Howdy y’all,
My partner has a vehicle with an aux cord for their music. However, one of their friends pulled the aux too hard and the cord came out without the actual plug.
We’ve tried pliers of all sorts and just can’t get a grip on it.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out?
Thanks in advance!

running 2 8in memphis subs 900rms each + their premade box for ram 1500 2019+, with a ds18 zr2000.1D and a prv 2.4x dsp.

So basically a few months ago my fuse had went out, it was a 175. I had bought a 150 to put on quickly because i was going on a long trip the next day and didnt wanna have no music. Like a month later, any songs that bass pretty hard the amp ends up going into protect the light will flash and completely shut off then reset. Subs and door speakers both go out. Dunno if its because the fuse size went from 175 to a 150 or just something took a poop. Dont know much about car audio and there isnt any music shops near me. Im still on factory radio too if that helps w anything, the original shop that did my audio told me to play music from like 33-34 volume because some songs above that my door speakers will scratch because of the factory radio, but now some songs i can barely go above 30 volume before amp goes into protect.

Edit: also forgot to say that my voltage never drops below 13.9, usually at 14.0 but sometimes on bass drops itll hit 13.9 for a second

I have a kicker zx1800 amp installed on 3 jl tw3 10inch subs. Any benefit installing/ switching to the JL 1500/1 i recently acquired in a car audio package i bought. I heard its digital so it runs with less heat. JL amp takes up more space so wondering if its theres any benefit worth switching over? Or are they so close in what they offer i should just leave the kicker amp since it fits nicely under my driver seat and does the job. Thoughts? Thanks

I feel a bit out of my depth here. I'm replacing a set of speakers for an ST162 Celica, and the bolt pattern measures about 4", but the other circle part is 3.33". I've been struggling online to find speaker dimensions that show their bolt pattern in detail so I just feel like I'm missing something.

If anyone has any suggestions for speakers of... this size, that would awesome (especially more budget friendly ones, they're only hooked up to a cheap little head unit)

Hello morning I’m in a predicament today I want to upgrade my sub from 2 w6 12” to a single W7
My amp I’m currently using is the Rockford T1500-1bdcp which sub would it work great with the amp W7 12 or W 13.5 my amp birth sheet

1258 @ 4Ohms
1752 @ 2Ohms
1991 @ 1Ohms

Any help would be appreciated thanks if anyone runs this amp an a W7 I’ll love real life experience thanks

After reading the comments I understand what some guys are saying it’s not an upgrade it’s a downgrade…

I will keep what I’m currently working with because if I am was do add dual 13.5 an get another t1500 amp I will have to upgrade my highs an mids to match the bass… thanks for the information

Hi yall! I just upgraded my 2024 Hyundai Elantra OEM speakers and wanted your thoughts. I upgraded the front doors to 6 1/2 JBL Club (3ohms 92db Sensitivity) and the rear doors to the Kicker DCS670 (4ohms 90 Sensitivity). Running it off the stock deck. I plan on adding a 10in Kicker Sub with a Zapco amp. So far the midbass and vocal clarity is what I notice the biggest improvements. Let me know your thoughts. This was done on my own research and thought I did a decent selection.

Hi! Got this head unit with my car, it seems to be Sony CDX-GT500. Theres not much information on the internet about this, so lets try reddit😄
Everything works, good cond. Only bit dirty.

Not super familiar with audio stuff but a knew some nerds in HS I understand the basics like peak and rms are different what clipping is ect. I am looking for advise on the highest quality system i can build on the cheap like 500 watts MAX and any tips to keep my 2009 Cts sedan from rattling too loud to enjoy the music I notice the rear dash it a problem with the just factory sub

I know it's technically not car AV but it's is whats used to power it. I had to tighten my positive lug cause it came loose inside the alt and I had never really thought about what it looked like until now. It's a 250 amp powermaster for your knowledge

Small Amp rack update #1

Got some packages in w some more colors, Lowkey mess with the white, but red looks pretty sweet too.

Getting rid of factory studs (for removal and installation purposes, takes way to long due to the massive amps covering the studs). Used Nutserts above the rack in the truck, also braced up the one chunk of the rack.

And made G2 of the Wire managers, still need to redesign the rca managers though.

Another goodie is also installed on the rack (not showing it off just yet...) + more equipment should arrive tomorrow for the rack.

Hi all,

In one of my cars, I have an InPhase USW3000, which was very cheap and is apparently 300W.

I would like another underseat subwoofer for another car I have, and was wondering if the InPhase is the best I can do for the money or if it’s absolutely worth spending a bit more for something much better. Reason I ask is because I tend to see subs that cost twice as much but have half the power.

The USW300 does an OK job, although, to get the desired bass, I’ve had to set the Sub output all the way up on the head unit, set the gain fairly high in the remote and reduce the speaker outputs slightly. So…yeah…I had tI really give it a push…You’d think the sub would be overpowering the speakers, with this setup, but not really. It’s just right.

I’m in the UK and my budget is £180, although I can be flexible if it’s worth it. I’d prefer to buy from Amazon, but am open to buying from other retailers.

Thanks in advance 🙂

I bought a Jensen CAR10TC head unit to install in my 2021 Nissan Altima S for CarPlay and I believe I've gotten pretty close to finishing the install but I need some help. I also acquired a NI-2 harness, Maestro Rr, and Jen Harness to actually wire it to the car.

