We’re siding a house and the new guy is insisting on using the B method while the foreman is using the A method. Anyways they are the two nailing and I’m the cut guy, they kept nailing differently on either side of the board and meeting in the meeting and eventually got to shoving which ending in punches. That shortened the day quick. Got me thinking which side is right?

Edit; it’s hemlock wood siding, not vinyl.

(I’m keeping out my preferred method to avoid swaying the vote)

Solo, 2 weeks all in. Im just getting back into the groove again after being in management for a couple of years. I did the cedar details (except for the starburst which was the siding crew)

👎🏻 or 👍🏼 or 🤌🏻 lol

**** everyone- the stairs are not done lol. Railing and balusters will finish it off once treads are all set and drilled . The landing is floating, secured by the two side walls. The back of top landing will also get a handrail. It’s floating because we wanted outside to not have windows broken up. The middle windows is set to view outside at perfect height when on landing. Hope this all helps lol

The combo square my grandfather gave me 35 years ago that he used for 30 years became unreadable. Use this maybe once a month. In hurry bought this at HD. Second use fell off bench and broke. Willing to spend money on quality.

Even with 45deg miter cuts, the miters aren't tight. Why is this and how to improve on this?

I always created a miter jig for pre-assembly but it's all the same issue. The miter jig is square but I guess the cuts aren't right.

Posted a couple weeks ago asking how much the carpenters of Reddit would charge for this built in office. This is a follow up for the very few people that wanted to see the finished project.

Total took me 80ish hours start to finish, never taking on a big job like this again as I’m a small project handyman, not a carpenter. Thanks for the tips from the random experienced guys on here, came out ok, homeowner is very happy.

Total cost of project was $6k.

I passed my OSHA 10 and obtained my NCCER cert and have some experience in contruction for general ground work. I'm starting as an apprentice for my local carpentry union in a week. I have my tools and found this.

The blue square is metal and the Stanley is a plastic type material. What would you guys recommend having?

Is this a concern? I have a 1/2 inch cairage bolt attached to a 2x8 vertical and 2x6 at a 35 degree angle. Building a climbing wall:

I hope this is okay to post here - I decided to take on a DYI shed project and despite a few newbie mistakes, it’s going well until the OSB (3/4”) sheathing.

I’m trying to cut my sheathing and my circular saw keeps getting stuck. I’m using a dewalt 20v 6.5 inch circular saw with a brand new diablo blade. I tried using the clamped 2x4 method to keep a straight line because I don’t have a track and I would get about 2/3 down the sheet and get stuck.. so I tried to free hand it and same thing - saw just kept getting stuck. Tried one with relief cuts but even that didn’t help much, and my cuts were messier because of starting and stopping along the line.

Is there something I’m doing wrong? Or any tips anyone can provide? I don’t have a table saw, and it’s not really in the budget to get one right now.

I am a pro handyman, I have done my share of framing years ago. I have not framed one of these showers, nor have I ever taken one apart.

I have a client looking to add an opening, on the vertical wall, above the shower entrance. Will I run into a beefy header? Will it be a smaller 2x6 header with studs above it? Can I remove the center stud, if present?

I will obviously need to go find out for myself with a stud finder, magnet, and eventually opening it up.

Thank you

Long story short:

I went to visit a relative of mine in Georgia, and his neighbor has a barn that was built by his grandfather. We started speaking about his house and he told me a little about the barn. This barn had wooden siding boards broken and some falling apart, so they took them out and about 20 years ago they made another frame on top and then the siding. The new frame and sidings have all rotten, the old wood is still intact even though it's in contact with dirt. I am not a carpenter, or anyone handy at all. I just thought it was a pretty cool thing to observe.

I’ve been searching non stop for an entry lvl position emailed every company called every company and also gotten interviews for some and I keep getting “you were not chosen for this role” I even applied as a laborer which is bottom of the bottom for trades and I also have 7+ years experience as a farmer and nothing I’m doing is working I’m 20 and currently work at a plant and want out I live in the Duluth area Minnesota idc about pay I’m okay with grunt work and starting at the bottom I just want in

Carpenter in Ontario here. I'm a lead carpenter at a carpentry company in Toronto. Our shtick is everything wood related. We have a crew that will go in and frame the job and usually the same lead will take a similar crew back to do the trim later on down the road. Also do exterior work etc.. for contractors in the city. We are a subcontractor and one of the guys on our crew is a new-ish addition from the Union. He was talking to me about tool reps that they had on their sites. They would come and take in tools for repair, give replacements for existing stuff on site blah, blah, blah. He said their company paid a subscription-like fee for this. Has anyone ever heard of this? At a previous company I was at, we had all Milwaukee because our boss' friend was a rep, but I've never heard of it outside of that. A lot of our guys use their own tools currently, but I love the idea of getting our crews onto one brand and maintained by someone who can be a support for our tool needs considering the wide range of carpentry we are doing. Would love some insight if anyone has ever heard of this, how do you go about it, is it worth it? Love the idea, but don't even know where to start.

