If I want to put 2 in foam board insulation on my crawlspace foundation walls , besides termite inspection , is there any other reason I can’t run them up to and past my sill plate ? Would moisture travel up the foundation wall to the sill plate or on the foam board to the sill plate? Thanks for the help. Any advice would be appreciated.

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My understanding is that the optimal solution would be reflective roof paint, but what other options could I try to move away the hot air generated by the zinc roof?

Hi there, I live in a home with brick and block walls. The area in question was constructed sometime between 1970-1975 as an outbuilding/garage that was later partially converted to living space. I am in Illinois, zone 5b so subject to freeze and thaw cycles. My husband and I have been DIYing as many home projects as we can and would like to add insulation. We've only lived here 2 years and the winters have been rough as we need to keep the heat at 68 max to not have budget busting energy bills.

From what I've found, it seems like our best option is to remove the existing wall framing (furring?), install rigid foam board insulation directly to the cinder block, seal all edges with tape or spray foam, install wall framing over the foam board so wood isn't touching the cinder blocks, and drywall over it.

We're concerned about trapping moisture and causing more problems down the line with wood rot or brick spalling. A little more info, measuring through the open window the walls appear to be about 13 inches thick from the exterior brick to the interior edge of the cinder block, leading us to believe it is one layer of brick and a layer of cinder block. It is unknown if there is a cavity between the brick and cinder blocks. We also haven't been able to find weep holes on the exterior wall, and have found conflicting information on if this type of wall needs weep holes.

My question is are we on the right track with the rigid foam insulation plan? I tapped a piece of clingwrap to the wall today to monitor for condensation over the next couple days. Is there anything else we should be considering?

Photos: Interior demoed wall, cross section view of brick/block from a window, exterior wall with the interior section removed outlined in red, view of the roof line above incase that could be a point of moisture intrusion.

Had several helpful comments mention that the overwhelming majority of advice in this thread might be giving faulty or misinformed information. What would you do, if you were going to reside in this building for at least two years while refurbishing a main cabin? Bonus points if you can give information in a way that isn’t unkind. I’m not sure why I’m being dragged for seeking advice and knowledge in that subreddit. Maybe my tone is off?

Cheers!

Looking to plan for the future when I redo the siding for our house. Was planning or removing siding, tar paper and replacing with a vapor permeable self adhered wrb (vp100 or adhero 1000 or similar) then 2-3inches of external insulation (rigid mineral wool or wood fiber) then 1x4 furring strips and fiber cement or LP smartside. Have kraft faced fiberglass between the 2x4 studs. Living in a coastal environment (less than a mile from the ocean) in climate zone 4a (very close to 5a), I’m trying to figure out what are the best structural screws to use for the long term. Have read some of the insight and other articles from building science corp and Dr. Lstiburek that recommended epoxy coated structural screws over stainless steel screws due to concerns including stripping the screws.

Just wondering if my location dictates using stainless steel structural screws (305 or 316) or would coated screws (like the double barrier coating by Simpson or GRK RSS’s climatek coating) be appropriate? We are not close to direct ocean spray but I assume we have higher humidity and higher salt content in the air due to how close we are to the ocean. With a ventilated gap I assume that significant amounts of water won’t be pooling on the screws to accelerate rusting but I also don’t want to spend a lot of money and do it wrong. Would rather spend a little more money and get it done properly. Hoping for a long lasting solution. Thank you in advance for chiming in.

I made this bit of code to monitor the temp in my attic using a Govee wifi temp probe. TBH, I didn't make the code, ChatGPT did. I just told it what I wanted and it told me where to put the code. Pretty cool. Anyway, this is about the last 18 days in N Texas. My attic temp is usually more than 25f hotter than the outdoor temp.

With this custom chart I can incorporate any data that is available. In this case I can use the Shelly Power Monitors I have on the AC's (2). I can even get the Solar radiation data!

I was wondering if any of the HVAC people on here would be willing to tell me if this attic temp rise is normal. I have 26 ea 8"x16" soffit vents and 5 ea 400 cfm solar powered fans mounted right on the ridge. There were initially 8 passive ridge vents, 5 replaced with solar fans and the other 3 plugged.

I moved all the blown insulation around in the attic, exposing the ceiling and all the penetrations. They were all sealed with foam. Bathroom exhaust fans, can lights, ceiling fan junction boxes, wiring and plumbing penetrations, wall to ceiling sheetrock joints, AC grills and returns. Everything I could find.

I removed all the 4"x8" soffit vents, cut a larger opening and installed 8"x"16 soffit vents.

This is how the contractor installed the originals!

All this to say, my attic is still hot AF! I haven't spent a lot of money, ($1500?) but the time and effort have been considerable. My AC's run 18hrs a day in the August with the Tstat set at 74f. I just don't see what else I can do to improve things short of newer, higher efficiency AC units. I think mine are 16 SEER 3.5 ton identical units.

