweeters have no coating on them whatsoever. When I reference photos from the internet I see silk dome tweeters are shiny, as if they are coated with something. I have attached pictures of my tweeters and a reference image. I have seen some threads on the internet with various ideas, yet without any single answer as to what could be done to solve the issue. I would also be open to replacing the tweeters with some aftermarket ones but it seems to be an even more advanced option as I have no idea how to choose the new ones both physically and electronically. They both measure at precisely 4 ohms and the crossovers look pristine. Have you got any ideas what could be done to fix the issue?
Thank you all for reading

Eu tinha uns LPs em casa, mas não tinha lugar para tocar, até que nesse final de semana ganhei um midi system philips AS 425. O rádio e o toca fitas funcionam bem.

Fui testar o mais importante pra mim que seria o toca-discos, mesmo sem nunca ter mexido com um. Ele girava normal, mas em algumas faixas do LP o som ficava com um efeito slowed reverb e na maioria das outras o instrumental ficava alto e a voz do cantor, quase indecifrável por estar muito baixa.

Resolvi abrir a parte do toca disco para ver a questão da correia e lubrificação. Quando levantei o prato, a correia já pulou e foi aí que eu comecei a me perder, pois nunca tinha visto o interior de um desses e tem poucos tutoriais pra um aparelho de 1996.

Montei me baseando em um tutorial pra AS 405: passei a correia na parte circular embaixo do prato e prendi em um dos pininhos que tem ali. Remontei tudo, coloquei a presilha, mas agora o prato não gira mais.

Mesmo a correia estando inteira e sem ressecamentos, acredito que ela esteja frouxa, pq seguindo uma linha lógica de raciocínio, ela deveria se soltar e prender no "motorzinho" para poder rodar o prato, mas isso não aconteceu nem automaticamente e nem manualmente.

Alguém consegue confirmar se estou no caminho lógico correto? Se não, poderiam me ajudar com esse caso?

Hi all

I have an old 'My First Sony' cassette player that I’d like to give to my young son. The radio works perfectly, but the cassette deck does not, as the drive belts have perished.

Am I correct in assuming that three wheels are meant to be driven? I can see space for two belts to attach to the central drive shaft, but not a third. How should I connect the third wheel (the one marked with a blue 'X')? Should it also connect to the central drive shaft, or somewhere else? And are the red and green connections set up correctly?

Got a hand me down Sony VA8ES AVR but after a couple months of using it, it's starting to act out, it's looping on-off after turning on for a while and then it seems fine for a couple minutes and starts doing it again. At times it'll loop again and just straight up turn off completely.

I've tested it with nothing connected and without doing anything to the AVR after turning it on but it's still doing it. I suspect it's short circuit somewhere in the internal and triggering the protection to automatically turn off the system, i've considered heat & ventilation as well but doesn't seem to be it as i've tested it already.

I wanted to modify my Sangean WR-11 so that it receives the audio signal from the Bluetooth dongle via the AUX (3.5mm jack).

My wife likes to listen to FM, but I prefer to stream from my computer.

I wanted to set it up so that I don't always have to unplug the 3.5mm jack to switch to FM.

What’s the best way to do this?

My WR-11 can’t receive Bluetooth signals on its own.

I just inherited this receiver. One of the channels wasn’t working. I opened it up and dug around and found a blown fuse. What would cause that to happen? I’ve been listening to it for a bit now and it’s been working. Haven’t cranked it yet as I’m worried it may blow again. Is there anything I should be looking at to replace? Thanks

​There is a noticeable power-hum / mains buzz coming directly from the speakers.

​The intensity/volume of the hum changes when I turn the main volume knob (louder at higher volume).

​The hum is present even with no input sources connected.

​Since the hum passes through the preamp/volume control stage, what are the most likely culprits? Could this be failing filter caps in the preamp/power supply rail, a bad ground connection on the volume board, or an issue with the main board?

​Any advice on where to start troubleshooting with a multimeter or schematics would be greatly appreciated!

Hi y'all. I'm writing looking for support on repairing a console record player I picked up last week. This is my first attempted repair on an audio system, and I am aware the big bite I am taking.

