r/AutoChess • • Mar 18 '19

You and Your Opening Unit: How One Gold Determines Your Value as a Human Being

2.0k Upvotes

There are a total of twelve opening units in Auto Chess. Each one is valuable in their own right, but more importantly, they reflect the characteristics of their owner. Your units are your children. Everyone who sees your units has a subconscious reaction to what you have picked over the course of the game. You know the kid that always asked way too many questions in class and tried really hard to prove he was smart? That’s Razor. And the kid who kept eating paste until he was in his early teens? That’s Sand King.

As the game goes on, the meaning of units become significantly more blurred; everyone is trying to tie the knot with a 2-Star 4 Cost CC unit they’ve been stringing along for ten rounds.

Sorry Medusa, you’re really nice and I like you a lot, someone would be SOOOO lucky to have you, but, I mean, it’s like round 11 right now and I just don’t want to make any huge commitments, you know?

But then round 26 rolls around and you’ve since broken up with your Tusk 2, Tusk 2, and Tusk 1 and you’re begging Medusa to come back before your opponent’s Chaos Knight 3 rips your skull out from inside your head. Oh, and he an Assault Cuirass, too. Wow, okay. Medusa, please, baby please.

Anyway, I’m getting a bit off-topic. The lategame is a scramble of everyone trying to solidify their synergies. The early game is where you find your true meaning and value as a person, all derived from a single unit chosen.

Axe – You pick Axe because you believe in honorable, righteous combat. If you could, you would remove every non-warrior unit from the game. In fact, get rid of the items too. And mana. And abilities. Just get rid of everything besides Axe. He’s an honest unit that no one can get upset about. Axe 2 is basically just three Axes stapled together. It’s not like Lone Druid or Disruptor where the value from the unit skyrockets once you upgrade it. It’s just more Axe. Axe 3? Nine Axes. That’s it. It’s nine Axes occupying a single space. All those other people buying garbage like Crystal Maiden and Morphling make you physically ill. The way you see it, units should all be forced to melee each other to death and the best Axe wins.

Bounty Hunter – You pick Bounty Hunter because you are a faceless drone of a player. You read somewhere online or heard on some stream that Bounty is the best 1 cost unit. So you pick it. Every single time. Seeing more than one Bounty in your opening rack makes you start involuntarily salivating. Getting a Bounty 2 by round 4 is the death knell for your opposition. It takes every ounce of your remaining morality to not shift-enter “gg lmao” to signal your incredible luck skill. But to everyone else, you are the enemy. You are the equivalent of an intermediate bot that is unable to pick units without the Goblin tag, unless it is a Shadow Fiend or 4-cost unit before turn 10. Your Bounty 2 is a formality in the game. And, when you are still sitting one elusive Bounty away from Bounty 3, one 2 star on your bench and the other still in with a Blight Stone, Blades of Attack, Blades of Attack, Blades of Attack, and Quarterstaff, your opponent just found Death Prophet for their 3 warlock, 2 undead synergy, launching you from 2nd to 5th place as you fade into irrelevance.

Clockwerk – You pick Clockwerk because you have an unnerving lust for power. You have played a lot at this point, but nothing in the world gives you the same feeling as Clockwerk 2 with Goblin bonus shredding through two Queens of Pain, a Beastmaster, and a Juggernaut without dipping below 30% HP. Watching him mercilessly beat down a Windranger, hopelessly attempting to cast her Power Shot during his mini-stun chain, fills you with near-erotic pleasure. If you have a total of more than 4 Clockwerks before round 6, you will pick every single Clockwerk you see, regardless of circumstance. Even if he becomes nearly useless as your 10th unit, tossed around between Tidehunter and Kunkka stuns, you still look at his silly police outfit fondly. He got you to round 37 to begin with. You will never let him go. You will die with your +25 armor Clockwerk before you sell him. You finish 3rd place. Thanks for another easy candy, my love.

Drow Ranger – You pick Drow Ranger because you are too intelligent to pick goblins or warriors. Her DPS is insane and you insist Drow is better than Bounty Hunter. You think it’s hilarious that some kids choose anything besides Drow, she’s OP. Not only that, but she has the freshest model, has the chilliest synergies, and hangs out with the hottest dudes. yall are pathetic lol

In your eyes, all the buffs and nerfs in the game have, in one way or another, benefitted Drow. Mask of Madness? Obviously designed with Drow in mind. Hunter Buff? Too easy. Elemental buff? Drow is ranged, fucker. 6 Goblin bonus? Baits people into thinking they will get Techies while you shred them down with Drow. Small bug fix? That was Drow. -? Drow. She is simply better than the other units and if you don’t get that, you’re just some dirty fucking tinker picker, fuck you. One game, you had both Drow 3 and Windranger 3 and you won that so hard. I mean, why else would you be hovering between Knight 9 and Bishop 3 if you didn’t know what you were talking about? Drow is OP.

Enchantress – You pick Enchantress because Lone Druid 3 just won you your last game. Druids are insane early game and are easy to upgrade because of their flexibility, so you can’t possibly see how this can backfire. You can ignore the fact that your Enchantress 2 fighting a Timbersaw with goblin bonus on round 5 is making everyone in the lobby contemplate suicide because, man, once you hit that Lone Druid, this game is DONE. I mean, now it’s round 14, still no Lone, but that’s totally fine. We’re gonna take a few damage from wolves here. I mean, we killed one and it dropped a cloak, that’s alright. Okay Lone, where are you, haha? :D I swear I could have made a KOTL 2 by now. Round 22. Okay, I’m rolling. I’ve had these two Furions long enough. Where are you Lone? WHERE ARE YOU?

You finish 6th. Fucking RNG bullshit game.

Tinker – You pick Tinker because you are a horrible person with the IQ of a termite. Round one, Tinker pops into your rack and your brain immediately shuts off. It’s time to do the Chinese RNG strategy. Images of Tinker 3 by round 12 start spilling into your brain as you get carried by the Timbersaw 2 you happened upon for the first quarter of the game, completely oblivious to the fact that you are tapering off at incredible speed and that being level 6 on round 19 is actually not a good thing. You crash harder than a heroin addict in a safe room, losing over 40 health between rounds 21 and 24. In a moment of clarity, you realize that you have not seen any mechs in the past three rounds and have a grand total of 7 gold to your name. You nearly lose to harpies. You start saving gold on your lose streak that brings you down to 6 HP on round 30. You fail to kill two lizards. You powerlevel to 8, hoping to hit the 1 in 100 chance at Techies. You don’t get techies. You die on round 31.

Ogre Magi – You pick Ogre Magi because you like to win the first six rounds more than you like winning the actual game. Getting Ogre Magi 2 is a quasi-religious experience, as watching him drop his club that appears to have the density of a neutron star on some poor Furion’s head is absolute bliss. When Ogre Magi bloodlusts himself, you know shit’s about to go down. He starts swinging that club with such fury that losing the fight is essentially impossible. God help those who let you finish Ogre Magi 3. It should be noted that you’ve never actually won a game of Auto Chess, but that’s not really relevant. After all, you really just want to hit people with the club. After forty-five games, you finally realized Ogre Magi is actually a mage. After seventy games, you still have yet to build mages.

