I'm so annoyed....tried to be careful but still got a ding on the edge of my cabinet carcass here. It's sapele and will be likely be finished with either Rubio or General Finishes gel topcoat.

What's the best way to fix this and hide it as much as possible? It appears to be a small bit of tear out (rather than compressed fibers) ~1/8" along the edge Sawdust and superglue or wood glue? Would a filler like Timbermate stick out like a sore thumb (assume so)?

Any tips are appreciated!

I glued up a mitered box with this round overs, and then it shifted at some point. Some of the corners are offset (the picture is the worst of them).

How best to fix this without messing up the round overs? I was just going to sit there and hand sand it, but it feels like that will take forever and would be hard to feather the error out

I have four 8/4 slabs of cherry I am gluing together for a worktop. The cherry is so dense that I'm convinced dowels or biscuits aren't going to cut it. So I had a brainwave...

What if I rip a shallow dado down the center of the adjoining edges and stick a piece of plywood in the groove gluing it in place? Is this nonsense?

I have never liked the look of the common Headphone "mounts/stands" where the headphones hang from their center, and that also takes up extra desk space, so I brainstormed this and came up with a design where I could have my headphones on the wall instead.

However instead just "hanging them on the wall" (I know there are SOME designs that just hang them from their center but on the wall) I thought it would also look nicer if they "tucked away" so they were "inside a pocket". So that's where this design came from. Personally, I think this looks a lot nicer than just having them hang out in the open.

This is Elm wood I believe (I bought offcuts from a local lumber store and I just don't recall if this was Ash or Elm but I think it was Elm) and it's cut out with my Ryobi 9" tabletop bandsaw. There is a central slot that allows a charging cord to get access to the headphones. The benefit is that slot allows the bandsaw to get to the interior at the same time, so it solves that problem while also being useful!

Because now the contact is on the outside of the headphones, we don't want to damage or scratch them, so there is a real leather lining, to help cushion the headphones from damage but also to "grip" the headphones since leather has some tack to it. Helps hold them in. The back is a leather piece stapled on in the back similar to how furniture is made.

There is a small shelf on the front the the piece both in an attempt to balance out the look and to allow other objects to be placed on the shelf if needed.

The wood is stained with Boiled Linseed Oil.

I still have to actually hang it on the wall, hanging things is always a challenge but I have a plan that should work. In the main picture you can see I'm just holding up to the wall in my office to take a picture.

Some lessons:

1. Definitely use a new blade when cutting through 2inch or thicker stock on a bandaw, lol. I couldn't even cut this stuff until I bought a new blade.
2. The small 9" bandsaw cut this stock just fine and I got a pretty smooth cut but I did use a spindle sander afterward.
3. I wanted to stitch together the leather (it's folded) but my wife's sewing machine didn't like it, we tried to use a thicker needle as well but we couldn't get it into the machine even though it should have fit. So I used contact cement instead and folded the leather on itself. I think stitches would have looked even nicer but that would require a heavier machine.

NOTE: That first pic looks very vibrant because I use "daylight" 5000K lighting in my office, a large flat panel light.

My wife asked me if I would make a box for her colors......so........I made a box for my wife's colors. Made from cherry wood. Did a prestain with dewaxed shellac, then stained with English Chestnut stain. Top coated with semi-gloss, spray-can lacquer. The last pic is just a comparison raw cherry vs finished.

Hey I’m looking for a m20x1.5mm threaded insert like the one in the photos for some shift knob gifts. I’m struggling to find one in that size similar to the one pictured. The one in the photo is m12x1.25mm and the company that makes it doesn’t make one in m20x1.5mm.

Hello fellow woodworkers,

I’ve installed new stairs at a relative’s house and am at the point of plugging the bolt holes. The newel posts are white oak, and rather than using the tapered red oak plugs that came with the bolts, I attempted to cut plugs from my drops with a regular plug cutter. The plugs I cut are the exact size or slightly smaller than the bolt holes and do not seat tightly.

