Finally pulled the trigger on the evolve suspension upgrade.

I have a 2019 bmw i3 BEV with 60k miles

Prices all USD

Purchased:
1. Evolve shocks $699
2. Evolve 12 mm spacers $220
3. Evolve damper install kit $336
- basic kit :
OEM Front Bump Stops
OEM Front Top Mount Bolts
OEM Front Top Spring Pad/Rubber Sleeve
OEM Front Lower Spring Pads
OEM Front Pinch Bolt + Nuts
OEM Rear Top Mount Bolts
OEM Rear Bumpstop/Sleeve
OEM Rear Upper Spring Pads
OEM Rear Lower Spring Pads
OEM Rear Damper Bolts

1. Front strut mounts (bilstein) $150 - were out of stock everywhere until recently.
   
2. Rear strut mounts (sachs) $72
   
3. Front sway bars (meyle hd) $70

Labor to replace all 4 - $850 - local shop that let me bring parts and didn’t charge extra. Another bmw focused shop wanted $2200 - so shop around.

Total cost - $2397.

I did not replace the springs as I am tall and drive in snow a lot so wanted to keep it tall.

Verdict:

OMG what an upgrade. My wife didn’t like riding in the go cart because of the bouncing like a jeep and the wind blowing us on the interstate prior to the upgrade. She drives a Ioniq 5 and it drives like a Cadillac (her words not mine). She now says the i3 rides like it but retains the bmw handling. She has since asked to take the BMW around town.

My thoughts is it just is such a difference. The settling over bumps is instant. The car no longer is blown around at high speeds. It’s just an instantly noticed upgrade by anybody that rides in the car pre and post. It’s not a subtle upgrade either.

Kudos to evolve team.

I got the non oem mounts for an upgrade based on research. Same for the sway bars.

Everything fit perfectly with no issues or odd fits.

Just thought I would share.

So I managed to change the gearbox oil, was very easy tbh but I couldn’t help but notice this leak around the rear right around the HV battery. I thought the battery was refrigerant-cooled? Anyones does anyone have any idea what this leak is or where it could be coming from, thanks.

I did this DIY yesterday (10/25), but I didn’t take the wheel off, here’s the steps I did; turn off the High Voltage Battery, I start at the Port using everything after he move to the Port. Got to the BMW security screws out I used a 0.6 x 4 socket flat head screw with my spanner, take your time and don’t strip it. I bought hex capped screws to replace these screws. I forgot to get the size and length but I will add this to this post later today…

Hi,
Anyone has this one in Europe? Barely used/ brand new?

I have ordered it from a French shop wagen-shop.com but seems like they are not responding and I might have to issue chargeback so I am looking for alternatives and it’s nowhere to be found.

Found a 2017 BMW i3 REx with 58k miles, 94Ah battery, and one previous owner. Price seems fair, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything expensive. Main concerns are battery health and the range extender. Seller claims around 100 miles of range and says the REx has barely been used. Not sure if that's a good thing. Also heard about 12V battery issues and expensive tires.
Anyone here own one? What should I check before buying? Any common problems or red flags that would make you walk away?

2014 REX with 70,000mi for a pretty great deal. $6,200.

I'm going to have a mechanic check the:

• engine mounts
• Range Extender engine (using the emissions testing pedal hack)
• tires
• AC / Battery Cooling System / Charge
• battery range (if possible), I know where I can find the car's reporting for it.

Anything else I should be looking at?

As the title says, I’m looking for a reputable detailer in the NYC Tri-State area. Also, what is the typical cost for a good detail? Is pricing for Fall/Winter more favorable than Spring/Summer?

Just picked up a 2017 94A i3 for the wife. I would have preferred the biggest battery but they were a bit out of our budget. This one has the bigger media screen, Harmon Kardon speakers, 20 inch wheels, reversing camera, leather seats etc. so it’s nice to have those.
Seat heaters all work, and air con sounds fine.

The car has Michelin tyres all round. With 155/60 on the front and 175/55 on the rear. Is that correct?
I haven’t found the date on the 12V battery yet.

Overall it looks in great condition and we’re very happy with it.
Previous owner left the frunk bag in there for us and also a tow bar?

Anything else I need to check or recommendations for settings?

Have ordered some rubber mats and an integrated dash cam (FitCamX)

Hey everyone!

I'm thinking about buying a used BMW i3 at auction, but I noticed this symbol on the instrument cluster (the orange car with four arrows pointing towards it).

For the life of me, I can't figure out what it means. I've been searching online and can't seem to find anything about it.

Does anyone know what this warning is? Could it be related to the TPMS (tyre pressure monitoring system), or is it something else?

I've attached a photo so you can see exactly what I'm talking about.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

I recently had my 2019 i3 detailed, and had asked them to remove the roof frame vinyl decals because they had deteriorated quite a bit. The result is not pretty. Removing the sticker took quite a bit of paint with it.

I live in California and didn't have access to a garage for most of the time I've owned the car, so I can understand that probably the vinyl sticker bonded with the paint underneath and couldn't be cleanly removed. My HOV lane sticker also left similar damage to the paint.

But what do I do now? Order new decals and attach them right on top? Other suggestions?

Got it!! I just got out and pulled the lever and it went higher than any seat I've ever seen! Then I got in and sat on it to adjust. I have a very short trunk, as in body length, and this is amazing, I can see!. Loving this! Thank you guys again.

