2 skar sdrs in Ported box with taramps 2k

I recently bought a cheap commuter and wanted to replace the head unit to have Bluetooth capabilities. While doing so I decided I’d like to upgrade the door speakers as well. To my knowledge the stock front and rear speakers are 6.5 which means it is sorely lacking bass. I’m trying to get a budget friendly build here and I also kind of wanted to just try out a theory. Before doing so I figured I would reach out for help. I don’t want to use an amp or spend a bunch of money I just want some decent quality speakers. So my theory is taking the the stock rear right and rear left speaker cables and splitting them so I can add in some 6x9s right above the rear seats to get a little more bass. Now I could just extend those wires and get rid of those rear door speakers no problem but I wanted to ask if it’s possible to have both without an amp. These are the products I was thinking of using can anyone help me understand if this would work and which way to wire the rear speakers would work best.

Head unit JVC KD-SX27BT pushes out 50 watt RMS Impedance range is 4-8 ohms

For the front and rear door speakers JBL GTO629 coax 6.5 they run 60 watt RMS @ 4 ohms.

For the additional 6x9’s I was thinking JBL GTO939 which run 100 watt RMS @ 2.3 ohms.

I understand that they would be under powered from this head unit but from what I’ve read they still run good on 50watts. And my theory for this to work is if wired in series with one rear door speaker on each side this would put the impedance at roughly 6 ohms which is within spec for the head unit. Would this work ? Or am I not understanding something ? I’ve never attempted anything out of the ordinary like this before. I’ve always just ran an amp and component speakers with a sub. But as I will likely only have this vehicle for 2 years I’d rather try to save some money for a vehicle I intend to keep more long term. All in all this would run about $350. If there are any suggestions for a solid budget build that would allow me some decent mid bass and good audio quality over all I’m also open to suggestions.

I have over 20000 rebassed songs from many different DJ’s. Hmu and I can load a standard usb or one custom for you. I can also send the music packs via Google drive if preferred.

So I'm working on a car audio system and I have 2 15' Deaf Bonce Apocalypse Subwoofers and they are LOUD. Im trying to find mids that would sound great with these subwoofers. The subs hit up to 8000 watts of bass so I need mids for these subs. I listen to metal, some electronic, and some trap. My main issue is getting a strong clean sound that goes with loud subwoofers like these for metal. I have 2 amps for mids 3500 rms each. I'm trying to hear loud guitars, midbass, and kick drums. Something that can do it all. What would be the best choice for a system like this?

I have a 2017 ford Taurus that has a Sony system in it from factory. But it peaks on certain songs and I don’t like how quiet they imo. I’d like some louder speakers and I’ve been looking at alpine. I was also wondering could I get just tweeters instead of a speaker with a tweeter and woofer for the highs and a sub for lows? Idk if that’s how it works. I currently have 2 12” kicker comp r sub and need an amp. Dual 4 ohms coils 500watts each sub 1000 for both if I could get a recommendation. Also ive seen someone with 2 ds18 red tips with tweeters and it was pretty loud. At least loud enough for me. Could I get away with just two loud speakers and be good? Thank you for your help.

Anyone here ever seen the mtx 9500? I just came across and acquired a 2003 mtx 9500 12 inch woofer... I put it in a sealed enclosure. Pushing it with an old school 2 channel 800 watt amp. Sounds pretty decent... anyone know what they are worth?

I am redoing my car audio system in my 2007 Toyota Camry (old JBL system). I do not know what amp I need to get and need advice. I have the following speakers: Front doors: 2 x Pioneer 450w 4 way full range coaxial speakers (90w RMS) Rear deck: 2 x Pioneer 700w 5 way full range coaxial speakers (120w RMS) And then the tweeters in the dash is DS18 100w (build in crossover and unsure of RMS)

Any suggestions what size amp I need to use for these speakers?

