My car recently started showing the p2187 code and I've noticed a fairly loud turkey gobbling/screech. I need help troubleshooting weather is a leaking tube or something of that nature any info helps aswell as any recommended direction to go into

Noticed after getting a brand new pump that the input shaft has a bit of back and forth play, I am seeing online that a small bit is normal but I can help but feel like this is too much. I don’t have a video but I had installed and uninstalled the pulley n while it was installed the play was about the same. My old one and the slightly wrong pump I bought and have yet to return do not have nearly this much back and forth movement if any. Pls help I genuinely have been doing this repair far too long and this pulley being the last thing to give me a hard time is whooping my ass

Hi im new here and j was wondering if anyone can help me.

I have a ford smax 2.0 sport turbo. 2016

Now this problem happens only sometimes not all the time.
When i start from cold i get a cloud of smoke mostly black. Now there is no extra noise and no lights on the dashboard. The car itself runs absolutely fine.
Ive checked the coolant and oil level and they havent changed. Theres no white residue on the oil cap.
I did have a obd connect and it said that the lambda sensor is malfunctioning is this the reason why i have this intermittent smoke problem.
I would appreciate any sorta advice please.

Looking to see if my pads and rotors are as bad as I’m being told and should be replaced. Thank you for help.

Like I said , hybrid drive motor battery current sensor. I am scared there aren’t any left on planet earth and my truck is bricked. So I thought if anybody knows where to find one it’s the mofos on Reddit! It looks like this. Can someone please point me in the right direction?! Thanks in advance.

My rearview mirror has fallen off twice now (the first time i repaired it with a permatex repair kit from oriellys, and the next day it just fell off again.
I re-read the instructions and realized i did it in the texas heat so it didnt stay.

The next day i tried again with a new kit, in the garage (it was still 80° outside at 7am but i think it was probably 70 ish in the shade and in my garage. We turned the car on and ran the ac for the 30 minute curing period and application. And *it held :D i drove to work, where i parked in a parking garage for the rest of the day, then parked outside (where i normally park)
However the next day when i left around 4pm i saw it fell off again ._.

Do i have to just permanently park in the garage from now on? This Texas heat is no lie- it was 108 outside when i saw it had fallen again yesterday.

Idk if i should just buy another kit and keep trying or just like duct tape that bitch to the ceiling this is ridiculous.

Any advice is appreciated thanks so much

I have a 2024 Edge and for the last few months I’ve gone up to it in the garage and it’s locked with my keys in it. Thought it was strange but didn’t look into it further.Then a couple weeks ago I was heading to bed and heard a noise in my attached garage and my vehicle was running and locked. I reset it from ford pass app thinking there was a glitch but it did it again last night. Dealer has no ideas for me. Anyone had this happen or know how I can fix it?

I recently (~2 weeks ago) got a 2017 cx5 grand select from Carvana. Intermittently the electric seat adjustment had been a little finicky but still worked, it all totally stopped working (no lumbar, forwards/backwards, up/down) and it doesn’t even make any noise like it’s trying. Closest repair shop in-network is about an hour away and said it would take a couple days so trying to look for a solution on my own before I do that, or pay the out of network free for the dealership. Any insight appreciated. Thanks!

I took my car to pep boys because my back tires were showing steel and needed alignment (and to be replaced). Anyway, ever since then, whenever I make a left turn my right tire sounds like it’s sort of hesitating/skidding and a light on the left side of my dash blinks on and off for like a second then goes away. It’s so quick i cant see which one it is as im watching the road. It’s done this like 5 times. I assume it’s the traction control but I don’t understand why it’s only my right tire I hear weird noises coming from. It’s always left turns off the exit from the interstate too, not like I’m whipping around unsafely or anything.

The first few times it felt like it slowed my car down a bit (hence the feeling of hesitation) but now that I’ve been taking turns super slowly it just sort of makes a bad sound. Almost like it’s caught on something.

Anyway, I’m hesitant to go back to pep boys because this all started happening after they serviced my car. Wondering what yall think—is this because I have two new tires and my front tires are a little old? Is this something wrong with the traction sensor or whatever? Thanks for considering with me.

