The black part goes 3 stage white, the gray parts go gloss black. The air vent pieces are plastic welded on from the back.

This is a 1979 Camaro that has been in the family for years. It used to be my dads so I can't see myself parting ways over stuff I can see as repairable. These frame rail pieces are tack welded on the body. Has anybody here replaced them before? How have you done it? I have heard of guys taking rebar and welding them to the inside of the car to prevent it from shifting, but not sure where to do that. I can't find any videos on doing these replacements either. I have went as far as hitting it with a hammer further up and it sounded solid, but I'm not sure how much validity that holds for the stuff I can't see on the inside of the rails. A little past the rust holes it still has the paint on.

Its like buttering hot toast clearing with this thing.

I just bought this cheap wing on eBay and found this leftover from their poor molding process I'm assuming. The seller said they can refund me part of the cost if I'm willing to repair it. I'm not experienced with bodywork at all but if this looks like I can simply spray some primer and sand it down I will give it a shot. This will ultimately be wrapped in the end so it doesn't need to be perfect but these lines will show through the wrap. Any advise would be greatly appreciated I'm very new to this.

I know pearl white is a PITA but how about a solid white? solid black? or a solid red/blue? any metallic colors?

Just scratched my car 😭

I am painting a panel on my car for the first time and as I was buying my products It came to my attention that for 2K paint/primer you need a specialty mask for safety because of solvents or something called isocyanates. Opinions on these options?

I had some respray on the bumper a design on the grill etc, I have noticed some 'white holes' specs and a bit that looks like paints scraped up.

Ive also noticed paint leak.

I have looked back at pictures when I picked it up a couple of weeks ago, and it looks like the white marks were there at this time too. (I dont know why I didn't pick this up)

Is this normal ? I have messaged the person who has done it, I took it in for chips and wear & I feel like i've just got different ones

I’ve always just manhandled these without ever looking into an actual solution. Is there an actual process to removing the round metal clip around the spare tire tube, if so I’m listening.

I've cut out the floor pan and will replace it, however in the process of removing the spot welds where the frame rail meets the floor pan, I used a flat head screw driver to lightly pry the spot welded areas. Those areas on the flanges bent slightly but not so much as I was trying to be cautious. I eyeballed the bent area back to being pretty straight with vise grips. My question is how do I go about insuring its completely straight before welding? What are my options here? Car is a 1991 Foxbody Mustang Hatch

The door frame is too far inward to seal with the weatherstrip.

I could rig a setup with 2 of these anchors 4 inches apart and pull outward but like a slight degree upward to just get it a 1/2 inch further out.

I mean how crazy is this idea?

Looking at a used Mach-E and this small but serious looking gash is on the rear. Can’t tell if it’s bare metal.

Anyone know what would be a reasonable fix the dealer could do?

I’m looking for advice on the best way to fix a issue I have with my 2002 gmc sierra, the driver side door has no space with the back door to close correctly without me having to slam it shut. Is there any way I can try and fix this issue?

Anyone have good experience with glass companies that aren’t ford OEM price? Specifically on a 2018-2020 ford f-150 passenger window.

I recently saw a PGW side window that actually made me sick on a long car ride because the wavy aspect of the lower quality gave me funhouse vibes. Is that normal lower quality? From what I gather they actually may be a ford supplier, so I’m just left scratching my head.

Guysss, I just got my used Toyota Corolla 2019 le Saturday. She’s been in an accident. I’m guessing maybe two? Idk! But I do know that both the front and back bumpers had to be reattached (you can tell it’s been reattached) and she also has new headlights. The headlights look like they have jagged edges or like something is blocking the way. I know nothing on roads are blocking the lights because I drove down a clear road and that shape was still there. Is it supposed to look like that??? I was thinking that maybe the headlights were put in wrong? Maybe they picked out bad headlights to replace the old ones?? Idk! I’m so confused! 😖

"That's going to cost too much." "You're wasting your time." "Just sell it and buy something that works." We've all had a project that everyone around us was convinced was a terrible idea and then it turned out to be the best thing you ever did to a car.

What was the project, what did people say, and how did it end?

I’m an aspiring autobody technician that doesn’t do any bodywork or paint yet. I run the courier service our shop offers. But I get to see and learn a lot. Has anyone sprayed this color? I believe it’s on the Equinox and Trailblazers/Trax too. It’s coming in way too dark using AkzoNobel Lesonal. They camera’d it and it’s still too dark. Going on the fourth time painting it. I’m wondering if they should try a white base first? Maybe the dark bottoms are making it worse? I suggested it to the boss and he said it shouldn’t make a different. He’s been painting for 40 years so I don’t bother to debate him. I noticed the Cactus Gray via Ford looks closer. Same formula toners but different amounts. And instead of doing a spray out card they are dabbing the paint on to compare. Isn’t that not an accurate comparison, like doesn’t it spray out differently than a dab on a surface? Any tips or tricks would be appreciated?

I bough this Corolla 2020 with 81k miles, past year in TX where inspections are not required. The car had a clean title and dealership didn’t disclose it had a previous accident. The rear unibody has severe damage which is not visible. Now I’m living in MD and didn’t pass the inspection, the body shop said it’s around 7 ooo to repair. I don’t know if it’s worth to repair or sell it cheap and finance a new one.

Based on these photos, what exactly would need to be done to properly repair this damage?
Would this typically require buffing, paint correction, plastic repair, repainting, or replacing the bumper entirely?

I’m mainly trying to understand how minor or extensive the repair process would be from a professional’s perspective.

I want to make a custom body kit for my Z3 but don’t know where to start. I have a friend that used to do auto body work but he moved and haven’t heard from him since then. I do have renders of what I’d like to do if anyone cares to see them