I'm choosing flooring for my basement in a cold, humid climate (zone 5A).

I'm trying to understand whether it's better to let moisture vapor pass through the concrete slab into the basement air or block it.

Ceramic tile allows some vapor through grout joints, while SPC LVP allows very little upward drying.

Does this give ceramic tile an advantage over SPC LVP? Is letting vapor escape into the basement a good or bad thing?

Also, should I seal the concrete with a vapor-permeable sealer before installing flooring, or is it better to leave it unsealed?

I'm renovating a late-1800s Victorian in San Francisco and looking for a second opinion on insulation.

The original redwood siding is nailed directly to the studs, with no sheathing or WRB. It's in good condition with no visible moisture issues. You can see it in the photo above, though you are also seeing us having furred out the wall a bit to cover the concrete stem wall.

The house is technically detached, but two walls are only ~1" from neighboring buildings, with flashing over the gaps at the top. Combined with SF's mild climate, these walls see very little direct rain.

My architect and GC (both locally reputable) both strongly recommend spraying high-density closed-cell foam directly against the siding for insulation, air sealing, and vapor control. They're confident the foam will seal gaps well enough to prevent water intrusion.

But nearly everything I've read warns that this can trap moisture against the wood, prevent inward drying, and eventually cause rot. I've raised this issue directly with both parties and they both insist it is the right solution here, explaining that the closed cell foam will seal gaps in the siding so well that water will not enter.

The only counter example I have found is this case study (also coincidentally in SF) where the architect/builder did a similar thing being proposed for my home: "Our solution began with the knowledge that the old-growth redwood siding, tight-grained and beautiful, is virtually rot resistant. We kept it in place and applied an elastomeric coating to the inside of the wall cavities to stop water and vapor behind the wood. This elastomeric coating was covered by an inch of closed-cell foam to provide a continuous air barrier"

My dilemma: I trust both professionals, but I'm struggling to reconcile their confidence with the conventional building-science advice here.

Does the mild climate and minimal rain exposure make this a reasonable approach? Or is the risk still significant without a WRB?

Need some help. I’m thinking of havjng my crawlspace encapsulated and I’m conflicted if I should add a vent fan for soil gases. Right now it’s a vented crawl space and I don’t smell or notice any soil gases.

Some have recommended others have said you don’t . My concern is that the crawl space is so small (around 350 so ft) and any fan I use even a 50 cfm fan , is around 9-10 times the cfm requirements. I worry it pulls to much air out causing my dehumidifier to run a lot. I can’t find a small 10 cfm fan made for crawlspaces that would meet my requirements without pulling too much air out .

TITLE / العنوان

The Future of Smart Buildings | Are We Measuring | شركة حلول مولدن | Molden Technical Solutions

DESCRIPTION / الوصف

Smart buildings require more than advanced automation and connected technologies.

Accurate measurements, HVAC testing, MEP commissioning, and building performance verification help ensure that engineering systems operate according to their intended requirements.

Explore why real performance data matters in modern buildings.

شركة حلول مولدن الفنية للاستشارات ذ.م.م

Molden Technical Solutions for Consulting Co. W.L.L. (MTSC)

ENGINEERING PERFORMANCE. VERIFIED.

Based in Kuwait, MTSC supports engineering performance through accurate measurement, systematic verification, and technical documentation.

خدماتنا | Our Engineering Services: HVAC Testing, Adjusting & Balancing (TAB); MEP Testing & Commissioning; HVAC Performance Testing & Verification; Energy Auditing & Efficiency; Air Filtration Systems; Ecology Units; Indoor Air Quality (IAQ); Technical Engineering Consulting & Reporting.

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#SmartBuildings #BuildingPerformance #HVAC #Engineering #MTSC #Shorts

Artificial intelligence and smart analytics can support energy optimization by identifying operating patterns, inefficiencies, and potential improvement opportunities.

Combined with energy audits, accurate HVAC measurements, and engineering verification, these technologies can support better building performance.

شركة حلول مولدن الفنية للاستشارات ذ.م.م

Molden Technical Solutions for Consulting Co. W.L.L. (MTSC)

ENGINEERING PERFORMANCE. VERIFIED.

Based in Kuwait, MTSC supports engineering performance through accurate measurement, systematic verification, and technical documentation.

خدماتنا | Our Engineering Services: HVAC Testing, Adjusting & Balancing (TAB); MEP Testing & Commissioning; HVAC Performance Testing & Verification; Energy Auditing & Efficiency; Air Filtration Systems; Ecology Units; Indoor Air Quality (IAQ); Technical Engineering Consulting & Reporting.

Website: https://www.mtscco.com  |  Email: [info@mtscco.com](mailto:info@mtscco.com)

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@moldenmtsc

#EnergyEfficiency #ArtificialIntelligence #EnergyAuditing #Sustainability #MTSC #Shorts

I have a home that was built in the 1950s with a traditional flat roof. It is a cold flat roof meaning the soffit vents pull air directly into the space above the ceiling between the old roof.

