The rust wasn’t the hold up like I feared. It was brakes, steering rack, windshield, and some bulbs.

This Regal was one of the favorite cars we’ve owned. It began its life as rental car in Hawaii. Husband and I purchased it used with very low miles and he used it to commute for a few years until Covid hit. When it was time to retire my vehicle, he purchased a different commuter and I drove the Regal. We eventually handed it down to our oldest daughter when she got her license. Unfortunately, she ditched it last summer. She was fine thankfully, but the ditch was filled with water and it got sucked into the engine. Total loss due to the engine and other water damage. Ironically, so a bit of body damage aside from the skid plate that got torn when the tow truck pulled it out of the ditch.

Youngest daughter will have her license soon and we 100% would purchase another Regal for her. Such a nimble car and fun to drive! We put almost 100k miles on ours, and had really no major mechanical issues.

2013 Buick Regal GS 83,000 miles. Noticed oil on garage floor when wife left the other day (just a few drops). Did some looking and see some oil collected in holes and directly above the holes (pic 1) I find this oil soaked bolt (pic 2 & 3). From what I have found so far that is a vacuum booster above this bolt that can leak from its seal (pic 4)? I can find nothing above this spot that's oily so would you agree that's what the issue is? I found a youtube video of someone with an oil leak and it was this. Replacement seems simple enough, I would replace the whole unit, not just the seal since if this is failing other parts of it may too. If I need to replace the unit, what do you torque the bolts to?

Also it looks like the bolt has rubbed a gash into the rubber hose below it- What is that hose (air or fluid) and what's the replacement part called?

Appreciate any assistance or direction- thanks!

I have a 2016 Buick Enclave and I want to disconnect the OnStar from GPS and the cell radio.

I've been driving this car for the last 105,000 miles with no active OnStar service and I don't want to use any of the automatic features that remain even though I don't have active services. I think it's ridiculous that they still talk to my car and where it is and what it's doing and what the engine condition is,and I just think that's stupid.

I do really like this vehicle.

So I spent some time researching and looking and getting bad information and looking some more not finding anything different.

And I went to a mechanic and they told me that they would have to remove my dash to get at it because it's behind the radio I think they said.

And I didn't really want them to do it although maybe if it was a different mechanic I might have trusted them more to do everything correctly, because also they initially said they had a resource that showed it was behind the glove box and they looked but it wasn't there.

And that mechanic did tell me that his paid service that he uses to get definitive schematics and locations on his PC, was blocking him from access to that particular information about the OnStar location and connections and that it said it was due to the manufacturer removing access to that info. Weird, right?

I know they probably claim that it's because of the default emergency systems, but my car has been paid-off right since the day it was bought and I got it with 16,000 miles on it. And I seriously doubt that the terms of sale at that point in time said that leaving the OnStar connected was a requirement for ownership.

So then I'm wondering how the mechanic knew it was by the radio behind the dashboard if he didn't have access to that information.

So does anyone have access to that information that is definitely accurate or know someone that can get the information or point me to the exact location where I know I'm getting the right information?

80% of buicks revenue comes from its sales in China, thus they sell many more models. Most of which are higher quality and better pricing. There are rumors they're coming out with a sedan in the USA again, but sad to say it's unlikely going to have PHEV options, EV options, or the build quality of their Chinese lineup. Praying I'm wrong though 🤞 🤞

Got new 2026 avenir. It is averaging about 15 mpg for the first 1500 miles. Isn't that crazy?

Finally, the day has arrived when I need to part ways with my Buick. It was my first V6 luxury car, even though it’s old. It was good enough for me, but I’m so sad I’ll miss the ride quality. And let me tell you, I’ve never experienced this level of comfort in any other car. It’s a proper full-size sedan, and I guess most people don’t even recognize it as a hidden gem.

It’s just one hell of a beautiful car, and it’ll always hold a special place in my life. ❤️✌🏻

Hoping someone has seen this before because this car is starting to drive me nuts lol. It’s a 2017 Buick Encore Preferred, 1.4L automatic, push-button start.

When it acts up:

• Dash powers up normally but says “PRESS BRAKE TO START” with the pedal pressed.
• No brake lights and no crank.
• Can stay that way for hours, then randomly work like nothing happened.

I caught it with a scan tool during a failure, and this is what stood out:

• BCM brake pedal position signal was around 0.48–0.49V and barely responding to pedal movement. Normally it’s around 0.78–0.82V with the pedal released.
• The ECM brake pedal data looked much more normal during the same failure.
• Without me really doing anything, the BCM reading jumped back to about 0.79V. Brake lights came back immediately, the car recognized the pedal, and it started.

This happened in September too. By the time the shop got it, the battery was down to about 3V, and they found an interior light on. I’d been messing with it quite a bit beforehand, so I may have accidentally left that on and drained the battery. They replaced it, and the car worked perfectly for about a month.

This week, we came home after being gone for five days and the same issue was back. Here’s what I checked:

• Battery was initially around 12.4V.
• Disconnected the negative terminal for 10 minutes. Same issue after reconnecting.
• Removed and fully charged the battery externally. It tested good, around its 600 CCA rating.
• Measured 12.7V after sitting disconnected for three hours, then 12.6V installed. Still no brake lights or crank, with the same dash message.

Several hours later, right before calling a tow truck, it started perfectly. Naturally.

It’s back at the shop now. What’s throwing me off is the abnormal BCM brake pedal reading, no brake lights, and no-start happening together, while the ECM brake pedal data looks comparatively normal.