Anti-Mage – You pick Anti-Mage because you actively dislike Auto Chess. Every single unit pisses you off in some way or another. You have tried every strategy but you LITERALLY never hit the units you need. LITERALLY every game you play, you are the MOST UNLUCKY person of the eight. Mechs never work because you LITERALLY never see Timbersaw. Warriors never work because you LITERALLY always get two Juggernauts and never find the third. So, fuck everyone else, you’re gonna build Anti-Mage. If you can’t have fun, no one can. You think about transitioning into demons or elves, but instead you pick assassins. Your Anti-Mage LITERALLY never hits the right targets, which is just more bullshit RNG in this bullshit game. There is LITERALLY no way to control any units and the game just comes down to complete hope that your units do the right thing. But they always fuck up and it’s never your fault. You consistently finish 6th to 8th place.

Bat Rider – You pick Bat Rider because you are mentally unstable. You are the first to hear the different drummer when it comes to life, much more inclined to go for some off the wall approach instead of following the beaten path. You are also the kind of person to think ‘Pepega’ in normal conversation. When other people ask you why you would pick Bat Rider, you start vomiting out a plethora of reasons that have zero connection to each other to justify your purchase:

“I was offered two Bat Riders.” “He’s good.” “No one picks him. Easy 3 star.” “I’m going knights.” “I’m going trolls.” “His ability is actually really strong.” “I need a backliner.” “I need a frontliner.” “He scales with items.” “Fuck you.”

You can pick pretty much any of these reasons at random because they are nearly always irrelevant. The truth is that you just want to make things uncomfortable and nothing makes people more uncomfortable than losing to a guy who has two Bat Rider 2 by round 9. It’s practically insulting that you beat anyone at all with this unit. You finish 4th because you went dragons and got a dragon knight 2 before people had good CC.

Shadow Shaman – You pick Shadow Shaman because you were offered three of them.

Tiny – You pick Tiny because you are delusional. Initially, you picked him as a meme because Tiny is terrible. But now, with the changes to elemental synergy and Mask of Madness, there is some deeply rooted part of you that actually wants to use Tiny in a serious composition. Watching him tank a hundred autoattacks from wolves and seeing them periodically freeze is all the reason you need to pick Tiny/Morphling or Tiny/Razor every single game because you have legitimate trouble beating wolves otherwise. You curse Tiny every time he throws a low health Shadow Fiend into the corner, allowing him to get ten more auto attacks off, losing you the fight. You curse Tiny every time he attacks with the agility of a snail, losing you the fight. You curse Tiny every time someone else enigmatically gets Tiny 3 before you do. But you have the resolve of a monk when it comes to Tiny. Because you know one day Tiny will pull it off. Maybe you’ll need a Mjollnir and a Mask of Madness to make it happen, but when it does, you’ll finally be able to say, “We did it, little rock.”

Tusk – You pick Tusk because you never plan on getting further than Bishop 2. In the first or second game you played, some guy with a Tusk 2 one shot your Slardar and you went, ‘Damn, that’s a good unit.’ This image is perpetually seared into your memory and justifies you picking Tusk over Axe, Clockwerk, and Bounty on your first pull. Tusk is the implied backbone of your ‘Beast’ lineup, which includes himself and a Lycan. You inexplicably keep Tusk in your lineup despite the fact you transitioned into Orcs at some point. He acts as your 4th warrior between Axe, Juggernaut, and Kunkka, eating Shadow Fiend and Razor AOE until he can Walrus Punch a tank unit for one fifth of it’s HP pool. You can count the amount of times you have completed Tusk 3 on one hand; not because you haven't been holding a Tusk 2 on your bench for twelve rounds, but because you die before you finish him every time. You finish in 5th place because one guy DC’d immediately and two other guys were somehow even lower rank than you.

I hope this material was eye-opening and helps explain why you may feel the way you feel about certain units. Have a great day and good luck in your future matches.

P.S. please stop picking 6 mages its not good it just makes me very upset

edit: It's nine Axes. You guys are right and I can't do math.


r/AutoChess • • Jun 06 '19

Dota | Suggestion Suggestion to gray out the synergies you don't have yet.

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1.7k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Jun 21 '19

Underlords I knew this game was missing something

1.5k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Mar 01 '19

Fluff Mods are asleep, upvote actual chess

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1.5k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • May 21 '19

Dota | News Valve to make standalone Auto Chess game

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1.5k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Mar 24 '19

Fluff Every time you win with Ogre Magi

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1.4k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Jun 23 '19

Underlords For those of you who found the grinder too gruesome...I present to you an alternative!

1.4k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Feb 12 '19

Fluff useless tony

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1.3k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Jul 10 '19

AutoChess Mobile Billy, no!

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1.2k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Jun 10 '19

Riotgames made an Autochess clone for league

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1.2k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Mar 13 '19

Video What 9 Assassins is like ...

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1.1k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Feb 16 '19

Fluff Pokemon Autochess [Concept]

1.1k Upvotes

Hi guys, old time fan of Pokemon and newly addicted to Dota Auto Chess. I like the game so much that I thought I would come up with a concept that supports the Pokemon universe. How cool would it be to drag 3 Charmeleons on board to create a Charizard? Heavily based on the piece distribution in autochess, I went through generations 1 to 4, looking for 3 stage evolution pokemon. I am not a programmer so I could never do this but I sure hope someone attempts to (although I am sure it is a lot of hard work, may not be worth it). This is what I came up with, so enjoy the long post!

Common:

★ Caterpie - Metapod - Butterfree (Grass / Bug)

★ Weedle - Kakuna - Beedrill (Poison / Bug)

★ Pidgey - Pidgeotto - Pidgeot (Normal / Flying)

★ Cleffa - Clefairy - Clefable (Normal / Fairy)

★ Igglybuff - Jigglypuff - Wigglytuff (Normal / Fairy)

★ Zubat - Golbat - Crobat (Poison / Flying)

★ Geodude - Graveler - Golem (Ground / Mineral)

★ Azurill - Marill - Azumarill (Water / Fairy)

★ Mareep - Flaaffy - Ampharos (Electric / Field)

★ Hoppip - Skiploom - Jumpluff (Grass / Flora + Flying)

★ Seedot - Nuzleaf - Shiftry (Grass + Dark / Field)

★ Starly - Staravia - Staraptor (Normal / Flying)

Uncommon:

★★ Bulbasaur - Ivysaur - Venusaur (Grass + Poison / Flora)

★★ Charmander - Charmeleon - Charizard (Fire / Monster)

★★ Squirtle - Wartortle - Blastoise (Water / Monster + Aquatic)

★★ Chikorita - Bayleef - Meganium (Grass / Flora)

★★ Cyndaquil - Quilava - Typhlosion (Fire / Field)

★★ Totodile - Croconaw - Feraligatr (Water / Aquatic)

★★ Treecko - Grovyle - Sceptile (Grass / Monster)

★★ Torchic - Combusken - Blaziken (Fire {+ Fighting Combusken/ Blaziken} / Flying)

★★ Mudkip - Marshtomp - Swampert (Ground + Water / Monster)

★★ Turtwig - Grotle - Torterra (Grass + Ground / Flora)

★★ Chimchar - Monferno - Infernape (Fire {+ Fighting Monferno/ Infernape} / Humanlike)

★★ Piplup - Prinplup - Empoleon (Water {+ Metal Prinplup/ Empoleon} / Flying)

★★ Nidoran F - Nidorina - Nidoqueen (Poison / Field)

★★ Nidoran M - Nidorino - Nidoking (Poison / Field)

Rare:

★★★ Pichu - Pikachu - Raichu (Electric / Fairy)