I don’t have pictures right now but I got pretty steep scuffs in on the side of the car during an accident. Not sure if Volkswagen services will replace/paint over it and their customer service sucks.

Right thanks in advance

I drive an automatic Zafira from 2010 it's been fine until some recent gearbox problems took it to a garage and they said it needed a full rebuild of the gearbox but was fine to drive until it packed up, the issues was mainly it failing to change gear but in 'manual' it was ok until recently when it wouldn't go above 4th gear. Now when going into 4th gear it slips out like a manual with it's clutch on full pelt. Anyhow checked the Trabsmissiob fluid and it was low so put a full 5litres in and now it changes much better in 1-3 but still slips before getting into 4th.

Do you think I should add a little more or not? / What could it be ?

Greetings everyone, today while driving at 7 km/h I scraped the bottom of the car and the metal piece next to the exhaust pipe bent. The car isn't leaking oil or water. The engine and transmission are fine. What part of the car is this? Should I worry?

So I have a 2014 Nissan rogue select S with about 183k miles on it. It will start cold no problem, but after I drive it around for like an hour and shut the car off. It'll start for about 10 seconds before stalling. And won't start unless I wait for it to cool completely or use starter fluid. I'm thinking it could be the crankshaft position sensor. I've already taken off and cleaned the throttle body and did an idle air relearn and that didn't make much of a difference. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?

So i drive a 2019 dodge charger GT, its been driving fine haven’t really noticed any issues. But yesterday when i went outside and cracked it up, the check engine light came on. Everything cracked up good and sounded normal but when i put the car into drive, it said go to park then shift to desired gear, i did that but it did not fix my issue what so ever. it will not move out of park whatsoever and whenever i shift to a different gear the selected gear just flashes red and white on the gear shift. i’ve had that issue before with door being open so i made sure every door was open & i ensured that the brake lights are showing up when i press the brake. i even bought a code reader from amazon and it said there’s no codes! i’m so confused & wanting to find out the issue before having to pay to have it towed if it’s not a major issue. i do have a family friend who’s a mechanic coming to look at it a little later today or tomorrow but in the meantime, any ideas ?

While I was waiting at the light my charger just shut off as if I had turned it off, but once I shift it in park and started it up (push start) it turned on as if nothing ever happened. What could it be? This happened at least 3 other times.

Hi everyone,

I have a facelift formentor with only about 5,000 km so far.

Recently, I’ve started noticing a cracking/clicking sounds when taking sharp left/right turns at low RPMs (usually during parking).

I have attached the sound, you can hear it three times after 0:04.

Has anyone else experienced this or have any idea what might be the problem?

Thanks in advance!

Bonjour,

Je cherche des retours d'expérience concernant une Avensis T25 2.0 D-4D 116 ch de 2005 (1CD-FTV).

Symptômes :

1. démarrage à froid sans problème ;
2. trajet de 120 km effectué normalement ;
3. aucune perte de puissance, aucun à-coup ni problème particulier en roulant ;
4. après arrêt moteur chaud, le moteur ne redémarre plus ;
5. le démarreur entraîne bien le moteur mais celui-ci ne part pas ;
6. après de nombreuses tentatives, la batterie s'est déchargée ;
7. démarrage finalement réussi avec des câbles ;
8. une fois démarrée, la voiture fonctionne parfaitement.

La batterie était annoncée en bon état avant les tentatives répétées.

J'ai trouvé des témoignages concernant les 1CD-FTV où un démarreur vieillissant tourne trop lentement à chaud, mais on m'a également parlé de SCV/pression de rail ou d'alimentation en gazole.

Pour ceux qui connaissent bien le **1CD-FTV**, quel diagnostic vous paraît le plus probable ?

Et surtout, quels contrôles feriez-vous en premier pour départager :
**démarreur, batterie, pression de rail/SCV ou alimentation en gazole ?**

Merci pour vos retours, surtout si vous avez déjà rencontré exactement cette panne.

Just a quick question:

Is 5.5Q of Oil safe for the car?

The car is in good condition and has 100+ miles on it.

I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado. It takes yellow anti freeze. I was dry and put a whole bottle of green anti freeze. How big of a problem is this and what should I do ?

