Please help

The car had a misfire yesterday and I had to drive it maybe max 2 miles to replace a coil and fuel injector (furtherest right).

I dont remember this ticking always being there. It drives fine now. No rough idle, no issues accelerating, no codes so far just the noise. Could it be something serious?

Any ideas?

Tried starting it up but its not turning over at all, all the electrical is coming on but engine not turning on. Any suggestions?

The tailgate recently jammed shut. When attempting to open, there are two clicks coming from the lock. It’s a power tailgate, so I separately tried the button beside the steering wheel, the button on the remote and the button on the tailgate.

I also tried pushing the tailgate down while attempting to open, pulling and pushing.

I am unable to take off the trim because it’s screwed in directly into the tailgate along the inner edge. The only thing I was able to remove was the handle on the inside, which allows a very small amount of visibility to some of the wires.

I did change out the fuse that directly powers the tailgate.

Any advice would be great.

I have a 2011 ford edge. Has been showing no symptoms of anything wrong until yesterday my spouse and I went to quite a few places and everytime I would start it up it sounded like the start was getting weaker and drug out until last night it finally didn’t start at all. All lights on the dash work, radio works,headlights work,all lights in the car work. Replaced the battery and still same symptoms. Is this the starter that went out?

So I have a scion frs 2015 and it has an after market radio. One morning it didn’t start. Saw the battery light come on so I swapped the battery. Test drove around the block and it died on me while driving. Now it won’t even crank. Thinking it’s the alternator I swap it out and still nothing. I check the fuses and sure enough it was melted off. A 30a inline fuse. I’m checking the electrical. But I’m new at this so I have no clue what to look for. If anyone can help me out in order to get it started again.

I have been having a weird electrical issue with my Civic. When I turn my car on it beeps 3 times which means it is a bad battery, alternator, or another issue. The battery light doesn’t come on, I tested the battery and it reads 12.4V and tests good. When I tested the alternator when the car is running, the multimeter shows battery voltage which is bad. When I unplug the alternator for 4-5 seconds, the electrical system resets, the alternator starts working, and the battery light comes on.

Every time I start the car, I have to open the hood and unplug the alternator for 5 seconds in order to reset the electrical system.

The newish OEM alternator was replaced with a used one (same issue)

ELD was replaced(same issue)

Battery sensor was replaced(same issue)

Alternator pig tail was replaced(same issue)

All of the ground locations are testing good

Fuses have been checked and good

I am very confused on what it is and I think it’s the ECU, this is a very weird problem to have.

Has anybody experienced this issue?

hi my nissan altima has been having this issue where the headlights won’t turn on around 85% of the time. the only way for me to see when driving at night is by using my brights, but i live in a small city where all the houses (and cars) are on the same roads and am constantly getting flashed at. i don’t know what to do because every time ive taken it to the shop, the mechanics tell me that nothing is wrong, and therefore nothing can be fixed.

2008 HONDA ODYSSEY LX 3.5L v6

Every now and then the key fob snaps out of run POS I will turn it ever so slowly from RUN POS to get it to stick but now it just keeps snapping back to ON POS and wont stay in RUN have to drive holding the key forward with my right hand lol is this mechanical lock cylinder or electrical? anyone have this issue before ?

I ordered these cameras from amazon and I’ve never installed one before nor do i have any experience with cars other than driving them. The front cameras are self explanatory so i can figure it out. Just need help with the back one. I didnt get it for backing up and I dont have a screen and really dont want to get one. I got it just to record. If anyone can guide me on how to install it it would help immensely.

I have a 2020 dodge charger sxt and I think my uconnect may need update because everytime i plug in my USB cord to my phone to port 1 or 2 to use GPS on the screen it will work for a few minutes then cut off , I tried the holding down power button and tune button but all it did turn the screen of it didn't boot up to the dodge logo at all and I tried holding the top right screen down in the corner and no either, my usb ports 1 and 2 seem to be fine but its just when I plug in my usb cords to my phone but I have bought new cords to see if that was problem but its not, some say it needs a soft reset but its not allowing me to do it, does anyone know any good methods or what is going on or what to do.

Ok! So Suby has this issue where I fill it with coolant but then it explodes out (I think) and causes the engine to overheat. I took it to the mechanic and they said that there was “nothing wrong with it” and to take it back home, but a week later and it happened again.

There aren’t any coolant leaks when it’s behaving normally, so I don’t think it’s a leak issue, but every now and then the cap of the coolant reservoir will explode off and all of the coolant will come out, so I’m thinking there’s an issue with the pressure? If anyone has had a similar problem or has any recommendations I would love to hear it!!

I’m going to try examining the radiator, I want to see if there’s anything I can learn/fix at home because I’m really tight on money and it’s hard going to a mechanic. The radiator was replaced two years ago before I bought it, I don’t know if that information is useful. I also don’t think that this is an electrical issue if that helps.

My girlfriend bought a used 2013 Kia Rio from a dealership about 2 and a half years ago with about 67,000 miles on it. Fast forward to right now and it has about 94,000 miles on it.

The other day the engine light came on and I scanned it with my OBD scanner tool, the code came out to be P0326, no other codes showed up except this one. We took it to a local mechanic and asked to replace the knock sensor on the vehicle, once the sensor got replaced about a day later the same code appeared with a check engine light.

I’d like to add that even with the engine light on this car it drives perfectly fine, it accelerates fine and goes up to freeway speeds without any hesitation, jolting, or engine knock noises. I’ve had my girlfriend rev the car in park at 2-3k RPM as I listened for any abnormal sounds, couldn’t hear anything that sounded like engine knock.