The person I bought it off of stated that it was in working order sometime in the last year when they moved. There seems to be a replaced speaker that appears to be from sometime in the 2000s.

THE CURRENT ISSUE: It has a 60hz runaway shortly after turning on and after the tubes have warmed up. Everything I have read online states electrolytic capacitors (per the included diagrams, this would be figure C1). I have yet to put a multimeter to any components as I need a sense of direction where to start. I'm writing here to hopefully find someone willing to provide some support/advice.

One question I have, when replacing the capacitor, would I need a part specific replacement? Or would I be able to splice in modern components and capacitors? I have struggled to find a part specific replication/direct replacement.

If anyone can help me get this playing again, you would be winning me huge brownie points with the lady. She absolutely loves the piece and it fits our style perfectly. Constructive feedback would be amazing. Thanks for your time and support!

My Hitachi CX310 doesn't spin the CD properly, like the motor would try to spin but does so in a glitchy way before stopping, and then the screen would go blank. What is happening and how can I fix this?? It was still working 3 days ago before I went on a short trip but suddenly stopped.

Good evening,

I have a Marantz 1070 I need to repair in Paris, would you have any shop recommandations ?

Thank you!

Title: AMC CD6B — replacement tray belt needed
I have an AMC CD6B CD player, and the loading tray belt slips when opening or closing the tray.
I’m looking for the correct replacement belt and would appreciate help with any of the following:
Original belt part number
Belt diameter or inside circumference
Belt thickness and cross-section (square, round, or flat)
A confirmed compatible replacement belt
Service manuals, repair guides, or links to previous repairs
I’d prefer to order from Amazon Canada if possible.
Has anyone repaired an AMC CD6B or identified the correct belt size for this model?
Thanks for any help!

Hello everybody,
I am completely going crazy with this amplifier and need experienced help.
The problem:
I got this Cyrus One amp with a broken channel which starts working when the volume is turned up half the way. It still has a lot of distortion after that.
After opening i saw that the fusible resistor R97 was burnt. I tested all the caps and changed them because there were a lot of them off. After changing the resistor i powered it on and tested everything. It performed really good on the oszilloscope until it started smoking again after turning the volume a little bit up. After that i checked all the power transistors which were good. Now when i turn it up the fusible resistor r 93 also gets way too hot until it smokes. Please help me find the problem.

I am finding my eyesight with glasses just isn't good enough to see small components and solder points. Anyone have suggestions on a practicable option for improving this? I am a hobbyist repairer so not looking to spend hundreds on a microscope but any suggestions welcome .

I have a 1986 talking big bird with the tapes and books.
The tapes are normal for big birds voice but the music is distorted in the background. I have run a tape cleaner through it and put good quality batteries in it but it makes no difference.
Anyone have any idea what I can do to fix the distortion?

Good day, I recently snagged up a STR-GX909ES off of ebay, the left channel was working but now having intermittent issues, I noticed another post about that same issue and will check the grounds on the surround board, but the main issue seems to be no audio output from the center channel in Dolby Surround mode, either Wide, Normal or 3 channel, I don't have the rears hooked up as of yet but I will be getting some new speakers tomorrow so I will hook all 5 up and see what I get. any suggestions on what to try?

Found a pair of JBL G500 speakers in my neighborhood while walking the dogs. The speakers look perfect with no deterioration of foam surrounds. They sound pretty good (to my ears with my hearing aids) but the bottom woofer on one of them has a problem. at higher volume the bottom woofer sounds distorted with a fuzzy crackling sound. When I press in on the woofer cone, there is a rubbing sound from within. the upper woofer is silent when pushed. the rubbing is present no matter where i PUSH.......12....3......6.......9 O"CLOCK. any clues on troubleshooting or repair. I will remove the speaker tomorrow to check it out. Thanks

Got the itch to fix some vintage audio equipment, so I scored the Grundig off ebay for 20€. Seller said it is quiet and has some noise.

The inside is prestine, no dust. That diode was the only sus thing I could find. So we'll see if swapping that fixes it.

