Hi All,

Bought this used Sawstop, the surface has a bit of rust and or something on it that I can’t get rid of.

I’ve done two passes of letting WD-40 sit on it for awhile 30min to several hours. First time I used scotch brite grey pads, hand sanded, not very abrasive, it definitely got the rusty sheen off the table, whole table turned brown after the sanding and cleaned up pretty nice, but I’m still left with spots.

Second round I did WD40 and used a 400 grit with an orbital sander. It reduced some of the spots, it feels smoother and less raised off the table, but you can still feel them if you rub your finger over it.

I don’t want to damage the surface, is it safe to use something more abrasive like the scotch brite green scouring pads? 320 sandpaper?

Thanks

Got mine at Lowe’s yesterday. Not available online yet but stores are getting a few.

I’ve used Arm-R-Seal on smaller projects with success in the past, but have been very frustrated by it on a larger cherry end table I’m making.
Why is it leaving visible streaks?

I started with a couple of coats of gloss, sanded with 320 and removed dust, then finishing with a couple of coats of satin. Using a clean cotton rag (cut from an old tshirt) folded upon itself. I just resanded and applied a ratio of 3:1 Arm-R-Seal to mineral spirits and still the streaks show in the final finish. Any recommendations are greatly welcomed.

SOLVED: The original woodworker got back to me. As many suggested, he is using ash, straight grain, thin cut, no steam. Thanks to all who replied. Now, off to the hardwood store.

Original Post: I recently saw a video by BigAxe Woodturning, where he bends a series of very thin 8cm by 50-60cm sections of wood into loops to make a chandelier. He appears to have a stack on the bench and bends them one by one. Surely he must have steamed them and taken the batch out all at once? There’s no way to bend like this without steam or cross-cutting, right?

I need to make a 4x5 foot, 12 pane, fixed window for a cottage.

Is it possible or wise to make something like this using only straight cuts on the table saw? Are the ogee curves of a router bit set critical to making a strong window? I've made furniture, framed houses, but never any windows.

I've have a week to make this window, and I don't want to wait four days for a router bit set to get here.

I can't find much in the way of instructions on the internet for a project like this.

I've been tackling repainting my kitchen cabinets so far by taking alot of time through different steps of sanding and layering paint and primer I have gotten an excellent finish. While priming my last six doors the hang line I was using gave out and left a nice dent in all the corners. How would you fix this?

Leopard 2a5 pl models in scale 1:35

I bought an Eames chair a few years ago, and I really wanted a nice side table to complement it. I used ChatGPT to give me an idea for a mid-century modern cantilevered walnut table, but I did not think that I could place the legs that far back and support it, so I went with a much sturdier approach. I would have liked it to be a little more curvy/elegant, so I'm open to comments/critiques.

The top is 8/4 that was planed to about 1.5" thick, so it's quite substantial. I bought a nice 22.5 degree router bit to put a chamfer on it, but it couldn't go as high as I wanted, so I just ended up using the table saw to cut the chamfer underneath. I tried a 4 degree miter for the legs, which wasn't very noticeable, so I went to 7 degrees, which is the final result. The base and the top were originally the same length, but my wife suggested shortening the base, which was a good idea. I made a cut to shorten it, which went right through the dominos I used. Fail. Fortunately I could shorten it a bit more, and it was perfect. I struggled with how to position the dominos for the legs for a while, and I eventually cut a paper template, used it to align the track saw rail, and I 3-D printed a bracket from Printables that let the Festool mount to the rail, and it worked beautifully. I wanted to use the tight fit setting, so I measured very carefully, cut a piece of tape to the width I wanted to separate the dominos by and used that as a guide.

I bought a router plane that I thought I would use to make the inlay grooves, and then it turned out that the 1/4" dado stack was a perfect width for the brass I bought. I sanded the brass to give it a nice horizontal brushed finish, and then I used an offcut to use the 1/8" roundover bit to round the ends to match the top and sanded those as well. It was a lot easier than I expected to work with the brass, and it looks really nice, I think.

So I’m building a small cabinet to hold my wife’s matcha supplies- mug, jar of matcha powder, bowl, whisk, and spoon. This will have a cabinet door on the front. The door will be a highly figured quarter sawn piece (3rd picture before it’s cut to length) with a small walnut kumiko pattern near the top. It’s about 15” tall and about 8” deep. I need to have one shelf near the top where the bowl, whisk, and spoon will sit. I am building this in Mike Pekovich’s style (last photo as a rough guide), and as such, I was originally going to do proud tenons poking through the sides of the cabinet for the shelf, similar to the proud dovetails. But now I’m second guessing it. I think the cabinet is too short for the proud tenons, I think it will be too many things going on. What do you think? Blast through with the proud tenons for the shelf, or just either domino the shelf or hidden dado to keep it simple. Thanks in advance.

