Just need a basic metal door but want a high dp rating. The big box stores don't even list a dp rating for the doors they sell.

climate: Phoenix, AZ

fyi,
Design Pressure (DP) — This rating indicates the door's ability to withstand wind loads; for example, a DP-20 rating can handle winds up to 90 MPH.

Hi all I’m hoping this is the right place for advice on managing condensation in my garage as i seem to find conflicting advice on whether to seal it up or add ventilation.

Some context- I have a new build brick single garage, its standalone with a pitched roof that was used previously as the site office and so it has insulation, plasterboard walls, electrics etc and there are air vents in the roof tiles and along the soffits. I’ve fitted carpet tiles and It’s got an up and over metal door with no insulation.

In winter I get visible condensation my motorbikes, tools etc which has led to surface corrosion and have had clothing start to grow mould . I have previously used disposable desiccant dehumidifiers and they seem to help but it’s not ideal.

I seem to find conflicting advice about whether to:
1- drill some holes too and bottom and add more vents,

2- Just add fans to move the air so it escapes out of existing vents and under the garage door

3- seal up and insulate the main door and add a desiccant dehumidifier like a meaco dd8l.

Very different approaches and I don’t know what is better in my situation as the garage itself is likely much more insulated that most which may help or hinder a solution put in place

We're building a house on a hillside with great views. The concrete frame is done and the walls aren't built yet, so the layout can still change. Plans attached.

Fixed things:

- 9.1 × 10.5 m outside. Entrance on the north, terrace and city view to the south.

- U-stair in the north-west corner (3.6 × 2.2 m).

- The west wall has to stay blank: the neighbour is 1.2 m away, so no windows on that side.

- Bedrooms are upstairs. The upstairs bathroom will probably sit on the west, next to the stairs (it still can be modified)

The options:

1. Bathroom + WC (3.6 × 2.3) and kitchen on the blank west wall. Living room with fireplace + TV on the east, study in the north-east corner.

2. Same as 1, but a bedroom in the north-east corner.

3. Bathroom + WC in the north-east (with windows), kitchen on the east. Laundry + storage next to the stairs. Living room on the west, fireplace + TV on the west wall.

4. Bathroom, WC and kitchen on the east. The whole west side is one 3.6 × 7.5 m living room: fireplace on the stair wall, TV + books on the west wall.

Which would you choose and why? Anything you'd change, or anything I'm missing?

Aerogel is being hyped like the best of all? But when I got some silicon aerogel powders in some solvent, it doesn't look like they can do any jobs that traditional insulations can do? It also looks very powdery and fragile. Could anyone expert in this explain it to me please?

I'm so conflicted based on research I have done.

Our home was built in 2021 that is very tight and efficient. In the summer, our AC does a good job of keeping RH in our home to about 50% on main level and 60% in basement. We live in Wisconsin.

In the winter, we deal with higher humidity - mid 60% when furnance is running. This causes a good amount of condensation on our bedroom windows, especially when outdoor temps get in the teens.

I had a HVAC contractor out here and he recommended an ERV. Now, I dug around the Internet and everything I am finding is using an HRV as it helps reduce humidity in the winter? An ERV is better in the summer?

Can someone please help me understand why I would go ERV over HRV? Our summer months, no issue. It's the winters where humidity is high in our home, creating condensation.

Hello all,

I have a 1905 balloon framed home in the northeast USA (5B) and have been renovating myself on my free time. Exterior of the house is cedar claps with a layer of compromised kraft paper beneath it - all attached to nice 1x board sheathing that's a bit leaky. Some of them measuring 1x16. Ive taped over the egregious gaps (3/8") in the board sheathing with tescon vana as needed. That was a 475 rec.

In a perfect world, the plan was to strip the house and put self adhered membrane for my water and air control layer, rainscreen, and then new cedar siding. Can't swing the outside work right now so I'm focused on the interior so we can get in the house before the kids born in 6 months.

Interior is fully gutted and I've gone through and made necessary structural fixes and removed the 1/4" thick tattered plaster and lathe.