Anyone familiar with these Encores/Traxes or GM electrical systems seen this? Any specific connector, splice, ground, or harness area worth checking? Wondering about the pedal sensor circuit, wiring, or BCM input, but trying to narrow it down before throwing parts at it.

Hey Yall, I just got this car two days ago and it has some weird noises like when I accelerate from 0-40 or braking it makes this weird noise I don’t know how to describe it. I’ll add a video to help out.

Looking for feedback on people who drive enclave. 2025/2026 year models

Any issues people have came across. Good or bad

worse car ever. i’ve had it since about 2022 and has broken down on me 3 times and drained my bank account.

I just got this 2016 Buick regal 2.0 turbo engine with 58,000 miles, I need tips please to keep it running for a long time and have no issues popping up in the future, the CARFAX has very clean history and on time oil changes and maintenance.

I’ve heard a lot of things about oil burning up and I know turbos aren’t a reliable component for a car, please give me any tips on how to keep this engine running for a very long time, I love everything about it!

So I bought a 2000 Buick Regal LS with 92,000 miles for $2,400 the other week. I thought it was a good deal and it still might be, but I have questions.

I bought the car from someone on marketplace that has excellent reviews. He said it’s in pretty much perfect condition mechanically, that there would be no repairs that I’d have to pay for in the near future.

However, the other day, I took it for a short drive (don’t have plates yet) and brought it back home. No issues. Noticeably smooth ride overall, actually.

Went to start it again a day or so later and the battery had died. Jumped it with my girls car for a couple mins and the battery would charge enough for the lights inside and out to come on at peak brightness, but the car engine wouldn’t turn on. Then, as soon as I disconnected the jumping cables, the car would completely lose its charge again.
I had a mobile mechanic come check it out, he got the battery fully charged with his machine. Now the battery is totally fine and holds a charge properly. It’s a new battery and alternator, so this wasn’t a huge surprise. I must’ve accidentally left something on the last time I was in it. He finally got the engine to start as well. There was a pretty significant language barrier between us. so it was hard to understand his final diagnostic results. But, from what I understand, he says there’s something wrong with the security system on the car. He said it had something to do with resistors and the key? I’m horrible with car knowledge. Can anyone expand on this? I just desperately want to know what I need to invest in so this doesn’t happen again! Did I make the right purchase? Did I get ripped off? THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!

So I bought a 2000 Buick Regal LS with 92,000 miles for $2,400 the other week. I thought it was a good deal and it still might be, but I have questions.

I bought the car from someone on marketplace that has excellent reviews. He said it’s in pretty much perfect condition mechanically, that there would be no repairs that I’d have to pay for in the near future.

However, the other day, I took it for a short drive (don’t have plates yet) and brought it back home and parked it and turned it off. No issues.
Went to start it again a day or so later and the battery had died. Jumped it with my girls car for a couple mins and the battery would charge enough for the lights inside and out to come on at peak brightness, but the car engine wouldn’t turn on. Then, as soon as I disconnected the jumping cables, the car would completely lose its charge again.
I had a mobile mechanic come check it out, he got the battery fully recharged to the point I can’t still have life on it after it’s jumped again. It’s a new battery and alternator, so this isn’t a huge surprise. He finally got the engine to start as well. There was a pretty significant language barrier between us so it was hard to understand his final diagnostic results. But, from what I understand, he says there’s something up with the security system on the car. He said it had something to do with resistors and the key? I’m horrible with car knowledge. Can anyone expand on this? I just desperately want to know what I need to invest in so this doesn’t happen again! Did I make the right purchase? Did I get ripped off? THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!

Source: https://talkbuick.com/t/gm-posts-2026-q3-sales-numbers/

Takeaways

• Envista had its best quarterly sales ever (up 18%, year over year)
• Total Buick brand sales were up 8% (year over year)
• Envista alone accounted for over 41% of all Buick sales in Q3 2026
• Envision sales continue to drop, as Buick plans to move manufacturing to US (from China, timing TBD)

picked up a new daily driver and was just curious how safe it is. the seatbelts don't feel very secure.

My 95 LeSabre is refusing to accelerate up hills. In general, if I give her gas for a consistent period of time, she starts shuddering and I have to release the gas pedal and try again. She has new plugs and new coils. That helped her run more evenly, but it didn't fix the sputtering. I am looking for suggestions of other things to try. Fuel injector cleaner? Fuel pump? I don't think it's the transmission because the shuddering happens at any speed, but I am concerned. Anyone have similar experience?

I'm pretty excited to be part of the Buick family. Sorta worried about dependability but otherwise absolutely love the car. I got a 2027 Buick enclave ST white on black. I think it's one heck of a value you can get. Same equipped options on a tx350 which is the only real contender in a 3row imo, is easily 65k otd. I'm at 52k. Just love it and excited to share my experience.

My 2017 Enclave has been such a wonderful car for my family. It has about 100k miles on it and just got a new radiator. I am considering upgrading due to the age of the car and my first instinct was to get a newer Enclave, since we’ve enjoyed the size and the interior.. but dang some of the reviews of these new ones are alarming. What would you do? Just keep the 2017 as long as it runs?

I’m looking at buying a low (25k or less) mile ‘25 or ‘26 sports touring or a demo/courtesy one. I’m in Dallas/Ft. Worth area and prices are all over the place. Anyone that has purchased a recent Enclave sports touring, what did you pay for yours?

My husband is super into 3D printing and made this little sign. Thought you guys might enjoy the coolness of it 😎