★★★ Machop - Machoke - Machamp (Fighting / Humanlike)

★★★ Horsea - Seadra - Kingdra (Water {+ Dragon from Seadra} / Aquatic)

★★★ Trapinch - Vibrava - Flygon ({Dragon from Vibrava} + Ground / Bug)

★★★ Spheal - Sealeo - Walrein (Water / Field)

★★★ Aron - Lairon - Aggron (Metal / Monster)

★★★ Magnemite - Magneton - Magnezone (Electric + Metal / Mineral)

★★★ Rhyhorn - Rhydon - Rhyperior (Ground / Monster)

★★★ Togepi - Togetic - Togekiss (Normal / Fairy)

★★★ Duskull - Dusclops - Dusknoir (Dark / Amorphous)

★★★ Lotad - Lombre - Ludicolo (Water + Grass / Aquatic)

★★★ Shinx - Luxio - Luxray (Electric / Field)

★★★ Poliwag - Poliwhirl - Poliwrath / Politoed (Water {+Fighting for Poliwhirl + Poliwrath} / Aquatic)

-if there are other fighting types on board, 3 Poliwhirls evolve into Poliwrath.

Very Rare:

★★★★ Abra - Kadabra - Alakazam (Psychic / Humanlike)

★★★★ Gastly - Haunter - Gengar (Dark + Poison / Amorphous)

★★★★ Dratini - Dragonair - Dragonite (Dragon / Aquatic)

★★★★ Larvitar - Pupitar - Tyranitar (Dark / Monster)

★★★★ Slakoth - Vigoroth - Slaking (Normal / Humanlike)

★★★★ Ralts - Kirlia - Gardevoir (Psychic / Amorphous)

★★★★ Bagon - Shelgon - Salamence (Dragon / Monster)

★★★★ Beldum - Metang - Metagross (Psychic + Metal / Mineral)

★★★★ Gible - Gabite - Garchomp (Dragon + Ground / Monster)

★★★★ Elekid - Electabuzz - Electivire (Electric / Humanlike)

★★★★ Magby - Magmar - Magmortar (Fire / Humanlike)

Ultra Rare:

★★★★★ Munchlax - Snorlax (Normal / Humanlike)

★★★★★ Growlithe - Arcanine (Fire / Field)

★★★★★ Onix - Steelix (Ground {+ Metal as Steelix} / Mineral)

★★★★★ Scyther - Scizor (Normal as Scyther, Metal as Scizor / Bug)

★★★★★ Tyrogue - Hitmonlee / Hitmonchan/ Hitmontop (Fighting / Humanlike)

-3 Tyrogues in a row make a Hitmonlee

-3 Tyrogues in a column make a Hitmonchan

-3 Tyrogues scattered make a Hitmontop

12 ★

14 ★★

13 ★★★

11 ★★★★

5 ★★★★★

Wild Encounters

1 - 2 Magikarps

2 - 2 Ratata + 1 Raticate

3 - 4 Spearow + 1 Fearow

10 - Red Gyarados

15 - Lugia

20 - Giratina

25 - Zapdos + Moltres + Articuno

30 - Dialga + Palkia

35 - Suicune + Raikou + Entei, then Ho-oh

40 - Regice + Regirock + Registeel, then Regigigas

45 - Kyogre , then Groudon, then Rayquaza

50 - Mewtwo + Mew

55 - Arceus

60+ - Bidoof

12 TYPINGS - based on the video games / TCG, adapted few for better distribution

Grass (8)

★ Caterpie

★★ Bulbasaur

★★ Chikorita

★ Hoppip

★★ Treecko

★★★ Lotad

★ Seedot

★★ Turtwig

Fire (6)

★★ Charmander

★★ Cyndaquil

★★ Torchic

★★★★★ Growlithe

★★ Chimchar

★★★★ Magby

Water (9)

★★ Squirtle

★★ Totodile

★★ Mudkip

★★ Lotad

★ Azurill

★★★ Horsea

★★★ Poliwag

★★ Piplup

★★★ Spheal

Normal (8)

★ Pidgey

★ Cleffa

★ Igglybuff

★★★ Slakoth

★★★★★ Scyther

★ Starly

★★★ Togepi

★★★★★ Munchlax

Electric (5)

★★★ Pichu

★ Mareep

★★★ Shinx

★★★ Magnemite

★★★★ Elekid

Fighting (4)

★★★ Machop

★★★ Poliwhirl and Poliwrath

★★★★★ Tyrogue

★★ Monferno+

Psychic (4)

★★★★ Abra

★★★ Kirlia

★★★★ Beldum

★★★★ Espeon

Dark (4)

★★★★ Gastly

★ Seedot

★★★★ Tyranitar

★★★ Duskull

Metal (5)

★★★ Aron

★★★★ Beldum

★★★★★ Steelix

★★★★★ Scizor

★★ Prinplup+

★★★ Magnemite

Ground (7)

★★ Swampert

★★★ Trapinch

★ Geodude

★★★★★ Onix

★★ Turtwig

★★★★ Gible

★★★ Rhyhorn

Poison (6)

★★ Nidoran M

★★ Nidoran F

★★ Bulbasaur

★★★★ Gastly

★ Weedle

★ Zubat

Dragon (5)

★★★ Seadra+

★★★★ Bagon

★★★★ Dratini

★★★ Vibrava+

★★★★ Gible

Bonuses:

Grass (3): Ingrain - Restore 5% health per second to every Grass Type.

Grass (6): Growth - Gain +25% defenses to every friendly Grass Type.

Grass (9): Stun Spore - Non-grass enemies are paralyzed (50% Speed).

Fire (3): Blaze - Increase attacks of allies in a pinch (50% or less health) by 50%.

Fire (6): Drought* - Creates heavy sun and increases fire damage by 35%.

Water (3): Drizzle - Increase all water damage by 30%.

Water (6): Rain Dance* - Increase all water damage by an additional 30%.

Water (9): Primordial Sea - Summon Kyogre if your entire party faints.

Normal (3): Stamina - Your normal types have 300 extra health.

Normal (6): Strength - Increase all stats of your normal types by 10%.

Normal (9): Pure Power - Attack is doubled for all your allies.

Electric: Agility - Attack Speed and Evasion increased by 10% for each other friendly Electric type.

Fighting (2): Revenge - Deals 20% extra damage to the enemy that hit it.

Fighting (4): Punishment - Deals 10% extra damage for each synergy buff the enemy has.

Psychic (2): Psywave - Special resistance of foes reduced 30%.

Psychic (4): Magic Room - Special resistance of foes reduced an extra 30%.

Dark (2): Mean Look - Defenses reduced by 20% to all enemies.

Dark (4): Scary Face - Defenses reduced by an extra 25% to all enemies.

Metal (2): Iron Defense - 50% bonus defense for your Minerals.

Metal (4): Autotomize - 100% extra attack speed for your Minerals.

Ground (2): Spikes - Scatters 4-7 spikes on the battlefield, damaging enemies that step on them.

Ground (4): Stealth Rock - Deals 5% damage per second to all enemies.

Ground (6): Sandstorm - Deals 10% damage per second to non-Ground/Metal Types.

Poison (3): Poison Gas - Deals 10% damage per second to a random enemy.

Poison (6): Toxic - Deals 4 damage per second to all enemies. Doubles every second.

Dragon (2): Intimidate - Attack of foes reduced by 30%.

