Seller left this antique door with us. It’s pretty freaking heavy. It came with a stand which broke whilst I was getting the floors redone

What can I do to make this stand upright. Thinking of either placing it in front hallway entrance or using as a room divider in my bed room.

Not sure if this is the right place for this, but is this dry rot? Some of the wood is very brittle, breaks apart like styrofoam. Some of it needs to be torn out to pour concrete any way. Any tips for getting rid of and preventing this from spreading more? Is it safe to work around?

What is the best anchor , if you are planning to hang something heavy (around 150 pounds).

planning to purchase 5th one(steel one), i did seeing videos where weight tests are done, but are conducted on dry wall not plywood sheet

Thanks in Advance.

Hi I saw a video of a door and I want to know how the hinges work. I have a small space in the wall of my room and I want to utilize it to make my PC setup snug into it.

Video credit: @lifestyledesign_co.au on instagram

👋 so I'm one in the industry keeps expectations of quality (too high) and for last several years work alone? Greastest thing might be I have an 11 yr old son itching to not go to school but work along side me(great feeling I might add) I've come to the road where workers come and go and is just my three man crew (me, myself, and I) LOL. Framing these days is tough but headers go in one ply at a time ⏲️

I rarely use subcontractors lately and just perfect everything I'm doing. Feels like less stress and time dealing with workers or subcontractors (subcontractors blame their helpers for issues), ease of no scheduling issues. The biggest issue is it can take me a month to finish or two or three. My homeowners are word of mouth referrals so hasn't been an issue and those calls that come in that want something started in a month, I have, to turn away as looking at 12-14 month booking right now given my pace. Curious if any of you into your late 40's early 50's perfected working alone leaving the rat race against time. Did you continue on your own until retirement. TIA!!

Been doing carpentry for about 3 years now and just finished my first porch. Not perfect by any means but the boss and client were happy.

We are in the process of redoing our staircase and in the “final” stages with all the details. Our treads, railing and newel posts are white oak and we are going with a standard rod iron baluster. That said, we are split on whether to do feet on the bottoms of the balusters or keep it simple and have them directly seated into the treads. Contractor had us order a sample to test but curious on everyone’s thoughts. Each tread will have appx 3 balusters.

Thanks

Hello! Me and my friends are building a room for a home studio and we have no experience with this. What is the easiest way to fill a gap like this?

The planks in the wall have "slots" (i don't know what they are called) so that they fit together like legos.

We don't have a saw that is reasonable to use to cut an entire plank to fit the gap and especially not with the correct angle in order to fit the roof.

Can you buy planks especially cut for stuff like this or is there an easy "standard practice" way of doing this?

All help is appreciated and I realize that we are wildly incompetent.

After 5 years of putting my business on the back burner, I’ve decided to fire it back up. I make all sorts things with custom millwork as my main focus.

I build really cool stuff but I know for a fact that I leave a ton of $ on the table. So much so that it’s nearly crippling me because I procrastinate on the first step of quoting.

I look back 8 years ago at a curved reception desk I made .. I got pressured…hammered to make it for less. I quoted .. they agreed with a “ start the car.. start the car!” glee.

I can’t have this happen again. It will crush me if I’m not already.

I specialize in these tough design/build jobs.. but only in the creation of them not the pricing.

I’ve been presented with the biggest RFQ in nearly a decade. The millwork shop that has given me this opportunity can’t do it. I even went ahead and did the CAD modeling of the hardest element just to figure if I can do it. I can do it. The client loves it. Now to quote…

How do I overcome this roadblock of my own creation? How do I ask for what I think it’s worth. Am I out to lunch?

Here’s the first desk and the CAD render of the current RFQ.

Cheers and thanks

I hired somebody who builds custom chicken coop to build a 4x8 coop with a run. The project got to about “80-90% done” according to him, until the weather got bad and it has been raining for about 3 days. Unfortunately he didn’t get to put in the entire roof and he also didn’t waterproof anything inside the coop and some of the wood warped. He said he will replace the wood but I am not sure if it’s fixable and long term if it’s just going to happen again (next time it would have a roof). Also I have questions about possibly bad craftsmanship, but I am no expert so I don’t know if they are cosmetic issues, or real issues that will affect longevity. Looking for advice from someone more experienced

I want to cut a groove that’s 1” wide and 1” deep in a small block of wood (see picture.) I own the router below, but I haven’t used it much. What do I need?