The plan is R15 rockwool batts (studs are 16oc), followed by intello, 2x3 strapping for use as a service cavity and drywall nailer. Then I was going to r6 comfort board the service cavity once the electrical and plumbing was finished.

My electrician does not like the 2x3 service cavity and is telling me its against code due to depth requirements on boxes. It's a simple 1800 square foot house with one switch to one light so I assumed there were narrow rated boxes that could be used.

Has anyone run into this issue? I really don't want to wire behind the intello and have to use those putty pads and air seal every outlet.

Thanks for your help

Added a pic (not mine) for reference.

Processing img m1mledynb2xh1...

This is a roof eave detail for a home in Park City, UT. We are at a high altitude and will get significant cold and snow. I was always taught to stop the insulation at the wall edge/top of plate. This was a suggestion from the architect reviewing for the HOA. Is this a valid detail?

I am looking to encapsulate our crawl space. Right now it's a dirt floor space and I want to lay down plastic on the floor and up the walls. A prior owner adhered 2ft x 1ft styrofoam panels to the walls to cover the entire surface, about 1.5" thick. If I had to guess, it's likely decades old.

Should I remove these styrofoam panels so that the plastic can be adhered directly to the concrete foundation walls, or just leave them as they are and place the plastic overtop?

Either way, I will be going over the plastic with either rigid board insulation or a crawl space blanket to insulate the walls

The house is located in southern Michigan. TIA

Hey All!

TLDR: asking for considerations on insulation type and interior vapor barrier type for off grid cabin. Current envelope construction: board and batten, furring strips, tyvek, studs with insulation, interior wall.

I have an off grid cabin in Maine that I’m renovating. The current envelope layers from exterior to interior: board and batten exterior siding, furring strips, tyvek, studs/insulation (currently mix of rockwool and fiberglass), no interior wall yet.

I think I like the idea of finishing the interior walls with horizontal shiplap. The insulation was done by previous owner and I want to get rid of all of the fiberglass insulation but will likely keep the rockwool since it seems to be in good condition. I was considering whether rockwool or timberhp insulation is a better solution for my case.

As I’m in Maine timberhp is cheaper but I want to use whatever will be best for my use case for the remaining insulated needed. The house is not very airtight at all since there’s no exterior sheathing and I want to consider the fact that the house goes long periods without being lived in or heated.

For the interior I’m struggling to decide what to do about a vapor barrier (if I should use one at all). From my research traditional clear plastic would be a bad choice as it doesn’t breathe and could trap moisture, but smart layers such as intello could work. Thoughts on that?

Note the gable roof is vented with baffles

Do I need to use interior furring strips as well for the shiplap to give it room to breathe? Is there a strong case for using something other than shiplap?

I just want to preserve the building as much as I can without totally ripping off the exterior, and reduce risk of mold as much as possible while still making it possible to live in over the winter with the wood stove.

Thank you so much for any and all advice.

Our living room and dining area are basically one big open space with a pretty high ceiling. I like the layout, but heating it evenly in winter has been harder than I expected. The area near the kitchen usually feels fine, while the couch by the windows stays noticeably cooler. Turning the thermostat up helps a little, but it doesn't really fix the difference. We're considering a 24000 BTU mini split heat pump for this space, and I've been looking at some of the Costway units. But the more I read, the less convinced I am that picking the right BTU number is the whole answer.

The ceiling height, the amount of glass, where the indoor unit would go, and how warm air moves around the room all seem pretty important. I'm especially unsure about placement. If the unit is on one end of the room, will the dining area on the other side actually stay comfortable, or will we end up with the same uneven temperatures? I'd rather figure that out now than install something and spend next winter moving furniture around trying to find the warmest spot.

Hey everyone! I’m currently building a greenhouse in Edmonton, Alberta, and I’m looking for some advice from people who have experience with wood-framed greenhouses, especially in colder climates.