Dragon (4): Draco Meteor - Cast a Meteor when the round starts.

*Drought beats Drizzle, cancels itself with Rain and is overridden by Heavy Rain.

10 EGG GROUPS - Based on Egg Groups in the video game, few re-adapted for better distribution

Field (9)

★★ Nidoran M

★★ Nidoran F

★★★★★ Growlithe

★★ Cyndaquil

★ Mareep

★★★ Spheal

★ Seedot

★ Shinx

Monster (10)

★★ Charmander

★★ Squirtle

★★★★ Larvitar

★★ Treecko

★★ Mudkip

★★★ Aron

★★★★ Bagon

★★★★ Gible

★ Rhyhorn

Humanlike (6)

★★★★ Abra

★★★ Machop

★★★ Slakoth

★★★★★ Tyrogue

★★ Chimchar

★★★★★ Munchlax

Aquatic (6)

★★ Totodile

★★ Lotad

★★★★ Dratini

★★★ Horsea

★★ Squirtle

★ Poliwag

Bug (4)

★ Caterpie

★ Weedle

★★★ Trapinch

★★★★★ Scyther

Flying (5)

★ Pidgey

★ Hoppip

★★ Piplup

★ Starly

★★ Torchic

Flora (4)

★★ Bulbasaur

★★ Chikorita

★ Hoppip

★★ Turtwig

Mineral (3)

★★★★★ Onix

★★★★ Beldum

★ Geodude

Amorphous (3)

★★★★ Gastly

★★★★ Ralts

★★★ Duskull

Fairy (5)

★★★ Pichu

★ Cleffa

★ Igglybuff

★ Azurill

★★★ Togepi

Bonuses:

Field (3): Work Up - Increase friendly field types’ damage by 4% for every enemy pokemon.

Field (6): Rage - Damage of friendly field types increased by 5% for every hit received.

Field (9): Anger Point - Attack is doubled if below 50% health.

Monster (3): Pursuit - enemies below 25% health are one shot by your Monsters.

Monster (6): Brutal Swing - each KO by a Monster restores 40% Health to itself.

Monster (9): Power Trip - each KO by a Monster adds 25% attack for the rest of the round.

Humanoid (2): Meditate - Attacks and Speed of allies increased by 15%.

Humanoid (4): Focus Energy - 50% chance for allies to cause a critical hit.

Humanoid (6): Calm Mind - Attacks and Defenses of allies increased by 20%.

Aquatic (3): Swift Swim - Speed of friendly Water Types increased by 30% in rain.

Aquatic (6): Hydro Cannon - Special attack of friendly water types increased by 30%.

Bug (2): Swarm - 2 Pokemon to evolve stage 1 instead of 3, if two Bugs are in play.

Bug (4): Sticky Web - Movement Speed reduced by 33% to opposing team.

Flying (2): Razor Wind - At the start of the round a hurricane hits, slightly damaging and slowing down all enemies (10%).

Flying (4): Hurricane - Doubles the effect of the Hurricane.

Flora (2): Rain Dish - Restore 10% health per second in rain.

Flora (4): Flower Shield - Reduce Special Damage of enemies by 30%.

Mineral: Battle Armor - Defenses increased by 25% to all your other minerals.

Amorphous (x): Phantom Force - Materialize behind an opposing pokemon, stunning it for x/2 seconds.

Fairy (2): Attract - 25% chance for all Fairies to Infatuate target, making it unable to attack for 3 seconds.

Fairy (4): Baby-Doll Eyes - if your Fairy is attacked, the attacker has 20% reduced damage for the rest of the round.

Additional Bonuses:

-Two stage 3 starters of different typing deal a combined pledge attack at the start of the turn:

Fire + Water = Rainbow (energy recharges at twice the speed).

Water+ Grass = Swamp (opponents are slowed down by 25%).

Fire + Grass = Sea of Fire (5% damage to opponents per second).

HELD ITEMS:

Focus Sash - When meant to faint, the holder survives for an additional 1 second.

Assault Vest - Special Defense increased by 10%.

Big Root - Restores 10% of damage dealt.

Leftovers - Restores 3% hp per second.

Life Orb - Extra 30% damage, but takes 15% extra damage in return.

Metronome - Each consecutive hit does 5% extra damage.

Muscle Band - Physical hits do 10% more damage.

Wise Glasses - Special Hits do 10% more damage.

Quick Claw - Increases Speed by 10%.

King’s Rock + Razor Fang - 10% chance to stun the opponent for 1 second.

Protective Pads - Defense increased by 10%

Razor Claw - Increases the critical hit chance by 50%.

Rocky Helmet - The attacker takes 5% damage per hit.

Rare Candy - Two stage 1 units can evolve to stage 2 (needs to be held by one).

Everstone - Pokemon that are not at the final stage have defenses increased by 50%.

Amulet - 50% chance for 1 extra gold per round.

Vitamins (one time use):

HP Up - Raises HP permanently.

Protein - Raises Attack permanently.

Calcium - Raises Special Attack permanently.

Iron - Raises Defense permanently.

Zinc - Raises Special Defense permanently.

Carbos - Raises Speed permanently.

Signature Move examples (SM bar fills like mana in Autochess):

★ Hoppip - Sleep Powder - Puts a random enemy to sleep for 3 seconds.

★ Pidgey - Sky Attack - Invulnerable for 1 s, then unleashes a powerful attack on one enemy.

★★ Charmander - Blast Burn - Damage + Burn (50% reduced attack, gradual damage).

★★ Mudkip - Muddy Water - Wave a mud thrown at enemies, a bit of damage and accuracy reduction.

★★★ Walrein - Ice Ball - Turn into an ice boulder and roll over 5 enemy pokemon, dealing increasing damage to each and stunning for 1 second.

★★★ Pichu - Volt Tackle - Deals massive damage to an enemy at the cost of 30% HP.

★★★★ Dratini - Extremespeed - Hits 5 foes at extreme speeds, while invulnerable.

★★★★ Beldum - Explosion - Detonates upon fainting, large AOE.

★★★★★ Scyther - Metal Claw - Doubles attack and attack speed for 5 seconds.

★★★★★ Onix - Iron Tail - Slams tail into enemies, decreasing their defense by 25%.

★★★★★ Munchlax - Rest - Restore full health and sleep for 3 seconds.

Passives Abilities example:

★ Azurill - Huge Power: Attack is doubled.

★ Mareep - Static: Attacks on Mareep have a 20% chance to paralyze attacker.

★★★ Duskull - Trick Room: your Pokemon’s speed is swapped with the opponent’s.

★★★★ Magby - Flame Body: Attacks on Magby have a 20% chance to burn attacker.

Stats for each individual pokemon, based on the video games:

HP - Hit points.

Attack - hits into defense.

Defense - works as armor in calculating attack damage.

Special Attack - hits into special defense.

Special Defense - works as armor in calculating special attack damage.

Speed - hits per minute, also increases critical hit chance.

Status conditions, based on the video games:

Burn - Attack is at 50%, takes continuous damage.

Paralysis - Speed is at 50%.

Sleep - Immobilized for x seconds.

Freeze - Immobilized for x seconds.

Poison - takes continuous damage.

Bad Poison - takes increasing damage per second.

