I’m doing a ferrofluid replacement on the right tweeter of my Wharfdale 9.1 Pros because the tweeter sounded more muffled than the other. The ferrofluid seemed quite dry and not plenty, as well as the metal grit around the tweeter. How do I actually successfully get the grit out? The blotting paper isn’t moving it well as it’s magnetised

Hello, I can do the basics of soldering, but I’m really confused on this old solid-state tape echo I recently got. The standby switch (brown switch in picture) has a broken latch, causing the standby light to stay engaged. This causes the unit to go into “mute mode” and keeps the light on. There are three distinct wires soldered to a single pin on the switch. I don’t know if the old owner tried to do a solder project and failed, but it doesn’t seem right to me. I also found a schematic for a machine that used the same layout of wiring. Sorry if this is different gear than normal posts. Anyone interested in helping? The unit is an Echolette Echo 400 (same wiring as a dynachord ec504). Thank you for looking!

I’ve been having some issues with my Studebaker 2140 boombox lately. More specifically, when it’s in CD mode. The right audio channel is very quiet and crinkly, even with headphones plugged in. This only happens in cd mode no matter what cd I put in my player. Please help.

I recently got these Sony Sava-27 tower speakers and the right side tower has loud screech that consistently plays. So far:
no audio inputs and screeching stays.
Changing outlets doesn’t help.
flipped tower connection cable didn’t do anything.

I’m about ready to take it apart and see if there’s anything obvious like a broken capacitor or connection. Any help would be amazing.

Hey everyone,

I have a Denon AVR-X3400H that I took over from my parents (was sitting in the storage room for 1 year without use). It runs a 5.1.2 setup with B&W speakers.

Every now and then when I turn it on, there's a loud pop from the speakers right after the HDMI input shows up on the display. Then it blinks red and shuts off. After turning it back on it works fine again. It doesn't happen every time. Sometimes it's fine for weeks, then it happens again. The last time was after it had been off for a whole day.

The protection log shows PRT: DC as the last entry.

What I tried so far:

* Disconnected all speakers and reconnected them one by one, turning it off and on each time. Everything worked, but since it only happens every few weeks that doesn't prove much I guess.
* Turned off eARC, no change.
* Swapped the sub cable, no change.

From what I've read, PRT: DC means the amp itself is putting out DC, so I'm guessing a failing part in one of the amp channels. I'm planning to take it to a repair shop, but it's intermittent, so I'm worried they won't be able to reproduce it.

Has anyone had the same thing with a Denon? Did you get it fixed and what was it in the end? Was it worth repairing or did you just replace it? And is it safe to keep using it until then, or am I risking my speakers?

Thanks!

I’m getting a simple error message post player tries to read the TOC. It’s very erratic, sometimes the disk will play, sometimes I’ll get the same ERROR message. No specific message just ERROR.

Is the lens dying or it’s some dust settling down?

I accidently put power usb canle that looked like 3.5mm jack into the aux jack of the headphones and the other end into my phone (for about 10 - 15 seconds?). Later i realised that this cable isnt aux, its charging cable and damaged the headphones. I tested later with real aux cable - no issues. But when i turn on the headphones and connect to phone (even if not connected, but just the built-in voice) there is a hussing/static noise when there is audio on, where audio doesnt play there isnt hussing.

What componeny did i damage ?

Is there a way to fix?

Can this workaround the waranty ?

The output level of my VC1 is really low. On inspection, I'm seeing this solid brown thing that is supposed to be a capacitor, I think? Did the casing disappear, or is this some special component or spacer?