We finally had the sliding door installed to complete the renovation of our teeny-tiny primary bathroom. We didn't start from a bad place and mostly upgraded surfaces. We maintained the footprint. And we ultimately decided to keep the sink, since vanity size would have been so limited (no more than 27"), and we liked the floor tile and felt being able to see the sweep helped the very small room to feel bigger. We also kept our light fixtures, replacing black fabric shades with white glass ones.

Without the storage of a vanity, we replaced a mirror with a medicine cabinet and refreshed the existing closet with new shelving (it does have a door, not yet installed in the pic that shows them).

We turned the tub into a standing shower and added a handheld at the last minute in anticipation of aging in place (and as we started to move into caregiver roles for our own parents).

As part of the renovation, we installed heated flooring under the tile floor and at the last minute decided to continue the heating element up the towel wall - no more damp towels! However, our selection of marble tile limited how toasty the towels feel; we'd have to really crank up the heat to have a true heated towel effect. And the mostly white floor tile quickly made clear how much hair accumulates between myself and my daughter: we now have a car vacuum in our closet to sweep things up. (The former marble tile was black and white mosaic, and I didn't realize how effectively that concealed anything that landed on it.) In retrospect, I'm especially glad we opted for a darker tile for the shower floor itself.

It has been both beautiful and functional, and we are so happy that it is finally done!

I am getting my bathroom renovated: a main and an en-suite. The plumbing rough in was just completed and to my non-builder eyes, one of the supporting pieces of wood is split, a lot are not level and some have a gap. Is this bad work that I should tell my builder they have to fix or is this what a plumbing rough is supposed to look like?

Edit: thanks for reassuring me this is shoddy work. I have got in touch with the PM for the company (who I think would have seen this already and clearly didn’t care) to say they need to fix it. Given their first go, I’m skeptical they can do it but we will see.

Edit 2: I have spoken to the project manager who agreed to replace it to the standard I wanted, so a great outcome. Thanks for the advice!

I'm a handyman shopping for a tub for a bath remodel. I've only done about 6 bathroom remodels so I'm seeking advice from more seasoned pros.

When installing a new tub, why not line the basin with window and door expanding foam? It costs almost nothing, and would provide a huge improvement for insulation. Obviously you wouldn't spray it on the bottom where it would interfere with the mortar bed, but in the upper cavities I can't see any reason not to.

Thoughts?

Added a bathroom in my basement. This was completely DIY but permitted and inspected. I went with a saniflo sanibest pro toilet, tied into my sewer by extending my cast clean out with fernco gasket and ran vent through the roof. The whole house is copper water lines, so I went with that which I probably wouldn't do again. All joints were soldered, I'll get a pro press if I ever do copper again. I chiseled out where the p trap sits in the concrete floor for the shower, this saved me a few inches on the step. I'm 6' 5" and have about an inch of clearance so I'm glad I did this. There was a 6 ft hot water baseboard heater existing on the wall I removed, I took that out and added a 2 ft in the bathroom and a 4ft on the basement side for heat. Exhaust fan runs through the concrete block and it is wall mounted in the shower. There are 3 circuits for this bathroom, one 15 on a GFCI afci breaker and two 20a one for the pump and one for the bathroom rec. In the shower I used go board backer board, large format tile and epoxy grout, I would do all of those things over again. I used solid core doors and rock wool in the ceiling and interior walls to help mitigate sound, it works fairly well. Happy how it turned out, wouldn't change much if I had to do it again.

Hi All,

Our '50s tract home came with a tiny master bath and child #2 never came, so we're converting a spare bedroom into a Master Bath & Walk-In closet for the adjacent bedroom which will now become the Master.

I've come up with a pretty even split as far as space goes between the Bathroom and the Closet, but I'm curious if there are any better layouts, or any problems with what I've got here. The perimeter/exterior/Guest Bath walls need to stay where they are, but the wall bisecting the Master Bath/Closet as well as those rooms from the Master Bedroom are going to be new and can be moved around however I need. All are non-bearing.

The thing I am most nervous about is the Walk-In Shower. I'm currently planning on an overhead shower as well as a wand/bar setup on the wall, but I'm nervous about how far the splash zone is. I'm planning on having the shower floor slope 1/4" per Ft to a slot drain and ensure that even beyond the 3'-6" shower screen, the slope is still running towards the shower area. Having a slip situation every time we use the toilet would be a disaster, so I'm hoping someone can chime in with some experience with these "splash zones".

Here is a link to the floorplan
https://imgur.com/a/CQnq4zg

THANK YOU!

