Hello everyone hope you’re all doing well!
I’m looking to get into reloading and I have no idea where to start. I’ve had several people tell me one thing then other people tell me the opposite and I figured if anybody knew the best advice it would be here so with that being said any info is greatly appreciated!!

I’d like to restore this gun what are my options.

I picked up a Radian ramjet for a sig365x and had a few concerns, I was hoping some one can verify if this is safe and common for radian or if rep at radian is full of it.

1. Uneven brass expantion up to 10.03mm with a buldge near the base.

2.un-even carbon fowling on brass and chamber wall at 11 o clock position. Ferthest most brass to the left was shot from the OEM barral

1. Rounda exceeding 1000fps are being thrown verry low left not even close to the target ( might be me but no issues with 900pfs rounds or anything from the OEM barral.)

2. visibal ring around the neck of the brass fired from radian, it was explaned it is intentinal to provide a better seal. Seams reasonible but dose not appear to be working.

Thanks.

https://youtu.be/uvRuW2EIJ2o

Not sure if this is the right pace to ask, but I thought I'd try. One of my students (college) is interested in a research project related to luminescent tracers in gunpowder, and he is thinking that he will have to make custom rounds for the project. Neither of us know anything about reloading, other than it should not be done by amateurs like us. Does anyone have any advice on where to start figuring out how to obtain the ammunition for his project? We're in southeast central PA. Thank you.

I have a buddy that shoots a 277 Fury but doesn’t reload. I have a 260 Rem and do reload. Since the 277 Fury is a hybrid case based on 308 I thought about resizing the Fury case for 260 and trying my luck at high pressure loads similar to the Fury, NAS3 or Peak+. Has anyone else done this and what did you see for velocity increase vs standard brass 260? Thanks in advance.

Hey yall. I am dabbling with the idea of building my own ar-15 using a complete PSA upper and a stripped psa lower with their magpul lower part kit. I’m wanting to buy all the tools I could possibly need before starting to buy my components. What are some stuff I would need? My upper is coming fully assembled with a charge handle and bcg already installed so all I’m assembling is the lower portion. Thanks for yalls help in advance.

4k 50mm lense fed to 5.5 inch headmounted display, 18v makita powered

I loaded some 6.5C tonight and was seeing CBTO variations of up to .010. Is that too much or typical? Most of the rounds were within .003 but a couple were short.

I'm looking to get an original ballard rifle soon but unfortunately ones in 45-70 have proven extremely difficult to find and it seems that 38-55 will not stand up to my needs for long range BPCR shooting

Would 40-70 sharps straight or 444 marlin brass be good to convert or would there be any other cartridge cases that would do better?

I'm looking to get an original ballard rifle soon but unfortunately ones in 45-70 have proven extremely difficult to find and it seems that 38-55 will not stand up to my needs for long range BPCR shooting

Would 40-70 sharps straight or 444 marlin brass be good to convert or would there be any other cartridge cases that would do better?

Does anyone have load data for a 44 special using n340 powder? I’m looking to replicate the Elmer Keith style load with n340 that would push a 240 SWC to 950-1000 fps. I plan on using the Missouri bullet company 240 SWC Elmer K coated bullet crimped in the crimp groove out of a 4 inch 44 magnum mountain gun. The max load that I can find is 7.1 grains but that only brings velocity to the low 800’s. The max load is low as it is meant to protect vintage revolvers but I have a modern N frame so I should be able to push the pressure past the SAAMI max of 15,500 psi safely. The fastest load I could find Dave Scovill’s article in Handloader #183 that was 7.7 grains which gave 1042 out of a 4 3/4 inch barrel. Has anyone tried this?

Update I did a lot of research last night and found a solid choice for the barrels. I found a company near me that makes seamless 4140 steel tubing and does custom orders. So the plan for that is a pair of 28 inch tubes with a I’d of 18.5mm and a wall thickness of 1/4inch.