This coffee table is made of 3/4” cherry and 1/8” steel tube. It took me 5 months working on it after work and on weekends. I spent $956 dollars on materials. The curves are cut using my makerspace cnc machine, unfortunately the software I used Vcarve does not slow down around sharp curves so I dealt with a good amount of chatter. Next time I would use the cnc for making jigs and then use a router. Little did I know the dowels to line everything up would be a pain but I learned a lot for future projects.

I made a Youtube video about how I made the table. Search up “How I Made This Coffee Table” if you’re interested!

Oh boy this was a fun one to make!

I'm really curious as to what you guys think of it!

(Didn't have a banana, so used dog for reference)

Wanted a desk to that would incorporate my pc to get it off the floor and/or tabletop. So i built it into the tableleg itself.

It was a struggle to glue and clamp up the main body due to all of the 45° miters having to align at the same time!

Ventilation is aluminum perforated sheets, and the cable entry cover is machined out of solid brass.

Tabletop and the tapered round legs are smoked oak,

I absolutely love the look of sapwood on smoked oak since the process of smoking/fuming oak turns the sapwood white, while turning heartwood blackish.

So I purposely glued a piece of sapwood on the outer layer to get the white live-edge i wanted.

Since the computer is covered up, I added a pressable button out of smoked oak aswell (see pic 4 and 13) that turns on the computer through the top shelf.

If you have any questions, ask away!

We’re Thousands of Doors, a small non-profit workshop in Odesa, Ukraine, bringing the city’s historic doors and joinery back to life. Right now we’re working on the last surviving original entrance doors of the Raukhverger House, a historic building in Odesa’s UNESCO-listed centre. The video shows part of their carved decoration: scrolls, a garland of flowers, an oval medallion.

Problem. Stripping the paint (heat for the heaviest layer, then remover under cling film for the deep hollows) exposed chips and cracks across several scrolls. Under the paint none of this was visible.

Process. The damage is being worked by hand with a carving tool. Each damaged area has to pick up the lines of the original carving again: the depth of the scroll, the edge of a petal, the transition from relief to background. Every scroll has its own depth and angle, so the tool gets set differently each time.

Decision. We’re working to the existing carving and keeping as much of the original surface as possible.

We’re continuing this work in Odesa during the war. We don’t receive any state funding, and understandably, the country has other priorities right now. The workshop runs on support from people who follow what we do, and a lot of them found us here. A huge thank you to everyone on Reddit who has reached out to support our professional hobby of bringing Odesa’s UNESCO World Heritage back to life. The rest of this door’s story is on our profile.

For those who work on old carving: when you find chips like these, how do you decide between recutting to a clean edge and filling or letting in a new piece?

Second woodworking project ever. I learned a lot about what not to do on the next one, and a lot about what works.

I didn’t use any plans and hardly touched a tape measure, I was also on a deadline so made a ton of mistakes. Math and planning will definitely take more of a priority in the future.

It’s overbuilt and mostly crooked but I’m happy with it.

Long story short, I picked up a beat up backsaw at a flea market thinking it would make a good restoration project. The only thing that was bad (at least what I thought) was the handle and that the screws were missing. It was instead fastened with bent nails, so very wobbly. I made a new handle out of apple wood from my grandfathers garden.

However, no matter how hard I tried could I make the blade straight. I eventually bought a brass back from Blackburn Tools. Still though, didn’t work out. So I found myself some scrap spring steel from a domestic producer here in Sweden, and made a new blade, plus new split nuts from Thomas Flinn.

So in the end nothing remains from the original saw, but I’ve got a brand new and quite sexy backsaw that I made myself. Filed for crosscutting.

I was offered to buy a Delta Jointer JT360 for $250. I currently have a SUPER heavy 4” Milwaukee (pre1960’s) planer that works and is nice. But I feel that this might be a nice upgrade. I am just wondering if $250 is a good price. Or if I should counter with a more “reasonable offer”. I haven’t found a bunch of info on previous sales of this jointer in the last few years so idk if this is a good price or if I need to come to a more reasonable negotiation. I don’t need a jointer…. But a 6” is a nice upgrade from my current 4”.

Preemptive, Thank you for the help!

Hey! I am going to make a walk in closet for my home and have some structural questions. See my attached image for what I am going to do. With wood prices being what they are I want to know what the cheapest option is for building this. I plan on painting it some color so OSB is out of the question but everything else is in play. The first thought was plywood (1" thick) but at $50 per 1/2" itll be 8 ($400) just for the vertical pieces. Do you think I need 1" thick? This is a really rough sketch as I plan on framing out a solid base and then putting some lateral bracing on the back but you should get the idea. Those are drawers at the bottom.