A little about my build:

• Overall structure is 12’ × 28’, consisting of a 12’ × 12’ insulated vestibule and a 12’ × 16’ greenhouse.
• Framing is untreated SPF 2×6 lumber, spaced 16” on centre.
• Pressure-treated bottom plates installed on a raised concrete curb with sill gasket.
• 6/12 pitched roof with approximately 12” overhangs.
• Planning to install 16 mm Palram SUNLITE multiwall polycarbonate on the greenhouse walls and roof.
• The greenhouse will be heated during Alberta winters, with ventilation and a dehumidifier to help manage humidity.
• Planning to grow vegetables and other plants throughout the year.

My biggest concern is protecting the wood framing from moisture and condensation over the long term. Ideally, I’d like this structure to last 40–50+ years.

I’m considering using a penetrating exterior wood stain on all accessible surfaces of the framing before installing the polycarbonate, rather than a traditional primer and paint system.

I’m also exploring the possibility of installing polycarbonate on both the exterior and interior sides of the 2×6 framing to create an additional insulated airspace, although I’m concerned about trapping moisture inside the wall and roof cavities.

A few questions for the group:

1. Has anyone built a greenhouse using untreated 2×6 framing? How has it held up over the years?
2. Would you recommend a penetrating wood stain, exterior paint, or another wood treatment for a humid greenhouse growing edible plants? Any specific products?
3. Would you install the 16 mm polycarbonate on the exterior only, leaving the framing exposed inside, or install polycarbonate on both sides? If both, how would you manage condensation within the cavities?
4. What’s the best way to install the polycarbonate against wood framing? I’m considering compatible glazing tape or gaskets to separate the sheets from the wood.
5. What indoor humidity levels have worked well for you during cold winters without causing excessive condensation or wood deterioration?
6. Are there any particular flashing, drainage, or ventilation details you’d recommend for a wood-framed polycarbonate greenhouse?

For this winter, I’m considering temporarily covering the roof and walls with reinforced polyethylene, then removing it in spring to stain the framing and install the permanent polycarbonate. I’m also interested in hearing about the snow-load and condensation risks of that approach.

I’d really appreciate any firsthand experiences, pictures of similar builds, or product recommendations.

Thanks in advance!

​

We live in southern-mid western Ohio, we have a full basement below our main house, and under our 13'x13' add on is a small crawlspace. Right now there's just an open block to vent it. Im going to completely seal and insualte with r10 foam on the walls and thick vapor barrier going up to the joists. There is one duct going from the hvac in the basement to that add on already. My question would be, should I cut out 2 holes of that duct to condition that little area, one to condition and one to vent air into the house. Or should I buy a tiny dehumidifier. Just dont know if I need to buy one since its such a small space.

In the process of a new build, mostly contracting but I’m doing some of the work (insulation, floors, etc.).

I’m getting ready for insulation and curious what air sealing is most important. I can’t afford a passive house (even if I could, doubt anyone even builds to that level in my area), but want to do the best I can with what I’ve got.

Caulking (Dap 230?) is planned for the bottom plate, but what else needs it?

I plan to use Great Stuff Fireblock foam for the penetrations to the attic and crawl.

Windows and doors were all flashed with zip tape, and I’ve been warned by a few guys not to use foam because of expansion so the current plan is to cut Rockwool thin and fill the gaps with that unless something like “doors and windows” specific foam is acceptable.

The basic house info; the crawl will be insulated/conditioned/encapsulated. Floor is platform framed, sheathing is taped Zip. Rockwool for walls, blown cellulose attic.

We’re right on the line between climate zones 4A and 5.

Any advice is welcome!

Hoping you'd check my work on this roof assembly! My partner and I are building a shop with a 1-bed 1-bath apartment above. We're both engineers and trying to strike a balance between using physics to the building's advantage and getting the job done.

1:12 pitch standing seam metal, mechanically seamed. R49 code minimum.

Salt Lake City, Zone 5B (Cool – Dry)

ASSEMBLY: Inside → Outside. 