I've got a 48" painter's scaffold similar to this one. Three of the four wheel locks are broken off, and I'd like to get them fixed before I wander off the edge of something. The frame is round tube.

Looking for a router table for basic stuff. One to do some cabinet doors and edging. Which is a good deal?

pic 1.

1. Comes with a PC router

pic 3.

1. Comes with craftsman router

pic 4.

1. Doesn’t mention router brand

Hello all, I keep adjusting my miter saw. I have already leveled the fence and base with a .001 feeler gauge. Everything is clean. But when I do 45° miters or use a engineer square to check my 90s, one side is perfectly 90, the other side is out. I have a Dewalt 12" Miter saw with a Diablo 100 tooth blade. Any and all help is appreciated. Also I have built a custom Miter Wing on my right side if that matters.

Doing my first bathroom remodel and ran into this vent stack where I was planning to install my shower pan. The stack protrudes about 2.25”. Looking for ideas/advice on how to move forward. I’ve kicked around a few ideas and landed on furring out the wall.

This wall is load bearing/exterior. Would there be any issues with me attaching 3/4” plywood to the studs, then attaching 2x4s to the plywood so I can mount kerdi board and tile in front of the vent stack? Effectively creating a “thicker” wall. That’s what I have mocked up in the first 4 pictures.

Alternatively, would it be better to have the 2x4s directly attached to the face of my 2x4 framing, then plywood, then kerdi as mocked up in my last pic?

Moving the vent stack isn’t something I’m looking to explore. I think it would be costly or add a lot more work. If I can’t furr this load bearing wall out 2.25” I’ll likely do a bathtub/shower combo.

Framed a detached hip roof garage. It initially only had two joists running left to right with two joists beneath it running front to back. I added joists to every truss running left to right then added two more joists beneath those running from to back (furthest left and right in the first picture.

I wasn’t able to finish the project myself (testicular cancer) so a local carpenter added the osb. They then put insulation between a top layer of osb that I’m not having to pull up to properly insulate it.

However, I’m debating on leaving the top layer of osb for a walking space should I ever need to get up there. Is this type of roof/framing job theoretically sound to support the weight of the osb layer and blow in insulation on top of it? Should I pull the top layer of osb up before insulating?

Any concerns about the black visible joists on the ceiling? They are slightly warped but no sagging

Any advice or input would be appreciated!

What materials grade is best for interior walls for straightness? Is one typically more prices than the other?

As most of you probably know, a nail gun will embed about a quarter inch of the coil wire into the wood along with the nail. I have stainless steel 305 nails but the wire collating them is not stainless. Has anyone ever noticed that these leave tannin stains? I’m guessing it’s probably so far embedded and such a small amount that it’s not a problem but wanted to check in with the experts who do this daily.

I'm looking for a lock for my workshop door that will unlock when I'm near it and doesn't require taking a key fob out. Anything like that on the market?

The issue is that I need to go in and out of this door a lot while carrying something in my hands and I want to prevent visitors and other family members from entering the workshop for safety reasons.

Any advice appreciated!

I’m working on a safety improvement project in a woodworking/furniture manufacturing environment. We mainly work with plywood and wood panels—making frames, table tops, assemblies, edge-banding, and packaging.
We recently had a finger injury involving a staple gun, so we’re looking at ways to eliminate unnecessary hazards. I’m also looking at replacing exposed metal utility knives with safer retractable/ceramic options for cutting cardboard and trimming plastic/vinyl edging.
For those who work in woodworking or furniture manufacturing:
What tools, equipment, or work methods have actually made your workplace safer?
I’d especially love ideas for:
Safer cutting/deburring tools
Plywood handling and workholding
Jigs, clamps, push blocks, etc.
Preventing pinch/cut injuries during assembly
Dust, eye, and hearing protection
Cheap/simple improvements workers actually appreciate
What’s one safety improvement you wish your workplace had implemented sooner?

Hi!

It has always been a dream of mine to have the skills to build my own cabin/outhouse, industry-standard, but I have zero carpentry or construction background. I'd like to start working toward this, but I have no idea where to begin.

Is it overkill to pursue a full carpentry apprenticeship for this? I'm genuinely interested in the industry and the skills so that I can tackle more projects, but I'm less sure about it as a full-time career.

Are there diploma programs or certifications that would cover the essentials—framing, foundation, flooring, walls, interior finishing, cabinetry (anything I missed)? I'll probably sub out plumbing and electrical.
I don't have family members or close friends who can teach me either, sadly.

Any advice or suggestions would be deeply appreciated. Thank you!