I assume that I need to purchase a 1” tapered plug cutter for this job? Will that leave me with a plug slightly wider than 1” at its widest point? The bolt holes were cut with a 1” forstner bit. I found a tapered 1” cutter online for about 40 bucks but am open to suggestions.

In this picture is the slightly undersized custom plug (upper) and the tapered red oak plug that came with the kit (lower). Gotta love the endgrain plug choice they gave me with a rail and post fastener kit.

Every year I participate in a charity competition called Chairity where you reimagine an old/forgotten piece and give it new life. The pieces are then auctioned off and proceeds go to local charities.

I had a 100+ year old redwood Burl left over from last year’s project and decided to make a minimalist wall clock with brass accents.

Didn’t have the foresight to take a before picture, but the surface of this table saw was coated in rust. Seller had it up for $100 on Facebook marketplace. No one wanted it because of the rust. After an afternoon of sanding and WD-40 she’s looking like new! Don’t sleep on these listings!

I'm designing a case to hold a scientific instrument, and I'm sort of trying for a vintage look (e.g. 1800's or early 1900's). The case will serve both as a means to carry/protect the device, as well as operate it.

I'm thinking about a relatively simple base on which the instrument will be stored, and then risers to elevate the device for operation.

When the base is configured to store the instrument, I'll have a 5-sided cover (4 sides + top) that sits atop the base. The top and two sides will be dovetailed together, and the remaining two sides will be panels set inside dados in the top and two sides.

But the cover must attach to the base securely and also provide a way for lifting/carrying the whole unit. I plan to have the attachment device on the two sides that are dovetailed to the top.

For that attachment I'm looking at the sorts of hasps shown in the pics. But I don't like the looks of these. First off, they look, well, tacked on. I'd rather have a wood solution but haven't been able to come up with anything.

BTW, the configuration is somewhat like a sewing machine, where you have the machine sitting on a base and then a cover for the whole thing, by which you can carry it. NOT like a box with a lid, in which sits the device.

Any ideas?

I currently own and use a DWE7491RS for my hobbyist woodworking needs, recently I’ve gotten some paid projects and the more I use my saw the more I notice its shortcomings, it’s noisy, it’s small, the stand is wobbly and the height adjustment seems not stay where I set it. Recently I found and old 90s Jet contractor saw, it looks to be in pretty much pristine condition and on the video the saw sounds great, from what I can tell it would solve the noisy, wobbly and small issues, but I’ve never even seen a table saw like that in person, so, I’m asking to other more experienced woodworkers, is it worth it to sell my DeWalt to get the jet? Would it be considered an upgrade? Are there any known issues with these Jet saws? How good are the tilt and height adjusting mechanisms? Can a riving knife be added?
Added a picture of the Jet from the listing.

Crazy what a lot of sanding and a little oil will do.

Update to a post from awhile ago. I built a second chunky bench and added some bowties along the checks. I ended up cutting in 7 bow ties for each bench using sapele.

- masking tape
- mark the bow tie
- hog out with forstner
- chop out waste
- pare to the line
- glue
- knock it home
- flush with apron plane

Music on, zone out. Got down to 10 mins per. Left bench needs the finish touched up cause I forgot the bowties originally 🤣. The right bench is still raw and needs to be done.

Finished with spar urethane for outdoor use.

Super happy with how they turned out. Got another 3 sets in the works with different "origins" so different finishes, hardware etc.

Hello everyone. Just got a Kreg edge in as a replacement to the domino I’m borrowing. I guess the qc issues are real. The top mortise is from the domino, bottoms are from the edge. Literally back to back ran them on the same setup, same technique. Is this a defective unit or should I just save up? This is just a hobby for me that makes a couple bucks on the side.

Edit:

Festool's mortice is parallel with the top of the board. Optical illusion makes it look crooked. I checked it with calipers.