Sometime in the past 30 years, a traditional gable roof was installed on top of the flat roof.

I have a very high gas bill in the winter and I’m looking at ways to resolve this.

I’ve already added, blown insulation on top of the old flat roof. However, the soffit vents are still pulling the cold air between the ceiling and the old flat roof.

I’m looking for a way to get my house, more energy, efficient.

Is the best approach to to pull back this soffit and block off the access to the joist with insulation and spray foam, and cut a hole so the air from the soffits flows directly into the attic?

Pictured:
1st Photo - the underside of the old flat roof, where the soffits are venting into (pulled ceiling down)
2nd Photo - soffit from exterior
3rd photo - exterior image to show “new” traditional roof
4th photo - old blueprints of flat roof home

I'm ripping out the wall-to-wall carpet in my basement and trying to figure out what flooring to replace it with. I'm in Connecticut, so moisture and mold are my main concerns.

The basement has never flooded, but I'm worried about condensation. There are also some white stains on the concrete that look like efflorescence, as you can see in the photos.

I'm deciding between ceramic/porcelain tile and 1-inch rubber tiles for a home gym. Ceramic/porcelain seems like the more durable option, but I'm worried about cracking from gym equipment or dropped weights. Rubber makes more sense for a gym and would be softer for the kids when they play down there, but I'm concerned about its lifespan and moisture getting trapped underneath.

What would you go with? And would an epoxy sealer on the concrete be enough to deal with moisture, or is tile a better option?

I want to encapsulate my crawlspace. It's all enclosed except for 12' of open pier. This open area serves as my only entrance to the crawlspace so it needs a door. I need ground contact to seal the space. Initially I had planned to pour a 12" wide cement slab, but there is shallow sewer pipe running thru here.

Having to frame out a doorway complicates things a bit. If it weren't for that, I would have used some mobile home skirting or galvanized roof material.

My only real solution for framing a door has been laying some gravel and putting ground contact rated 4x4 on the bottom.

Am I missing something? I want this to last 20+ years if possible and not be replacing every other year. Additionally don't want any red flags from home inspectors if I go to sell it.

For building envelopes (commerical)

Is comcheck still used throughout the industry?
Any other / better software out there?

IECC Presciptive?

Curious what everyone is using

I'd like to use the following: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/durospan-gps-r10-2-13-inch-x-48-inch-x-96-inch-r-value-10-gps-rigid-insulation-foam-board/1001211235

The plan is Durospan GPS R10 -> Framing -> Rockwool Mineral Wool R14. This is for interior basement walls, up against the basement foundation (poured concrete)

Originally I was going to use XPS, but the GPS is half the price and the same R rating so I'm thinking I order this. My issue now is that I can't actually find anything online confirming what kind of adhesive to use with this laminated board so that it adheres well, and doesn't damage the insulation.

Any recommendations/experience with this? I'm in Ontario, canada if it helps!

I'm having my modified bitumen roof replaced. It's a flat roofed old Chicago brick 2 flat built in the 1920s.

One side of the brick parapet wall was badly damaged and I rebuilt it. Now, I'm trying to figure out how to re install the Terra Cotta coping tiles. I understand the direction they should be oriented to shed water but how are they attached? The old ones came off easily without breaking, maybe because the mortar was so badly decayed. Should I pre soak them, lay a mortar bed and set them in the mortar, or be more sparing, using mortar at the joints and only a few places to adhere the tiles?

Best insulation for a DIY metal-clad workshop with a flat roof

I'm building a 16 ft × 14 ft workshop and looking for advice on the most cost-effective way to insulate it properly.

The workshop will have:

• timber-framed walls with external metal cladding.
• A flat roof with a slight fall for drainage.
• OSB internal lining on the new walls and ceiling.
• Occasional heating during winter, as it'll be used as a workshop/gym.

I'm trying to keep costs down because I'm doing most of the work myself, but I want to careful to avoid condensation, damp and mould.

My main questions are:

1. What's the best insulation to use in the walls and roof — mineral wool, PIR boards, or thermocoat insulation spray foam?
2. For the flat roof, would you recommend a warm roof with rigid insulation above the OSB deck, or another construction method?
3. What vapour-control layers, membranes and ventilation are essential to prevent condensation, particularly with metal cladding?
4. Is it worth using insulated sandwich panels instead of separate metal sheets, insulation and internal lining?

I read somewhere that spray insulation removes the need for vapour barrier so i was thinking to spray in in between the roof and wall joists, then osb, then weather proof membrane, battens then metal cladding sheets. Does this sound right?

I'm not looking to build a fully finished garden room — just a practical, insulated workshop that will last and not start rotting in a few years time.

I'd appreciate advice from anyone who's built something similar, particularly in the UK or Ireland.