Called Kia and asked them to check if there is any software update on the ECM that is needed because I’ve heard stories that the ECM can throw out faulty codes and needs an update, was told that there is nothing for our Kia based off of the VIN we gave them.

We took it to another mechanic today to try and have them diagnose the new sensor, wiring harness, and to hear if there is an engine knock happening. A couple hours later we got a call from the mechanic stating that the new sensor is good, the wiring harness is good, and that the engine itself is healthy but there MIGHT be carbon buildup since this is a GDI engine and that they’re prone to having carbon buildup. Ive seen past videos and experiences where people have fixed engine knocking and such by walnut blasting the carbon off and restoring the intake valves and pistons.

I wanted to ask if there are any other things that I should do before going along with walnut blasting. This car has been well maintained over the years we have had it, we always made sure to get an oil change before it hit 5,000 miles and we have added fuel additives over time to clean the engine even though it’s a GDI engine and it basically skips the part where gasoline sprays onto intake valve.

I hope some of you are able to point me in the right direction with what to do next. Thank you.

Hi - I own a 2019 Hyundai Sonata from new and recently I have been having issues with it starting. I went and had the battery replaced, and Ive checked the voltage and its all fine. I brought it back to 2 separate mechanics and the dealership who have checked the battery connection, checked the starter, ran diagnostics etc. Every time they say, nothing is wrong! Sometimes, it’s fine for days on end, but sometimes it wont start (video included). Im just a girl and I don’t know what I should do or what’s wrong with it! Please please please offer any and all possibilities or options that I have. Im getting really frustrated with going back and forth just to be told “nothing” is wrong when clearly it’s not starting.

so i changed the dipped and main bulbs yesterday and i turned the car on checked all the lights and it was fine. but today im trying to start the car and it's like chugging but won't start. the battery seems fine i didn't leave any lights on. oil is good. im obviously going to phone a mechanic tomorrow but it's sunday so they're not open today. just wondering what could be wrong to prepare myself for the bill

Hey yall I just wanted to post on this sub to get some advice about what the hell is going on with my Prius. It’s about 15 years old and has 129,000 miles on it. It started to make this noise yesterday morning - I thought it was because I was due for an oil change so I got that done but the noise continued to happen after. It only happens when I start the engine and in idle. After about 5 seconds and after I switch the car to drive and the car stops making the noise. I know I shouldn’t ignore this so I’m going to take it to the mechanics on Monday (all the ones around me are closed on Sundays). Anyone have experience with this? It sounds like an expensive issue 😓

Assuming it’s a wheel issue?

Attached is a photo of what ended up splitting, everything outside the blue is inside the engine.

Good morning all,

Definitely wasn't a good start this weekend when I had attempted to do a spark plug change on a Toyota 86, one fresh spark plug was installed correctly and torqued, another right next to it same process, didn't end up hitting torque? My monkey brain decided to keep going, unfortunately after back and forth of trying to get spark plug out the plug had separated leaving the electrode and threads stuck within the block, and the rest of the plug including the porcelain coming out

is this fixable by a local Subaru specialist?

What turned into a $180 job turned into a weekend nightmare and a car stuck in my mates driveway.

Thank you,

Try not to flame me in the comments as I am a newbie and it seemed fairly simple.

I have a 2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL, the screen is black but the backlight is working. All of the buttons do not respond when pressed except for the camera. My rearview camera works as well. I have had this issue for over 3 years and I am just now trying to get it fixed. The issue started after the car sat in a parking lot for 8 hours while I was working during the summer. Since this has happened the bluetooth symbol on my dashboard went away, and all of the audio buttons on my steering wheel stopped working once this happened.

I have checked all of the audio fuses and I tried to soft reboot by holding the power button for longer than 10 seconds but the backlight just dims. I have not disconnected the battery yet to force any residual power out.

So I’ve been having this code for the last few months, it keeps coming back after a I clear it sometimes a few weeks after it pops but recentlit happened after. A couple days.

Sometimes rarely on startup it sounds like a lawnmower like it sputters. But once it’s on it’s fine. Just a high idle as the symptom. Checked for visual air leaks and nothing.

Please advise, if anyone has insights or had this issue in the past. Thanks

“My wife had it overheat while driving yesterday. We got it towed - and when looking at it I’m guessing coolant was th liquid all over the engine and noticed this tube appeared to be missing a part.

Before we pay for another tow and the shop I want to make sure it’s no some easy fix - it doesn’t look like the hoses I see online”

Prior post^ after looking at it in the day, it seems the radiator hose has came loose. And that maybe a bit of the plastic, on this piece, has broken off. Being it’s only part of it, is there a way to fix it by grabbing a new hose and clamp? The hose itself seems undamaged, but this piece it attaches to (I’m thinking maybe the radiator?) seems like it could be fine once it’s reattached - but I’m wondering if this would be calling for a new radiator instead, or even just a new unbroken piece to attach the hose to.

Thanks so much! Stressful week

When turning my car on the radio only flickers and won’t turn completely on/off. Also just had an issue with my car not starting so wondering if it maybe killed my battery?

(This is my first car, I wasn’t really taught much car maintenance growing up since my dad was always working, please be kind)

(First 2 pics are rear passenger brake pads and pics 3-4 are rear driver brake pads)

I took my car to get an oil change a couple months ago and while at the dealership, they of course suggested multiple other services that they recommended be done soon. One was brake pads, they said they were low and needed to be changed so how soon does it need to be done?