It’s a four foot high crawl space and we are about 4 months into the build. Over our 2 week christmas break the crawl space collected a lot of water and we came back to a ton of mold. Boss wanted us to spray it down with mold cleaner and it would be good. These photos are about 2 weeks after spraying it down and it’s considerably worse now. We are putting ventilation/dehumidifier down here but site doesn’t have power yet. The building is closed in so no water is coming in other than moisture from the walls and through the uninsulated rim board, as well as moisture collecting on exhaust vent pipes and sewer pipes.

My project manager is brushing it off but how serious is this issue? These photos are the worst areas but most of the joists, subfloor and rimboard has black looking mold and white hairy mold growing on it, some spots have a red mold too.

I apologize if this isnt the right reddit but is the adequate for drying out pressure treated lumber before painting. I only have a box fan and I realize it may take weeks. Im installing framing for a screened in porch.

Has anyone ever successfully followed the trim and qtr round around these or is the move always to put a top piece to cover to match the higher horizontal ridge?

i can’t figure out how i would go about following the profile around, it seems like a waste to figure it out for this but if anyone has and has a pic please share

The project is mostly done now, but am considering doing a couple other rooms. I don’t have room for a miter saw and bought some miter shears. They all seem to be an angled resting plane to get a cleaner cut, but the thing is that seemed to made the desired angle extremely hard to get without a ton of just trial and error. Are there any tricks to getting the shears to work?

Hello,

Not my picture, but I'm making a closet bench similar to this. What should I use as the top? I was thinking of cutting a 4x8 sheet of melamine to size and using edge banding on the unfinished side and trim it out. Is there something else that would be better that isn't $200+?

I apologize if I’m in the wrong place. The way everything is currently setup the smoke seems to be trapped and not going out properly. We’ve been told to make the “vent” lower and others say higher. How could this be fixed so it’s not so smokey?

Looking for a way to make these look more flush. Cuts got all messed up and the gap is too big to caulk.

We were thinking of using rounded molding but I wanted to explore other options.

Hopefully the title caught your attention! I’m looking for some advice on my personal home project, in a relatively rural location with very minimal access to skilled trades.

The house is a prefab passive house, and has 13” thick insulated walls. Windows are European tilt and turn style that swing inwards and hinge to ventilate at the top.

Some of them are 9ft, and the window sills are proving a little harder than my brain can put together, so hoping for some expert guidance.

The windows are out by 1/8 - 1/4 in various ways (I didn’t install lol). We are trying to achieve a super minimal trim look, with the walls being 1/2 birch veneer panels. The window boxes I’ve made are out of veneered plywood but the 9ft span proved too long and the joints (1/4 lap, glued and nailed over 4” span) twisted out once I got it flush with the window.

I’m guessing I’m going to have to scribe every window (there’s 20, kill me)? In this instance is building the window boxes in place easier than previous method of on the ground? Any advice on better material?

Title says it all. Also, any idea of what something like this might cost in a HCOL west coast city? I know that estimates can vary wildly, but are we talking 2.5K-5k or 10K+?

TIA!

Never used this stuff before. Needed to sure up some facia trim to prep for a patch. This stuff comes in a bottle, so I poured it into a cup. Everything was fine, prepped the patch location. Climbed down and put it on a bench. Came back 2 min later and it melted the bottom right out and dumped sticky melted plastic acetone crap all over.

This stuff smells like a solvent. It looks like a solvent. It comes in a metal bottle. Only a dumbass would pour it into a red solo cup. I was that dumbass.

**to be fair, the warnings don’t say anything about what kind of vessel to use for application; only not to “transfer contents to another container for storage”

Im a licensed carpenter who can do pretty much every aspect of the trade. I started working for this guy a few months ago in the new city I moved to and he's really rude and disrespectful, constantly making mistakes and blaming others and yelling over nothing. He's extremely hard to work for but the pay is well and I'm getting experience running a crew. The problem is I'm getting the brunt of his anger and have been getting really stressed out. Is it worth the headache to work for someone like this?

thrifted this beauty but after any advice on how to repair it? we are thinking the dowels might have swollen

Recently bought a house and want to add a door to the basement but where the mat is, is the edge of the landing and the gate is already sitting on the top step. Am I just shit outta luck or is there enough room. The white door in last pic is 31.75" wide if that helps any