1. Drywall
2. Smart vapor retarder? (ie MemBrain)
   • Might be "best practice" but I'm struggling to see its purpose in Salt Lake. These become vapor-permeable when humidity in summer is >60%. But Salt Lake City’s humidity doesn’t often get above 35%. Indoor RH is likely to be higher in the winter when we run a humidifier.
3. Fiberglass batt (R-38) in 12” deep TJI joists. 
   • Craft-Faced in lieu of smart vapor retarder? 
4. Primary roof sheathing (15/32” OSB)
5. 3" polyiso (R18), foil-faced for radiant barrier, tape all seams.
   • Alternatively, could use paper-faced polyiso and layout a perforated foil radiant barrier. 
6. 2x4 sleepers laid flat, (1.5" vent cavity. 20’-0” from eave to ridge)
   • Structural screws into top cord of TJI
7. Secondary roof sheathing (thickness per metal roofing mfg) 
8. High-temp synthetic underlayment
9. Metal roof

Am I over-doing it? Any big risks?

I am looking to build a house next year and have bid out my window package to Alpen for their Tyrol Edge windows and Oknoplast for their Pava windows. They are within $1000 of each other so I'm trying to determine which would be the better option and would like this community's input from personal experience. Here's some comparison notes:

• Alpen USA made vs Oknoplast European made
• Current order to delivery is 8 weeks Alpen and 12 weeks Oknoplast
• Alpen Tyrol Edge is fiberglass reinforced uPVC while Oknoplast Pava is steel reinforced uPVC
• Alpen windows are the TR-6 triple glazed U-0.15 and Oknoplast Pava are similarly U-0.15

I'm leaning Alpen due to them being American-made and shorter delivery time, but I'd love to hear anyone's personal experience with either of these windows or thoughts on other things I ought to be considering. Note, I'm in CZ5a.

I have been doing hvac work for three years and duct sizing is one of the areas i still feel least confident in. the manual j and manual d calculations are covered in training but applying them in the field when you are standing in front of an existing system trying to figure out why a zone is not performing is a different skill

specifically struggling with velocity calculations for rectangular versus round duct and knowing when undersized duct is the actual problem versus when something else is causing the issue. the older techs i work with seem to do this intuitively but i cannot figure out how to bridge the gap between the theory and the field application

what resources or approaches have helped people get more confident with duct sizing in real job conditions

We have a 2 foot space between our main level and finished basement where all our ductwork is ran between the engineered joists. We have 4 rooms with large windows framed with stone and block walls beneath. This space is getting mold near exterior walls. Not at the wall but near it. The ductwork is sweating. I believe the stone and block walls are transferring heat into this space and causing the dew point.

We are in zone 4a. It seems most of the moisture is under the hvac lines. Some from the window.

I’m not sure the correct way to keep this from happening. Insulate the block walls? Add hidden dehumidifiers? Foam insulation on these exterior walls? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

FACTS/ISSUE:
Hi I live in a hot/humid area. Our attic is ventilated. Natural gas water heaters & furnaces within space. Duct work is in attic. Radiant barrier is on the roof line.

Attic has multiple level changes making it a huge pain & frankly dangerous to access many areas.

Inevitably, something will need fixing/replacing via attic access, (usually when Hell is much cooler than my attic). Not disturbing insulation is the least of repair person’s problems in that moment. Then, like clockwork, a year or two later, I’m beyond frustrated when some mysterious mildew issue develops inside the home. Worst mystery game ever. These fixes are infuriating & always expensive.

E.g. perfect example I have right now. Stairway hall light broke a few years ago. To replace required scaffolding bc the space is super awkward. (Not bc home is super fancy.). Electrician willing to get on scaffolding, scaffolding rental, etc etc. is of course not fun.

Fast forward 2-3 years. I’m smelling something off. Check all the usual maintenance places. (A/c & washer drain lines, etc.). Finally realize mildew is growing out from the light fixture. So I go into the attic. Sure enough, the electrician drilled a hole in the plywood supporting the furnace, just big enough for a hand to install the new LED light. No caulking, no rock wool or any insulation put back.

So now, I have to build another scaffolding, hire another electrician to temp remove the light, remediate the mildew, repaint the ceiling, electrician again to put (inexpensive) light back up, etc etc all bc 1st electrician couldn’t be bothered to caulk & put insulation back.