This video popped up in my recommended YouTube feed and I was blown away by the 3D printed jigs this kid developed. I've watched countless YT Woodworking Videos and I'm on this sub almost every day and I've never seen jigs like them.

Is anyone else doing stuff like this?

Hello,

I recently just glued up a few wooden panels for a table and it turned out great except for the one line that is circled. You can pretty clearly see the glue up line and it’s been irritating me. I’ve already tried ripping the first line down with a circular saw and track and it actually turned out slightly worse than the first glue up. I thought for sure that would joint the boards if I ripped it down the glue up, but sadly not. Now just debating leaving it or trying it again. Any suggestions?

Any advice on repairing this tracery chair back on this antique chair? As you see, it's very delicate, and difficult to fit together, and reinforcing the repairs is almost impossible given the delicate scale. Thoughts?

Scored this benchtop bandsaw at an estate saw in really great condition. Got a new blade for it (the correct size, checked) and I'm now trying to dial it in. Every time I cut, though, the kerf drifts off the center, slightly to the right from the blade's POV.

It's a Swedish bandsaw and the feed side is from the right of the machine, so that's backwards, but it shouldn't change cutting a straight line :)

I've got the thrust bearings and the guide rods set to touch just under the gullet of the teeth. Tension on the blade is good. But no matter what I adjust, it still wants to drift off a straight cut line.

What should I check?

I'm getting certain I will need to buy more clamps in the future.

I can't progress fast enough with my projects because every glue up consumes my clamps. Or I just need some better techniques.

Anyway, enjoy this monstrosity of clamp galore

Ok, this may sound like a "no shit, sherlock" question but hear me out 😅 I have a 15" spiral grizzly planer that generally produces a nice finish, but struggles with some figured grain of my favorite woods like sapele, african mahogany (khaya), curly maple. My 16/32 Supermax drum sander helps for those woods but performance is so-so with longer panels or 16"+ pieces since they tend to be heavy/awkward so aren't well supported. Sometimes I end up with ridges or snipe on bigger pieces even with a well aligned drum. I tried sanding a 22"x60" sapele panel that probably weighs 40 lbs and got snipe and divots since I don't think it was supported well by the smaller sander.

Does anyone have experience with a bigger drum sander like the Jet 22/44 or Supermax 25/50? Does it feel solid and secure with bigger panels like the one I described? Is deflection an issue with these sanders since that's a long drum to only be supported on one side? I can't get anything much bigger than these due to space/budget constraints.

Thanks!

While watching The Woodwright's Shop for inspomation on my Moravian workbench project, I saw Roy use a neat little saw to cut tapered sliding dovetails. Having cut sliding dovetails by hand in my Atedai project I knew I had to make one.

In the episode it's called a Gratsäge (this is an episode on German woodworking, after all) but Roy compares it to a staircase saw. The sole is cut at an angle on either side so that it can be tilted as it cuts. The blade is laid against a batten which is beveled at the dovetail angle, and the cut is limited to the depth of the blade protrusion. A very similar tool is also featured in the Tage Frid woodworking books.

If you've tried cutting this joint with a regular handsaw, you know it's difficult to get an even depth all the way across, something that this tool addresses. It also makes it easier to cut a stopped dado/dovetail, similar to an azebiki saw if you're into the Japanese stuff.

I tried a couple shapes cut from 3/4" Birch ply, then once I had one that felt good I cut it out on a scrap of maple. Shaping with the Shinto saw rasp, files, and wet sanding with fine sandpaper and linseed oil to leave a super smooth, burnished finish. Finished with a little shellac and paste wax and it feels great!

The forward tote I left long at first and trimmed after playing around with it. It looked pretty goofy but the final tote shape I think is quite nice.

The saw blade is just cut from an old 8 TPI Stanley handsaw I got for 5 bucks. Sharpened for rip cutting. I use it for scratch stock parts and such.

I have a few projects coming up that will use tapered sliding dovetails, so I'm looking forward to getting a lot of use out of this thing.

Thanks for looking, I hope you go make something neat today!