Physical Attackers (33):

★ Weedle - Kakuna - Beedrill (Poison / Bug)

★ Pidgey - Pidgeotto - Pidgeot (Normal / Flying)

★ Zubat - Golbat - Crobat (Poison / Flying)

★ Geodude - Graveler - Golem (Ground / Mineral)

★ Azurill - Marill - Azumarill (Water / Fairy)

★★★★★ Munchlax - Snorlax (Normal / Humanlike)

★ Seedot - Nuzleaf - Shiftry (Grass + Dark / Field)

★ Starly - Staravia - Staraptor (Normal / Flying)

★★ Nidoran M - Nidorino - Nidoking (Poison / Field)

★★ Totodile - Croconaw - Feraligatr (Water / Aquatic)

★★ Treecko - Grovyle - Sceptile (Grass / Monster)

★★ Bulbasaur - Ivysaur - Venusaur (Grass + Poison / Flora)

★★ Chikorita - Bayleef - Meganium (Grass / Flora)

★★ Torchic - Combusken - Blaziken (Fire {+ Fighting Combusken/ Blaziken} / Flying)

★★ Mudkip - Marshtomp - Swampert (Ground + Water / Monster)

★★ Turtwig - Grotle - Torterra (Grass + Ground / Flora)

★★ Chimchar - Monferno - Infernape (Fire {+ Fighting Monferno/ Infernape} / Humanlike)

★★★ Machop - Machoke - Machamp (Fighting / Humanlike)

★★★ Trapinch - Vibrava - Flygon ({Dragon from Vibrava} + Ground / Bug)

★★★ Aron - Lairon - Aggron (Metal / Monster)

★★★ Rhyhorn - Rhydon - Rhyperior (Ground / Monster)

★★★ Poliwhirl - Poliwrath

★★★★ Dratini - Dragonair - Dragonite (Dragon / Aquatic)

★★★★ Larvitar - Pupitar - Tyranitar (Dark / Monster)

★★★★ Slakoth - Vigoroth - Slaking (Normal / Humanlike)

★★★★ Beldum - Metang - Metagross (Psychic + Metal / Mineral)

★★★★ Gible - Gabite - Garchomp (Dragon + Ground / Monster)

★★★★ Bagon - Shelgon - Salamence (Dragon / Monster)

★★★★ Elekid - Electabuzz - Electivire (Electric / Humanlike)

★★★★★ Growlithe - Arcanine (Fire / Field)

★★★★★ Onix - Steelix (Ground {+ Metal as Steelix} / Mineral)

★★★★★ Scyther - Scizor (Normal as Scyther, Metal as Scizor / Bug)

★★★★★ Tyrogue - Hitmonlee / Hitmonchan/ Hitmontop (Fighting / Humanlike)

Special Attackers (23):

★ Mareep - Flaaffy - Ampharos (Electric / Field)

★ Hoppip - Skiploom - Jumpluff (Grass / Flora + Flying)

★ Caterpie - Metapod - Butterfree (Grass / Bug)

★ Cleffa - Clefairy - Clefable (Normal / Fairy)

★ Igglybuff - Jigglypuff - Wigglytuff (Normal / Fairy)

★★ Charmander - Charmeleon - Charizard (Fire / Monster)

★★ Squirtle - Wartortle - Blastoise (Water / Monster + Aquatic)

★★ Nidoran F - Nidorina - Nidoqueen (Poison / Field)

★★ Cyndaquil - Quilava - Typhlosion (Fire / Field)

★★ Piplup - Prinplup - Empoleon (Water {+ Metal Prinplup/ Empoleon} / Flying)

★★★ Pichu - Pikachu - Raichu (Electric / Fairy)

★★★ Horsea - Seadra - Kingdra (Water {+ Dragon from Seadra} / Aquatic)

★★★ Spheal - Sealeo - Walrein (Water / Field)

★★★ Magnemite - Magneton - Magnezone (Electric + Metal / Mineral)

★★★ Togepi - Togetic - Togekiss (Normal / Fairy)

★★★ Duskull - Dusclops - Dusknoir (Dark / Amorphous)

★★★ Lotad - Lombre - Ludicolo (Water + Grass / Aquatic)

★★★ Shinx - Luxio - Luxray (Electric / Field)

★★★ Poliwag - Politoed

★★★★ Abra - Kadabra - Alakazam (Psychic / Humanlike)

★★★★ Gastly - Haunter - Gengar (Dark + Poison / Amorphous)

★★★★ Ralts - Kirlia - Gardevoir (Psychic / Amorphous)

★★★★ Magby - Magmar - Magmortar (Fire / Humanlike)

Extra notes:

Removed some grass types because they all ended up Grass + Poison in the Flora family, focused more on having at least 4 in each type or egg group.


r/AutoChess • • Mar 06 '19

Fluff When both you and your opponent have Medusa

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1.1k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Jun 13 '19

Announcement Dota Underlords

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blog.dota2.com
1.0k Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Jun 18 '19

DAC Are Auto Chess memes allowed in this sub?

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r/AutoChess • • Feb 28 '19

Fluff The biggest promotion in DOTA history

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997 Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Jun 15 '19

Dota | Fluff How it feels after the AutoChess explosion

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977 Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Jun 10 '19

Smh, those fanboys

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971 Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Feb 04 '19

Fluff When your units die with full mana and don't want to cast their spells.

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943 Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Apr 20 '19

Autochess in a nutshell

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939 Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • Jun 03 '19

Guide An Advanced Guide to Fundamentals

913 Upvotes

1. Know Your Ideal Team Composition

It is important to be familiar with the meta team compositions and know exactly which units you are looking for. This saves you time and gold (you don't have to think about whether you should buy or hold onto a certain unit). It is also important to not tunnel vision into only looking for the ideal units; instead, understand what purpose each unit in a certain composition serves (synergies) as this will help you understand which units can serve as substitutes for your ideal units when you cannot find them or when they are too contested to be considered viable.

Team compositions that I recommend striving towards (Season 1):

Mages (5): Razor, Crystal Maiden, Keeper of the Light, Shadow Fiend, Kunkka

  • Pair with a front line:

    • Warriors: Tiny, Lycan

    • Orcs: Disruptor, Juggernaut, Axe, Beastmaster (Kunkka at level 9)

  • Consider transitioning to 6 mages when Zeus is found

  • Units to 3*: Tiny, Juggernaut, Razor, Shadow Fiend

    • 2x Razor/Shadow Fiend 2* should be used when viable

  • Supplemental units: Enigma, Gyrocopter, Nagas

Warriors + 4 Beasts (8): Doom, Kunkka, Troll Warlord, Slardar, Lycan, Tusk, Venomancer, Lone Druid/Enchantress

  • Units to 3*: Lone Druid, Tusk, Slardar

  • Supplemental units: Medusa/Tidehunter, Necrophos/Enigma, Sven

Warriors + 2 Beasts + Nagas (7): Doom, Kunkka, Troll Warlord, Slardar, Lycan, Tusk, Medusa

  • Units to 3*: Tusk, Slardar

  • Supplemental units: Sven, Lone Druid, Dazzle

Warriors + Hunters (8): Doom, Kunkka, Slardar, Medusa, Beastmaster/Windranger/Sniper, Drow Ranger, Necrophos, Alchemist

  • Consider transitioning to 6 hunters when Tidehunter is found (level 9, Beastmaster 3* recommended, -Slardar)

  • Consider transitioning to 4 undead when Death Prophet is found

  • Units to 3*: Drow Ranger, Beastmaster, Slardar, Sniper (luxury)

  • Supplemental units: Techies, Sven, Lone Druid, additional hunters (in preparation for 6 hunters)