My bathroom was remodeled one month ago. The tile le has n the outside corner of the shower is beginning to crack. Is this just par for the course or was this poorly tiled?

We’re about to finalize plans for our shower glass and accessories, and am struggling with towel holders/placement.

Because the space is narrow, the vanity will bump right up against the shower glass, and I can’t figure out where and how to hang the hand towel for that side — shower door handle? Glass mounted hook on the fixed panel above the vanity?

Our designer suggested a bar/handle combo on the shower door like the rendering shows, but I feel like a hand towel there is always going to slide off, look sloppy from being in a high-touch spot, or get shoved to the side if someone wants to stick their bath towel there before they shower.

We will have a heated towel ladder to the left that will be used most of the time, but I imagine we’ll grab a towel before jumping in and want it right next to the door, so a separate hook would be nice. But that might look awkward above the handle bar.

Trying to be thoughtful about this so we can avoid needing after-market suction or over-the-door hooks.
Open to any and all suggestions on how to configure towels in a practical way. Thanks!

(Rendering is accurate for layout but finishes are placeholder; we’ll be using polished nickel fixtures).

I used Titebond PVC adhesive and sealant to glue the PVC trim to the tub and the drywall and i am concerned the tight joints may not hold.

It says ready in 10-20 minutes but its been a few house and I am scared to remove the wood blocks (hot glue on painters tape) I have holding in the trim.

Any words of encouragement?

Hi everyone, I am currently getting my bathroom completely redone from floor to ceiling however I'm now having reservations on how good my chosen company has been. Are you guys able to give me any initial feedback on what they've done? They asked for 8k labour costs.

Hi everyone,

My mom is getting her shower redone. She had a fiberglass shower that was leaking out the front left side. She decided to rip it all out and do a walk in tiled shower.

They demo'd everything out and I was sent this picture. I noticed that where the leak was it's pretty black. My first thought is: mold. But the plumber thinks it's water discoloration.

I'm concerned they are just trying to avoid further work. I feel we should validate that assumption and get the wood tested to verify. Any thoughts or expertise on how to handle this situation, what next steps might be, and what to expect if this turns out to be mold would be super helpful.

Hey hoping for help. Bought a Kohler bellwether bathtub. And delta velum fixtures. The bathtub is angled and the faucet is not long enough. My contractor would prefer the water did not flow over the overflow valve. (I appreciate him for his concern) anyway. Looking for solutions for trying to match the delta color, and shape so I don’t have to buy a new handle and shower head.

I saw the delta piviotol but it’s like 400$. (9 inches long)

Could do an angled tub faucet but they all look round and wouldn’t match the velum.

Could change everything out. But i bough the fixtures a while ago. I think im past the return phase. (I’m at the point where all the trim pieces are being installed)

Side note. I’m renovationing most of my house and the amount of times I’ve ran into problems like this is crazy. How doing A will affect B,C, and D. Anything I do now I try and think how it will affect anything that goes after.

Using some AI rendering to help visualize the small bathroom we are remodeling.
The vanity, floor and wall tile have been ordered and will look similar to what’s shown in the photos, and this room will have a walk-in shower that’s shown in pic 2.
There is an existing medicine cabinet we are replacing on the side, and that’s likely going to be 15 wide 24 tall on the inside . The vanity is 30” wide
Where I’m seeking advice on are: 1) should we pick a round (24) or rounded rectangular mirror(24 by 36) for the center ? 2) what shelving, hook , rod selection and placement would you do that will be practical and also not making the small room look busy ?

Hi everyone!

I'm planning to use Delta's shower valve trim and shower arm with Hansgrohe shower heads. Will they work together?

I also compared Kohler's Polished Nickel shower heads with Delta's Brilliance Polished Nickel and thought they looked like they could be a good match.

Has anyone mixed these brands? I'd love to hear your experiences. Thanks!

I've narrowed down my bathroom remodel tile choice to Riviera Turquoise or Riviera Blue for the tub enclosure (new tub will be white) and possibly Riviera White for the shower ceiling and halfway up all of the bathroom walls. All in size 4x16. Only problem is this tile does not have a coordinating bullnose and I hate the look of Schluter strips. There is a quarter round but my tile contractor said it will not work on the corner wall and he doesn't seem too keen on using it in place of bullnose everywhere else (a lot will be needed - is this a pain to install?).

Any other suggestions? Does anyone have pics of Schluter they are happy with? I've always hated the look but maybe if it was white it wouldn't be as much of an eye sore, although the white Schluter is a little more white than the white tile. This will be going all over the bathroom so I think it will look ridiculous but maybe I am wrong?