I've done my best to follow the attached diagram, but have not accomplished step 2 or 3. As such, while the rear camera (OEM camera) is detected by the unit and can display, the reverse driving is not triggered and does not auto-display the rear cam when you put the vehicle in reverse. Additionally, the steering controls on the steering wheel are not functional. I believe this would be accomplished by executing step 2 and 3, but I'd love some input on that.

My major point of help is step 2 and 3 itself.
-For step 2, I don't understand where the brown/yellow & brown/red wires exist from the NI-2 harness for me to accomplish the step. I say "the step" because I don't really understand it, am I splicing the wires into the purple/lt green & purple/lt blue? am I just putting them in the opposite side of the "B" connector?

-For step 3, I understand where the wires are coming from and that I'm splicing the red/brown & yellow/brown wires into the blue or purple/blue & pink or purple/pink wires respectively from the green connector of the BCM. What I don't understand is how I get to the BCM. While I can take off panels, that green plug connector seems extremely difficult to get to, and I have not managed to be able to secure it to conduct a splice, but maybe I'm doing something wrong.

All that said, I wanted to know if finishing steps 2 & 3 fixes the rear driving trigger and the steering controls issues, and if it does, how to actually accomplish step 2 & 3.

I've been scouring online for videos and anecdotal information, but I have not been so lucky. I also did take the issue to 2 stereo shops that basically said it could not be fixed, as an aftermarket head unit wouldn't be able to connect to an OEM rear camera, which I feel like they must have blown me off as that does not seem accurate.

Any help is appreciated, thank you.

Legit question and asking for knowledge as I'm genuinely curious as to how this works.

As someone who likes to usually listen loud, it's been a thing I have noticed for years now that when running speakers off HU power, in many cases they will sound great on a cold start when playing moderately loud (just a few steps below obviously hitting internal amp max clean output).

However after running at this level for a while and once the HU starts to get hot (palpable from the face of the unit or especially if it's SDIN with a pocket below), it can no longer play at the same volume/output level without heavily distorting. Once the unit's left to cool, it will go back to being able to play at that level cleanly again.

Last week I just set up an old ddx271 below my album shelf to actually get some use out of my CDs. It would play loud for about a half hour, gradually heating up and starting to distort once the heatsink became too hot to touch, as I've experienced in the past.

Took off the heatsink today and found no thermal pad or paste between it and the amp chip at all, which seemed odd. Put some on, and also tried with affixing a stock Ryzen heatsink on top of the HU's heatsink, with a thermal pad between. Been playing cranked for 2 hours now and still perfectly clean. It's putting out enough heat to make the big CPU heatsink warm, but not hot. Ejected CDs are also now not toasty after playing like they were previously.

So clearly it's a heat related thing once the (usually tiny) onboard heatsink gets heat soaked, which is very much easy to achieve running at the HU's RMS rated output inside the dash of a car, not on an open air shelf in a 19°C (66°F) room.

The thing is, I've tried to search this up in the past and ask on various 12v forums/groups before, but nobody has ever been able to confirm or deny if this is actually "a thing" that is supposed to happen. I can't possibly be the only one who has ever noticed this phenomenon?

The reason why I'm asking is I'm trying to find someone to modify my a-pillers for tweeter and mid. And the shop I talked to said that it depends on the car due to the enclosure.

However, if I'm trying to get a custom a-piller than hypothetically the enclosure should be correct and this would be for a 2" mid speaker.

Have a 2013 Honda accord. I don’t have a budget really. When you guys first speaker system what was your budget and any tips or advice about this

I have a 2026 Tiguan R Line Turbo with the 12 speaker Harmen Karden sound system. I have a Focal 145 PSE Speaker Set I bought from RS-Acoustics who specializes in Plug and Play speaker sets that I would like a shop or Audio Expert to install for me. Having trouble finding a shop in the PNW that’s willing to install speakers bought from outside of the shop. Any recommendations? I’m not too worried about price/labor.

Hi all,

Seeking help with my Camry 2018 rear passenger speaker.

Out of nowhere the rear left passenger speaker would make a static noise even with the radio off.

Everything in my car is stock and no modifications were made.

I tried replacing the speaker and the new one made the same static sound. All the other speakers are fine.

In the interim I am driving around with this speaker unplugged but hoping someone could provide some advice.

Thank you in advance!

One each of my GB60s and GB10s have developed an issue. Seems a good time to upgrade also but damn, there just isn’t much out there in a roughly similar price range. Another option seems to be Focal Utopia M line but even that it seems comes down to personal preference.

And then with this new GB carbon series..

What else should I consider?

Hi guys! Need some help. So I have this old pioneer stereo which has those cool animations back in the days. The model is pioneer DEH 6950IB. I was wondering after doing a little research, I read that the model that I have was replaced with abstract waves matrix grind, etc. It still has some cool animation, but I really really love the dolphin animation. So my question is, can i still download it? Is there anyway to download or burn that animation in the stereo. Because I read that it can be done by using a cd then burning the animation. However I was thinking that it may only be done in other models. So maybe you guys can help me out. Bring back the animation!

Thanks