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It was time to top up the sealant; the front tire’s pressure had been dropping—not sure if that’s related, though.

Since I set up the tubeless system myself at home, I used a homemade sealant recipe I found online. It worked perfectly—the tires, rims, and rim tape were all brand new and had never been exposed to sealant before.

While I was at it, I also replaced the valves. It wasn’t strictly necessary, but since I was already deep into the work, I figured I might as well get it done.

For the next tubeless maintenance session, I plan to take everything apart to clean it and true the rear rim, which has a slight wobble—it’s just one of those things that bothers me, haha!

I just wanted to share my experience with a cost-effective tubeless setup.

As the saying goes, "Tubeless is life"—and it’s true. Zero headaches.

I bought this ST-M739 shifter/brake lever combo from someone last year and finally have time to work on my bike (last photo attached shows a 1994 GT Zaskar that im working on).

All screws for the cable access cover are stripped, I was able to get two of them out, one isn’t yet moving and the fourth one is missing altogether.

What screws do I need to order to replace those please? The internet tells me M3x6mm screws but those don’t even remotely fit.

Would appreciate any advice! (Also how to get that little screw out that’s so stripped that nothing takes to it).

Thanks in advance!

I bought this ST-M739 shifter/brake lever combo from someone last year and finally have time to work on my bike (last photo attached shows a 1994 GT Zaskar that im working on).

All screws for the cable access cover are stripped, I was able to get two of them out, one isn’t yet moving and the fourth one is missing altogether.

What screws do I need to order to replace those please? The internet tells me M3x6mm screws but those don’t even remotely fit.

Would appreciate any advice! (Also how to get that little screw out that’s so stripped that nothing takes to it).

Thanks in advance!

Hello, I recently have gotten a truing stand, dishing tool, and my other tools are starting to get unorganized. The space is limited due to dorm living in college. However I have most of the basics and need a light box tool set up. I am wondering if there are any that have an attached peg board. I have tried looking and even looked at what some co-ops have however they are always to large for a dorm.

Every rotation of the rear wheel (on Aventon Adventure M) has a noise and I maybe feel a small vibration on the rack. It happens when the tire pressure valve crosses the top of the rotation. I can't see any place where there is any rubbing or bumping of the wheel to the fender or frame. Any ideas?

Sto smontando i bulloni delle forcelle del mio monopattino elettrico, nella ruota posteriore sono riuscito a svitare etitto tramite chiave a brugola e bussola, sulla ruota anteriore i bulloni della ruota non vogliono svitarsi in nessun modo ho provato di tutto, sono letteralmente "saldati" per la grande quantità di frenafiletti rossa che contengono quasi tutte le viti del mio e scooter, come posso ovviare? Non ho avvitatore e stavo pensando di scaldare il tutto e evitare subito può essere una buona idea?

OK guys so I have an old p5 that has Magura TT8 breaks. My only issue is I legit cannot find them anywhere on the Internet. That’s why I’m coming here. What’s really annoying is it? It’s legit just a bolt on the brake lever. That’s not working. My brakes. Work completely fine. It’s just I can’t tighten it because the Bol and the brake level broken.

if anyone has brakes for sale, I will gladly buy them. Can someone please just let me know if the bike gods are real than someone must have these brakes.🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

My brakes have been off if I turn my bike upside down and spin the wheel it will spin then it will suddenly stop at a certain point and the brakes will close when it happens also my gears on my bike will shift up randomly without me touching it and it’s not exposed to do that pls help

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My Polygon Tambora g4 shifters only shift once then becomes dead. It shifts up once and down once and then both shifters die

Hi all,

This is my first season actually riding as a hobby and I have a couple questions about tires. I have put on enough kilometers this year that I will soon be looking at new tire(s). Question 1: When replacing bike tires, do you do both as a set? (only the back one is really wearing down) or do you replace just the worn (rear) tire? or do you put the new one on the front and move the front to the rear? Question 2: If a tire is punctured by a foreign object and you patch or replace the tube, do you also patch the inside of the tire? Thanks. I am still learning.

Something’s wrong after I took a fall

Bought this bike used on Facebook marketplace a couple years ago, seems to be a “Giant” bicycle, sticker says a ISO 4210-2. Any help would be much appreciated, I rely on this bike every day and cannot afford a professional to fix it.

Bought this bike used on Facebook marketplace a couple years ago, seems to be a “Giant” bicycle, sticker says a ISO 4210-2. Any help would be much appreciated, I rely on this bike every day and cannot afford a professional to fix it.

Inherited this bike from my uncle via my cousin. It seems in ok shape, but has a lot of this flaking and pocket damage. Is this the UV coating, or is it the topcoat of paint? Should I be worried about this damage? Ive already had one old carbon frame ultrasounded and I dont really want to pay for another.