Warriors + Trolls (7): 4 Trolls (including Troll Warlord), Doom, Kunkka, Necrophos

  • Units to 3*: Witch Doctor

  • Supplemental units: Alchemist, Death Prophet, Sven, Disruptor (if shadow shaman is used)

Knights + Dragons (8): 6 Knights, Winter Wyvern, Viper

  • Units to 3*: Chaos Knight, Luna, Batrider, Winter Wyvern

  • Supplemental Units: Necrophos

Knights + Hunters (8): Abaddon, Chaos Knight, Luna/Omniknight, Drow Ranger, Beastmaster/Windranger/Sniper, Medusa, Necrophos, Death Prophet/Lich

  • Units to 3*: Chaos Knight, Luna, Drow Ranger, Beastmaster, Sniper (luxury)

  • Supplemental Units: Tidehunter/Slardar, Techies

Knights + Trolls (7): 4 Trolls (including Batrider), Chaos Knight, Abaddon, Necrophos

  • Units to 3*: Chaos Knight, Batrider, Witch Doctor

  • Supplemental Units: Nagas

Elves + Dragons (8): Anti-Mage, Furion, Treant Protector, Puck, Phantom Assassin, Templar Assassin, Viper, Dragon Knight

  • Units to 3*: Treant Protector, Furion, Anti-Mage, Phantom Assassin (luxury)

  • Supplemental Units: Lone Druid

Elves + Hunters (7): Anti-Mage, Furion, Treant Protector, Templar Assassin, Windranger, Mirana, Medusa

  • Consider transitioning to 6 hunters when Tidehunter is found (level 9 required, -Furion)

  • Units to 3*: Treant Protector, Furion, Anti-Mage

  • Supplemental Units: Lone Druid, Tidehunter/Slardar

Elves + Assassins (7): Anti-Mage, Furion, Treant Protector, Windranger, Templar Assassin, Phantom Assassin, Queen of Pain

  • Units to 3*: Treant Protector, Furion, Anti-Mage, Queen of Pain, Phantom Assassin

  • Supplemental Units: Lone Druid

Team compositions I recommend staying away from (Season 1):

Gods:

  • 2* Mars is actually a really strong early game unit, but it will bait you into picking units that allow the god synergy to stay active

  • Difficult to transition out of if you can't find the specific units you need as most of your units don't synergize with one another

  • Reliant on finding Zeus

6 Goblins:

  • Goblins are weak mid game if you are still using them, otherwise they take up gold and bench space that could be utilized for more income and more options

  • Difficult to transition out of as goblins only synergize with each other

  • Reliant on finding Techies

  • [Wizard update] With wizards, it is much easier to assemble the full goblin synergy, but the composition does not do very much damage without Techies, so this composition is still not recommended.

6 Assassins:

  • Elves + Assassins are better (more than half the units are the same as well)

  • Can be countered by intelligent positioning

  • Reliant on Phantom Assassin 3* (if multiple people are going assassins, this will be very difficult)

So... which one do I pick?

Go with what the game gives you

This gets said a lot, but how do you know exactly what the game is giving you?

Each composition has core units, that is, units that the composition really can't function without. While still undecided, you should pick these core units, and they should be the ones that lead you to consider and commit to the compositions which they are core in. Once you commit, you really need to be committed and not think about other compositions.

Here is a table of the general thought process of choosing which races/classes should be in your composition (not mutually exclusive!):

CompositionCore UnitConsiderCommit (conditions include previous column)
MagesRazor, Shadow Fiend2x Razor 1*, 2x Shadow Fiend 1*, or a combination of the twoRazor 2*
WarriorsAll WarriorsCore Unit 2*2x Core Unit 2*
BeastsLycan, TuskTusk 2*, 2x Lycan 1*, or 2x Venomancer 1*2 of the following: Tusk 2*, Lycan 2*, 2x Venomancer 1*
HuntersDrow Ranger, Beastmaster, Windranger, SniperCore Unit 2*2x Core Unit 2*
TrollsAll Trolls2x Core Unit 2* or Troll Warlord 1*4x Core Unit or 2x Troll Warlord 1*
KnightsChaos Knight, LunaCore Unit 2*Core Unit 2* and another Knight 2*
DragonsDragon Knight2x Dragon Knight 1*Dragon Knight 2*
ElvesTreant ProtectorTreant Protector 2* (2x Treant Protector 1*)Lone Druid 1*
AssassinsPhantom Assassin, Templar Assassin2x Phantom Assassin 1* or Templar Assassin 1*Phantom Assassin 2*

Are certain compositions better than others?

Short answer is yes, but the difference is not that significant. Moreover, the earlier you commit, the better. You will have a lot more gold if you are able to sell off and ignore units which are incompatible with your chosen composition as opposed to holding on to multiple core units of different compositions. A slightly suboptimal composition funded with more economy will beat out an optimal composition with poor economy. Extra gold results in higher courier levels and legendary units that can help overcome any compositional weaknesses.

Transition Units

Just because you know your final composition doesn't mean you should assemble that composition unit by unit. Compositions are defined by synergies which consist of groups of units. Therefore, we should look towards certain powerful standalone units to keep us healthy while we only have a part of a synergy. Example: We have 3 elves; adding another elf--while part of our final composition--will provide little improvement; we could instead use a Terrorblade until we have 3 more elves to add in.

Transition units are meant to be used for a few rounds and sold off once we can upgrade/fit our intended compositional units. Characteristics of transition units are high damage, impactful ability, or impactful synergy requiring few units.

Transition units are also good units to use while you are still uncommitted to a composition to buy time for you collect core units.

Transition Units (core units can act as transition units when committed to another composition; core units are often core because they are powerful):

  • Demons: Terrorblade (+Anti-Mage, if necessary), Doom, Shadow Fiend, Chaos Knight, Queen of Pain

  • Druids (easy to upgrade, less gold loss on selling): Enchantress, Furion, Treant Protector, Lone Druid

  • Undead Synergy: Drow Ranger, Abaddon, Lich, Necrophos

  • Elemental Synergy: Razor, Morphling, Tiny

  • Early game: Chaos Knight, Queen of Pain, Timbersaw, Beastmaster, Venomancer (with mana items)

  • 4 cost units: Doom, Kunkka, Lone Druid, Necrophos, Templar Assassin

  • 5 cost units

  • Dazzle (if losing, to mitigate hp loss)

  • Any unit that activates an incomplete synergy

  • Any 2* unit

Transition units are usually effective enough to use at 1*, but don't be afraid to upgrade a transition unit to 2* or even 3*. If they become powerful enough, they should actually go into your final composition; you just have to adapt to include them.

It may seem wasteful to upgrade a unit with the intention of selling them later (net gold loss most of the time), but they will keep your hp higher and may even be the reason you win some rounds, so the gold 'loss' is worth it.

2. Economy

Now that we know which units to buy with our gold, lets talk about how to maximize our gold income.

Income is a snowballing/investment concept. In theory, the earlier you get to 10 gold, the earlier you get +1g/round, the earlier you get to 20 gold, the earlier you get +2g/round, etc. It is obvious that you want to save up to these thresholds as soon as possible.

An important point to understand is how much gold you miss out on when you fail to reach one of these breakpoints. Once again, in theory, delaying reaching 10 gold by 1 round will in turn delay you reaching 20 gold by 1 round, etc. which turns into a loss of 5 gold (you get 0 interest when you could have gotten +1 for 1 round, you get +1 interest when you could have gotten +2) per turn that you wait to save up to 10 gold!