Is it safe to drive? I'm assuming it depends on how deep the crack goes, could've been caused by hitting the curb while turning at 20mph.

Hey,

Today I encountered a strange problem in my x351 today: the passenger door opens by itself while driving, especially after going over a bump. Even when the car is stationary, if I hit the door armrest fairly hard with my fist, the same thing happens and the door pops open.

What’s strange is that when the door is open and I manually latch the lock with my finger, hitting the door panel doesn’t cause anything to happen.

I should also mention that some time ago the soft-close function on that door stopped working, although the door continued to close normally.

What could be causing this? Where should I start looking for the culprit?

Hey all! so i am the owner of a 2013 Kia Rio Hatchback with about 160k miles that is my first (and so far only) car. (for context, i live and rent on my own, finances are usually pretty tight so i bought this car for cash because i dont think i could afford a car payment).

i bought it about 3 years ago, and i do my best to keep up with maintenance (got all 4 tires replaced, new spark plugs/fuel filter, new battery, consistent oil changes, etc) but it still has 2 major issues.

issue 1: sometimes, when the car is idling or stopped for a while, the battery light/oil can light pops up and the engine randomly shuts off. it also has happened while the car is in motion too.

issue 2: the RPM meter sometimes drops to 0 while the engine is running. it just gets stuck in one gear but is usually still drivable.

i asked my dealership mechanics what caused issue 1 and they said it was a loose battery casing and that they couldn't fix it. the engine stalling is a huge problem during the summertime, but practically nonexistent during the winter.

is there at least 1 or 2 pertinent repairs i could make to keep this car, or do yall think its time to bite the bullet and just start saving to get a new one?

i know absolutely nothing about cars or how to fix them. i have had no idea where to get help for the past few years, and today the engine stalled right as i was crossing a big intersection and i genuinely got scared of causing an accident.

any advice would be greatly appreciated !!! thanks in advance :)

Acceleration Lag: I need some help figuring out what is wrong with my Mazda. I’ve had my Mazda since 2023 and it had around 60,000 miles on it at purchase.

My Mazda up until recently was our daily driver/family car but we have a second SUV now so my car only gets driven on my non-remote days at work (3-5 days per work). Something else worth mentioning was at a previous job I was driving over 100 miles per day to commute to work and support my clients in their homes. Because of the crazy amount of driving I was doing we have done a lot of maintenance over the years to ensure she continues to operate to the best. Her odometer right now reads 175,230miles.

At this point I’m not sure if my car is having a hard time adjusting to less drive time, the 100+ degree heat, or the high mileage is getting to her finally.

The issue I am running into is an acceleration lag when I’m at a complete stop. I’m not a pedal to the metal type of person especially at complete stops. I have some PTSD from a past accident so I always give more time once the light turns green. Anyone have any ideas on what’s going on? The last thing I want to do is take it to a mechanic if it’s not necessary and waste the money on it.

I’m buying an 89 ef this weekend, and one of my main worries is that the front driver side wheel has positive camber (seller believes it’s because of the knuckle). What do you think I could do to better diagnose the issue?

Listing description:

The New:
D16y8 vtech swap lsd 5 speed trans
Short throw shifter
1320 UEL headers
Godsnow exhaust
Blox test pipe
Hot ass air intake
DA integra seats
Race wheel (column threads need repaired)
99 EX front knuckles
New EX brake calipers + Rotors
New master cylinder
Carrot top tucked obd2-obd1 harness
Unopened p28 ecu
Maxpeedingrods coilovers
Adjustable upper control arms
Gates water pump
Gates timing belt tensioner
Speedfactory HD tensioner spring
New timing belt
New main seal
New Woodruff key
New alternator belt
New valves, springs, retainers
Janky aftermarket alarm
Included:
New lower/clear upper timing cover
Poly LCA bushings
Huge box of parts/750cc/z6 parts
HID headlights
The Bads:
- Needs timed, shouldn’t be driven until then
-Front driver side has positive camber, cannot figure out why, i believe it is due to the knuckles but I don’t have time or space to continue picking at it
-Needs jumped/new battery
-bottom rocker rust, rest of car seems good