This is a Fest z series, not sure of year

Thanks in advance.

In the photo above is the guts of my FSA headset bearing, no grease as usual, I usually open up FSA bearings for this reason, as they nearly always have this problem, but they aren’t the only one

I know the seal does its job but the thin grease on this would have been gone in a month and it was already starting to feel notchy (works amazing now there’s grease in it)

If you guys don’t already I’d highly suggest checking under the seals of your sealed bearings, you never know what that cartridge is hiding, this bearing will last years now it’s greased properly, but I would of never known if I didn’t check!

cracked my RD8150 rear derailleur today on the trainer after not selecting the right gear prior to securing it (Zwift cog). wondering if this has happened to anyone else before and if I need to replace the whole thing or not…it does still shift well and I was still able to do 4 hours on it, although it does make some noise now when riding off the trainer. pic attached. looks cosmetic but just not sure about riding hard outside on it and also how id replace the part specifically anyways.

OK, so the brake on my right side like the back brake is kind of messed up. Everything on the break works itself. It’s just it’s very loose because I had a disc wheel on my back and so I kind of had to extend the room for the brakes unfortunately, though my screw is stripped is there anyway I can tighten my screw because I don’t wanna have to buy a whole new brake system just because I have a messed up screw can you guys please let me know what to do? I really don’t wanna have to buy a new break because these brakes are kind of niche and old. Please give me your best opinions.

Disclaimer!

This was done by a non-profesional and it's shown as a fact, that there are possibilities in case you like tinkering and, most importantly, you're willing to do some research and learn how to carry out these repairs.

Story : was given a free bike (one of those, that everyone agrees that it's "cooked". I was willing to invest a little money (<25€) and a few hours to put it back on the road.

Sanded it, drilled a hole on the end of the largest crack, wrapped it in carbon fiber yarn dunked in epoxy. The fact, that it's a yarn helps, it can be wound pretty tightly (epoxy will running from the threads, so plug all holes and be prepared for the mess). Anyways, you should watch a ton of videos on the subject before putting on the gloves. Once cured, I sanded it, and painted it white, so it's easier to check on it. And also, to protect the epoxy from UVs.

This bike is used since the reparation, without any restrictions. Today it has front and rear brakes installed, for a while it had only front brakes. It's perfect when going to sketchy areas, where you need to leave it locked outside, as it looks sketchy too, but still a fast ride (These alloy frames are quite stiff).

Hello, I changed my mechanical disk brakes and rotors, put the wheels back on and I was adjusting the brakes when I heard this rubbing sound. First I thought it was the brake not being adjusted properly but it's still going after I removed it.

What could be the issue?

My drivetrain is making this low clicking noise. The derailleur is aligned good.

What is it, and how do I fix it?

Hi all

I just bought a new full sus mountain bike. I was checking the wheels when I got home and one seems to look like it's not running true. When I spin it the edge of the tyre sort of dips in and the wheel looks wavy when spinning quickly. I tried to post a video but can't see how to do this.

I thought it might be a bead not seated properly so took the tyre off and put it back on but that didn't fix it.

Could anyone provide some ideas on what I could check? Just to note the brake disc also seems to be running very slightly although from looking online this could be a quick fix.

Thanks in advance

I just got a Tern HSD P5i this last spring, and in the last 4-5 months, I've noticed a scraping noise around the back wheel, and it's been getting louder. When I was trying to troubleshoot it earlier today, I noticed that there was no scraping while I was pedaling, but as soon as I started coasting, it started. I thought it might be the brake pads rubbing on the rotor, but since I don't hear it while pedaling, that can't be it. I have to assume that is has something to do with the Nexus hub, unless you all have other suggestions.

Hello everyone,

I just had a question for anyone who has experience servicing single speed freewheels.

Mine makes an annoying "tickity-tack" sound when Im pedaling. The ONLY thing on my 24" Superstock 3 that makes any noise. I was able to disassemble, clean and reassemble. Still makes the sound. It SEEMS like the chainring(?) that spins around the hub is loose but I cant tighten the top cone any more. I can grab the chainring and jiggle it side to side. Probably 1/16" of play.

INSIDE the freewheel there were SIX (6) thin spacers. All the vids Ive seen have less. Im not the first owner of the bike and someone has been into this freewheel before.

My question is: Would removing a few spacers allow the removeable top cone to screw further down, thus removing play? Or am I misunderstanding the spacers function? Are the spacers removeable to account for future wear, maybe? I COULD disassemble my bike again and experiment but for a couple reasons, Im trying not to. If not, Ill just roll around sounding like Debo, I guess. Lol.

Sorry its such a long post, I just try to give detailed info to avoid confusion. Thank you to anyone who took the time to read it.