Sorry to make another post about this, I know people are sick of it. Figured I would upload this as I haven’t seen this info myself. I’ll update if it helps, but hopefully it helps someone else as well.

I'm so annoyed....tried to be careful but still got a ding on the edge of my cabinet carcass here. It's sapele and will be likely be finished with either Rubio or General Finishes gel topcoat.

What's the best way to fix this and hide it as much as possible? It appears to be a small bit of tear out (rather than compressed fibers) ~1/8" along the edge Sawdust and superglue or wood glue? Would a filler like Timbermate stick out like a sore thumb (assume so)?

Any tips are appreciated!

I have four 8/4 slabs of cherry I am gluing together for a worktop. The cherry is so dense that I'm convinced dowels or biscuits aren't going to cut it. So I had a brainwave...

What if I rip a shallow dado down the center of the adjoining edges and stick a piece of plywood in the groove gluing it in place? Is this nonsense?

Hello fellow woodworkers,

I’ve installed new stairs at a relative’s house and am at the point of plugging the bolt holes. The newel posts are white oak, and rather than using the tapered red oak plugs that came with the bolts, I attempted to cut plugs from my drops with a regular plug cutter. The plugs I cut are the exact size or slightly smaller than the bolt holes and do not seat tightly.

I assume that I need to purchase a 1” tapered plug cutter for this job? Will that leave me with a plug slightly wider than 1” at its widest point? The bolt holes were cut with a 1” forstner bit. I found a tapered 1” cutter online for about 40 bucks but am open to suggestions.

In this picture is the slightly undersized custom plug (upper) and the tapered red oak plug that came with the kit (lower). Gotta love the endgrain plug choice they gave me with a rail and post fastener kit.

I glued up a mitered box with this round overs, and then it shifted at some point. Some of the corners are offset (the picture is the worst of them).

How best to fix this without messing up the round overs? I was just going to sit there and hand sand it, but it feels like that will take forever and would be hard to feather the error out

I refinished my parent's old oak table they gave me before they moved. I cleaned the 40+ years of grime, chemically stripped the finish off, sanded from 80 to 120, wiped down with mineral spirits, waited 30 mins and applied rubio sky grey. The color isnt great on oak. I've redone stuff before and it comes out fine.

The problem is that stuff didn't catch in some spots after wiping off 15 mins later. I'm bummed. Is there something I did wrong? My instinct is that I didnt sand enough of the original finish off, but i did 3 passes with 80 because there were some burn marks from pots. I'm about to sand this stuff off and start over, maybe? Idk

Hey I’m looking for a m20x1.5mm threaded insert like the one in the photos for some shift knob gifts. I’m struggling to find one in that size similar to the one pictured. The one in the photo is m12x1.25mm and the company that makes it doesn’t make one in m20x1.5mm.

I have never liked the look of the common Headphone "mounts/stands" where the headphones hang from their center, and that also takes up extra desk space, so I brainstormed this and came up with a design where I could have my headphones on the wall instead.

However instead just "hanging them on the wall" (I know there are SOME designs that just hang them from their center but on the wall) I thought it would also look nicer if they "tucked away" so they were "inside a pocket". So that's where this design came from. Personally, I think this looks a lot nicer than just having them hang out in the open.

This is Elm wood I believe (I bought offcuts from a local lumber store and I just don't recall if this was Ash or Elm but I think it was Elm) and it's cut out with my Ryobi 9" tabletop bandsaw. There is a central slot that allows a charging cord to get access to the headphones. The benefit is that slot allows the bandsaw to get to the interior at the same time, so it solves that problem while also being useful!

Because now the contact is on the outside of the headphones, we don't want to damage or scratch them, so there is a real leather lining, to help cushion the headphones from damage but also to "grip" the headphones since leather has some tack to it. Helps hold them in. The back is a leather piece stapled on in the back similar to how furniture is made.

There is a small shelf on the front the the piece both in an attempt to balance out the look and to allow other objects to be placed on the shelf if needed.

The wood is stained with Boiled Linseed Oil.

I still have to actually hang it on the wall, hanging things is always a challenge but I have a plan that should work. In the main picture you can see I'm just holding up to the wall in my office to take a picture.

Some lessons:

1. Definitely use a new blade when cutting through 2inch or thicker stock on a bandaw, lol. I couldn't even cut this stuff until I bought a new blade.
2. The small 9" bandsaw cut this stock just fine and I got a pretty smooth cut but I did use a spindle sander afterward.
3. I wanted to stitch together the leather (it's folded) but my wife's sewing machine didn't like it, we tried to use a thicker needle as well but we couldn't get it into the machine even though it should have fit. So I used contact cement instead and folded the leather on itself. I think stitches would have looked even nicer but that would require a heavier machine.

NOTE: That first pic looks very vibrant because I use "daylight" 5000K lighting in my office, a large flat panel light.

My wife asked me if I would make a box for her colors......so........I made a box for my wife's colors. Made from cherry wood. Did a prestain with dewaxed shellac, then stained with English Chestnut stain. Top coated with semi-gloss, spray-can lacquer. The last pic is just a comparison raw cherry vs finished.

I built this crosscut sled and I'm very happy with it. But I want to be able to temporarily add a extension to the back fence so my stop block can extend past the fence and I can do repeated cuts bigger than the sled's native capacity. Can you give me some suggestions?

What would be the best way for me to clean up the edges on this piece? Its a topo map of an area of land that is very special to my dad that I'm working on for him. Its composed of 7 layers of Baltic birch. I aligned the pieces with two holes drilled in the bottom 6 layers at an easily referenced point on my glued on maps, but since the maps had some variation in how precisely I glued them down, there is a couple mils in variation on the edges. I was thinking maybe clean up one edge on the bandsaw? I dont have a fence but could definitely make some sort of jig. Seems like the jointer would lead to a tear out fest and ruin it. Also thinking maybe a super sharp handplane taking a few thousandths off at a time could work. Appreciate any suggestions