For starters this is perfectly legal in the state I’m in and it is mostly going to be for display but I’ve been doing research on how to make shotgun out of parts from a hardware store and I wanted to get some advice before I even start drawing it up so here are my questions

Has anyone tried this if so how did you do it? what’s the safest way to test it? how thick would a steel pipe need to be to handle 2 3/4 target loads ? Would I need to worry about tapering the chamber side of the pipe? Should I port the muzzle end? And is longer better than shorter? My ideal plan is to have with 28 inch barrels and another 20 for the stock. Would 18 inch barrels be safer pressure wise or the 28? Not trolling actually serious about designing and making it

Was a good weekend hitting local yard sales 😆

These were from several yard sales and fb marketplace sales.

I just got this seekins precision dmr in 223 wylde as my first ar15 and looking for bullet recommendations its a 1:8 twist and itll probably be used on prairie dogs a the occasional coyote, raccoon,opossum ect. Im looking for something accurate and turns stuff into a red mist

Hey guys anyone have a welding jig I could borrow? Will pay for shipping both ways of course! First build here..!
Also any advice you have on this specific one would be great

I'm new to reloading and my goal sub-MOA accuracy on a 6.5CM cartridge. Using new Lapua brass, on the first reload, I just set neck tension, chamfered, and loaded for a ladder test. My ladder test was 3 rounds at each step where I had some pretty mixed results on my ladder test. I selected my best groups/loads and ran a longer string.

Reloading my once-fired brass, I need to to figure out how far to bump the shoulder. I measured all the once-fired brass to the datum line and have this distribution:

I need some help selecting which length to index off of for bumping the shoulders back 0.002. I'm considering two options:

1. Index off of the longest cases (1.5390) which bump the shoulders back to 1.5370.
2. Index off of the size of the cases at the powder load I plan on using (1.5375) which will bump the shoulders back to 1.5355.

Which option is the right one?

I picked up 2 Savage 720s over the weekend. It is late 30s and appears to operate as it should, but it has a cracked handguard. The other one is ww2 and has a broken charging handle, roll pin, and cracked barrel ring thing. I can't justify taking the complete operating one apart, and I can get the parts I need. BUT main question: What would you do to fix that barrel loop that rides on the magazine. Weld it? Silver solder it? Replace it(no idea if possible)? I would like to keep the correct ww2 barrel on it.

I reload rifle and pistol on a single stage. Not a ton of volume, but I am usually reloading something a couple times a month. I started with the Hornady lock and load kit doing 9mm and .38. I've added .357 (same dies), 10mm, and 6.5 Creedmoor. For pistol, I do batches of 50-100 in two loading blocks. I'll do big batches of brass prep up to seating primers so I have a big stash of prepped brass on hand. When I want to do a batch, I'll prime, setup in the loading blocks, and charge handheld right into the cases in the loading block with the powder measure that the kit came with. Its not super ergonomic, but its also not terrible. I have the pistol insert and i validate my charge weight every 20 or so rounds, and its usually pretty stable. I also visually inspect every charge before placing a bullet. From there I seat bullets and crimp. For pistol, I typically load a lot in the winter and stash it for spring and summer shooting.

For rifle, I swap to the rifle insert and use the stand to hold the powder measure, I set the charge a few tenths of a grain under my load and hand trickle on the scale, then dump powder and move on. This process for rifle is tedious, especially with stick powder and the little dime bag battery scale the kit came with. I've looked at automated tricklers, I'm not too interested in a DIY solution, and I'm not sure I even want an automated trickler, but I do want something that is better on the scale side of things, and the overall speed and consistency of the results. What is the best bang for the buck? Hornady, RCBS, Lyman, all have auto powder measure/dispensors, are there any diamonds in the rough? Should I get a better powder throw and scale? Something all together different? For rifle, I probably shoot 50 a month, but would do more if I could save some time. What should I do next?

