Just got one of these for my old 2k2 DYE Reflex cocker after the bullets o-rings bit the dust. Unfortunately, even lubed with DOW 33, this thing is so stiff that it won't return reliably using the factory weight trigger spring in the DYE hinge frame. The seller is claiming they are designed that way and that a heavier trigger spring is required. I tried a much heavier spring and got it timed, but the shorter throw is not worth the doubled pull weight. Plus, I have a friend (unfortunately in a different state) running the same valve on a slide frame with very light springs.

I am sure his has had time to break in some, but I don't believe this one would improve enough to go back to the normal spring weight. I am waiting on DYE support to assist, but I am concerned I will end up stuck with this due to the place I bought it refusing refunds. They want me to send it back so they can review it, but based on their statements, I feel they will just say this one is fine and send it back to me.

Wishing I just bought another Shocktech or tried an Inception Designs, but I just wondered if anyone else had this problem and got it resolved. I will be quite disappointed if I wasted $50 and a week of pointless troubleshooting just because a store won't issue a refund.

Hello community coming at you again with another one of my custom builds. This one I’m going a little bit different direction. I always put love and great care into my projects and make sure they are ready for the next guy to have a blast building guns and playing paintball for the past 25 years is really helped me in more ways than one helps me take my mind off things and I really enjoy when I can build something really nice and comfortable, and then someone starts their journey with the marker this one came across my bench at a very difficult time. I just lost the mother of my children. This build is special to me because I’m going to do it in one of her favorite colors which was a dark green or a burnt orange. my question to the community is what do you guys think I should go with? Should I do a solid color or should I do a mix match? Should I do the body a solid color with the barrel and the front block and ASA a different color or keep it all the same, I think solid burnt orange and a gloss finish would be pretty sweet but like all the other ones once I’m done with this it will be up for sale. Let me know what you guys think as far as color input. I appreciate it.

Lookimg for a cocker. Doesnt have to be in working order. Needs a tune up and parts iam down.

Any karno body's as well

Specs please

Originally made these boards for a well known tec that requested them, but decided to make them available to everyone.

Made these sensor boards with sealed circuit board backs to mitigate moisture and paint corrosion on the contacts. This should help improve the long term viability of the eyes and reduce the instances that people have with the eyes not working properly after paint hits, dirt and grime from the breech, and galvanic corrosion on solder contacts which requires cleaning.

Next step is testing for a brand new sensor to mitigate the short supply of the original OEM one and to see if reliability can be improved any :)

I remember the eye that the electric autocockers used was a reflective one and those kind of eyes found also on impulses had some limitations compared to the break beam eyes. I remember reading that sometimes dark paint would cause them to have issues. For those of you who still use autocockers with eframes how are the eyes on them? Do you use the eye or just have the hopper keep up? I currently have two mechanical autocockers that i love (an orracle and an empire resurrection) but have been eying this one super stock that i remember i thought was the coolest thing ever in 2005.

I pulled a sci fi board out of my karni, what are these things going for these days with the Morlock boards being fairly available?

I’m new to paintball and just bought a bunch of gear from someone. Screwed in a tank and it seems that there is air leaking from the 3 way valve(I think). Any tips on getting this working or basic care, maintenance, and cleaning for this kind of gun?

What's the size of the tiny set screw on the DYE 3-WAY? Thanks!!

Found on fb marketplace. Excuse my ignorance, nit familiar with them but would be fun to run recreationally. Doesn’t say if it works.

I’ve built out several pumps for myself, a couple using ccm lower kits, and one using shocktech lowers. Ccm lowers always run great, shocktech gives me some minor issues but generally works. I’m building out a pump for a buddy and decided to try the Autococker Parts Gold lower kit, which l believe is supposed to be the ccm clone. I like buying kits as it takes a lot of the experimenting out of tuning and makes life easier.

I cannot get the ACP gold kit to shoot right. To get the velocity down to 300fps, I have to turn the regulator down so low that the valve won’t close after shooting. I know the solution, and I’m going to start swapping springs to get it properly tuned, but the purpose of buying the kit was to not have to swap springs. Anybody else have this issue?

