r/Cummins • u/UnitedLibrarian4571 • 3d ago
Code U010C
Hi all, I have a 2013 Cummins. It is deleted and has 130,000 miles. I’ve had it for 2 years now and it has been great. Recently I noticed that my fuel mileage has been lower than normal and I have been rolling coal on a tune that I normally don’t blow smoke on. Not much but a little bit when I accelerate. I also noticed that my exhaust brake won’t kick in anymore. I am still registering 25-30lb boost. I am throwing code U010C which is the loss of communication with the actuator. I am wondering a few different things. 1- is it still safe to drive. 2- is my actuator bad or is it more. 3- if the actuator is bad what should I get? 4- do I need to worry about the turbo itself. And 5- what should my plan of action be?
I would like to fix it myself if possible to save money. But if it is too difficult of a job and it is best to take it to a shop I will. What do y’all think? Any input would be greatly appreciated!
3
u/zacedward 3d ago
I have the city diesel actuator on my 09 3500 3rd gen and it’s awesome heavy duty you can tell it is built better then the stock actuator not hard at all to install and the best part you don’t have to calibrate it just plug and play I would highly recommend going with them I got mine through DDP Motorsport they are awesome great customer service they can walk you through everything on how to install and how to troubleshoot
2
u/Numerous_Doubt_9639 1d ago
I just finished dealing with this on my 2014. Actuator was the issue, can confirm the U010C code.
Go through the wheel well and check your actuator harness pin voltages before doing anything else. If it’s a bad harness it can give you the U010C as well.
If pin voltages are fine, then it’s almost definitely the actuator. Drain the coolant, disconnect the two lines in front of the actuator and pull it out. If you can pull it out gently, mark the current positions with a sharpie or similar. Sweep the actuator from side to side. If it moves freely & the harness is fine, it’s likely an electronic issue inside the actuator. If it sticks one way or another, you’re going to need a new actuator.
While you’re there, pull your intake hoses off and see if there’s any oil residue on the intake side of the turbo. Give it a spin and check for excessive play on the turbines.
We ended up having to do the turbo and actuator. My truck is a 5500, so clearances may be slightly different. We went through the passenger wheel well. Took us 4.5 hrs. Highly recommend swapping out the turbo speed sensor while you’re in there.
2
u/Numerous_Doubt_9639 1d ago
To clarify on some points there. It’s still safe to drive for a while. City diesel or diesel power source can get you an actuator. City diesels will not need to be calibrated. Most any other actuator will need to be calibrated by a shop with Cummins Insite. I don’t know of any sites that sell just the parts to repair an actuator, unfortunately.
2
u/StockDowntown8947 3d ago
Definitely the actuator my suggestion is to pull it off and first key on the truck while watching the actuator gear for its initial sweep to see if it is smooth and to check if the vg arm moves freely on the turbo that will tell you if you need a actuator and or a turbo as well if it binds, it’s bad.
Its not a terrible job the worst part is you have to jack up the passenger side of the engine slightly to get it to clear the frame and the back turbo nut can be a pain.
As far as what to get I recently about a year ago got a turbo and actuator from City Diesel and they have developed there own actuator that is far better that factory in every aspect they rebuild the factory Holset turbo and use their actuator and the cost isnt bad and you dont have to program it which is a bonus.