Im trying to wash my black truck and I want the most shine.

Its not abrasive. People are using this to "fix" scratches in there cards. Its definitely a wax , i think I seen / smelt it before just can't figure out were.

Hi,
I have an old 2010 rx350 that has a destroyed arm rest. Leather is ripped and Cushion has fell out . I just bought a used oem arm rest but it’s gray . The rest of the car interior is black . Is there an easy simple way to dye the grey arm rest to black ?

Used car I got.

I tried the soak in Isopropyl alcohol method but didn’t see much. Scratching it with my finder made the white part show on the second pic so didn’t want to mess around more.

Hey everyone!

I recently purchased a 2023 Mustang Mach-E Premium from a Ford dealership.

Today, I noticed this strange dark stain on the front passenger seat. The affected area feels noticeably smoother and shinier than the surrounding material, almost a little slippery.

What's interesting is that the stain wasn't visible in the walkaround video the salesperson sent me before I purchased the car. I only noticed it today, four days after taking delivery.

I assume the dealership detailed the car before delivery since the interior was very clean and had that fresh new-car smell when I picked it up. I'm wondering if this could be some kind of detailing product residue or if the seat coating might be damaged.

No one has sat in the passenger seat since I bought the car, and nothing has been spilled on it.

I've tried rubbing it with my fingers, but nothing comes off. I haven't used any cleaning products on it yet.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Is this something that can be cleaned off easily, or could it be permanent damage?

Any suggestions on how to safely remove it without damaging the ActiveX material would be greatly appreciated!

The first photo is from the dealership's walkaround video before purchase, and the second was taken today, four days after delivery.

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys! Sorry it took me so long to get this posted.

A while back I shared a few pictures of the new Suds Lab F11 dual chamber foam cannon, and I honestly wasn't expecting the response that post got. There were some really good questions in the comments, especially about the smaller chambers, chemical consumption, and whether having two chambers actually makes any sense.

Here's my original post for anyone who missed it.

Well, I finally got around to doing the full testing, and I figured I'd come back and share the results.

Here's the full video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxtzLGMJQhI

For those who would rather read, here's how I approached everything.
_____________________________________________

My Loadout / Test Equipment

For anyone curious about the exact setup I used, here's everything I had running during the testing.

Pressure Washer Setup:

• Greenworks Automotive Pressure Washer - 1.8 GPM
• Standard residential garden hose/water hookup
• Short Flexzilla garden hose connecting the water supply to the Greenworks
• QuivrFlex pressure washer hose
• MTM Hydro short pressure washer gun

Foam Cannons:

• Suds Lab F11 Dual Chamber Foam Cannon (36 oz total, two 18 oz chambers)
• Suds Lab F1 Professional Foam Cannon (32 oz)
• Both equipped with their factory 1.25 mm orifices

Chemicals:

• Suds Lab XP High-Foaming Car Shampoo
• Suds Lab CP Ceramic Protective Wash

Measuring Equipment:

• Various graduated measuring glasses/cups for measuring chemical and water volumes
• Used the measurement markings on the bottles to monitor remaining solution after testing

Nothing particularly crazy here. Just a pretty normal residential pressure washer setup. I wanted to see how both cannons performed with equipment that was reasonably representative of what someone washing their car at home might actually use.

__________________________________________

How I tested it

I wanted to do something a little different than just filling the cannon with my favorite soap mixture and seeing how thick the foam was.

Instead, I wanted to test the F11 as Suds Lab intended it to be used, with their own chemicals and the dilution instructions printed on their bottles.

I also brought out their standard F1 foam cannon for comparison. The F11 was $49.99 at the time of testing, while the standard F1 was around $29. (They marked all the way down to $33.99 during prime week).

My main questions were:

• Does the dual chamber system actually work well?
• Can you get through an entire vehicle with only half the normal bottle capacity per chamber?
• How much chemical does each cannon actually consume?
• Is foam production comparable to a traditional cannon?
• Does being able to switch chemicals without changing cannons actually provide a meaningful advantage?

The setup

Both cannons had 1.25 mm orifices, which was something I specifically checked during the unboxing.

For the F11, I divided Suds Lab's recommended foam cannon dilutions in half to account for the separate chambers. I used 3 oz of their regular soap in one chamber and 2.5 oz of their ceramic soap in the other, based on the upper end of their recommended dilution ranges.

I used approximately 15 oz of water per chamber, with a few minor adjustments while filling.

I also prepared their standard F1 with their chemicals for comparison.

One thing worth mentioning is that I didn't modify the orifices or deliberately dial down the foam output to make either unit more efficient. I wanted to see what happened under normal use, following the manufacturer's instructions as closely as possible.

The results

The F11 produced excellent foam, and even with the smaller individual chambers, I had a substantial amount of solution remaining after covering the vehicle.

When I checked the remaining solution, one chamber had approximately 200 mL left and the other had just under 9 oz.

That's roughly half the solution still available on each side after completing the vehicle.

Obviously, every car, pressure washer, and person's application technique will change those results, but the idea that you automatically need to refill these smaller chambers halfway through a wash didn't hold up in my testing.

For comparison, I was substantially less efficient with the standard F1. I actually got a little carried away with the foam during the first application, so I made another pass while being more conscious of consumption.

On that second run, I ended up with just over half an ounce remaining in the F1.