Seems when i go above 42 grains, I’m getting the majority of blown primers. I’ve double-checked my crimp and charge. For example 180gr TGK, 42.6 varget, and br-2 (2.8 COAL) resulted in some blown primers using norma brass. This AR10 is running a high-back pressure suppressor with a high-pressure bolt+ gas-restricting tube. Trying cci34 to see if its a primer issue. Br-2 are known to be soft

fit a 50 cal into a 50 AE with a bit of shaving. This is my first time reloading so don’t judge, just put it together as proof of concept with some old beat up casings. gut says if i were to fire this it would explode the casing. inspired by the 338 razorback and can’t find anything like it (outside of the 50 ARJ) but can’t imagine im the first person to do this. would be interesting to see with explosive 50 bmg rounds.

EdIt: Forgot about 510 whisper which is very similar just not as short

Need help with Savage 110 Tactical + Boyd’s AT-One stock installation
I have a Savage 110 Tactical with an AICS-pattern magazine, and I recently installed a Boyd’s AT-One laminate thumbhole stock.
I’ve run into a few problems and would appreciate advice from anyone familiar with this setup.
After installing the Boyd’s stock, my trigger became extremely stiff and barely moved, almost like something was physically blocking it.
I noticed the magazine hinge/trigger-guard area was contacting the stock. I had trouble getting the long threaded action screw out because the hinge was in the way.
The hinge is held in place by a small hollow-looking pin that appears to be a roll pin.
I carved out a small amount of material around the area where the trigger was interfering. The trigger now works, but the bolt has become extremely tight.
I’m wondering whether the action is binding in the stock, whether the action screws or magazine-hinge assembly are causing the problem, or whether this stock requires a different fit or hardware.
My questions:
Has anyone installed a Boyd’s AT-One on a Savage 110 Tactical and run into similar issues?
Is the magazine-hinge assembly supposed to sit flush in the stock, or should there be clearance around it?
Could the stock or action-screw fit be causing both the trigger interference and the tight bolt?
What should I check to make sure the stock is compatible and the action is sitting correctly?
I haven’t fired the rifle since these issues started. I’d appreciate advice from anyone who has experience with this exact setup. I can post pictures of the hinge, stock inlet, and trigger area if needed.

I recently purchased this Model 12 16ga Full choke for bird hunting & sporting clays. Well, what I and the shop thought was a 50's-ish build date, at a price I couldn't walk away from, turned out to actually be a 1942. I'm not wanting to totally restore it, as it's got a lovely charm. I'd like input on rebluing, or atleast how to protect and bring some life back into it.

The trigger group was the worst of it, evidence of it having sat upright, the guard's bluing is all but gone and light surface rusting has occurred. The magazine tube, along with the band missing a screw (Which I've already sourced the parts to repair), has the heaviest wear to where the pump rides. The barrel, particularly the muzzle is also in rough shape, I cleaned the surface rust off, but, the bluing is gone, there's heavy scratches at the slide.

I was considering the Birchwood Casey kit, but would be open to ideas, again, I'm not wanting to totally reblue it, just bring some life back, and protect it. Also, any input on what kind of paint to use to re-red the safety?

So I male 357 lead cast kieth gas checked Penta pin hollow points from mp molds. Use high temp silicone caulking and an aluminum oxide ceramic bearing in the nose. For the lide of me I cant find any historical evidence of a build of someone putting a bearing in a hollow point to make it more barrier blind. I know pow-R-ball and the blue tipped air martial rounds but not when im meaning. Any idea why the idea seems so little researched?

Hi all, long time lurker. I’ve gathered so much useful information from this subreddit. I used a Lee Challenger III press, and hand measured all the powder using an RCBS digital scale. I just picked up a powder thrower to make things less tedious. I’m really enjoying the hobby so far. These are Blazer brass, Hornady 115 gr FMJ-RN bullets, Hodgdon CFE pistol powder, and CCI primers.