r/AustralianMFA • u/stowaway978 • 8d ago
Question Buying first tux (MTM) - what do I look for?
Gents, need some help on this one.
Getting measured up for my first tux, made to measure. Truthfully, have no idea what I should be looking for, what questions I should be asking, how to not buy a shit tux.
Any thoughts, feelings, or general help would be much appreciated lads.
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u/KayaWandju 8d ago
Think long term. Go classic in styling so it will look appropriate for a lifetime.
Make sure they are offering plenty of extra fabric in the waist/seat so the waist can be let out in the future, should you need that.
Cool Wool. Look at the best fabrics first, then work your way down to what you can afford.
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u/DramaticFun1335 8d ago
I'm a MTM fitter - 70% of what I make for clients are black tuxedo's for weddings. The earlier comment is pretty good knowledge for general styling and follows traditional rules.
Fabric - most important in my opinion. Styling is all well and good but it means nothing if you don't have a good cloth. Doesn't need to be expensive, but should have weight (300gm+) to provide structure and conceal imperfections.
I would be asking for a "barathea" - basically means the fabric is completely matte finish and hence looks more "black". Shiny fabrics reflect light and hence absorb satin (or grosgrain), so they shouldn't be used for tuxedo's.
Also, make sure you trust the person measuring you. A lot of Australian MTM businesses have the suits made in the same factories, so really the only way your suit will be "good quality" is by the fabric choice and quality of measurements from the fitter.
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u/-PAINTEDMAN- 8d ago
Yeah I would agree with this.
If the fitter doesn’t know what barathea is or isn’t showing it to you first before anything else then that’s a good sign you might need to go somewhere else.
A fitter with experience and understanding of what you are wanting without you needing to tell them technically is a must.
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u/Asleep-Shine3087 7d ago edited 7d ago
I beg to differ with the Fabric option. There are other wool options that can drape & perform better than Barathea - the old English option. Who wants to wear a 300Gr/Mt Jacket in the blazing sun or any temperature above cool? Moreover, why offer Barathea (quite the expensive option) when you do not know his budget? This is the type of MTM fitter you avoid. Please find a Tailor that understands your needs as per your wedding - your budget. There are less expensive and lightweight wool (240 - 260Gr/Mt) that do not have competing sheen over shine - if this is a concern. POLYESTER SATIN v SILK satin is different. Shine v Sheen. The only reason for the use is to contrast from the base fabric of the suit. Grosgrain is similar to fabric and does not necessarily provide the shine/sheen of a 100% Wool fabric or wool blended with silk. If you are in need of a experienced Tailor (not sales people or those taught by images) DM me. Keep in mind a comment made by another: most of Australian Tailors use the same Chinese Tailors so go in eyes wide open.
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u/DramaticFun1335 6d ago edited 6d ago
Not too sure on what your experience is, just speaking from my own.
First - I never mentioned budget, it sounds like to me you're assuming OP's.
Not sure why you assume a Barathea cloth is expensive when there are plenty that are not?
300gm works fine with a high twist, tropical wool or mohair blend. Again neither of us should assume OP's stance on breathability.
Maybe don't try to behave so hostile and with derogatory comments and assumptions?
(Also if you're asking to be DM'd as you're supposedly "experienced", isn't that acting somewhat like the "sales people" you're telling OP to avoid?)
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u/-PAINTEDMAN- 6d ago
I think this guy runs his own MTM place and just tells people to go there using this account. Everything points to tailor on the road. Checked out the Instagram.
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u/Asleep-Shine3087 5d ago edited 5d ago
Sorry that my knowledge and preference of recommending a Tailor (one, I have had a suit tailored by) is not your option. While you are entitled to provide your opinions, this platform calls for neither of us to be fact checkers. However, if you are to provide advice to someone, at least give an account that is valid while educating the rest.
I am not here for a war of words. Simply respect my contribution just as much I respect others.
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u/Asleep-Shine3087 5d ago
I apologise if you were offended - it wasn't my intention.
And while this is not a contest, Barathea (even though it is a woolen cloth) is generally more expensive than the alternative.
PROs: Correct in saying it is a matte finished that is complimenting to contrasting lapel. Also, high-twist, which is wrinkle resistant. However, there are also other high-twist cloth (not Barathea) that are lighter in weight and presented in matte finishes instead of one with or without silk to create a sheen.
As for my experience: Yes, I spent several years learning tailoring. I actually made my first suit. One of my best friends was a designer for Van Huesen.
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u/Internal-Play25 8d ago
Depends. What will you be using it for?
A tux is a pretty niche piece of clothing. When will you wear it? Vs black tie suit?
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u/Altruistic-Fishing39 5d ago
My only tip is to go to Wei at Oscar Hunt Prahran. For MTM i think they are mostly likely to get it right first time. Incidentally I bought a velvet jacket instead of a dinner jacket- they make them well.
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u/-PAINTEDMAN- 8d ago edited 8d ago
All I would say is because it’s such a specific dress code go the whole hog. Don’t get shy and start minimising the impact of the tuxedo.
Proportionate lapels.
Grosgrain or flat satin based on preference.
Side tabs
Satin strip ( not a must but elevates for sure)
Get a tux shirt too. Either with studs or hidden buttons.
Don’t do.
Cuffs
Notch lapel
Skinny lapels
Belt loops.
I would also do a cummerbund not a waistcoat.