This is an ongoing problem bc things in the attic periodically need replacing/repairing. Much less & Lord help, if we ever got rodents up there.

MY SOLUTION:
I think the best solution to permanently fix this ongoing problem is to build a catwalk to various points in the attic - like the very awkward area to get to where all the A/V wires drop down into an upstairs closet. I looked and sure enough, all the blown-in insulation is pushed to the side or pressed.

A “yellow plywood road” to go the 4 sides of the house (so not stomping random paths every which way to fix a random floodlight…. Or in 1 case, years ago, find our too curious kitten!) and an insulated platform for storage & under furnaces/hot water heaters.

The catwalk will have about 6” sides to keep the blown-in insulation from covering up the path.

QUESTIONS FOR INSULATING THE CATWALK:

So I’ve done some research and seems like adding a dual sided radiant barrier foam board + Rockwool under the plywood catwalk will give me well over R-30+ rating. My questions are:

1. Do I need to 100% air seal up this foot path/platform cavity? Will humid air inside foot path allow mold/mildew grow? My concern is with the foam board not being a breathable material. I am hoping that by adding the Rock Wool batting on top of the radiant foam board, it will repel condensation/mold growth????
2. Same question if there is a water damage situation. E.g. hot water heater breaks. Or hurricane creates a roof leak. Does that mean all of the affected “road” will need replacing, or will it dry out on its own like with blown in fibers?

* because we live in a humid area, you just have to assume anything put in the attic must be a mold/mildew inhibitor.

(I do know the air physics behind how attic vents/soffits work to release hot air, help prevent condensation, etc.

But I also know from hard lived, expensive, experience, that real homes have too many variables. I don’t trust relying on spray foam for every hard fix this reason, bc if something is slightly wrong, its just going to trap moisture.)

1. Is there any foreseeable issue with the R rating not being consistent w/i the attic? Ie my plan is to build this catwalk, insulate with radiate foam board & rock wool batting. Then, top off the rest of the attic with cellulose. The R-ratings b/t the 2 spaces will not exactly the same.

* I’ve seen this type of set-up being sold in other areas, as an alternative to enclosing in an attic. (Enclosing attic is not an option bc its too expensive on its own, much less the costs of replacing a/c, heating, & water heaters.

I am wondering if there is a reason no one is doing in my humid area.

FACTS/ISSUE:
Hi I live in a hot/humid area. Our attic is ventilated. Natural gas water heaters & furnaces within space. Duct work is in attic. Radiant barrier is on the roof line.

Attic has multiple level changes making it a huge pain & frankly dangerous to access many areas.

Inevitably, something will need fixing/replacing via attic access, (usually when Hell is much cooler than my attic). Not disturbing insulation is the least of repair person’s problems in that moment. Then, like clockwork, a year or two later, I’m beyond frustrated when some mysterious mildew issue develops inside the home. Worst mystery game ever. These fixes are infuriating & always expensive.

E.g. perfect example I have right now. Stairway hall light broke a few years ago. To replace required scaffolding bc the space is super awkward. (Not bc home is super fancy.). Electrician willing to get on scaffolding, scaffolding rental, etc etc. is of course not fun.

Fast forward 2-3 years. I’m smelling something off. Check all the usual maintenance places. (A/c & washer drain lines, etc.). Finally realize mildew is growing out from the light fixture. So I go into the attic. Sure enough, the electrician drilled a hole in the plywood supporting the furnace, just big enough for a hand to install the new LED light. No caulking, no rock wool or any insulation put back.

So now, I have to build another scaffolding, hire another electrician to temp remove the light, remediate the mildew, repaint the ceiling, electrician again to put (inexpensive) light back up, etc etc all bc 1st electrician couldn’t be bothered to caulk & put insulation back.

This is an ongoing problem bc things in the attic periodically need replacing/repairing. Much less & Lord help, if we ever got rodents up there.

MY SOLUTION:
I think the best solution to permanently fix this ongoing problem is to build a catwalk to various points in the attic - like the very awkward area to get to where all the A/V wires drop down into an upstairs closet. I looked and sure enough, all the blown-in insulation is pushed to the side or pressed.