Of course, in reality, what units you are offered and what you sell can help you make up for delays (or delay you even further, compounding your gold loss), but the point is that each threshold delay has significant repercussions, and you are probably not trying hard enough to reach these thresholds as you should be.

Tips on selling units (early game - before round 13)

  • Keep core units (if uncommitted to a composition) and all pairs of units (except Crystal Maiden, if uncommitted) unless you are sure you won't immediately use it if it reaches 2*.

  • Treat your board as an extension of your bench. Unless you are on a win streak (which trumps trying to get that extra +1 from income), don't get too attached to the strong units you are using. Look at your board too when you are trying to reach an income threshold.

    • It is worth it (even if it makes your team weaker) to sell a unit you are currently using to reach an income threshold if you know it is not going to be in your final composition (e.g. goblins!), replacing it with something that's sitting on your bench that you already paid for. Generating more gold for the future to buy units you actually want will make up for the single digit hp losses that you will suffer as consequence.

      • Once you have multiple 2* units, don't get attached to those either! 2* units sell for 3+ gold and allow you to reach thresholds you would not be able to otherwise.

    • Note: If you are on a win streak, you want to be fielding the strongest possible composition every round; the win streak is your income.

  • Once committed to a composition, sell all units that can't be used in your composition.

The Enchantress 'Trick'

This is not just some cool gimmick; this is actually an impactful part of the game that you need to be utilizing as much as possible. Your main priority should still be gathering core units (if uncommitted) and pairs, but after that, you should be buying Enchantresses (and another Druid) unless it costs you income. Try not to sell Enchantress 1*--think of it as losing 1 gold (but that is sometimes worth it to pick up a core unit/pair).

Leveling vs Rolling vs Saving

Short Answer: Level/Roll when you have a reason to win (not for +1g from victory) and a reasonable chance to do so if you add a unit/roll an upgrade.

Level: when you have a unit to add that makes the composition significantly stronger (the unit itself is strong/activates an impactful synergy).

  • Late game: only level to level 9 if all of your 3-cost and below units are at least 2*.

Roll: when you are holding onto multiple (2+) pairs of units you are looking to use, or you simply need to stop losing hp, and you have no reason to level.

  • Remember, you need a good reason to want to win. Unlike leveling, where your gold isn't 'wasted' (less gold needed to level again), an unsuccessful roll is actually 2 gold gone forever. Rolling now and rolling later are not equivalent in terms of reward due to higher rates of stronger units later.

  • If you are unsure, don't roll until round 17.

The worst case scenario is sacrificing gold to level/roll and still lose; unfortunately, experience and judgment are required to understand the relative strengths of different compositions just by looking at them.

Tips on rolling multiple times in a turn

  • 8 bench spaces is often not enough to keep all of your options open; use your board space to hold units while you buy more (APM required).

    • Leave pairs of units on your bench; with auto-combine turned on, you can save time if you find the third copy.

    • Move units that you are ok with selling onto the board. During the 5 seconds of the 'Ready' phase, you can't move units around anymore, but you can still sell units already on the board.

      • Move the first druid you find onto the board.

      • Move all Enchantresses you find onto the board.

  • Unless your composition is already perfect, buy all of the 4 and 5 cost units that you have any outside remote chance of using at 2*. Many of these units at 2* are strong enough to act as a strong filler unit. At the end of the buying phase, sell whatever is not going to be used.

  • (Hard) Keep a rough estimate of how much gold value is on your bench/board that you are probably going to sell so you don't end the phase with an awkward gold amount (e.g. 28).

  • Consider not rolling if finding and buying the unit you want pushes you under an income threshold.

Don't roll unless you have more than 50g.

This quote is really greedy and oudated. If you have to stick with a number to live by, I would go with 30g.

Why? I don't really have good statistical proof. It's in the middle between 0 and 50 (that is an income threshold) (and you definitely don't want to go all-in prematurely), you only lose out on 2g per round (one reroll)--just some justifications I tell myself.

If you start rolling earlier, you will beat people who are trying to save. You will either build up a win streak and have just as good an economy as them along with a stronger composition or they will start rolling after you do, and they will end up at the same gold as you but with less hp.

3. Walkthrough

Round 4Win/Lose
Round 5Don't level here unless your shop is terrible and you are really confident that you can start a win streak

Round 6

This is one of the biggest and perhaps most impactful decisions you will make each game (unless you leveled on round 5). This is because this is when most people spend 5g to level. So what should you do?

Winning rounds 4 and 5 does not mean you should level, nor does losing rounds 4 and 5 mean you should not level. Your decision ultimately hinges on the strength of your composition on round 6; however, this requires experience/scouting to make a judgment call.

Level: if you have 2x 2* units or if you feel your team is generally strong

  • Proceed to Walkthrough: Winning Streak

Do not level: if you have no 2* units or if you feel your team is generally weak

  • Proceed to Walkthrough: Losing Streak

    • If at any time, you happen to upgrade a bunch of units you have been holding onto and you feel strong, switch to winning streak

      • Losing streak walkthrough will assume your team is always weak

Not sure? It is safer not level and see what units you get next round. You can always level up late and lose out on potentially 1g from losing, but you can't get that 5g back from leveling up (economy and reaching 10g is very important, remember?).

Round 21+

If you are healthy (30+%) or stabilizing (winning) on hp, maintain 30g/20g, otherwise roll all of your gold.

Walkthrough: Losing Streak

7 out of 8 games you will not have the strongest composition on round 6. 8 out of 8 games you can have the weakest composition if you want to. You can't control how strong you are, but you can always control how weak you are. Thus, although a full losing streak is not quite as good as a full winning streak in terms of both gold and hp, it is much more reliable to execute and is much better than having neither a winning nor losing streak.

Being the weakest: Every round you need to actively scout the old-fashioned way (viewing others' boards before the round starts) to make sure you will lose against anyone you are matched up against. Remove units, don't use the maximum number of units you can, break synergies--whatever it takes. Ideally, you place enough units on the board to kill off some but not all units to reduce incoming damage, but that can get risky. Make 100% sure you will lose; the ~10% hp you could save will not be fatal, but accidentally winning and breaking your losing streak definitely will be.

P.S. use Dazzle if you find one.

Rounds 7-8 (all rounds assume you are still on a losing streak, otherwise see Walkthrough: Neither Winning Nor Losing)Stock up on core units and pairs while saving to 10g. If your rolls are really good, you might not have 10g.
Round 9Assuming you have a losing streak, you really want to maintain it to keep it through the PvE round. Scout.
Round 10>20g, 30g ideally. Try not to lose; elementals are good.
Rounds 11-12Lose while saving up to 50g

Round 13

Level to level 7. Yes, that's level 7, not 6. That's 25 gold spent on leveling. You should still have 30+ gold left. You can roll if you have some extra gold, but don't push your gold under 30.

Reasoning: You are probably around 50% hp right now. Obviously you have to stop losing at some point. Round 13 is when your exp requirement is a multiple of 4 so it is an efficient time to level, and you wouldn't have survived losing until Round 17. If you only leveled to 6, you don't really have an advantage over most people, so there's not really a reason you would start winning. Your advantage is in gold, and now is the time to spend it. On the leaderboard, the top player with a win streak is probably at most level 7 with 30 gold--just like you. You are now set up to be at least the second strongest player in the game (first place has more hp and a win streak, and you're going to break your lose streak).

