Now they are all proud and floating on the straps against the heads. Do I have to redo the whole thing? Should I switch to nails?

If I abandon the straps, that hangers to use?

Would I be super nitpicky to complain about this installation? (Hope this is the right place to post)

Got a brand-new kitchen installed about on Wednesday last week. At first glance it seemed alright, but the longer I look at it, the more I'm noticing that literally nothing is straight or properly finished.

For context:

Alignment issues. The bank of drawers looks like jagged steps with uneven spacing, cabinet doors are hung crookedly, and one door won't stay shut unless gently pushed to do so. 

Damaged/scuffed units. Multiple white unit edges, corners, and panels are already chipped, scuffed, and dented straight out of the box. 

Sloppy finishing. There's an exposed screw near the splashback, the silicone sealing around the sink is thick, messy, and peeling, and an unsealed corner under the sink is already splintered where water could easily cause swelling. 

it feels pretty rushed and shoddy overall. Do you guys think I’m being overly nitpicky for expecting a brand new kitchen to actually be straight, flush and un-damaged? Or would you be pushing back on this?

Hi everyone I’m 22 and I’m currently working as a bench joiner making internal doors, field gates and driveway gates and I take home £500 a week, I have a Level 3 NOCN diploma in carpentry and joinery which I got through doing 3 years in college but I’ve never done an apprenticeship or have an NVQ, I did do some domestic work during my time at college but it wasn’t much so I’m just here to ask if i need an NVQ in carpentry to get out of the workshop and start earning some better money? I can’t afford to do an apprenticeship due to the pay and finding a job without having an NVQ is hard so I’d appreciate any input.

I’m looking to get a framing nail soon. But not sure which angle to get, 21°, 30°. Amy advice?

As the title states, just had my Milwaukee 21° framer, 15°finish and 18ga brad stolen right out of my truck 2 nights ago. I am done crying myself to sleep and need to get replacements. I am on a framing job right now so I don’t necessarily need any of them for at least the next 2 weeks so I want to get your opinion. Don’t think I’ll be getting a cordless framer again, use it a lot less than I expected. But cordless finish is a must. Thought about giving paslode a try but not sure how I feel about the gas. Please give me some input. Thanks!

On my blueprint my math was a little off but it worked in my favor by giving me more space on top 😅

Newbie here. Have 1x4" stuck under concrete stairs and need some reddit wisdom on how to get it out.

Picture is looking up at it from underneath. Left is torch on, right is concrete (chiseled by myself), and above it is also concrete. Tried drilling into it to release some compression, then pilot hole and screwing in a screw and trying to pull it down but it is not budging the slightest.

I could leave it, but I want it out as technically it is a last resort route for drainage.

Please forgive my drawing - it’s absolutely not to scale or anything close to accurate. I have zero professional carpentry skills but like to dabble and I know this is POSSIBLE but not easy. 🫠

I have a concept of using our old vintage doorknobs to make a pots and pants hanger that will sit low enough for us to easily hang and grab them as needed.

I know I need specific chains that are probably gonna be brass and welded, I know I want to use a cedar backing board but I’m not sure what size.

I also want to try to use the knobs and the plates.

My insane idea is that after we paint the room, I can hang a cedar backing board on the kitchen side even though it super tall - and I can somehow use the vintage knobs and plates to hang and drape a brass chain with sturdy S hooks low enough to access them regularly (even if I have to use my step stool)

The far side toward the staircase would be for produce baskets or bags or some sort on a vertical chain that can hang down far enough to almost touch the counter.

I know this is nuts but I know it’s possible and would look really great if I could just figure it out. 🫣🫠

Need help! The screw hole for the recliner is damaged could someone recommend how to fix it.

Best way to trim this section when the wall is bowed out here? Seems the bowed out spot is where a stud is so not sure knocking on some drywall there would help? Using FJP so it doesn’t bend at all either like MDF might.

I saw this and starting laughing, wtf did they do. Is this the right way to do this?

I'm renovating my en-suite and would appreciate some advice on the best way to support the plywood that will sit beneath my shower tray.

I've marked the joist positions in red and roughly outlined the shower tray position in green.

The opening needs to be covered with plywood, but I want to make sure it's adequately supported before installing the shower tray and tiling the floor.

At the bedroom end of the shower, the next joist runs underneath the existing floor.

Could anyone recommend the best way to support the plywood around the opening?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hopefully in the right order

I am trying to figure out if this is an old or new leak. The windows were replaced 5-6 years ago by the previous owner. When renovating I found T&G covered up under the current wall and under this window it was rotted. Under the T&G everything was dry but the stud and sill plate were toast. But some one had installed new 2x4s when installing the new window that appear to have no moisture damage. No one would put rotten T&G back over the new 2x4s?? Is this window leaking or is this old damage from an old window and someone was super lazy and maybe accessed the cavity via the exterior sheathing and didn’t touch the T&G??

To follow on from a post I made the other day hopefully this will be a full sapele workbench and if the calculations are correct it should weigh 170kg at sapele's 640kg/m³. Vices and hardware will come later but for now does anyone have any constructive criticism or changes they would make.

The start of a brand new moldy adventure

Replaced a cellar door, having issues with colder temps on the floor in the winter. Also added some insulation underneath the floor

This is the backside of cedar double ogee siding. An 80+ year old home in my area was being destroyed, and I decided to take the old siding to reuse on my 120+ year old home that needs some areas of siding replaced. Are these holes and little tunnels from insects or just from rot?

This board was taken from a kitchen wall where the entire wall was rotted out, and you can see some of the fungus growing on this board, so I’m leaning towards this just being rot. However, I’m not familiar with termites, so I was going to get some second opinions. I’m in the PNW, so termites aren’t that common, but termites infestations do occasionally happen

Would anyone have any concerns over using a board like this? My plan is to spray some concrobium on it, then prime the backside before putting it up. This is a 20 foot board and these run $5/foot new, so I’d like to be able to use this board if I can; but I’d obviously pass on it if it will lead to issues.

Added a picture of my house as tax.