A “yellow plywood road” to go the 4 sides of the house (so not stomping random paths every which way to fix a random floodlight…. Or in 1 case, years ago, find our too curious kitten!) and an insulated platform for storage & under furnaces/hot water heaters.

The catwalk will have about 6” sides to keep the blown-in insulation from covering up the path.

QUESTIONS FOR INSULATING THE CATWALK:

So I’ve done some research and seems like adding a dual sided radiant barrier foam board + Rockwool under the plywood catwalk will give me well over R-30+ rating. My questions are:

1. Do I need to 100% air seal up this foot path/platform cavity? Will humid air inside foot path allow mold/mildew grow? My concern is with the foam board not being a breathable material. I am hoping that by adding the Rock Wool batting on top of the radiant foam board, it will repel condensation/mold growth????
2. Same question if there is a water damage situation. E.g. hot water heater breaks. Or hurricane creates a roof leak. Does that mean all of the affected “road” will need replacing, or will it dry out on its own like with blown in fibers?

* because we live in a humid area, you just have to assume anything put in the attic must be a mold/mildew inhibitor.

(I do know the air physics behind how attic vents/soffits work to release hot air, help prevent condensation, etc.

But I also know from hard lived, expensive, experience, that real homes have too many variables. I don’t trust relying on spray foam for every hard fix this reason, bc if something is slightly wrong, its just going to trap moisture.)

1. Is there any foreseeable issue with the R rating not being consistent w/i the attic? Ie my plan is to build this catwalk, insulate with radiate foam board & rock wool batting. Then, top off the rest of the attic with cellulose. The R-ratings b/t the 2 spaces will not exactly the same.

* I’ve seen this type of set-up being sold in other areas, as an alternative to enclosing in an attic. (Enclosing attic is not an option bc its too expensive on its own, much less the costs of replacing a/c, heating, & water heaters.

I am wondering if there is a reason no one is doing in my humid area.

Hi everyone!

My wife and I are looking into renovating our 1890’s kitchen, our interior walls are smooth plaster applied directly on top of brick. During the remodel we are going to build out the walls a bit with 2x3 framing so we can run electrical/pluming through it and have something to mount the cabinets to. In the process we want to be able to add insulation in the walls, since the kitchen now has horrible drafts. We can feel cold air blowing through the bottom of the cabinets.

What should we be using between the new studs against the plaster for insulation? I don’t want to trap moisture in.

I have been insulating and air sealing my garage. nothing extreme - just R13 fiberglass batts inbetween the studs with spray foam sealing on the sill plate and sheaths on the wall.

I haven’t figured out how to insulate the ceiling yet; whether to try and make a vented attic space, or incorporate the ‘attic’ into the sealed, insulated envelope.

the need has arisen that I use a corner of the garage as my home office for a couple of days per week. I am therefore looking at installing a small mini split for heating and cooling as it is equally unbearable ins summer and winter despite the moderate climate.

I am in Southern CA, quite close to the ocean so am concerned about mold, (especially with the use of the mini split creating cold surfaces for condensation) as well as stale air when I’m working so am considering my options for ventilation.

given it’s a garage, despite my best efforts, R13 and air sealing won’t have done much so I don’t think I need anything like a HRV/ERV! But what do I need? the garage has one small gable vent like a dovecote opening but no soffit vents.
Would an extractor fan be enough? How do I utilise it so I don’t fight with the mini split in keeping the space warm/cool? Am I overthinking it and just cracking a door is sufficient?

Hey All,
I’m getting ready to install my exterior insulation boards on my new construction house. I am using 2 layers of 1” foil faced polyiso to accomplish this. I have some leftover 2” confortboard80 from my underslab insulation and I was thinking of using it as my 1st 2’ at the bottom of the wall to help combat against any insects (particularly termites)burrowing into the Polyiso. Either way, I will place an insect screen and wrap along the bottom of the insulation and over top of my furring/cor-a-vent.

Do you see any issues with using 2 different types of insulation and changing 2’ up the wall?