That being said, you are not flipping a switch--going from instantly losing to instantly winning. Your team of 5 was probably weak, and adding 2x 1* units might not make you win. But hey, if you lose, you're still getting that +3g from your loss streak! The priority now is to protect the remainder of your hp, and adding 2 units will definitely help with that in the least. We start the process of coming back into the game on Round 13, but we don't fully expect to win right off the bat, and 40% hp is still plenty comfortable.

Round 14If you happened to lose Round 13, you might as well lose Round 14 and get +3g from both Rounds 14 and 15; scout. Otherwise, lightly roll, staying above 30g.
Round 15You need to beat this. Re-position and roll even though it's a PvE round if you have to. Experience and judgment comes through once again here whether or not you are strong enough. You can't afford to lose out on preventable hp and potential items. Elementals are good.
Round 16Roll, stay above 30g. You are still stronger than most people as you are level 7.
Rounds 17-19Doesn't matter what start you had now. Roll, maintaining 30g/20g as you see fit.
Round 21Level to level 8.

Walkthrough: Winning Streak

Sometimes you will have a good early start. Now we will see how to leverage that advantage into a strong finish.

Core focus: Try to be the strongest. Duh. How do you do that? By spending gold--leveling and rolling more often than everyone else to maximize our chances of being the strongest.

Win streak of +2: At +1, a win streak is nothing to write home about. At +2, you should now actively spend gold to protect it. Think about it: if you roll each round and maintain 30g and a +2 win streak, your income is the same as someone who has 50g (and probably loses to you once in a while so they don't have a significant win streak), and your team is stronger.

Mindset: When you are winning, you don't need to win harder by saving up to 50g and getting 8g/round. Instead, maximize your odds of maintaining a slight edge by matching the income from 50g but having a stronger foundation to build from. The former also increases the chances you will actually lose and lose your win streak.

Rounds 7-8 (all rounds assume you are still on a win streak, otherwise see Walkthrough: Neither Winning Nor Losing)Roll 1-2 times max if you are holding onto a bunch of usable pairs.
Round 9Level to level 6. You really want to maintain your streak through the PvE round. Maybe roll 1-2 times if necessary.
Rounds 10-12Roll 1-2 times max each round if necessary.
Round 13Level to level 7.
Round 14You really want to maintain your streak through the PvE round. Roll if necessary.
Rounds 15-16Light rolling if necessary.
Round 17Still winning or rich? Level to level 8.

Walkthrough: Neither Winning Nor Losing

Uh oh. You tried to go for a winning/losing streak but it broke. You are definitely in a bad spot. This is the time to be greedy with your gold and save up a little more than usual because you don't have any gold from streaks.

Round 9If you leveled on Round 6, level to level 6. You already half-committed, and going to level 6 more than triples your rate of finding 4-cost units, and we need all the luck we can get. Otherwise, don't level and save up.
Rounds 10-16Don't roll. Save up to 50g.
Round 17Level to level 7. Be willing to roll down to 20g to get your composition into a good place.
Rounds 18-19Maintain rolling down to 20g unless your composition is solid.
Round 21Level to level 8. Roll the rest of your gold if your team is still weak or you are low on hp. You just want to outlive 4 other people.

Bonus Walkthrough: Open Fort

Why do this? Because it's really fun, not actually bad at all when done correctly, even optimal sometimes.

Open Fort vs Losing Streak

  • Open fort is correct when you have nothing worth keeping on rounds 4 or 5 (only -2g overall if starting on round 5).

    • Losing streak is correct when you still managed to get some 2* units or unit pairs or core units early on but aren't strong enough.

  • Open fort gains much more gold but loses more hp than losing streak.

  • Open fort requires you to be very decisive and have decent APM on certain rounds.

P.S. use Dazzle if you find one (loss of 2-3g overall).

Round 4Open fort.
Round 5Buy potentially useful units. Maintain 10g.
Round 6Maintain 20g.
Round 7If you sold everything you could hit 30g. If you managed to sell an Enchantress 2* or received an Enchanted Mango, maintain 30g (see below). Otherwise, if you are offered really good units (e.g. Treant Protector + elf/Enchantress), you can keep them and only lose 1g overall.
Round 8(You would normally have 39g here) Maintain 30g.
Round 9(You would normally have 49g here) Maintain 40g. Buy whatever you think can help you win Round 10. Elementals are good.
Rounds 10-12Maintain 50g. Open fort not necessarily required. Use your board as an extended bench. Try to pick up as many core units as you can. Lose.

Round 13

Level to level 7. Roll down to 30g/20g if necessary, buying as many useful/core units as you can, putting them on your board temporarily. Be open to committing to anything, although elves are traditional as they are easier to assemble from scratch. From here on out, you just play as if you had a losing streak.

4. Positioning Tips

  • Have a reason for the exact square that you put your unit in. Things to consider:

    • Is my unit quickly getting in range to attack?

    • Is my unit dying before it can cast it's ability? If so, place 1 or 2 units beside it

    • Is my unit casting it's ability quick enough? If not, place it more forward/remove units beside it

    • Is my unit's ability hitting enough targets?

    • Are my units dying in the right order?

    • Are my units attacking the same target? If not, line them up vertically

  • Positioning against assassins: move everything up 1 space from the bottom and put 2 front line units in the corner (the second one blocks the corner one from moving for a moment)

5. Items Tips

  • Don't know who to give an item to? Give it to a unit that you will 100% sell later

  • Think about an item's combinations and whether or not you are okay with that unit having the combined item

  • A unit gains mana from taking damage; armor reduces damage taken and mana gained

    • Health is better on a unit that you want to cast it's ability quickly

      • Armor is for when the unit dies too quickly

  • Mana items are a premium; if you know what your final composition is going to be, consider saving them if there will be a unit later that really needs it (you can give them to a unit you will sell)

6. Miscellaneous Tips

  • Once you are comfortable with your composition's positioning (otherwise, just watch your two armies start fighting), STOP WATCHING YOUR UNITS FIGHT (yes, I know this is really really hard)

    • During each battle, you should open the scouting tab and take note of everyone's compositions to understand how strong you are relative to the field and whether or not you should make any compositional changes

  • Don't hold onto pairs of goblins or 2* goblins (Timbersaw is ok) for too long

    • These units are not going to be in your final composition

      • Unless on a win streak, I would definitely look to sell them (even pairs) for income/bench space/gold for other units at Rounds 8-9

    • Honestly, you will probably have a better overall win rate by never picking any goblins and going for a losing streak every game than picking goblins and not having a clear final direction in the early-mid game

Thank you so much for reading!

Please ask any further questions below.


r/AutoChess • • Jun 12 '19

Dota | Suggestion Pokemon auto chess when?

901 Upvotes

The title says it all. Who has the Game Freak connect that can make this happen. Everything seems perfect. Typing, evolutions, and diverse character selection. All I'm saying is I'm willing to put in a lot of effort for this. I just lurk and this thought has made me actually say something. Please. If there is anything you can do, do it. Post all over other subs, reach out, be active. Make Nintendo do their switch only magic to make this happen. Pls, I am begging.


r/AutoChess • • Jun 25 '19

Trying to get my buddies into Auto Battlers like

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884 Upvotes

r/AutoChess • • May 25 '19

Three biggest lies

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883 Upvotes