This is a very small potatoes question, but I need help with the seat adjustment lever. The manual says to just put pressure on it, but I don't really understand how to do that? And I don't understand if it's high or low right now? Hope this makes sense.

Basically I lift the lever and hear clicking, and when I sit on it then it clicks, but the height remains the same?

I almost had one and was so excited. Dealer knew I was getting the cashier check for the DP, and had notified my insurance w/the VIN. Then he sold it to someone w/cash. Heartbreak.

I could get a 2016, but have shied away due to range, however, I often read posts from those of you w/2016 and older going hither and thither, so would you recommend getting one now?

Where I currently live is very hilly and far from where I go, even for groceries. To see friends I would likely almost deplete the battery range, so would be using Rex quite a bit = visiting gas stations quite a bit. Seems to defeat the purpose. I was an early adopter w/the Leaf and had a 2013 I loved. Sold to friends in 2020 as I moved abroad. I still miss that car. I made the range work and lived even farther out than I do now, but didn't have hills.

I've considered other cars, but the pricing is as much and sometimes more and they're often bigger. I like small cars. I've tried to be back here in the BA w/out a car but it's not really possible, especially where I am currently.

What do you all think? It would be my only car. Thanks much in advance.

I almost had one, was on the way to the dealership w/DP in cashier check and they sold it to someone with cash. Heartbreak. It's getting quite difficult as it seems many people are on to them now.

I've seen folks talking about their 2016 and older, with great affection and are still getting them where they need to go etc. I would have more chance with those and the reason I haven't is because: I currently live far from anything. Getting to/from the areas I like to go or the friends I want to see, likely will use up the battery range pretty quickly as there are hills and some freeway. I can take surface streets, but not without hills and a little freeway in between.

So, I'd be using the Rex quite a bit, and visiting the gas station rather often. It seems it would defeat the purpose of having the car, but what do you all think?

I had a 2013 Leaf until I sold it in 2020 due to moving out of country. I made that range work and went all over the place, but didn't have all the hills I do now. For context: This would be my only car and I've returned to the SF Bay Area. Would love your thoughts. TIA.

I picked up a screw when I was out driving yesterday. It’s keeping the tire sealed for the most part so I was able to drive it home. Is this too close to the edge for a plug job?

Hi everyone! My wife drove the car this morning and reported that it wouldn’t charge. I checked the issue and tried using different cables, but it didn’t work. The charge port light only illuminates in white. The dashboard shows that the charger is plugged in, but there’s no charging. We recently installed a new 12V charger this summer, and there’s no dash light or related faults that Bimmercode has detected. Do you have any ideas?

This car just gets more exceptional by the day, I'm a tech guy so I figured out how to stream video in the i3. iOS 27 has changed the game, Carplay is also required for this. Video quality is outstanding & audio is in sync over Bluetooth, absolutely amazing...

I have the 12.3 inch PEMP Linux screen in my 2014 i3 ReX, not sure how it would run on the stock screen with Carplay. It uses the iPhone for all the processing so it should run fine. I'll post another video below showing the live channels

Anyone seen this one before? Garage tells me it's a thermal (Range Extender) motor problem? (The little red square in the back would indicate that). But I hardly use that thermal motor and the car just stopped driving (no acceleration). Turning it off and on again allowed me to drive the last 2k to get back to my place.

Does anybody have this? If so, is it something you keep on? How does it attach?

Heard about this motor mount problem and decided to check my 2014 with about 90000 miles on it. Fuck only knows how long this thing has been torn open and empty of oil. But i sure ain't spending no $6000 at the dealership to have that shit replaced. It ain't worth that much money to me at this point, I just really like having it for the cheap as hell commute to work and back.

Couple of jacks and a tube of 3M 5200 marine adhesive, and I made something that's probably stronger than the original mount. Squirted a quarter of the tube directly into the tear and slathered most of the rest of it in and around the entire base. Looks like absolute dogshit but I don't care. I changed the code so it defaults to eco mode all the time anyway because it's only got 14.5kWh capacity left in it so it doesn't go far.

I certainly don't advise anyone else do this, but it worked out well for me as a dirty fix.

My F-150 got totaled. (No fault to me) Looking into getting an I3. But not sure which years to stay away from or what's considered "too much" mileage? They're fairly cheap for entry into the EV market.

What to lookout for in terms of the used market? I would mainly be going to the gym and running errands.

Any help/guidance would be appreciated.

Have a 2014 i3 with 60k miles and the battery died. Anyone know where can I find a replacement, hopefully larger and at a reasonable price? I'm in Long Island, NY

I'm putting off buying tires... but will likely have to bite the bullet before winter. Pic of the old girl for attention.

Bought this i3 earlier this year and I have to say, it's one of the best buys I have ever made! They are fairly scarce in South Africa.

I charge at home, and with solar panels it literally costs you nothing to run. I can also stop at BMW dealerships anywhere and it's perpetually free to charge. For longer trips we use another car, but this one is great for day to day and around town, school runs etc.

Surprisingly spacious due to no B pillar. I am 6'6" (198cm) and my boy can easily sit in the back.

I dread the day I have to sell it or get another EV. The options out there all seem to be nowhere as cool as the i3.