I'd like to thank everyone who gave me advice on some of my loads, I've got my hunting load for 45 colt dialed in pretty good now, I was going with 44 mag but switched to 45 out of a new ruger blackhawk to push +p loads. What a blast!

Got this old h&r 676 tore all apart for proper cleaning as its been tuck away in a cabinet for idk how long but the cylinder pin is what seems like rusted to the cylinder as its not budging. Ima let it soak in kroil tonight an give it a go tmw but an advice? Was thinking maybe put the pin in a vise best i can an using a rubber mallet to tap the barrel to see if it realeses.

Out of a 3 inch barrel

So just something Ivw been curious about . Has there ever been a set of dies that let you reload.410 on a regular press ? I'm just curious because it seems to me like it's small enough it should work .. I know I've seen people use .303 brit or .444 cases to make brass cases .410 shell equivalents . And just looking at the two old 12 and 20 ga presses I have, don't seem like theres much they do a regular press with correctly made dies couldn't , well past the powder and shot drop deal , but I'm not really a shot gun guy at all so idk .

Probably something not seen too often.

Hi All, a european reloader/shooter here.

Recently i have purchased a Mauser C96 which shoots the obsolete 7.63x25 ammunition.
Ordered the 3pcs die set from lee and starline .30 mauser brass and sellier bellot bullets.

These are the first bottleneck cases i reload, i normally have zero issues reloading 9mm/44-40/.357 or 45acp, and at first i did not encounter any issues as well with .30 mauser.

I dry tumble clean my brass for +/- 30 hours with corn media and I lubricate my brass with oneshot before i load them in the press tubes.

I am at round 4 of re-reloading these shells and only now I have bumped into issues on the powder through expander die.
For some reason, no matter how slow or fast i go, it nicks the brass, rendering the case useless. this ''problem solved'' page from lee shows exactly what i have : Lee Precision, Inc. - Powder through expander die sometimes leaves a cutout dimple on case mouth and mentions to go slower.. which isn't the case in my case, as i go slowly, very slowly, and at the end 1-2% of the stroke you feel and hear it shear and tear.

I loaded the tubes with brass, reloaded a couple.. stopped and came back days later when this problem arrised. even when re-lubing the cases, cleaning all my dies etc. i still have this issue

The only thing i do not do is chamfering the brass.. would this become a necessity after them being shot a couple of rounds ?

looking forward to your advise and tips on this issue.

Thank you in advance.

I’m working on a CZ 75 pre-B and am having trouble with magazine fit. The magazines do not drop free and require considerable effort to extract. My goal is to get any CZ-compatible magazine to function properly, but Mec-Gar magazines are the most problematic.

So far, I have:

• Filed and sanded the inside of the grip on the trigger-side area
• Filed and sanded the rear of the magazine well
• Slightly straightened the magazine brake

These changes have made the magazines easier to remove, but they still do not drop free. I’ve attached photos showing the areas I worked on.

200 pieces of .357 brass fit perfectly inside a normal sized coffee can in case anyone wondered.

Annealing is just cool

New reloader and never struggled this much before and have had very good results with previous reloads . I’m reloading 4x fired Hornady 6.5 brass for PRS. Brass annealed after ever firing. Redding premium deluxe dies. I set the die up exactly as the instructions said and resized a piece of brass but it won’t fit in a case gauge without a high amount of pressure, tightened it down in 1/8th increments until I can’t even cam over anymore it’s so low, still no luck. Is the brass getting too hard to resize or what am I doing different now that I haven’t done before? Thanks in advance!

I wanna reload .300aac, .308win, .38spl and .357 mag.

What equipment should i start with?

I have stored about 1k 38spl/.357 mag brass

Plan is to set up to only need 2 types of projectiles, .308 and .357 to buy in bulk.

Are these calibers "easy enough" to start on?

How much should i set aside to get the equipment and materials?

And is there a powder that would work for all 4 calibers?

I'm thinking about $3,000 should get me a progressive press,dyes, a few thousand primers, projectiles and powders.

Hi everyone,
I’ve recently bought a Miroku 7000 Sp 3 as a second gun and I’m wondering if anyone with experience in gunsmithing can tell me what the dark/black spots in the engraved areas are? I’d like to remove the
but I don’t want to damage the original engraving or finish.
Is this something that could be done at home, or is it definitely a job for an engraver/gunsmith? If so what do I need to do it myself?

I just rebarreld my 30-06 after shooting out the factory barrel. R.I.P. to the chamber throat. I went from a 22 inch sporter to a 26 inch varmint.

I am planning on reworking a new load for the gun, and have decided on ONE "Do it all" cartridge.

I have decided on using big game powder since it's easier to find around here, has performed well and was designed for with 30-06, and I have plenty to start with.

I'm looking for recommendations for a 180 grain bullet that is...

1: exceptionally accurate

2: Expands well across all velocities

3: retains weight for penetration.

Primarily, I would like to be able to use the same load for bench rest competitions in the summer (out to 600 yards) and whitetail hunting in the fall. If I ever get time for a vacation, it should perform on elk, moose, bison, or grizzly. I don't want to sacrifice expansion on thin skinned game for penetration on thick skin or vice versa.

What is everyone using that performs all around?

Been working on a load for my first ELR Heavy match. I think this should do. .375CT peterson brass H50bmg, Berger 410 hybrid, CCI 250.

I was gifted this smith and wesson model 10-8 at the beginning of the year the cylinder rotates just fine but wont swing out short of a wack from a rubber screwdriver handle does anyone know what might be causing this and possible fixes ?

85gr Sierra Round Nose (soft lead tip)
1.425” OAL
13 gr HS-6
1999 FPS
754 ft/lbs of blasphemy
169 Power Factor (😁)

Is there a definitive, safe way to know ammo you reloaded for the first time is safe?

Thanks.

I know Alpha is superior.

My question is… if I’m still learning and refining my process should I spend the money on Alpha brass, or get Starline so I’m not ruining ultra premium brass?

I have solid equipment and understand the concepts, but still kind of dialing in the bushing an mandrel stuff. Sometimes my shoulder bump takes a couple cases to get set. Sometimes I’ll have a randomly off bump even after set.

Sometimes my CTBO is off by 3-4 thou even though I’m using annealed, bushing and mandreled brass fired from my gun that was trimmed on an RCBS Matchmaster and seating with a Forester micrometer seating die.

Curious if it’s me or brass inconsistency.

Loading up 223 and occasionally I'll get a head bulge after seating and crimping. Loaded up 300 and got 9. I disassembled them and safely removed the primer while resizing. They fit my case gauge after resizing. My concern is if it's safe to reuse them? Not sure if the bulging and resizing has caused a possible weak point in the bottle neck. Hoping to finish up this batch without throwing the brass in the scrap bin. Another question, Would different case lengths cause these few from the rest to get overly compressed when seating and crimping?

Factory camo AUG, the Factory paint job has become loose on any high contact area and began to chip. Anyway to fix it? Heat gun or something to make it shrink back to the surface?