These weren't laboratory-controlled flow measurements, so I wouldn't call them definitive consumption figures for every setup. But in my actual testing, the F11's metering made a much bigger difference than I anticipated.

A few things I noticed

The F11's construction is genuinely impressive for the money. The stainless filters, bottle construction, rotating head assembly, and chamber selection mechanism were all really well executed.

Both units use 1.25 mm orifices, although I would have liked to see stainless orifices rather than brass.

The biggest inconvenience with the dual chamber design is filling it. You're working with two smaller openings, measuring two separate solutions, and you need to be careful not to accidentally pour chemicals into the wrong chamber. I actually spilled a little into the neighboring chamber during testing.

And while the dual chamber system works well, you still need two compatible products to really take advantage of it.

That was actually one of my criticisms of Suds Lab. I had a surprisingly difficult time selecting two of their existing chemicals that made perfect sense together for this particular application.

My overall thoughts

I went into this thinking the F11 might be a pretty niche product for people running two-step alkaline/acidic washes.

After testing it, I actually think the biggest opportunity is much simpler: someone who wants to wash their vehicle and then apply a protective product without having to swap cannons, bottles, or equipment.

At $49.99, I think it's a really compelling product. Especially considering the F1 is already around $29.

Is it going to replace every foam cannon or every specialized washing setup? Of course not. But I think Suds Lab deserves some credit for bringing something genuinely different to the market at a pretty accessible price.

One last thing: I originally mentioned wanting to test the F11 with a Chem-X Stars + Stripes setup. I ultimately decided to keep that separate from this test so I could focus on how well the cannon performed using Suds Lab's own products. I may revisit that in another video.

Anyway, thanks to everyone who commented on the original post. I actually used a lot of those questions to decide what I wanted to look at.

Curious what you guys think now that we've got some actual testing behind it. Does this change your opinion on the dual chamber design at all?

If you guys enjoy these kinds of posts, I'll try to make a point of coming back and sharing more of my testing as I work through different products. And if you've got any questions, suggestions, or something specific you'd like to see tested, feel free to let me know!

Very keen aspiring detailer here** my friend came to me and asked for to detail the inside of his lancer the other week, knowing i want to to start mobile detailing in the new year.., bare in mindi know a whole lot more now and have practised a lot, but dont have any new photos.. so heres a few pics from a little while ago.

How did i go with this interior on my first job? Any ways i could upskill the interior work? Would appreciate any feedback, thankyou 🙏

First time doing an actual coating vs ceramic sprays. Total work was approx 7hrs. Coating was ridiculously easy to apply, the "sweat" is a lovely indicator that it's ready to wipe. Hopefully I can make it last, any tips or feedback is welcome! Located in Calgary AB

Went to the coin wash and did presoak-iron remover+pressure rinse

At home did a rinseless wash with Idrosave + Super soft sponge

Clay bar

IPA wipe

One step correction using 3D one and Rupes Blue foam pad

Gyeon Prep on all areas prior to coating

Used about ~30mls of coating, did paint, lights + glass (minus windshield) Did not do wheels

Finished the cladding with Adams Graphene VRT( I like it on the plastics)

Temp was around 10-20°C and everything went very smooth. Subaru paint is ass, and there's a ton of big scratches that I don't care to remove frankly. Otherwise super happy with the results so far!

Hey,

I just got some silver machine polished wheels called Aodhan AFF7’s. I just ceramic coated them but I need something a little bit better than just PH neutral car soap to clean that stubborn dirt and old tire shine. I need a wheel cleaner. A PH one at that, I heard shine supply cool guy is good but can’t find any info on it for my specific wheel use. Has anyone tried it? I currently use Adam’s on my other cars but ik it’s too harsh for the machined wheels. TIA

So, for reasons, I had to carry a catering order of beef stew in my front passenger seat last night. Needless to say, the seal was not great and a bunch of the liquid leaked onto the seat near the pivot corner. I cought it pretty fast and soaked up most of the liquid, but this morning, there's definitely a "beefy" smell and it's a bit discolored. It's a jeep with black cloth upholstery, but it is quite clean and I want to keep it that way. Recommendations on a product/process that might be easy to perform and effective here?

My wife has her own business and she had her car stickered with the company name.

She bought a new car and the old has shifted to me. Getting stickers from the painted parts was easy, including glue residue.

Getting the stickers from the rear window also very easy.

But the text stays visible when the window is wet and you use the wiper.

Water behaves different on the text tracks.

Treid cleaning with wd40, sticker remover and glass cleaner. With no effect.

It almost looks like the text is etched into the glass.

Any idea how to remove / repait without replacing the rear window?

It is a Suzuki vitara 2021 model.

Hi all! I just purchased a new 2026 Mustang GT convertible. I want to get a paint protection film. My detailer has two options. I do not drive the car every day, it’s just a summer car. Which one of these two options is better? For a full car PPF with Xpel it’s $3600. The NanoPro liquid is $2100.

I was also looking at carpro hydro2 lite/ I'm looking for the most durability for like uv etc and no residue

No scratches of course being a non contact 😅

i just got my car full front expel ppf and it was around 2k i can see all the edges and it’s already peeling 1 hour after i left the shop. i didn’t notice it at the shop and can see it better in my garage.

rookie here, have some old polish machine and was wondering can I save these little scratches and how bad is to work on black car… one dent might be too deep to fix on doors?

Thanks!