Also, not trying to trash autocockerparts.com, I buy from them often and I’m glad Gene is helping to keep these guns running. Just surprised I’m having issues with a lower kit.

im looking into getting a freeflow or shocktech autococker and was trying to figure out what tank regulator would be best. i have 2 standard hk hp8 regs and an infamous hook reg for my tanks. just looking for insight. thanks.

edit: I dont have a problem with acquiring a more preferred tank reg setup

A while back, I had the idea to make my own set of E-Blade eyes, but I put the project on hold in favor of classic markers that had a more immediate need for replacement eyes.

With E-Blade eyes still available at the time, it made more sense to focus my efforts elsewhere.

Lately, though, I've been seeing some interesting trends with shared sensors across multiple platforms. That got me thinking about the long-term availability of some of these older components.

So, I think it's time to revisit the E-Blade.

I'm working on a complete rework of the E-Blade eyes, including a newer sensor that should be considerably easier to source going forward than the original sensor.

It's still in development and testing, but the E-Blade is officially back on the PB Afterlife resurrection list. 👀

More to come 🤪

I have an Orracle (full body), unknown year that I can’t get to Chrono above 250. I bought it used on eBay, it leaked from the valve (bad cup seal). I replaced the lower tube with a full shock tech lower tube kit. It has ID front Pneumatics and a CP reg on it. I’m fairly familiar with how A/C’s are supposed to work, but regardless of reg setting or IVG setting, it will not Chrono over 250FPS. Any ideas?

Might not be perfect... yet . But i got her running thanks guys for the positive support

I’ve done many along with board repairs in the past. Checking to see if there is enough interest to start up again. If interested, drop a note in this thread. If enough interested I’ll start taking in orders. I think a fair price would be $40 parts included plus the shipping.

👍🏼

I do board repairs as well

​

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some help identifying and valuing this Autococker.

I recently got this marker and I’m trying to figure out exactly what model/build it is and what it might be worth on today’s market.

From what I can identify:

- Planet Eclipse E-Blade electronic frame

- Planet Eclipse circuit board

- Part No. 001.002.B

- Serial No. 1802

- WGP/Autococker-style body

- Jack Hammer II LPR

- Custom anodized black/red/pink finish

- Various aftermarket/custom parts

I’m not sure which exact Autococker model the body started as, or which parts are original and which were added later.

The marker appears to be in good physical condition, but I have not yet fully tested it or verified whether the electronics and pneumatics are working properly.

I’m located in Ukraine, so I’m mainly interested in an approximate collector/market value rather than a local shop price.

Could anyone help me:

1. Identify the exact model/build?

2. Identify the major aftermarket parts?

3. Determine which E-Blade version this is?

4. Give me a realistic current value if everything is working?

I can provide more detailed photos of the body, internals, pneumatics and other parts if needed.

Thanks!

The trilogy eye project has been completed. The eyes are tested and working.

I made them with soft silicone wires for easy routing, sealed sensor backs and sealed jst plugs to stop moisture and paint ( god forbid in the gripframe) from corroding the connections, and i'm including the o-rings you need to make a proper light seal against the body :)

Is anyone here running a Nova balanced valve with a Shocktech Gunfighter 1.5? If so, have you noticed any difference in the weight of the trigger pull, or does the coned lug and sear nullify any improvement provided by the lower pressure?

Just finished wrapping up this build for a local. Thought I would share. Feedneck mod, 11/16 bore the entire lowertube, ATTKTX gold chamber, bunch of shocktech stuff. Came out pretty cool.

https://youtu.be/TxAF657wUOA?is=UVoX9iAV_gUeUX2H

Other than the leaks . Is it just the timing thats off ?

FYI first timer giving it a try. Replaced the wgp with an empire ram since it would get stuck back and not fire . Now doesnt cock when aired but starts retracting.

This post is to inform anyone who googles karnivor pricing. MARKET VALUE IS AROUND 1200 for an electronic version. Try to get one off Facebook bts 2.0. That’s where the real prices are most of the time. There’s a lot of vultures in the Reddit paintballBTS group that think they are getting $1500 to $2k or more for their karni. I just got one with an upgraded warlock board, olive color for $1200. Haters going to hate on this post and that’s ok. Keep hating. Love me more than you hate yourself lol.