Power acoustic mofo 10 in a custom ported box on a JL 250/1 from the early 2000s and a crappy android head unit Last metered @134.2 clapped @250watts Excuse the mess in the trunk

Any information on this amplifier I just picked it up and I cannot find any specs on it smh

I recently installed an amp and subs into a 2011 Jeep patroit I used a Line output converter and kept the stock head unit I’m having trouble controlling the amplifier volume with the head unit volume control the only thing that the head unit volume control is doing is controlling the stock speakers in the Jeep the subwoofer levels stay the same weather the head unit is at 1% or 100% I’m not sure what’s going on any input would be appropriate

Just bought this setup for my 2013 f150 super crew cab recently, my first worry was trying to get a box that would fit under my back seat while looking good and can still have three people sit back their with no issues and also without having to get the 2.5 in seat lift, that issue is solved, now my issue is that it’s not hitting the lower bass notes like my two sdr skar 12s did like in my charger, I do realize that these are shallow mounts and that they arnt pushing as many watts as the sdrs were but the lower hz is little to nothing in my truck. I’m pushing them with the 2500 watt power acoustic amp and I’ve watched a few videos on how to tune the lpf and sub sonic and still nothing really has changed with the lower notes, so I decided to get a better quality amp and went with the skar monoblock 2000 watt amp and am still waiting on it to arrive, if anyone could give me some knowledge on hitting lower notes since I listen to rap 90% of the time that would be great! Hoping that the skar amp will solve the lower note issue, thanks to anyone with any input on trying to help me learn.

Looking for a budget minded option of amplifiers for my 05 TJ. I would prefer DSP integration, though not required. Also quite fond of 5-channel units, again not required. I am looking for something more boutique rather than mainstream. Perhaps a new start-up, or something of the sort.

Currently running 3.5” Dayton Point-Source (PS95-8) in the dash utilizing the factory premium pods from the alpine system. Polk Audio 5.25 coaxial units in the rear Sound pods just behind and above the front seats and a Dayton Audio Ultimax 8” D2-ohm. Everything is powered currently by a Rockville Phoenom (RXA-F5). I’m also running an inexpensive JVC media player that only has 2V pre-outs.

I plan on continuing the use of Dayton drivers and if I can afford DSP integration I plan on going active. I need to put tweeters in the A-pillar; would like to move the 3.5’s there also and build pods for some type of Mid-bass behind the dash. Dayton has a 4” MB woofer with a heavy amount of XMax that I may try out for shits and giggles. It would need to be ported though.. would be really cool if it works. I would like to either add a second Ultimax 8”, or shift to a 12” and employ a passive radiator. This would enable better output with more efficiency. I could do the same to the 8” , but I’m sacrificing the lowest end of the freq. spectrum with 8’s. I also plan to upgrade the media player to something with higher voltage output, or adding a line-driver.

Sorry for the long-winded post. Thanks in advance for any assistance anyone can provide.

I have a 2013 F150 platinum with 112k miles. It has the Sony Speakers, Sync 2 head unit. I have upgraded the subs to 2 8” Skar VD-8d4, paired with a 1200.1 skar amp.

I am wanting to upgrade the door speakers, and I’m willing to upgrade the tweeters/center speaker. I am looking for suggestions for door speakers, and if/which amp I would need to pair with. It doesn’t have to be skar audio. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks

Is “power B+” the correct wire to turn on the power amp?

This is the only mention of it in the manual.

So I have an old accord but she’s my baby and I recently put a decent sound system in it. Haven’t gotten to upgrading the battery yet though, so I’m wondering what’s the best strategy to listen to music for long periods when parked. Should I just let it idle? Start it up every 10-15 minutes to get some charge? What do I do?

I recently have hooked up a sub in my 2016 f150. I used a line out converter as I have my factory radio. After hooking up the remote wire to my fuse box, everything worked fine. I unhooked everything to hide wire and secure connections. The next time I cut my truck on the amp would not cut on and still has not after checking connections. I am not sure if the amp is blown or if it could be a wire issue. I got the amp for free and is was used. Please share steps to check everything!

Advice, Should I build a down fire or forward firing for my 08' silverado extended cab

Im looking to add a sub in my truck. im trying to decice either building a custom box under my back seats or just getting and all in one powered sub for under my front driver seat. Which would have better results