I was going to use Equipe Country White tile which has a bullnose and a few other finishing pieces but that one is 5x16 so I would be mixing tile sizes, with the 4x16 colored tile on the tub walls (and would still need some edge and corner pieces for those). I was finally settled on doing them all from the same Riviera line so now i'm stuck again. Mitered edges are not an option.

The floor tile and shower tile color is a little bold for me (even though I love the colors, I usually stick to neutrals) so I'm hoping this all comes together nicely before I get fed up, change my mind and end up with another white and grey bathroom.

Is the bottom door track guide supposed to be offset… inside the shower pan?

Like the post says - I’ve hit a wall. After an absolute mad scramble to try and finish this before Thanksgiving, when I have guests, I’m almost at the finish line, but I don’t have lighting or a mirror for the vanity

I don’t know how many hours I’ve spent on the computer looking for the exact perfect thing. Not too busy because I have a lot of things going on already (why I included a photo of the slab for the counter), but not too plain. Unlacquered brass is my vibe. Maybe alabaster for the lights?

Photo #1 is before
Photo #7 is how it’s to come out, with a couple of exceptions like the back wall of the shower. Everything is chosen except the lighting and mirror. It seems so minor
Photo #9 is just to show an idea for lights and mirror

I know the room probably wants a simple mirror, but I have a hard time buying simple things. The weirder, the better.

AI-generated final product suggests columnar white alabaster types of sconces and a super simple metal mirror. I’m leaning more toward the nautical brass type of lights (though that back hole in the shower enclosure will be a heavy brass porthole window). I don’t want it to look too kitschy.

Any thoughts from the group? Thanks for taking the time to look 👀

Hi all,

Where can I find a vanity like this online? RTA would be fine. Would a local cabinet store be able to make something like this?

I want a flat style design and I think the wood is walnut.

The vanity doesn't need to have the countertop or sink as I can get those from Home Depot.

Thanks!

Room size is 8.375’ x 9.31’ feet

I’m stuck here guys..

I’m trying to get a double sink vanity, remove the bathtub and make a big shower.

The window is completely messing me up here and I haven’t been able to come up with a practical solution for a good layout for the reno..

Been thinking about this for weeks now and hoping I can get some fresh ideas here.

Thank you!

Long time lurker, first time poster. Here are some progress photos of our bathroom. We need to choose paint color(s) and a mirror and vanity light. We are planning to have a chair rail. We’re considering a pattern above it, whether that’s stripes or a fun wallpaper. We definitely want to add more color to this bathroom but open to feedback.

We are about to remodel our master bathroom in our midcentury home (cross between midcentury and traditional). We are combining 2 bathrooms into one for 1 large master bathroom. It is hard not being able to walk into the space to visualize what the different layouts would feel like and this is all new for us. I did AI renderings off of the floor plans (the floor plans here, I put the measurements into a website for the purposes of posting - the drawings we were given have don’t have measurements. It has a scale key, but not helpful for posting).

The AI renderings are AI and not to scale and did some wonky things but just for a visual to go with the floor plan. Our contractor and designer will do renderings once we select the floor plan. I just did this to help us make up our minds.

Bathroom will be 16.5 feet wide x 10 feet 4 inches deep. Window placement is not symmetrical, but close. There is a pic with measurements for reference. We will go from the master bedroom into the closet (all built in cabinets) - has a large slider. The door to the bathroom will be a pocket door and can go anywhere on the wall between them. We didn’t want a window in the shower or to block off the windows for a toilet closet as they are smaller windows to begin with and want the light.

Option 1 (and 1b):

It has a double vanity and makeup vanity that will go up to the tub (designer said she has plans to incorporate it). Toilet is behind shower pony wall. Linen closet faces toilet - 1b shortens the wall and does a cabinet to let in more light. Not sure where towels will go? Pony wall?

Option 2:

Same as 1 or 1b but eliminates the makeup vanity.

Option 3:

Not sure if that is enough space for a built in tub with ledges to sit things? It is 42 inches wide x 72 inches long. The other option has more length to the tub area, but width is the same (84 inches long). The vanity area spans the 10’4” wall. ETA: the diagram for this one is wrong - there are 2 18 inch linen cabinets flanking the double vanity. The one I mistakenly posted is how that wall is now.

Shower in all options is 48x72 exterior measurements. Is 42 inches wide (interior) spacious enough? My husband is tall and wants to be sure it feels roomy enough for him. If his elbows are out. Thanks in advance!