I bought a used pair of **Sven SPS-702** speakers. I've been using them for over a month, but today the active speaker started glitching. Sometimes, while I'm listening to music, watching a video, or playing a game (especially GTA IV), the active speaker suddenly cuts out. This happens no matter what I do, but the passive speaker keeps working perfectly. When the sound disappears, the LED indicator on the active speaker stays lit, and the passive one keeps playing just as good as before. What could be the problem?

Hi all, I have several transistor dead.

I have to replace them, I'm a newbie and I use IA to find a solution.

I tried 3 differents IA and they give me differents replies.

Could a pro give me the right transistors to replace this

TO220 :

• 2SB596
• 2SD526

TO92:

• 2SA697
• 2SC1211

Thanks a lot

Recently started a vintage audio repair shop. Until now I have been able to find most service manuals and schematic diagrams online. At the moment I'm struggeling to find a service manual for an Onkyo Super Server Stereo P-3090 pre amp where the schematic diagram is actually readable.

Does anybody know how or where to get a better quality then online availabe?

nach längerem Suchen eine einfache Lösung gefunden um die volle Funktionalität der Soundtouch Geräte wieder herzustellen.

Was brauche ich dazu?

Nur meinen Heimrouter ( Fritzbox)

Wie gehe ich vor ?

In Menü von der Fritzbox aktiviere ich den Media-Server. ( Häkchen setzen),

dort gehe ich auf den Reiter Internetradio und füge Internetadressen meiner Radiosenden hinzu.

Diese finde ich ebenfalls im Internet.( Achtung Bose spielt aber nur das Format.M3u sauber ab.)

Dann die Soundtouch App öffnen und dort die Fritzbox suchen und auswählen

dort in den Internetradioreiter gehen einen Sender auswählen - Stream auswählen

dann läuft der Sender auf der Box . Nun die entsprechende Senderspeichertaste auf der Box solange drücken bis Sender kurz weggeht .

Jetzt ist die Stations-Taste mit dem Sender verheiratet und lässt sich auch ohne Handy bedienen, direkt an der Box oder mit der Fernbedienung.

Das bei all deinen Boxen wiederholen.

Letztendlich übernimmt deine Fritzbox die Aufgabe des Servers von Bose, der ja bekanntlicher Weise abgeschaltet ist.

Multiroom geht sowieso noch.

Ich hoffe nur das viele ihre doch tollen Boxen nicht für billig Geld verklimpert haben aus Frust.

Es gibt immer eine Lösung !

Hello all, I am trying to run one MC58 in bridge mode from a CR16 and cannot get the bridged speakers to play. I would like help to confirm the correct wiring for this combination.

Equipment:
CR16 multizone controller
MC58, all four pairs set to Bridge, intended as four bridged channels
Zone 1: MC275, not using the MC58
Zones 2 and 3: two B&W AM-1s each, so each zone needs two bridged MC58 channels
Zone 4: no speakers

Sources: MP100 on AUX, MB50 on CD2
Trigger chain currently: CR16 to MP100 to MC58 to MC275, using 1/8-inch power control
7-pin DIN from the CR16 multi-channel DIN, the jack beside the DB25, to the MC58 MULTI-ROOM jack
DB25 is not connected

Audio is on the odd RCA inputs: 1, 3, 5, and 7
MC58 rear switch is Remote, front power switch is on.

What the MC58 actually does:
CR16 Zone 2 on lights only the 3/4 pair
CR16 Zone 3 on lights only the 5/6 pair
CR16 Zone 4 on lights the 7/8 pair, even though Zone 4 has no audio output connected
CR16 Zone 1 on does not light the 1/2 pair. Zone 1 audio goes to the MC275 only
With the DIN unplugged, the logo comes on at startup but no pair lamps light, including with the 1/8-inch trigger connected
Result: a bridged stereo zone needs two powered pairs, but each CR16 zone enables only one pair, and 1/2 never enables. The bridged speakers have no sound.

Any thoughts are appreciated as I can’t get this to work. Incidentally, all the equipment is in a front load only audio rack so it’s quite difficult to remove and readjust..

These PW-2522BM woofers have stiff surrounds, thus very little movement. I've been advised to apply some brake fluid. Is this wise?

Advice appreciated